Class 




Book ."f 7 ^ 






J 



JOURNAL 

OF AS 

EXPLORING TOUR 

BEYOND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, 

UNDER THE DIRECTION OF THE 

A. B. C, F. M. 

CONTAINING 

A DESCRIPTION OF THE GEOGRAPHY, GEOLOGY, CLIMATE, 

PRODUCTIONS OF THE COUNTRY, AND THE NUMBERS, 

MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES *. 

WITH A 

MAP OF OREGON TERRITORY. 



BY REV. SAMUEL PARKER, A. M. 



FIFTH EDITION 



AUBURN: 

J • C. DERBY & CO.; 

.I«W- YORK : MARK n. NEWMAN & CO..-GENEVA : G. H. DERBT 8c CO. 

CINCINNATI : DERBY, BRADLEY & CO. 

1846. 



















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1 








_£- " 



3 1 







JOURNAL 



OF A 5 

EXPLORING TOUR 

BEYOND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, 

UNDER THE DIRECTION OF THE 

A. B. C. F. M. 

CONTAINING 

A DESCRIPTION OF THE GEOGRAPHY, GEOLOGY, CLIMATE, 

PRODUCTIONS OF THE COUNTRY, AND THE NUMBERS, 

MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES I 

WITH A. 

MAP OF OREGON TERRITORY. 



BY REV. SAMUEL PARKER, A. M. 



FIFTH EDITION. 



AUBURN 



J. C. DERBY & CO.; 
YORK : MARK n. NEWMAN & CO,— GENEVA : G. H. DERBT & CO. 
CINCINNATI : DERBY, BRADLEY &, CO. 

1846. 



Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1833, by 
Samuel Parker, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the 
Northern District of New York. 



* ^1^ 



HEKRT OLIPHANT, PRINTER, AUBURN. 



I 



z 



Publisher's Note. — It may be well to state that Mr. Parker's Tour 
through the Oregon Territory, is the only work published by any per- 
son who has been over the country generally, in all seasons of the year, 
for the express purpose of learning the physical condition of the coun- 
try, and the natural and moral state of the Indian inhabitants. 



RECOMMENDATIONS. 

FROM BENJ. SILLIMAN, LL. D., PROFESSOR OF CHEMISTRY, GEOLOGY, &C., 
YALE COLLEGE. 

I have perused with much satisfaction and instruction, the Rev. 
Samuel Parker's Tour beyond the Rocky Mountains, and have given 
copies of it to scientific friends in Europe, on account of the valuable 
geological facts which it contains. B. SILLIMAN. 

Yale College, Oct. 31st, 1343. 



EXTRACT FROM CHANCELLOR KENT*S COURSE OF READING, FURNISHED AT 
THE REQUEST OF THE NEW YORK MERCANTILE LIBRARY ASSOCIATION. 

" This is one of the most authentic and interesting accounts we have 
of the country of Oregon, or waters of the Columbia, and of the charac- 
ter of the Indian tribes of that savage country. The author brings to 
the subject all the knowledge, industry, candor, and piety becoming 
his mission and pretensions." 

FROM H. HUMPHREY, D. D. PRESIDENT OF AMHERST COLLEGE. 

I have read Mr. Parker's Exploring Tour beyond the Rocky Moun- 
tains, with uncommon interest. It embodies a great mass of facts and 
many valuable reflections, which cannot fail of making it highly instruc- 
tive as well as entertaining to every class of readers. I am glad to 
learn that a second edition has been so soon called for. It is not a book 
of lofty pretensions, but of unadorned verity and high intrinsic merit. 
The friends of the missionary cause, and of the aboriginal tribes beyond 
the mountains, who have not yet seen this volume, have a rich rever- 
sion before them. H. HUMPHREY. 



IV RECOMMENDATIONS. 

FROM REV. EDWARD HITCHCOCK, LL. D., PROFESSOR OF CHE5IISTRY AND 
NATURAL HISTORY, AMHERST COLLEGE. 

I am happy to concur in the above views respecting the Exploring 
Tour of Mr. Parker. EDWARD HITCHCOCK. 



FROM NOAH WEBSTER, LL. D. 

New Haven, Nov. 12th, 1839. 
Dear Sir, — I have read the account of your journey over the Rocky 
Mountains to the Pacific, with much satisfaction. It contains much 
valuable information respecting a part of our continent, which is im- 
perfectly explored. I hope the publication of the book will amply re- 
ward your labors. N. WEBSTER. 



" This is a work of extraordinary merit, and furnishes rich food alike 
to the man of science and the unlearned. It is one of the most deeply 
interesting volumes that has ever issued from the American press ; in- 
asmuch as it presents, in a plain and unaffected style, stores of know- 
ledge concerning a portion of our country which heretofore has been 
but partially explored. This is a volume which commends itself to the 
careful perusal of men of every class, and, so marvellous are its truths, 
that it needs but the merit of being a work of fiction' to gain for it uni- 
versal circulation." — Missionary Herald, Cincinnati. 



" Mr. Parker's observations on the geology and geography of the 
country through which he passed, are alone richly worth twice the cost 
of his volume. To the friends of the unfortunate Red Man his work is 
a noble weapon ; to the advocate of Foreign Missions an unanswerable 
evidence of their necessity and value. It is illustrated by a new Map 
from actual observation of the territoiy of the United States west of the 
limits of Missouri. — New Yorker, May 19, 1838. 



Acknowledgments are due to numerous editors of periodicals and 
papers who have given the work a favorable notice. 



P REFACE 



In presenting to the public the Journal of a Tour beyond the 
Rocky Mountains, the only apology necessary to offer, is the hope 
of promoting a more extensive and particular knowledge, than had 
hitherto been furnished, of the condition of that important section 
of our country. The author's mode of travelling furnished many 
opportunities for observation, being conducted with leisure, through 
one of the most interesting portions of the wide territories of the west, 
It is believed that no defects exist in the work irreconcilable with a 
strict adherence to facts, and this scrupulous regard to truth is the 
principal merit claimed for the volume. The most of what is narra- 
ted came under the author's personal observation, and whatever is 
stated which did not, was obtained from gentlemen whose reputation 
for honesty and candor, as well as capability of judging intelligently, 
is well established. This source of information was made available 
by collecting and comparing the statements of different individuals, 
retaining what corresponded with his own observation, or was well 
supported by evidence. The belief is cherished, that the following 
work contains a greater amount of statistical information in regard 
to the country, and important facts, than is to be found in any pro- 
duction furnished by the press. Having gone over a greater ex- 
tent of territory than any traveler who had preceded, and with the 
express object of exploring the condition of the aboriginal popula- 
tion, this position cannot be considered as assumed. Messrs. Lewis 
and Clarke passed the Rocky Mountains under a governmental ap- 
pointment to explore the country, more than thirty years since, and 
their published narrative carries with it evidence of candor and in- 



VI PREFACE. 

telligence, and contains much valuable information ; yet their op- 
portunities for observation were somewhat limited. They passed 
over the great chain of mountains, from the head waters of the 
Missouri, between 45° and 46° of north latitude, and came upon 
the head waters of the Cooscoots-kee, and followed that river to 
its junction with the Lewis or Snake river, and then proceeded by 
water to the Pacific ocean at the mouth of the Columbia river; 
wintered upon the south side of the bay, and early the following 
spring returned to the mountains by the same route which they 
pursued on their outward journey. All other persons who have 
published any history of their travels beyond the mountains, were 
engaged in the fur trade, and many of their observations upon 
different sections of the country are just, but their productions are 
deficient in statistical information, and are mostly confined to per- 
sonal adventures, anecdotes of battles with Blackfeet or Crow In- 
dians, starvation and hair-breadth escapes. Justice to the public 
requires fidelity in the historian and traveler. It is not their busi- 
ness to originate facts, but to record them. The license given to 
poets, or writers of romance, cannot be tolerated here, and no flights 
of a lively imagination, or graphic powers in relating passing oc- 
currences, can atone for impressions which are not in accordance 
with truth. 

While it was a leading object to become acquainted with the sit- 
uation of the remote Indian tribes, and their disposition in regard to 
teachers of Christianity, yet a careful attention was given to the 
geography of the country, with its productions ; the climate and 
seasons, animals, lakes, rivers, and smaller fountains ; forests and 
prairies, mountains and vallies, its mineral and geological structure 
and all the various aspects of its physical condition. The country 
here described is sui generis ; every thing is formed on a large 
scale. Its lofty and perpetual snow-topped mountains rising 20,000 
feet or more above the ocean, the trees of the forest, the widely ex- 
tended prairies, plants of enormous growth, and the results of vol- 
canic agency which are met with in almost every direction, render 



PREFACE. Vll 

the whole an ever increasing scene of interest to the traveler ; and 
if any statements appear large, it is because the facts are so in 
themselves. 

It has been an object in writing this volume, to condense as much 
as possible the amount of information, instead of unnecessarily ex- 
tending it, and the hope is indulged, that while these facts are pe - 
rused, the desire may be awakened, if it do not already exist, to 
benefit the original, the rightful owners, and (with the exception of 
a few thousand fur traders scattered in every direction over the 
territory,) the sole occupants of this wide field of uncultivated 
nature. 

The map which accompanies the work, has been prepared with 
much labor and care ; and though some minute parts are omitted, it 
will be found far more accurate than any which has before been 
published. In addition to my own surveys, I have availed myself 
of those of gentlemen connected with the Hudson Bay Company, in 
parts which I did not visit, and am especially indebted to Vancou- 
ver and other explorers, for much that I have delineated of the 
North-West coast of the Pacific ocean and the Islands. 



PREFACE TO THE FIFTH EDITION. 



The interest the public have taken in this work, evinced by the 
many highly commendatory reviews and notices, which have ap- 
peared in numerous periodicals, religious, scientific, and political, 
both in this country and in Europe, together with the sale of the 
former editions, has influenced the author to publish a fifth edi- 
tion. Many persons, whose judgment, extensive knowledge, and 
piety, entitle them to be held in high estimation, have encouraged 
him to believe that this work has been interesting to men of science, 
useful in advancing general knowledge, and promoting the spirit of 
missions, and what is not the least to be valued, in awakening a 
sympathy for the long neglected Indians of Oregon. 

As it was an object in preparing the first edition to compress as 
great an amount of information as possible in the compass of a duo- 
decimo volume, so in this — the same object has been pursued. 
Since the publication of the first edition, the whole work has been 
attentively revised, corrected, and enlarged. It is hoped that it 
will contribute its influence, however small it may be, in aiding the 
cause of human welfare. I shall be pardoned if I assert the senti- 
ment, that the acquisition of all knowledge should be made sub - 
servient to this important use, and that the gold from any region, 
if it cannot be refined in this crucible, is of no real value, and what- 
ever will not directly or indirectly, nearly or remotely, concur in 
this great end, must at length endure the ultimate fate of thai 
" knowledge which 6hall vanish away." 

1* 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER L 

The Tour commenced by way of Buffalo, Erie and Pittsburgh ; 
passage to Cincinnati in the steam-boat Ohioan ; the steam-boat 
takes fire ; Cincinnati; Falls of the Ohio ; the Ohio River ; Ohio 
and Kentucky ; confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers ; 
Point Girardou ; beautiful appearance of fire on the prairie ; St. 
Genevieve, old custom ; Herculaneum ; gambling on board the 
steam-boats ; St. Louis ; Dr. M. Whitman ; Mr. Fontenelle 17 



CHAPTER II. 
Leave St. Louis for Liberty ; passage up the Missouri ; snags ; a 
walk on shore ; Jefferson City ; River scenery ; Steam-boat Siam; 
Sandbars; Lexington; Steam-boat disaster ; Liberty; Navahoe 
Indians ; ride to Cantonment Leavenworth ; amusing provincial- 
isms ; Caravan commence their journey ; first encampment ; 
Iowa Indians ; Blacksnake hills ; Nodaway river ; Elk ; cross 
the Neshnabotana ; Rich soil ; rapid rise of the north branch of 
Neshnabotana ; mode of living; mounds of the west; cross the 
Missouri ; Bellevue ; Missionaries 26 



CHAPTER III. 
Continuance at Council Bluffs ; interesting scenery ; Indian curios- 
ity ; information obtained about several Indian tribes ; Spasmo- 
dic Cholera; an Indian Chief killed; leave Bellevue for the 
Black Hills ; storm of rain ; heavy thunder storm ; Elkhorn 
river, the country around ; Loups Fork of the Platte ; manner 
of encamping ; Big Ax, Pawnee Chief ; Indian feasting ; fourth 
of July; Messrs. Dunbar and Allis ; thunder storm; Indian Or- 
naments; effects of drunkenness ; bite of a rattlesnake ; buffalo 
seen ; prairie horse-fly ; forks of the Platte ; want of wood ; 
swiftness of antelopes ; climate ; thousands of buffalo ; badgers ; 
prairie dog ; interesting bluffs ; old castle ; the chimney, or bea- 
con ; an alarm ; Ogallalah Indians, their lodges ; Black Hills. . . 43 



Xll CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER IV. 
Black Hills ; day of indulgence ; buffalo dance ; the desire of Indi- 
ans for instruction ; met the chiefs in council ; re-commenced our 
journey for rendezvous ; anthracite coal ; species of worm- 
wood; Red Bute; traces of grizzly bears ; geology; Rock Inde- 
pendence ; Rocky Mountains ; perpetual snow ; valley through 
the mountains ; " thunder spirits" gone ; an alarm ; waters of the 
Colorado 69 



CHAPTER V. 
Arrive at rendezvous ; trappers and hunters ; four Indian nations ; 
Flatheads and Nez Perces, no reason why so called ; surgical 
operations ; an interview with the Flathead and Nez Perce 
chiefs ; their anxiety for religious instruction ; return of Doct. 
Whitman ; Shoshones and Utaws ; mountain life 76 



CHAPTER VI. 
Part with my associate ; arrive at head waters of the Columbia; 
kindness of the Indians ; narrow defile ; geology ; JackBon's 
Hole ; wild flax; trappers go out on a hunt ; mountain prospect ; 
Trois Tetons ; danger from affrighted buffalo ; Pierre's Hole ; 
Volcanic chasm ; children on horseback ; interesting worship 
with the Indians ; burial of a child ; scarcity of food ; a timely 
supply ; Salmon river ; expected battle ; geological observa- 
tions ; scene of mourning 87 



CHAPTER VII. 
Salmon river ; mineral salt ; chimney ; forest trees, new species 
of pine ; geology ; sulphur lake ; a rare animal ; new species of 
squirrels and pheasants ; came to the Lewis branch of the Co- 
lumbia; ferryman; Basaltic formation; fine climate; arrive at 
Walla Walla 115 



CHAPTER VIII. 
Description of Walla Walla ; the kind treatment of the Indians by 
the Hudson Bay Company; leave Walla Walla for Fort Van- 
couver; loquacious orator; rapids; introduction to the Cayuse 



CONTENTS. Xlll 

Indians ; morning prospects ; long rapids ; Volcanic mountains ; 
trial of Indian generosity ; arrival at the falls of the Columbia 
river ; rousing effects of oratory ; La Dalles ; Boston trading 
company ; remarkable subsidence ; Cascades ; Chenooks are the 
Flatheads and Nez Perces; dangerous rapids; Indian burying 
places ; Pillar rock ; interesting waterfall ; sea fowl ; arrive at 
Fort Vancouver 131 



CHAPTER IX. 

Description of Fort Vancouver; departure for Fort George and 
mouth of the Columbia; mouths of the Multnomah; Wappa- 
too Island ; May Dacre ; Coffin Rock ; Cowalitz River ; Indian 
friendship ; Pacific Ocean ; Gray's bay ; Astoria 149 



CHAPTER X. 
Description of Fort George ; mouth of the Columbia ; dangerous 
bar ; mountainous coast ; varieties of timber ; good location for 
a missionary station ; continued rains ; dense forests ; excursion 
in a canoe down the bay ; view of the coast ; disasters at the 
entrance of the Columbia; ship William and Anne; ship Isa- 
bella ; Tonquin ; Japanese junk ; reflections ; water fowl ; re- 
turn to Fort Vancouver ; the regard Indians show the dead ; 
Indian kindness 156 



CHAPTER XL 
Review of journeyings; school ; journey up the Willamette ; walk 
upon the pebbly shores ; falls ; settlement on the Willamette ; 
Methodist mission ; epidemic ; voyage down the river ; hospi- 
tality of Wanaxka ; construction of his house ; Fort William 
on the Wappatoo Island ; astonishing thirst for ardent spirits ; 
return to Fort Vancouver 169 



CHAPTER XIL 

Services on the Sabbath; obstacles to the gospel; discouraging 
case ; manner of spending time ; description of Vancouver ; fur 
and farming establishment ; garden productions ; lumber ; com- 
merce ; peltries ; system of the Hudson Bay Company ; waste 



XIV CONTENTS. 



of life ; hardships of a hunter's life ; their perseverance ; Chris- 
tian principle ; worldly principle 183 



CHAPTER XIII. 
Indian population ; diseases ; mortality ; attributed to cultivation 
of the soil ; Indians destitute of medical science ; holidays ; cus- 
toms at home ; customs of the Indians ; resemblance to Jewish 
customs in punishment ; marriage contracts ; condition of the 
females ; slavery ; divisions into tribes ; one point of dissimi- 



CHArTER XIV. 
The various animals beyond the Mountains . . 199 



CHAPTER XV. 

Fish ; description of salmon ; salmon fishery ; ornithology ; den- 
drology ; shrubbery ; nutritive roots ; geography ; mountains ; 
valleys ; plains ; forests ; rivers ; soil ; seasons 214 



CHAPTER XVI. 
Character and condition of the Indians ; Indians of the plains ; 
their persons; dress; wealth; habits; physical character ; man- . 
ufactures ; their religion ; wars ; vices ; moral disposition ; su- 
perstitions ; medicine men 230 



CHAPTER XVII. 
The Indians of the Lower Country 246 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

Conversation with an intelligent Indian ; meeting with Indians ; 
early and mild seasons ; La Dalles Indians; their anxiety to re- 
ceive the gospel ; Nootka humming bird ; number and location 
of the Indians in the lower country ; Indians of the north ; the 
agitated question ; solitariness 253 



CONTENTS. XV 

CHAPTER XIX. 
Departure from the upper country ; American hunters ; geology at 
the Cascades ; Indian honesty ; escape in a dangerous gale ; the 
Falls a favorable location for a missionary station ; tender sympa- 
thy ; famished Indians ; arrival at Walla Walla ; interesting mee- 
ting of Indians ; opportunity to give them religious instruction ; 
a walk ; the nutritious quality of prairie grass 271 



CHAPTER XX. 
Journey to the Nez Perce country ; funeral of a child ; natural sce- 
nery ; worship on the Sabbath ; return to Walla Walla ; indus- 
try of the Indians ; battle ground ; practice of smoking; journey 
to Colvile 284 



CHAPTER XXI. 
Paloose Indians ; Pavilion river ;" extraordinary excavation ; lost 
on the prahie ; Indian principle ; Spokein woods and country ; 
Indian ferry ; Spokein valley ; granite ; volcanic curiosities ; fer- 
tile valley ; worship with the Spokeins ; "Mill river valley ; arri- 
val at Fort Colvile; description of the place ; leave Colvile for 
Fort Okanagan; a mountain of marble; Grand Coule, or old 
bed of the Columbia; Okanagan described; Long rapids ; ar- 
rive at Walla Walla 093 



CHAPTER XXII. 
A summary of the Indians of the Upper country ; names of the 
tribes, their locations, and numbers ; leave Walla Walla for Fort 
Vancouver ; swift passage down the river ; run the Falls ; Cas- 
cades ; daugerous eddy; arrive at Vancouver; Steamboat ex- 
cursion 313 



CHAPTER XXIII. 
Geology 305 



CHAPTER XXIV. 
General remarks ; passage in the steam-ship Beaver, down the 
river ; take passage on board the barque Columbia ; detention in 



XVI CONTENTS. 

Chenook bay ; great cave ; Codfish, the first ever taken in this 
bay . 350 



CHAPTER XXV. 
Departure for the Sandwich Islands ; arrival at the Islands ; wor- 
ship in the native church ; description of Oahu ; the Pari ; the 
valley of Manoa ; description of Honolulu ; of Waititi ; heathen 
temple ; Eva ; Waialua ; Keneohe ; mountains; Salt lake natural 
productions; animals ; government ; tea party of the royal family ; 
dinner to the officers of the Peacock and Enterprise ; decrease 
of population ; unfair negotiations ; foreign residents ; charity 
school ; seamen's chapel ; burying place of the royal family ; 
missionary success. .'....' 353 



CHAPTER XXVI. 
Departure from Oahu in ship Phoauix for the United States ; call at 
the Society Islands ; brief description of Tahiti and Eimeo ; re- 
commence our voyage ; water spout ; severe gales of wind ; 
Magellanic clouds ; Martin Vass Island ; Trindad ; arrival at 
New London 373 



PARKER'S TOUR. 



CHAPTER I. 

The Tour commenced by way of Buffalo, Erie and Pittsburgh — passage 
to Cincinnati in the steam-boat Ohioan — the steamboat takes fire — 
Cincinnati — Falls of the Ohio — the Ohio River — Ohio and Kentucky 
— confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers — Point Girardou — 
beautiful appearance of fire on the prairie — St. Genevieve, old custom 
— Herculaneum — Gambling on board the steamboats — St. Louis — 
Dr. M. Whitman — Mr. Fontenelle. 

The wide extent of country beyond the Mississippi and 
the Rocky Mountains, with its inhabitants and physical 
condition, has been a subject of interesting enquiry for the 
the last thirty years. Many things, relating to the pos- 
session of this country, its future probable importance in a 
political view, its population and trade, have occupied 
much attention. The Christian public have not been in- 
attentive to the interests, moral and religious', of those 
whom the God of providence has placed in these remote , 
regions, and who are without the blessings of civilization 
and Christianity. The American Board of Commissioners 
for Foreign Missions appointed an exploring mission to 
ascertain by personal observation, the condition of the 
country, and the character of the Indian nations and tribes, 
and the facilities for introducing the gospel and civilization 
among them. 



18 PITTSBURGH. 

That difficulties and dangers would be incident to a jour- 
ney through a country of such extent, uninhabited except 
by wandering bands of Indians, where no provisions could 
be obtained besides uncertain game, could not be doubted. 
It was not a consciousness of undaunted courage, or indif- 
ference to suffering, or the love of romance, which fixed 
my purpose ; but it was the importance of the object. 
Although it was painful to bid adieu to my family and 
friends, unapprised of the events of the future, yet com- 
mitting all to the guidance and protection of an all-wise 
Providence, the enterprise was undertaken without reluc- 
tance, on the 14th of March, 1835. Pursuing the jour- 
ney by the way of Buffalo, and Erie, I arrived at Pitts- 
burgh on the 25th. The intervening distance to St. 
Louis, through the great valley of the west, had lost much 
of its novelty, as I had previously passed over it, and long 
since had it ceased to excite that degree of interest in the 
community, with which it was regarded before the nu- 
merous descriptions of the tourist and traveler had ren- 
dered its general features familiar. Only a passing no- 
tice, therefore will be given. 

Leaving Pittsburgh, which, from its multiplied manu- 
factories, may be styled the Birmingham of America, I 
took passage in the steam-boat Ohioan, for Cincinnati, 
four hundred and fifty miles distant, by the river. The 
scenery of the Ohio, as it pursues its meandering course to 
•the Mississippi, presents a most beautiful variety of forests, 
and cultivated fields, and flourishing villages. On the 
28th, we arrived at Cincinnati. The steam-boat on that 
day was discovered to be on fire in the hold, in which a 
large quantity of combustible goods were deposited. 
This created great alarm. A very strong head wind blew 
the fire from the furnaces down the hatchway, which, af- 
ter removing some goods, had been carelessly left open. 



CINCINNATI. 19 

The captain immediately rounded the boat to the shore, 
and no sooner was it gained, than there was a general 
rush for safety. Some of the passengers threw out their 
baggage, and many leaped from the upper deck to the 
land. The fire, however, was subdued, and with consider- 
able difficulty we disengaged the boat from its grounded 
position, and from the trees among which it was en- 
tangled, and we were again under way. 

Cincinnati is a large city for a country so new, and 
from its mature appearance would hardly be thought to 
have been the growth of only half a century. Its popula- 
tion, composed of emigrants from New England, the mid- 
dle, and some of the southern states, and from various 
parts of Europe, is consequently not very homogeneous 
in its character. Its schools and institutions of litera- 
ture, promise much for the great interests of science 
and religion in this interesting section of our growing 
country. 

Here I exchanged my situation on board the Ohioan, 
for the Chien, Captain Reynolds, for St Louis, which, by 
water is six hundred and ninety miles from Cincinnati. 
On the 30th, we passed Louisville, near which are the 
falls of the Ohio, twenty-two feet in height, and passable 
for boats only in high water, about two months in the 
year. To save the expense and delay of portage around 
the falls, a canal has been constructed on the south side of 
the river, two miles in length, fifty feet wide, and forty 
feet deep. 

The water being high, we passed over the falls. It 
was a sublime scene. The water about Louisville moves 
slowly and smoothly ; but as you approach the falls, it 
increases in velocity and power. You soon find yourself 
in an irresistible current ; and you are anxious to know 
whether your pilots are well skilled in their profession. 



20 OHIO RIVER OHIO AND KENTUCKY. 

You look at them to see if they betray any fear ; you find 
that while their attention is fixed, their countenances are 
serene. Your fears give way to emotions of the sublime. 
The boat shoots forward with amazing force and velocity, 
and very soon you find yourself gliding along in the wide- 
spread calm below. 

The Ohio is a noble river, affording in its whole course 
romantic and beautiful prospects. It flows in a smooth 
and easy current, and is diversified on every side with 
rich bottom land, rolling hills, and precipitous bluffs. 
These hills and bluffs, in many places, rise abruptly from 
the shore of the river, in other places they recede some 
miles, but in every part are in view ; and so varied is the 
scenery, that there is no weariness caused by monotony. 
No where has the hand of industry been wanting to add 
interest in passing through this part of the great wes- 
tern valley. Farms, and towns, and villages, exhibit the 
advantage that has been taken of the exuberance of the 
soil. The many swift-moving, panting steam-boats, 
show that industry furnishes the means of. wide-ex- 
tended and profitable commerce. The striking dif- 
ference in the taste and habits of the people inhabit- 
ing the two sides of the river, was here very apparent. 
Upon the Ohio side, the farms and neatly painted dwel- 
lings are in the New England style, while on the Ken- 
tucky side, scattered here and there you see the large 
log houses of the planters in a grade of architecture con- 
siderably above the log cabins' of their slaves, by which 
they are surrounded, yet log houses still. These are built 
two stories high, with a wide airy hall through the centre, 
one of the lower rooms being the parlor, and the other 
serves the several purposes of a nursery, sleeping and 
eating room. Open, frank hospitality characterizes the 



CONFLUENCE OF OHIO AND MISSISSIPPI. 21 

Kentuckian, which is pleasing to a stranger. I offered a 
lady in one of these mansions some tracts, which she at 
first declined with the enquiry, " Do you think we are 
heathen ?" " No, madam ; but tracts contain much that 
is interesting to all classes of people, and after they are 
read, can be circulated among those who may not be well 
supplied with books." I saw but very few houses of 
worship, except in villages. 

On the first of April we passed out of the waters of the 
Ohio into those of the Mississippi. The Ohio spreads out 
into a narrow sea and meets the Mississippi in the same 
form. Both appear to expand themselves into their most 
majestic forms, as though each was making an effort to 
claim the superiority; and when joined they move on with 
united grandeur. We should expect at the confluence of 
these two rivers, to find a business-going village, but in- 
stead of such a place, there is only a whiskey-selling ta- 
vern, surrounded by a few miserable huts. 

To-day, a boy ten or twelve years old, playing about 
the machinery of the boat, was caught in it by the \eg y 
and had he not been immediately seized and extricated 
by two men standing by, must have been drawn wholly 
in and crushed to pieces. The bones were not broken, 
but the calf of the leg was distressingly mangled. There 
being no surgeon on board, I officiated in dressing his 
wounds. 

Passed, on the second, Point Girardou, fifty miles above 
the mouth of the Ohio. It is pleasantly situated upon a 
bluff on the west side of the Mississippi. It has a fine 
prospect of the river, and might, under the hand of indus- 
try, become a desirable place ; but the French Catholics 
are not an enterprising people, and it has the appearance 
of decay. We moved but slowly against the wind and 
current. 



22 PRAIRIES ON FIRE. 

The fires of the prairies coming over the bluffs, presented 
a fine scene this evening. These bluffs are two hundred 
feet high, and extend one or two miles along the river. 
At a considerable distance they appeared like an illumi- 
nated city, but as we approached and had a nearer view, 
the illusion was dissipated. The fires had advanced nearly 
over the bluffs, and curtained them with a moderately as- 
cending blaze, drawn up on the bluffs and let down in 
festoons in the ravines ; and the counterpart reflected from 
the smooth waters of the broad Mississippi, added much 
to the beauty and grandeur of the prospect 

We made a short stay on the third, at the landing of 
St. Genevieve. The village is situated a mile back from 
the river on the west side, and is inhabited almost entirely 
by French, who are slow to depart from the customs and 
manners established by their forefathers, who have long 
since passed away. To adopt new improvements would 
be a step next to giving up their catholic religion and 
turning infidel. It is amusing to see the manner in which 
they yoke their oxen, and to learn the reason they assign 
for so doing. The yoke is composed of a straight piece 
of wood fastened to the backside of the horns by straps of 
leather. They say, that in this way, they save the whole 
power of the animal ; but that the yoke, bowed to the 
neck, and drawn back to the shoulder, looses the power of 
the head and neck. The reasoning may satisfy them- 
selves, but would not convince the thorough New Eng- 
land farmer. 

To day Herculaneum appeared in sight, which is situa- 
ted on the west side of the river, thirty-five miles below 
St. Louis. It is almost surrounded by high precipitous 
hills, having only a narrow space for a village. There 
are several shot-towers, placed on the brink of high bluffs, 
in which considerable business is done. Large quantities 



GAMBLING. 23 

of lead, brought from the mines, are sold and carried to 
distant markets. 

In traveling upon these waters, it is painful to see how 
few books of any value there are on board the steam- 
boats. Some novels are found, but the most of them are of 
a licentious character. Thousands of those who navigate 
these rivers are going to judgment, regardless of the inter- 
ests of their souls, and most of them are destitute of the 
Bible. It gave great offence to many, that we should 
have religious worship in the ladies' cabin, as we did by 
invitation. Complaints of obtrusion were made — " Ob- 
truding religion— no place for such things." But pro- 
fanity and gambling are no obtrusion ; they are always in 
time and always in place. Christians must keep religion 
out of sight and hearing, but the wicked may be as open 
and obtrusive as they please. Gambling is practised on 
board the steam-boats upon these waters to a very great 
extent, and is a favorite amusement with those whose 
minds are not sufficiently cultivated to find satisfaction in 
reading, or intelligent conversation. The number of black- 
legs who make gambling their business is great ; they are 
adepts in their profession, and their success depends very 
much upon their skill in deception, and in decoying the 
inexperienced. 

On the evening of the fourth, we arrived at St. Louis. 
This is a flourishing business place, situated on the west 
side of the Mississippi, two hundred miles above the mouth 
of the Ohio, and twenty miles below the mouth of the 
Missouri, and its local position resembles Albany, N. Y. 
The ground ascends for about a half mile from the river, 
and then spreads out into a widely extended plain, 
partly covered with shrubbery, back of which are open 
prairies. 

In the parts of the town built by the French, the streets 



24 ST. LOUIS. 

are narrow. This may have been to accommodate their 
propensity to be sociable, by enabling them to converse 
from the windows across the streets. The French popu- 
lation, with few exceptions, are Roman Catholics, noted 
for their indolence and dissipation. Gambling is their fa- 
vorite amusement ; and they have houses devoted to this 
object, with signs up, like those of whiskey venders. As 
gambling does not increase wealth, there are but few rich, 
enterprising men among the French population. Drunk- 
enness is not common, and the temperance cause is doing 
much to remove what exists. Eastern enterprise and in- 
fluence are gaining ground since the town has been 
brought under the laws of the United States; and now a 
new impulse is given to business. This is the central 
place in the west for the fur trade, which is carried on by 
the American Fur Company to a considerable extent; 
and also much business is done in lead, which is obtained 
at Galena. A great number of steam-boats and other 
water craft, of various descriptions and destinations, are 
seen here at all seasons of the year. Adventurers of al- 
most every description of character and nation, such as 
trappers, hunters, miners, and emigrants, collect here, as a 
starting point from whence to go into the still far west, 
many of whom seek a miserable fortune among the Rocky 
Mountains. The local situation of this town is such, that 
it will undoubtedly continue to be one of the first places 
for trade in the great valley of the Mississippi. There are 
five houses of worship, four Protestant and one Roman 
Catholic. The Catholic cathedral is built of a firm light 
brown sand stone, and is a large expensive building. The 
Protestant influence is increasing, and there are here many 
active, devoted Christians, who exert a salutary influence 
upon the town and vicinity. The population is fifteen 
thousand. 



BR. WHITMAN. 25 

Doctor Marcus Whitman had already arrived here. He 
is appointed by the American Board of Commissioners for 
Foreign Missions to be my associate. He came through 
the central parts of Ohio, Indiana and Illinois, and arrived 
a few days before me. On the 7th, we had an interview 
with Mr. Fontenelle, who takes charge of the caravan sent 
out by the American Fur Company. The caravan pro- 
ceeds a short distance beyond the Rocky Mountains, for 
the purpose of carrying out goods for the Indian trade, and 
supplies for their men who are engaged in hunting and 
trapping ; and returns with the furs which they have taken 
during the year. There are about three hundred men 
constantly employed in and about the mountains, and more 
than sixty who constitute the caravan. With a much 
less number it would be unsafe to perform this journey, as 
there are hostile tribes of Indians on the wa} r , viz : the 
Arickaras, the Crows, and Blackfeet. Having obtained 
permission of the principal agents of the company, Mr. 
Fontenelle kindly offered to accommodate us with such 
advantages as may be afforded in his caravan. Finding 
it necessary to leave this place to-day for Liberty, which 
is one of the most western towns in the United States, we 
were very busily employed in making preparation for the 
journey, and in calling upon and bidding farewell to Chris- 
tian friends. A fire last night destroyed a very large liv- 
ery stable, in which we lost a horse, saddle, and bridle. 
The old cathedral, used for a store-house, was also burnt, 
together with a very large quantity of crockery which it 
contained. 



ACCIDENT. 



CHAPTER II. 

Leave St. Louis for Liberty — passage up the Missouri — snags — a walk 
on shore — Jefferson city — River scenery — Steamboat Siam — Sand 
bars — Lexington — Steamboat disaster — Liberty — Navahoe Indians 
— ride to Cantonment Leavenworth — amusing provincialisms — Cara- 
van commence their journey — first encampment — Iowa Indians — 
Blacksnake hills — Nodaway river — Elk — cross the Neshnabotana — 
Rich soil — rapid rise of the north branch of Neshnabotana — mode of 



At five o'clock, P. M. we went on board the steamboat 
St. Charles, Capt. Shellcross, and ascended the river twen- 
ty miles; anchored at the confluence of the Missouri and 
Mississippi, and lay by for the night, as it was dangerous 
to proceed, on account of the many snags and sand bars 
in the Missouri. 

On the eighth, proceeding up the Missouri by rather 
slow progress, the first stop was made at St. Charles, which 
is twenty miles above the confluence of this river with the 
Mississippi, and the same distance north-west from St. 
Louis. This is a pleasantly situated village, upon the 
north side of the river. The country around is interesting, 
and the soil of superior quality. An enterprising Christian 
population would make this one of the most desirable 
places in the west. Soon after we left the shore, a boy 
six years of age, fel 1 overboard : but, from the swiftness of 
the current, and as the boat was under full way, there was 
no opportunity to save him. He was seen floating a short 
time, but before the yawl could be loosed from its fasten- 
ing, and manned, he sunk, and was seen no more. His 
mother, a widow, and her family, were removing from 



JEFFERSON CITY. 27 

Kentucky to Franklin, Mo. The mother and the children 
lamented greatly and loudly. 

Near the middle of the day, on the ninth, we struck a 
snag or rock, so deep beneath the turbid water, that we 
could not determine what it was, and it became necessary 
to repair one of the wheels of the boat, which was much 
injured. This afforded an opportunity to go on shore. 
Several of my fellow voyagers and myself ascended one of 
those high bluffs, which frequently skirt this river. This 
was accomplished by climbing on our hands and feet up an 
elevation of several hundred feet. Here we had a delight- 
ful view of the surrounding country, with its intermingled 
prairie and woodland, its cultivated spots, and its hills and 
dales. But in attempting to return, a new difficulty inter- 
posed. I said we ascended on our hands and feet — could 
we return in the same way ? We were compelled, by de- 
scending backwards, to use much caution ; letting our- 
selves down by the grass, or sometimes a shrub or tree, 
and assisting each other, we came safely to the shore. 
We also visited a place, some distance below this, where 
Lewis and Clark encamped three days, the state of the 
river being such that they could not ascend with their 
batteaux. Here I found a location of granular quartz, suf- 
ficiently extensive for the manufacturing of flint glass. 
Many wild turkeys were seen along upon the uninhabited 
shores. On the tenth, our boat discharged a part of her 
cargo at Portland, a small, newly built village. A fellow 
passenger, a merchant of this place, on landing, immediate- 
ly put in requisition some thirty colored men, women, and 
children, who readily, without the aid of horses or carts, 
transferred his merchandize to its destination. 

The boat stopped on the 11th, at Jefferson City, the 
capital of the state, situated on the south side of the river, 
upon a high eminence, a little above the Osage river. It 



28 SAND BARS. 

has a great name for so small a place. The state house 
is of a size which would be decent for a small academy ; 
and the governor's house would do very well for a common 
farmer's house in the country, but is not such as we 
should expect for a governor in Jefferson City. But the 
state of Missouri is comparatively new, and this place may 
in time support its name. 

Sabbath, the 12th, I remained in my state room, and 
endeavored to observe the day according to the command- 
ment. 

On Monday we passed Boonsville and Franklin, small 
villages, which have a country of rich land around them, 
and when it is brought under good cultivation, they must 
rise in importance. The scenery on this river is sufficiently 
diversified to excite interest and to charm. The trees along 
the shores are mostly oak and cotton-wood, with some 
hacberry and buckeye ; and it is interesting to see how 
easily and how deep they take root in the free rich soil 
along the river. Frequently, where the banks are wash- 
ing away, the roots of the trees are exposed to full view, 
and generally there is only a large central root descend- 
ing ten or twelve feet, with small ones branching out, pre- 
senting the appearance of an inverted cone. The river 
makes "nothing of washing away banks and islands and 
forming new ones. Sand bars and snags are so common, 
that, becoming accustomed to them, we hardly think of 
danger. 

On the 14th, we found the steamboat Siam, Captain 
L., at Chariton, on board of which the St. Charles put her 
freight and passengers, and returned, both boats having so 
far discharged their freight, that one could proceed with the 
remainder. When under way, the boat ran upon a sand 
bar, which gave it a sudden whirl about, apparently 
threatening a disaster ; but the quick sand of which the bar 



A CONTRAST. 29 

was composed, soon washed away, and we went ahead 
again. Running aground in this river is a very different 
thing from what it would be in most waters ; for the bars 
are so generally formed of quicksand, that in most instances 
the current around the boat sets all clear. 

Soon after getting under way, on the 16th, we ran upon 
a bar, where we were detained two and a half hours, and 
so frequently were we upon these obstructions, that we 
made only five miles before one o'clock, P. M. Called at 
Lexington, a village pleasantly situated one mile back 
from the landing, and surrounded by a fine country. We 
made only about fifteen miles headway to-day, which is so 
slow, that it would have been far more pleasant travelling 
by land ; and to have been free from imprisonment with 
shockingly profane swearers and gamblers, most of whom 
are intemperate. 

It was necessary to spend the nineteenth, another Sab- 
bath, on board the steamboat. How great a contrast to 
the sacredness of the day when it is enjoyed in the Chris- 
tian family circle ; or in the sanctuary where God is wor- 
shipped in the great congregation ; or in the quiet, unob- 
trusive Sabbath school, where attentive minds sit down to 
study the word of God, that they may practice its precepts, 
and where the teachers are heard explaining and enforcing 
divine truth upon the young and tender conscience. 

As we passed along, I saw many children standing on 
the banks of the river, and thought how benevolent per- 
sons at the east had desired their religious instruction, and 
how much had been done for the enterprise ; but it had 
failed to reach these. I also reflected on the examples of 
infidelity and vice around them, by which they are educa- 
ted for destruction, and endeavored to ask the Great Bene- 
factor of all, to do that for them which it was not in my 
power to do. I contrasted in my mind the difference be- 



30 A STEAMBOAT DISASTER. 

tween kindred souls in sweet communion in the service of 
God to-day, and the unrestrained wickedness of ungodly- 
men, which my eyes and ears were witnessing, and said, 
when will the kingdoms of this world become the king- 
doms of our Lord and his Christ. 

About the middle of the day, the captain and his men 
appeared to be given up to blind infatuation. The Siam 
was a new, well-built boat, had four boilers, and it was her 
first season. They appeared to regard no bounds in rais- 
ing and applying steam. Such was the power under 
which the boat labored, that she more than trembled. For 
a long time I expected some disaster, and looked at the 
captain to see if I could discover any apprehension of dan- 
ger. There was no want of evidence that there was a 
free use of ardent spirits. Soon the disaster came, though 
less extensive than I had feared; the main shaft, which 
was large and made of iron, broke, and farther progress 
was impossible. 

Monday, 20th. The day was spent in endeavoring to 
find some remedy for the disaster, but all to no purpose. 
It only remained to discharge her cargo upon the wilder- 
ness shore, let her passengers take care of themselves, and 
return with one wheel, like a crippled winged fowl. Two 
miles above us lay the steamboat Nelson, upon a sand bar 
high and dry. She ran aground upon the Sabbath, and be- 
ing left by a freshet in the river, is waiting for another, to 
be liberated. Our captain remarked at dinner to-day, that 
most of the accidents which happen to steamboats take 
place on the Sabbath ; and that he did not believe it would 
be long before they would not run on that daj. We en- 
gaged a man to take us in a wagon to Liberty, and towards 
evening went out into a small neighborhood of Mormons, 
where we lodged. They had fled from Jackson county, 
which they call their promised land, and to which they say 



LIBERTY. 31 

they shall return. They are a poor, deluded people, and 
when they speak of their persecutions, they seem not to 
possess the spirit of our Saviour, who, when he was reviled, 
reviled not again, and when he suffered, threatened not. 

We rode on the 21st, twelve miles to Liberty, through 
a very pleasant and fertile country, thinly inhabited, well 
supplied with woods, and sufficiently undulating and hilly 
to render it healthy. It was at that opening season of the 
year, when nature, arousing itself from the sleep of winter, 
appears with renovated beauty. Not only man, but flow- 
ers, and trees, and birds, seemed to enjoy the season and 
the scene. I was much charmed with the wood duck, (A. 
Sponsa) which here were numerous ; the variety of their 
colors were adapted to the beauty of the scenery which 
surrounded us. And the sprightly deer did not seem to 
accelerate its movements so much from fear, as from love 
of flight 

Liberty is a small village, sittfated three miles north of 
the river, and is the county town of Clay. It has a court- 
house of brick' — several stores, which do considerable bu- 
siness, a rope-walk, and a number of decent dwelling 
houses. 

We continued here about three weeks, waiting for the 
caravan to get in readiness. At this place it forms — men, 
horses and e mules, and wagons, are collected and put in 
readiness ; and from this place commences the long jour- 
ney for the west. Whi'e we remained here, we had an 
opportunity to collect much information from those who 
have been to and beyond the Rocky Mountains, in regard 
to the country, mode of traveling, and concerning the 
various Indian tribes on the way. Captain Ford and Lieu- 
tenant Stein, from Fort Leavenworth, were also here. 
They are both professors of religion, and appear to be well 
acquainted with the Indian country. Lieut. S. has been 



32 CANTONMENT LEAVENWORTH. 

much among the Indians, was out with the dragoons the 
last year — and was among the Pawnee Picts. He gives 
a very favorable account of them, and thinks the way is 
open to establish a mission among them with fair prospects 
of success. He also thinks the way is prepared, or is pre- 
paring, for a mission among the Camanches, who hereto- 
fore have been hostile, but now wish for peace and trade 
with the Americans. I saw also a Mr. Vaughn of this 
place, a Baptist professor, who has made two trips to San- 
ta Fe, and has resided two years in that place. He gives 
a very interesting description of the Navahoes, a tribe who 
number about two thousand warriors. Their country lies 
between the Rio Del Norte, and the eastern branches of 
Rio Colorado. They carry on agriculture to a very con- 
siderable extent ; have large herds of cattle and horses, 
and flocks of sheep ; and have many domestic manufac- 
tures, and houses of good construction. They are friendly 
to the Americans, but not to the Spaniards. Mr. V. thinks 
they would readily receive Protestant missionaries, and 
would prefer them to Roman Catholics, because of their 
hostility to the Spaniards. He also speaks well of the 
Paches, or Apaches, a small tribe on the Del Norte 
towards old Mexico. These have been at war three years 
with the Spaniards. 

Saturday, May 9th, rode twenty-six miles to Canton- 
ment Leavenworth, which is situated on the west side of 
the Missouri river, nearly twenty miles out of the United 
States. The way is through a fertile section of country ; 
part of the distance is an open prairie, other parts are 
handsomely wooded, and all are well adapted to cultiva- 
tion. I had an introduction to several of the officers, and 
made my home at Lient. Stein's, an agreeable and reli- 
gious family. 

I preached three times on the Sabbath, and most of the 






SINGULAR VIEWS. 33 

people of the garrison assembled, and gave good attention. 
There is a very considerable number of professors of reli- 
gion attached to this station, but they have no chaplain to 
teach and lead them in their devotions ; this is a deficien- 
cy in our military establishments. Colonel Dodge and 
some of the other officers appeared disposed to maintain 
good order, and I should think they exerted a salutary in- 
fluence. I had an opportunity, before I returned to Liber- 
ty, to take a view of the fort and the adjacent country. 
The buildings of the fort are situated within an enclosure 
around a large, beautiful square, which is covered with 
grass and adorned with shade trees. The whole is on an 
elevation of a few hundred feet, and has an interesting 
prospect of the majestic river flowing on silently below. 
The fertile country around presents a wide and fine pros- 
pect, and when settled by an industrious population, will 
equal the most favored parts of the earth. 

Liberty and the surrounding country, is inhabited by 
people of considerable enterprise, and when it shall be 
brought under Christian influence, there will be but few 
places more inviting. There is but one Presbyterian min- 
ister in this county, a man of talents and very respectable 
attainments, who is exerting a good influence. The Bap- 
tists in this section of country are unlike those of the east. 
They are opposed to the benevolent operations of the day. 
Elder H. the pastor of the church in this place, invited 
Rev. Mr. Merrill, a Baptist missionary, located among the 
Otoe Indians of the Platte, and myself, to preach for him 
the first Sabbath after our arrival. His people objected, 
apprehensive that Mr. Merrill would say something about 
the cause of temperance, or missionary efforts, and Elder 
H. had to withdraw his invitation. They profess to act 
from Christian principles in refusing to give their minister 
any thing for support, lest they should make him an hireling. 



34 PROVINCIALISMS. 

It is amusing to observe the provincialisms which are 
common in this part of the country. If a person intends to 
commence a journey some time in the month, for instance, 
in May ; he says, " I am going in all the month of May." 
For a large assembly of people, they say, " a smart sprin- 
kle of people." The word " balance," comes into almost 
every transaction — " will you not have a dessert for the 
balance of your dinner V 9 — " to make out the balance of his 
night's rest, he slept until eight in the morning." If your 
baggage is to be carried, it will be asked, " shall I tote 
your plunder ?" This use of the word plunder is said to 
have originated in the early predatory habits of the bor- 
derers. They also speak of a " mighty pleasant day" — 
" a mighty beautiful flower"—" migfrty weak." A gentle- 
man with whom I formed some acquaintance, invited me, 
when I should make " an outing" for exercise, to call at 
his house \ for his family would be " mighty glad " to see 
me. 

During our continuance at this place we were hospita- 
bly entertained at the house of J. Bird, Esq., one of the 
judges of the county court. We were under many obliga- 
tions to him and Mrs. B. not only for their liberality, but 
also for the privilege of retirement in so kind and intelli- 
gent a family. Nor would we be unmindful of the hospi- 
tality shown us by Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Yantis. 

May 15th, all things being in readiness, we commenced 
our journey for Council Bluffs, directing our course north- 
west. We did not get to-day beyond the boundaries of 
the United States, and for the last time, for a long period 
to come, I lodged in the house of a civilized family. 

The next day, we traveled twenty miles, which brought 
us beyond the limits of civilization, and into the Indian 
country. We encamped on a prairie surrounded with wood. 
The sensations excited by the circumstances of our situ a- 



INDIAN TRIBES. 35 

tion were peculiar, and such as I had not before felt j in a 
wilderness, inhabited by unseen savages and wild beasts, 
engaged in setting our tent, preparing supper with only a 
few articles of furniture, the ground for our chairs, table, 
and bed. But all was conducted in good style ; for I 
would not dispense with attention to decencies, because 
beyond the boundaries of civilization ; and having ad- 
justed every thing in good order, and offered up our eve- 
ning devotions, we retired to rest. But how to adjust all 
the anxieties and feelings of the mind, so as to obtain the 
desired repose, was a more difficult task. 

On the 17th, I crossed over the east, or little Platte, 
which is a very considerable river, and spent the Sabbath 
with Mr. Gilmore, a Methodist professor, and governmen- 
tal blacksmith for the Iowa Indians. Saw many Indians 
of the Iowa, Sioux, and Fox tribes. Among these a Fox 
Indian and his wife were noble looking persons, having 
their faces painted with unmixed vermillion ; the former 
entirely, and the latter in stripes. They felt too impor- 
tant to be seen noticing what was transpiring around, and 
seemed to thinlPthemselves the only objects worthy of 
notice. 

Here is an excellent, fertile tract of country, and nothing 
discouraging for a missionary station, except the contam- 
inating influence of vicious white men. The natives wish 
to cultivate their land, probably more from necessity than 
on any other account; for their game is mostly gone. 
One of them came to Mr. Gilmore to get some ploughs, 
and remarked, " It is hard work to dig up our ground for 
corn by hand." The Sioux here are only a small band, 
who would not join Black Hawk in his war against the 
United States, and who are now afraid to return to their 
own country. Their condition is becoming more and more 
wretched; for while they have not the knowledge, the 



36 BLACK SNAKE HILLS. 

means, nor much of the inclination necessary to cultivate 
their lands advantageously, they have an insatiable thirst 
for ardent spirits ; and there are too many unprincipled men 
on our frontiers, who, for the sake of gain, will supply 
them with the means of drunkenness and destruction. 

Leaving Mr. G., gratefully remembering his hospitality, 
we rode on Monday, 18th, twelve miles to Blacksnake 
Hills. At this place Mr. Rubedoux has a trading post, 
and an uncommonly fine farming establishment on the 
Missouri river. His buildings are on a small elevation 
of land, having a delightful prospect in front of more 
than a thousand acres of open bottom land, lying along 
down the river ; and hills on the north and east par- 
tially covered with woods- What has nature not wrought 
without the labor of man ? The herds of cattle, and other 
domestic animals, have as wide a range as they choose, 
and fences are necessary only to secure fields for culti- 
vation. 

The Indians here have a new mode of disposing of their 
deadr A scaffold is raised about eight feet high, upon 
which the dead are placed in rudely instructed coffins 
overspread with skins. 

Having obtained a supply of milk, I encamped out, pre- 
ferring the field to the house, where I might have been 
subjected to many kinds of annoyances. 

For several days nothing special occurred. On the 22d 
we crossed the Nodaway river with a raft ; the construc- 
tion of which, and transporting our baggage, occupied 
most of the day. To construct a raft, a number of dry logs 
are collected, and secured together, side by side, with barks 
stripped from elm trees ; some few men swim across the 
river, taking with them one end of a rope, while the other 
end is fastened to the raft; it is then shoved off, the men 
upon the other side of the river pulling upon the rope. 



ELK. 37 

The raft is generally drifted considerably down stream, 
before it is brought to land upon the opposite shore. In 
this manner they crossed and re-crossed, until the baggage 
was carried over. Then followed the swimming over the 
horses, which is attended with noise enough — hallooing of 
men, snorting of the horses, and throwing sticks and stones 
to prevent them, after having gone part the way over, 
from returning. 

We saw many elk, but they were too wary to be ap- 
proached, and too fleet to be chased, and our hunters were 
not sufficiently successful to obtain any. They are very 
large, and when their horns are on, have a very majestic 
appearance. We frequently found their horns on the 
prairie, some of which were four feet long, with large wide 
spreading branches. . 

Sabbath, the twenty-fourth, passing over a brook near 
which we had encamped the evening before, my companion 
and myself remained for the day, while the caravan went 
on. The movements of the caravan are so slow, that we 
felt confident we could overtake them without any difficulty; 
and as there was no danger from the hostile Indians, we 
considered it our duty to rest on this holy day. The day 
was very warm for May, the thermometer standing, at two 
in the afternoon, at 88°. 

The next day we crossed the south branch ol the Nesh- 
nabotana on a raft, and overtook the caravan before night. 
Some of the men of the caravan, if not all, were much dis- 
pleased because we did not travel with them on the Sab- 
bath. To express their displeasure, they cut some of the 
barks, with which the raft they had made was bound to- 
gether, and set it adrift. Providentially it did not drift far 
before it lodged against a tree, and, without much loss of 
time, we repaired it and passed over. 

After our arrangements were made for the night, one of 



38 NESHNABOTANA RIVER. 

the desperadoes came to our tent with a basin of alcohol, 
and stated to us that they had taken the offence of our re- 
fusing to travel with them on the Sabbath into considera- 
tion, and had concluded to pass it over, if we would take 
a friendly drink with them. This, of course, we declined. 
He said the men were highly displeased, and he could not say 
what would be the result — giving us to understand that if 
we refused their terms of reconciliation, our lives were in 
danger. We still refused. He then said if we would put 
the basin to our lips and wet them, they would accept that 
as satisfaction. But his arguments and threats not avail- 
ing to shake our temperance principles, he went away; 
yet as we afterwards learned without giving up the pur- 
pose of revenge on some other occasion. 

On the twenty-sixth, we came to the main branch of the 
Neshnabotana, and commenced making a raft, the finish- 
ing of which and crossing took most of the following day. 
The soil of this part of the country is rich, and the grass 
for our horses is excellent; but there are none here to till 
the ground, nor to gather in the ten thousand tons of hay, 
which might be made from the spontaneous growth. This 
part of the country does not yet answer the end for which 
it was created. The time will come, when a dense popu- 
lation will cover this country, who will render the sacri- 
fice of prayer and praise to our God. 

On the 28th, we rode eleven miles, and came to the 
north branch of the above mentioned river. After we had 
constructed a raft, we had a very difficult time of crossing. 
The water was continually and rapidly rising, and before 
we finished crossing, the banks were overflowed to conside- 
rable depth ; thus the alluvial soil was rendered too soft to 
sustain our horses, and they sunk so deep that we could not 
proceed. After searching for a long time, a place was 
found sufficiently hard to bear up our animals when un- 



MOUNDS OF THE WEST. 39 

loaded. We had to carry our baggage upon our shoulders 
about fifteen rods, part of the way in water mid deep, go- 
ing forward and returning until all was carried to better 
ground ; and then we had to ride a mile to the dry prairie 
in water one and two feet deep. We rejoiced to find our- 
selves once more on firm footing. Encamped by a stream 
of clear water, which is rare in this part of the country, and 
especially at this season of the year. The waters of all 
this portion of country, especially of the Missouri river, 
and its large tributaries, are very turbid, owing to the na- 
ture of the soil over which Ihey pass. A pail full of wa- 
ter, standing half an hour at the seasons of freshets, will 
deposit three-eighths of an inch of sediment; and yet the 
water, when settled, appears to be of good quality. 

Our mode of living, from day to day, had already neces- 
sarily become uniform. Dry bread and bacon constituted 
our breakfast, dinner, and supper. The bacon we cooked, 
when we could obtain wood for fire; but when "out of 
sight of land," that is, when nothing but green grass could 
be seen, we eat our bacon without cooking. Some of the 
simplest articles of furniture were sufficient for our culinary 
purposes. The real wants of life are few, artificial ones 
are numerous. 

30th. We drew near to Council Bluffs, and passed down 
from the high, rolling prairie, through a vale two or three 
miles long, and a half mile wide, into the rich alluvial, and 
widely extended valley of the Missouri, through a section 
of country of uncommonly interesting scenery. The 
mounds, which some have called the work of unknown 
generations of men, were scattered here in all varieties 
of forms and magnitudes ; and were thousands in number, 
and perhaps I may say ten thousands. Some of these 
mounds were conical, some eliptical, some square, and 
others parallelograms. One group of these attracted my 



40 MOUNDS OF THE WEST. 

attention more than any others. They were twelve in 
number, of conical form, with their bases joined, and twenty 
or thirty feet high. They formed about two-thirds of a 
circle, with an area of two hundred feet in diameter. If 
these were isolated, who would not say they are artificial? 
But when they are only a group of ten thousand others, 
which have as much the appearance of being artificial, 
w T ho will presume to say they are the work of man ? But 
if they are the work of art, and attest the number, the ge- 
nius, and perseverance of departed nations, whose works 
have survived the lapse of ages, their history is shrouded 
in darkness. " The mind seeks in vain for some clue to 
assist it in unraveling the mystery. Was their industry 
stimulated by the desire to protect themselves against in- 
roads of invaders, or were they themselves the aggressors?" 
" Are they the monuments of western Pharaohs, and do 
they conceal treasures which may yet be brought to light?" 
There is nothing plainer than that they were never de- 
signed as works of defence. But some, while they admit 
that these mounds were not designed for offensive or de- 
fensive operations of belligerent powers, have supposed 
that they were erected as " mausoleums, and that the dif- 
ference in their size was intended to convey an idea of the 
difference in the relative importance of those whose bones 
they cover." If this theory is true, the La Trappe on the 
Mississippi, which I had an opportunity of examining on 
my northern tour, and which is as much as one hundred 
and fifty feet high, covering about six acres, must inclose 
mighty bones, or the bones of a mighty monarch. I would 
not be understood to dissent from the belief, that there are 
artificial mounds in the great valley of the west, but I be- 
lieve there are great mistakes in the theories upon this 
subject. It is said, by those who advocate the belief that 
they are the work of ancient nations, that they present 



MOUNDS OF THE WEST. 41 

plain evidence of this, from the fact that they contain hu- 
man bones, articles of pottery, and the like, which evince 
that they were constructed for "burying places of the 
dead. That some of them have been used for burying 
places is undoubtedly true ; but may it not be questionable 
whether they were constructed, or only selected for bury- 
ing places. Besides, if these mounds were works of hu- 
man art, I confess myself wholly at a loss to discover the 
traces of design, which are always characteristic of every 
human effort. The absence of every other vestige of a 
race extinct, such as monuments, walls, cities, or ruins of 
any description, lead us to believe, that such a people must 
have lived only to burrow in the earth, as these mounds are 
the only traces they have left of their existence. Depopu- 
late any portion of the world, with which we are acquainted, 
and, save the savages who roam the desert or the prairie, 
many centuries must elapse, before all monuments would 
entirely cease to exist. No one, who has ever seen the 
immense number of mounds scattered through the valley 
of the Mississippi, will ever be so credulous as to believe 
that a five hundredth part of them are the work of man. 

We crossed the Maragine river, which, though very 
deep, was not so wide but that we constructed a bridge 
over it. Proceeding many miles through the rich bottom 
lands of the Missouri, we crossed this noble river over 
against Bellevue, in a large canoe, and swam our horses 
and mules across ; this, on account of the width of the 
river, and the strength of the current, required much effort. 
I went to the agency house, where I was happy to find 
brethren Dunbar and Allis, missionaries to the Pawnees, 
under the direction of the American Board of Commission- 
ers for Foreign Missions. There is a Baptist mission here, 
composed of Rev. Moses Merril and wife, Miss Brown, 
and a Christian Indian woman, a descendant of Rev. D. 



42 AMERICAN FUR COMPANY. 

Brainard's Indians. They are appointed by the Baptist 
Board to labor among the Otoe Indians, about twenty-five 
miles from this place, on the river Platte. These Indians 
are away from their intended residence about half the time, 
on hunting excursions. 

A little more than a half mile below the agency, the 
American Fur Company have a fort, and in connexion, 
they have a farming establishment and large numbers of 
cattle and horses, and a horse-power mill for grinding corn. 



BEAUTIFUL SCENERY. 43 



CHAPTER III. 

Continuance at Council Bluffs ; interesting scenery ; Indian curiosity ; 
information obtained about several Indian tribes; Spasmodic Cholera; 
an Indian Chief killed ; leave Bellevue for the Black Hills ; storm of 
rain ; heavy thunder storm ; Elkhorn river, the country around ; 
Loups Fork of the Platte ; manner of encamping ; Big Ax, Pawnee 
Chief; Indian feasting ; fourth of July ; Messrs. Dunbar and Allis ; 
thunder storm ; Indian Ornaments ; effects of drunkenness ; bite of a 
rattlesnake; buffalo seen ; prairie horse-fly ; forks of the Platte ; want 
of wood ; swiftness of antelopes ; climate ; thousands of buffalo ; 
badgers; prairie dog; interesting bluffs ; old castle ; the chimney, or 
beacon ; an alarm ; Ogallallah Indians, their lodges ; Black Hills. 

We continued in this place three weeks 3 waiting the 
movements of the caravan, who made slow progress in pre- 
paring their packages for the mountains. During our de- 
tention here, I frequently walked over the hills bordering 
upon the west of the valley of the Missouri, to enjoy the 
pure air of the rolling prairies, and to view the magnifi- 
cent prospects unfolded in the vale below. From the sum- 
mit of those prominences, the valley of the Missouri may be 
traced until lost in its far winding course among the bluffs. 
Three miles below, is seen the Papillon, a considerable 
stream from the north-west, winding its way round to the 
east, and uniting with the Missouri, six miles above the 
confluence of the Platte coming from the west. These 
flow through a rich alluvial plain, opening to the south 
and south-west as far as the eye can reach. Upon these 
meadows are seen feeding some few hundreds of horses 
and mules, and a herd of cattle ; and some fields of corn 
diversified the scenery. The north is covered with woods, 
which are not less valuable than the rich vales. But few 



44 MISSIONARY PROSPECTS. 

places can present a prospect more interesting, and when a 
civilized population shall add the fruits of their industry, 
but few can be more desirable. 

In respect to efforts for the religious instruction and con- 
version of the Indians, I am convinced, from all I can learn 
of their native character, that the first impressions which 
the missionary makes upon them, are altogether important 
in their bearings on successful labors afterwards. In things 
about which they are conversant, they are men; but about 
other things they are children ; and like children, the an- 
nouncement of a new subject awakens their attention, their 
curiosity, and their energies; and it has been remarked by 
a Methodist missionary who has labored among the Indians, 
that many seemed to embrace the gospel on its first being 
offered, and that those among the adults, w T ho failed to do so, 
were rarely converted. If, from any motives, or from any 
cause, instruction is delayed, and their expectations are 
disappointed, they relapse into their native apathy, from 
which it is difficult to arouse them. 

We had an opportunity, whilst we continued in this 
place, to collect much information relating to the Indians 
in the Sioux country, from Major Pitcher, the agent ap- 
pointed by government to the Yanktons, a band of the 
Sioux. He appeared to be not only intelligent and can- 
did, but also well disposed towards Indian improvement 
The following is the substance of the information which 
he gave us in regard to several tribes to the north and 
north-west of this place: that the Omahaws are situated 
upon the Missouri, about one hundred and fifty miles above 
this place, and number about two thousand. They have 
been well disposed towards the whites, but, owing to their 
intercourse with traders and trappers, and abuses which 
they have received from them, they are becoming more 
vicious in their habits, and less friendly. Yet, kind treat- 



SIOUX INDIANS. 45 

ment would conciliate their favor, so that there would be 
no reason to fear but that a mission might be established 
among them with fair prospects of success. 

The Yanktons are an interesting band of the Sioux, of 
about two thousand people. Their village is to be located 
on the Vermilion river, where it unites with the Missouri 
from the north. Maj. P. thinks this will be a very eligi- 
ble place for a missionary station, and says he will do all 
in his power to aid such an enterprise. 

The Ponca Indians, on the south side of the Missouri, at 
the confluence of the Veau qui coure, number six or eight 
hundred, and speak the same language as the Omahaws. 

The region of country, from the mouth of the Big Sioux 
river and that on the south of the Veau qui coure, as high 
as the country of the Mandan Indians, may be classed un- 
der the general head of the Sioux country ; and is inhabited 
by the following bands of Sioux, viz : the Yanktons, al- 
ready mentioned, Santas, Yanktonas, Tetons, Ogallallahs, 
Siones, and the Hankpapes, who course east and west 
from the Mississippi to the Black Hills, and sometimes as 
far south as the river Platte. The real number of the sev- 
eral bands cannot be correctly ascertained, but probably it 
is from forty to sixty thousand. Their habits are wander- 
ing, and they rely exclusively upon the chase for subsis- 
tence. Their principal trade is in buffalo robes. The 
traders have for many years maintained a friendly inter- 
course with them, and, generally speaking, they are much 
attached to white men. 

The Mandans are a much more stationary people than 
almost any other tribe in this whole region of country, and 
the opportunity to establish missionaries among them is 
good; but on account of repeated ill treatment, which they 
have experienced, thej are beginning to grow Suspicious, 
and are losing confidence in white men. 



46 SPASMODIC CHOLERA. 

Our stay in this place has been protracted much beyond 
our expectations. Two weeks after our arrival, the spas- 
modic cholera broke out with a great degree of malignity. 
The weather was very warm, and there were showers from 
day to day. The intemperate habits of the men, and their 
manner of living, probably had a tendency to induce the 
disease. Three of the company died; and several others 
barely survived, through the blessing of God upon the as- 
siduous attentions of Doct. Whitman, my associate, and the 
free use of powerful medicines. And, had it not been for 
his successful practice, the men would have dispersed, and 
the caravan would have failed of going to the place of ren- 
dezvous. This was plainly seen and frankly acknowledged. 
This alarming disease was the means of effecting our de- 
parture sooner than it otherwise would have taken place. 
It was necessary to hasten to the higher prairies, as the 
only prospect of escaping the farther ravages of the dis- 
ease. Not a single new case occurred after we recom- 
menced our journey. This afflictive scourge, so far as it 
respected Dr. W. and myself, was providential. The as- 
sistance we rendered The sick, and the medical skill of the 
Doctor, converted those into permanent friends, who had so 
disliked the restraints which our presence imposed upon 
them, that, as they afterwards confessed, they had plotted 
our death, and intended on the first convenient occasion to 
put their purpose in execution. 

Whilst at Bellevue, a man by the name of Garrio, a half 
blood Indian chief of the Arickara nation, was shot under 
very aggravated circumstances. Garrio and his family 
were residing in a log cabin on the Papillon river. Six or 
seven men, half intoxicated, went down to his house in the 
night, called him up, took him away a half mile, and shot 
him with six balls, scalped him, and left him unburied. 
The reason they assigned for doing so, was, that he was a 



MURDER OP A CHIEF. 47 

bad man, and had killed white men. If he was guilty, who 
authorized them to take his life ? The Arickara nation will 
remember this, and probably take revenge on some inno- 
cent persons. This, I apprehend, is the way Indian wars 
are often produced. While we charge the Indians with 
inveterate ferociousness and inhuman brutality, we forget 
the too numerous wrongs and outrages committed upon 
them, which incite them to revenge. They cannot appre- 
hend and do justice to such offenders. Or if they could, 
would it not be published as a gross Indian murder and 
aggression, and a war of extermination be commenced 
against them? When Indian offences are proclaimed, we 
hear only one side of the story, and the other will not be 
heard until the last great day. 

Monday, June 22d. After so long delay, we re-com- 
menced our journey for the " far west." The Black Hills 
are to be our next stopping place. The caravan started 
yesterday. We passed over a rich, extensive prairie, but 
so poorly watered, that we did not find a stream through 
the whole day. In the afternoon we had to ride in a heavy, 
cold rain, in consequence of which I became much chilled. 
We overtook the caravan, and encamped before night on a 
high prairie, where we could find but little wood, and it 
was difficult to make a fire. We had for supper coarse 
bread made of corn, and some bacon. The change from 
the comforts to the bare necessaries of life was trying ; 
but when I had wrapped myself in my blankets and laid 
down upon the ground to repose for the night, I felt thank- 
ful to God for his goodness. 

Being now beyond all white inhabitants, in an Indian 
country, and not knowing what the eventful future may 
unfold, I thought I could give up all my private interests 
for the good of the perishing heathen, if I could be instru- 
mental of their temporal and eternal welfare. Come life 



48 A STORM. 

or death, I could say, "thy will be done." I felt strong 
confidence that God would protect and provide for us, and 
derived great consolation from the promise, "Lo, I am 
with you always." The very pelting of the storm upon 
our tent had something in it soothing, and calculated to 
awaken the feeling that God was near. 

On the 23d, the storm still continued, and we did not 
remove our encampment. 

Towards noon on the 24th, we went forward on our way 
and crossed the Papillon river, which occasioned much de- 
lay to get the baggage, wagons, and animals over. We 
did not find a suitable place for encamping where we could 
be accommodated with wood and water until about sunset; 
and before we could pitch our tent, a thunder storm, which 
had been gathering for a long time, came down upon us 
with great violence, accompanied with wind and hail. 
The animals of the caravan fled in different directions, 
some packed and some unpacked. I haa* only time to un- 
pack my mule and let him go, and it was with much diffi- 
culty I could hold my horse ; he had become almost 
frantic under the beating hail, nor did I escape without 
some contusions. The lightning was very frequent, and 
the thunder was almost one continual roar. After a while 
the fury of the storm abated, and in the dark we pitched 
our tent and got our baggage into it, but were rot able to 
make a fire. We took such supper as we could provide 
with our coarse bread and bacon, without light and with- 
out fire, and laid ourselves down to rest. During the night 
there were several showers which created rivulets, some of 
which found their way under our tent. Towards morning 
we slept, and arose somewhat refreshed. 

The morning of the 25th was very pleasant, and afforded 
a good opportunity to dry our baggage, and for the cara- 
van to collect together their packs of goods, which were 



A FRIENDLY MEETING. 49 

scattered over the prairie. After having spent the fore- 
noon in drying and adjusting them, we went forw ard and 
arrived at the Elkhorn, a very considerable river. For 
conveyance over this river, we constructed a boat of a 
wagon box, so covered with undressed skins as to make 
it nearly water tight. The method was very good, and 
we commenced crossing; but night came on before we fin- 
ished, and therefore we encamped on the east side. The 
country here is excellent, and tolerably supplied with 
wood. 

On the 26th, we continued carrying over our baggage, 
and finished crossing at half after twelve, after which we 
traveled ten miles up the Elkhorn, and stopped for the 
night. 

On the 27th, we arose very early and pursued our jour- 
ney, and made good progress until 3, P. M. when we met 
Messrs. Campbell and Sublette with a small caravan, re- 
turning from the Black Hills. When mountain traders 
meet under such circumstances, there must be mutual ex- 
changes of friendship, more ceremonious and complicated 
than can be gone through with in the passing " how do 
you do." The two caravans encamped, in due form, and 
at a respectful distance from each other. 

Sabbath, 28tb. The caravans continued here through 
the day. This gave us an opportunity to rest, and to at- 
tend to devotional exercises in our tent. 

On the 29th, passed over and traveled a good distance 
up Shell creek. This section of country, belongs to the 
Otoes on the east, and the Pawnees on the west. For 
about twenty-five miles since we crossed the Elkhorn, be- 
tween this river and the Platte, which are here about ten 
miles apart, there is not a single hill. It is rich bottom 
land, covered with a luxuriant growth of grass. No coun- 
try could be more inviting to the farmer, with only one 
3 



50 FUTURE PROSPECTS. 

exception, the want of wood land. The latitude is suffi- 
ciently high to be healthy; and as the climate grows 
warmer as we travel west, until we approach the snow- 
topped mountains, there is a degree of mildness, not ex- 
perienced east of the Alleghany mountains. The time 
mil come, and probably is not far distant, when this coun- 
try will be covered with a dense population. The earth 
was created for the habitation of man, and for a theatre, 
on which God will manifest his perfections in his moral 
government among his moral creatures, and therefore the 
earth, according to divine prediction, shall be given to the 
people of God. Although infidels may sneer, and scoffers 
mock, yet God will accomplish his designs, and fulfil every 
promise contained in his Word. Then this amazing ex- 
tent of most fertile land will not continue to be the wan- 
dering ground of a few thousand Indians, with only a very 
few acres under cultivation ; nor will millions of tons of 
grass grow up to rot upon the ground or to be burned up 
with the fire enkindled to sweep over the prairie, to disen- 
cumber it of its spontaneous burden. The herds of buffalo 
which once fattened upon these meadows are gone ; and 
the deer which once cropped the grass have disappeared ; 
and the antelopes have fled away ; and shall solitude reign 
here till the end of time ? No : here shall be heard the 
din of business, and the church-going bell shall sound far 
and wide. The question is, by whom shall this region of 
country be inhabited ? It is plain that the Indians, under 
their present circumstances, will never multiply and fill 
this land. They must be brought under the influence 
.of civilization and Christianity, or they will continue to 
melt away, until nothing will remain of them but the relics 
found in museums, and some historical records. Philan- 
thropy and the mercy of God plead in their behalf. 

We were awakened on the 30th, at the first breaking 



LOUPS FORK OF THE PLATTE. 51 

of the day, by the usual call, "out, out; gear up your 
mules !" We traveled until one o'clock, P. M., more than 
eight hours, when we halted and breakfasted. We went 
again on our way, and came to the Loups fork of the 
Platte, and stopped for the night. Most of the country 
over which we traveled to-day, is a rolling prairie. 
There is nothing in this section of country to interest the 
geologist. I did not see a single stone, after passing the 
Papillon to this place, excepting a few small ones at the 
point where we crossed that stream, and which on that ac- 
count is called Rockford. It is one of the peculiarities of 
the dialect of the people in the most western states, to call 
small stones, rocks. And therefore they speak of throw- 
ing a rock at a bird, or at a man. There are no forests 
in these western regions. The meadows spread out al- 
most without bounds. There are only here and there 
some clumps of trees; and the rivers and smaller streams 
are skirted with cotton wood, elms and willows. What- 
ever propriety there once was, there is none now, in call- 
ing the Indians, children of the forest. 

The thermometer stood to-day, at noon, at 81°. 
Wednesday, July 1st. I rested the last night as quietly 
as I should have done upon a good bed, in a civilized 
country ; and was cheerful in committing myself to God, to 
awake in this, or in the eternal world. 

We have a small tent made of coarse cotton cloth, form- 
ing a cone. After setting this, we stow away our baggage 
so as to leave a space in the centre for our lodgings. My 
bed is made by first spreading down a buffalo skin, upon 
this a bear skin, then two or three Mackinaw blankets, 
and my portmanteau constitutes my pillow. 

We proceeded to-day a few miles up the Loups fork, 
and unexpectedly found a good fording place, where we 
crossed the river, which in this place is nearly a mile wide. 



52 MANNER OF ENCAMPING. 

After going a few miles up the river, we halted for the 
night. The manner of our encamping, is to form a large 
hollow square, encompassing an area of about an acre, 
having the river on one side ; three wagons forming a part 
of another side, coming down to the river ; and three 
more in the same manner on the opposite side ; and the 
packages so arranged in parcels, about three rods apart, as 
to fill up the rear, and the sides not occupied by the wagons. 
The horses and mules, near the middle of the day, are 
turned out under guard, to feed for two hours; and the 
same again towards night, until after sunset, when they 
are taken up and brought into the hollow square, and fast- 
ened with ropes twelve feet long, to pickets driven firmly 
into the ground. The men are divided into small companies, 
stationed at the several parcels of goods and wagons, 
where they wrap themselves in their blankets and rest for 
the night ; the whole, however, are formed into six divi- 
sions to keep guard, relieving each other every two hours. 
This is to prevent hostile Indians from falling upon us by 
surprise, or coming into the camp by stealth, and taking 
away either horses or packages of goods. We were per- 
mitted, by favor, to pitch our tent next to the river, half 
way between the two wings, which made our situation a 
little more retired. 

Nothing of special interest occurred on the 2d. On 
the 3d, we passed the villages cf the Tapnge and Re- 
publican Pawnee Indians. These Indians have dwellings 
which appear substantial and somewhat adapted to com- 
fort. Many of the Pawnee Loups came to us, and received 
us with great civility and kindness. Big Ax, their second 
chief, had charge of this party. He is a man of dignified 
appearance, and his countenance is expressive of intelli- 
gence and benevolence. He is very friendly to white men. 
These Indians were going out upon their summer hunt, by 



PAWNEE FEASTS. 53 

the same route we were pursuing, and were not willing 
we should go on before them, lest we should frighten away 
the buffalo. 

They manifested their friendship by inviting us to feasts ; 
and as we may attend half a dozen in a day without being 
surfeited, an explanation may not be out of place. Big 
Ax gave the first invitation ; and since it is not customary 
for those who provide the feast to sit down with their 
guests, he and his associates sat in dignified silence on one 
side of the lodge, while those of us who partook of the 
feast, occupied the centre. The daughters of Big Ax served 
us on the occasion, and bountifully helped us to boiled corn 
and beans. Such are their customs, that to avoid giving 
offence, we must eat all that is set before us, or take it 
away ; and Mr. Fontenelle took what remained. In the 
evening we were invited to two others. The first consist- 
ed of boiled corn and dried pumpkins, and the other of 
boiled buffalo meat. The next morning we also gave the 
principal chiefs a feast, setting before them all the variety 
which our bacon and coarse bread could furnish, having it 
in our power to add a di^h of coffee, of which luxury we 
partook for this once on our whole journey. 

Amidst the uniformity of prairie scenery, there is yet 
some variety. It was curious to mark the alterations which 
time and flood have made in the channel of this river. 
Formerly, perhaps not a few centuries ago, the river ran a 
hundred feet higher than at present, and it is owing to the 
yielding nature of the soil that its waters are so very tur- 
bid. The water of the Loups Fork, however, compara- 
tively speaking, is quite clear. This section of country 
offers an interesting field for botanical research. Since 
crossing the Elkhorn, I have noticed nine different species 
of grass, most of which are entirely new. The flowering 
plants are very numerous and beautiful, and especially the 



54 MISSIONARIES. 

rose, which is found of almost every hue. Thermometer, 
at noon, 90°. 

July 4th. This is a day of great noise and bustle in the 
states. Orators speak of the deeds and achievements of 
our forefathers : their audiences catch the spirit of patriot- 
ism. Not so with our company. Having almost expa- 
triated themselves, they had forgotten their nation's birth- 
day ; and knowing that their days of indulgence would be 
seasons of reveling, I forbore to remind them of it. How 
suitable would be a rational religious expression of grati- 
tude to Heaven, instead of the confusion and riot, which 
are the common demonstrations of joy on such occasions. 
Thermometer at 96° at noon. 

On the 5th, which was the Sabbath, the caravan went 
forward a few miles and then encamped. The Indians were 
constantly calling at our tent through the day. It was 
painful to witness their poor, degraded condition, ignorant 
of God and salvation, and, for want of a knowledge of 
their language, to be unable to point them to the Saviour, 
or teach them their obligations to their Maker, and their 
duty to turn to Him with their whole heart. I hope and 
pray that the Pawnee mission may prosper ; that the dis- 
position which Messrs. Dunbar and Allis manifest to go 
with the Indians and live as they live, may be followed up, 
until their teaching and influence are felt, and the Indians 
shall locate themselves upon their lands, under the influence 
of Christianity and civilization. The mode which Messrs. 
D. and A. have adopted of going with the Indians where 
they go, appears to be the right one, and must be generally 
followed to bring the numerous wandering nations and 
tribes to the knowledge of Christ. 

It is all important that the missionary should be able to 
speak to the heathen in the language in which they were 
born. It is also important that the Indians settle down 



INDIAN CHARACTER. 55 

and cultivate the soil ; but how can they be induced to do 
this before they are taught ? An interpreter may be em- 
ployed for a while, but the missionary must become, as 
soon as possible, his own interpreter. And why can he 
not learn the Indian language as well as the trader and 
hunter ? He can, if he will exercise as much self-denial. 

On the 6th, we left the Loups Fork, very early in the 
morning, in company with the Pawnees, and directed our 
course south-west for the Platte river. Towards evening, 
we had a thunder storm with heavy rains, which continued 
through most of the night j but, protected by our tent, we 
slept so soundly, that our meat was stolen from us ; and in 
our circumstances, though only about six pounds, it was a 
sensible loss. 

After we came to the Platte, we pursued our way up 
the river, which is broad, but not very deep, as its name 
indicates. The country begins to diminish in its fertility f 
but still is very good. We were prevented from making 
the progress we might have done, if the Indians would 
have permitted us to go on and leave them. The men of 
the caravan began to complain of the delay, and had rea- 
son to do so, having nothing to eat but boiled corn, and no 
way to obtain any thing more before finding buffalo. 

These Indians are not wanting in intellect, however un- 
cultivated. They are fond of ornaments, and not having 
the same means of gratifying their vanity as civilized people 
have, they resort to almost any thing to decorate their per- 
sons ; such as porcupine quills, beads, wreaths of grass 
and flowers, brass rings upon their wrists, birds' feathers, 
and claws of wild beasts. The claws of a grizzly bear are 
an ornament of the first order, and the tails of white wolves 
are in high estimation. But their favorite and almost uni- 
versal mode ol ornament is to paint their faces with ver- 
milion. 



56 BIG AX, A PAWNEE CHIEF. 

Like all other heathen, they are ignorant of the benign 
influence of the gospel, and therefore, while they have 
many interesting traits of character, are cruel to their old 
men and women. The women are compelled to do all the 
work — the men only hunt and go to war. Having but few 
horses, when they journey, they place burdens upon the 
aged men and women, and even upon the blind and lame — 
and upon their dogs. I did not see among them a single 
person having any natural deformity, nor any one who ap- 
peared to be deficient in common sense. 

July 9th. To-day Big Ax came to my tent and sat by 
me a long time. Never did I so much wish to converse 
with any man and tell him about the Saviour ; from the 
expression of his countenance, I thought he desired to be 
instructed. But the gift of tongues was not imparted to 
me, and we could only converse with the language of signs, 
which is far more intelligible than I had anticipated. 

Capt. Fontenelle, by a large present, purchased of the 
Indians the privilege of going on to-morrow without them. 
Our men could hardly have been kept in subordination, if 
they had not consented. 

Towards the night of the 10th, we had an unusual storm 
of thunder, hail, rain, and wind. The horses and mules 
could not be controlled, and turned and fled in all direc- 
tions. The whole caravan was scattered over the prairie; 
but when the storm abated, they were again collected 
without much difficulty, and nothing was lost. If any 
hostile band of Indians had been about us, it would have 
been easy for them to have made us a prey. But the 
Lord not only rode upon the storm, but was also near for 
our defense. The scene was alarming, and yet grand — 
sublime. 

Sabbath, 12th. We are in a land of dangers, but God 
is our preserver ; how desirable it is, that his mercies 



ATTEMPT TO MURDER. 57 

should be had in grateful remembrance, and that the por- 
tion of time, which he has set apart as holy, should be ob- 
served as such. The caravan traveled a part of the day, 
but were under the necessity of stopping in consequence of 
rain, which wet their packages. It is worthy of notice 
that various providences have thus far prevented them 
from traveling much upon the Sabbath. But this day has 
been one of great confusion and wickedness. In conse- 
quence of the men being drenched with rain, W T hiskey was 
dealt' out freely, to keep them from taking cold. Most of 
them became much excited, and one, who took an active 
part in killing Garrio, stabbed a man, with full intent to 
have pierced his heart ; but the knife, striking a rib, turned 
aside and only made a deep flesh wound. 

I think I know the feelings of David, when he expressed 
a strong desire after the sanctuary of God, and to dwell in 
his tabernacle. 

July 13th. We are not traveling through forests, nor 
a solitary desert, but through almost boundless meadows, 
that have the appearance of being under good cultivation. 
We see no fields of grain, nor habitations of civilized men, 
but meadows adorned with a great variety of plants, some 
of which appeared to be gregarious. Often, acres are di- 
versified with a great variety of colors and species. 

There are two species of plants which are said to be a 
sovereign remedy for the poison of the rattle-snake, the 
virtues of one of which we had an opportunity of testing. 
One of our men was bitten in the foot, and, before we 
knew it, the poison had so far progressed, that both the 
foot and leg had become much inflamed and very painful. 
One of these plants was applied to the parts affected, and 
at once the man was convalescent, and, in a few hours, 
well. The leaves of the plant resemble those of the blue 
flag, except that they are serrated. The healing proper- 



58 BUFFALO. 

ties are contained in the roots, which are bruised and ap- 
plied to the affected parts. Rattle-snakes are not numer- 
ous. These and other reptiles, are prevented from multi- 
plying, by the fires which every year run over the prai- 
ries. 

On the 14th, the announcement of buffalo spread cheer- 
fulness and animation through the whole caravan, and to 
men whose very life now depended on procuring game,-it 
was no indifferent event. From the immense herds of 
these wild animals, dispersed over the beautiful fields of 
nature, we were to derive our subsistence. Although sev- 
eral were seen to day, yet our hunters were not success- 
ful in obtaining many. 

I had heard of the prairie horse-fly, but was not aware 
that it would be so very annoying and even tormenting to 
our horses. Its bite is like the thrust of the point of a lan- 
cet, and when the fly is surfeited, or is brushed off, the 
blood gushes out. When the caravan is in close compa- 
ny, there being about two hundred horses and mules, the 
number of the flies are so divided that they are more toler- 
able ; but when for any purpose a horse is separated from 
the company, he is severely bitten by them. On one oc- 
casion, when I rode forward to find a crossing place over 
a deep muddy stream of water, ihey came around my horse 
in such swarms that he became frantic, and I was obliged 
to return in full speed. I have no doubt that a horse left 
alone in the season of these flies would be killed by them. 
The next day we journeyed as usual, and about noon 
arrived at the Forks of the Platte. We saw a large herd 
of buffalo, from which we obtained a good supply of ex- 
cellent meat. These animals, with their shaggy shoulders, 
neck, and heads, make a very majestic appearance, anil if 
their natures were unknown, would be terrific. But they 
are timid and inoffensive, showing no disposition to injure 



ARICKARA INDIANS. 59 

any person, except in self-defense when wounded and 
closely pursued. Their strength is great ; and, although 
they look clumsy, they run very swiftly. It requires a 
horse of more than ordinary speed, to outrun them for any 
conside: able time. 

The section of country about the Forks of the Platte is 
very pleasant, without any high mountains in sight; but 
at a distance beyond the widely extended rich bottom « 
lan<Is, bluffs of various forms present a picturesque scene- 
ry. The entire absence of forests in the large space of 
country around, is a deficiency which cannot be easily re- 
medied ; but probably forest trees might be cultivated to 
advantage. Is it not highly probable that mineral coal 
will be found here, as well as upon the prairies in the wes- 
tern states ? We found no wood yesterday, nor to-day, 
and probably shall not for some days to come ; and there- 
fore we have been under the necessity of making our fires 
with the dry dung of the buffalo. The most thoroughly 
weather-beaten is selected, and proves to be a better sub- 
stitute for common fuel than we had anticipated. Al- 
though we are now where we had fears of finding: the 
Arickara Indians, the death of whose chief has been men- 
tioned, and who have been residing near this place for 
several months past, yet we have seen no Indians since we 
left the Pawnees. It is supposed they have gone far up 
the south Fork of the Platte, to avoid the United States 
dragoons, under command of Col. Dodge, who are on their 
way to call them to account for their conduct towards 
white men, and to form with them a treaty of peace, al- 
though they are not fond of treaties when peace is to be 
observed by only one of the parties. They intend to keep 
out of the way of the dragoons, and therefore we hope to 
pass unmolested. 

We took our eourse up the north-west Fork of the Platte, 



60 * DEFENSIVE PREPARATIONS. 

and towards night encamped upon its bank in our usual 
form, using particular caution to be prepared for an attack 
of the Arickaras, should any of their war parties be about 
us. Every man was required to see that his rifle was in 
order, and to have a good supply of powder and balls. We 
all slept with our clothes on, so that, if called by the sen- 
tinel's fire, we might in less tharl a moment be ready for 
action ; but the night passed away in quietude, and at the 
first breaking of the day we were awakened by the cus- 
tomary call of the guide. 

We saw, on the 16th, the buffalo in greater numbers, 
and nearer than previously. They are less shy than those 
we first found. They are more majestic than the elk, but 
less beautiful. The antelopes, some of which we have 
seen for several days past, are becoming very numerous, 
and their speed exceeds that of any animal I have ever 
seen. Our hounds can do nothing in giving them the chase; 
for the dogs are so soon left far in the rear, that they do not 
follow more than ten or twenty rods, before they return, 
looking ashamed of their defeat. Our hunters occasionally 
take some by coming upon them by stealth. When they 
are surprised, they start forward a very small space, then 
turn, and with high lifted heads, stare for a few seconds at 
the object which has alarmed them, and then, with a half 
whistling snuff, bound off, seeming to be as much upon 
wings as upon feet. They resemble the goat, but are far 
more beautiful. Though they are of different colors, yet 
they are generally red, and have a large, fine, prominent 
eye. Their flesh is good for fjod, and about equal to 
venison. 

July 17th. W T e did not go on our way as early this morn- 
ing as usual, having been detained by breaking an axle- 
tree of one of our wagons. The country is becoming more 
hilly, and the bluffs in some places come down to ihe river* 



SHOOTING BUFFALO. 61 

Herds of buffalo are seen in almost every direction, and 
they are so numerous, that our animals find scanty pasture. 
The thermometer stood at noon at 88°. Encamped a lit- 
tle below Cedar bluffs, so called from the few cedars scat- 
tered over them, which promise a better supply of fuel. 

Commenced our journey on the 18th, at our usual early 
hour, to travel on until near noon before breakfast. From 
the change of vegetation of various kinds, and birds, &c. 
it is evident we are ascending into higher regions of coun- 
try, and an atmosphere more resembling that of the New 
England States. As Ave advance, the flowering plants are 
becoming less numerous ; and although the middle of the 
day is very warm, yet the nights and mornings are more 
cool. The ascent is so gradual, that the change is not 
perceptible. Rocks begin to appear, and still we are far 
from the Rocky Mountains. Limestone of light brown 
color is found in bluffs, laying in horizontal strata, which 
might be easily worked and to any extent. Very small 
black gnats, hardly discernible by the naked eye, have 
been numerous and very annoying, and for several days 
we rode with silk handkerchiefs closely tied over our faces 
to protect us from their poisonous bite. 

July 20th. Thousands of buffalo were seen to-day, and 
our men amused themselves with chasing and shooting at 
them ; but it was w r ell for the buffalo that they made poor 
shots. I can hardly reconcile it with a good ccnscience, 
to trifle with the life even of the most insignificant animals, 
yet for once, I felt myself powerfully inclined to try my 
horse in the chase. The noble creature enjoyed the sport, 
and would have rushed fearlessly into the midst of them, 
had I not held him in check. At that time, not being suf- 
ficiently acquainted with this species of amusement, and 
intending to make sure of my victim, I dismounted in order 
to take a more steady aim than I could otherwise have 



62 BADGERS PRAIRIE DOGS. 

done; and by so doing, as our guide afterwards informed 
ire, placed myself in imminent danger ; for the animal, 
when wounded, ofl en turns upon his antagonist to retaliate 
his injuries. Fortunately, though I wounded one, he did 
not rise upon me, and I returned to the caravan uncon- 
scious of danger. 

Badgers inhabit this part of the country, and from the 
many holes, which they dig in the ground for their dwell- 
ings, they must be very numerous, though we have seen 
only a few, and have killed but one. They keep near their 
burrows, and run into them on the least approach of dan- 
ger. The badger is of the genus ursus, about the size of 
the marmot, or what is often called the woodchuck, of a 
silvery gray color, with short legs, and its whole aspect 
is interesting. I did not have an opportunity to learn 
many of its habits. A small animal called the prairie dog, 
abounds in this section of country. It takes its name, not 
from its appearance, but from its barking, which is like 
that of a very small dog. It is of a brown color, and its 
fur is of superior fineness. It is very shy and difficult to 
be taken. Was it not for this last circumstance, I should 
think it might be an important article of traffic. 

We passed, on the 21st, many uncommonly interesting 
bluffs composed of indurated clay, situated on a wide spread 
plain ; many of them very high, with perpendicular sides, 
and of almost every imaginable form. Some appeared like 
strong fortifications with high citadels ; some like stately 
edifices with lofty towers. I had never before seen any 
thing like them of clay formation. And what adds to 
their beauty is, that the clay of which they are composed, 
is nearly white. Such is the smoothness and whiteness of 
the perpendicular sides and offsets ; and such the regularity 
of their straight and curved lines, tbat one can hardly be- 
lieve that they are not the work of ait. 






THE OLD CASTLE. 63 

It was a very warm day. The thermometer stood at 
noon, at 90°, and at 5 o'clock, P. M. at 100°. There 
were no prairie winds as usual. Almost. every day, winds 
blow over the prairies like sea breezes, or trade winds. 
They generally commence about eight in the morning, and 
continue through the day. These winds render the travel- 
ing comfortable, although the thermometer may range high. 
We encamped to-day in the neighborhood of a great 
natural curiosity, which for the sake of a name I shall call 
the old castle. It is situated upon the south side of the 
Platte, on a Plain, some miles distant from any elevated 
land, and covers more than an acre of ground, and is more 
than fifty feet high. It has, at the distance of the width 
of the river, all the appearance of an old, enormous, build- 
ing, somewhat dilapidated ; but still you see the standing 
walls, the roof, the turrets, embrasures, the dome, and al- 
most the very windows ; and large guard-houses, star ding 
some rods in front of the main building. You uncon- 
sciously look around for the enclosures, but they are all 
swept away by the lapse of time — for the inhabitants, but 
they have disappeared ; all is silent and solitary. Although 
you correct your imagination, and call to remembrance, 
that you are beholding the work of nature, yet before you 
are aware, the illusion takes you again, and your curiosity 
is excited to know who built this fabric, and what has be- 
come of the by-gone generations. I found it impossible to 
divest myself of such impressions. The longer and the 
more minutely I examined it, the more I saw to admire ; 
and it reminded me of those descriptions of power and 
grandeur in ruins, which enliven the pages of European 
tourists. 

Encamped at noon of the 22d, near another of nature's 
wonders. It has been called the chimney ; but 1 should 



64 BEAGON HILL. 

say, it ought to be called beacon hill, from its resemblance 
to what, was beacon hill in Boston. Being anxious to 
have a near view, although in a land of dangers, I con- 
cluded to take an assistant and pass over the river to it. 
The river where we crossed was about a. mile wide, 
shallow and full of quicksand, but we passed it with- 
out any great difficulty. We rode about three miles 
over a level plain and came to the base. The distance 
from the other side of the river did not appear more than 
a mile, so deceptive are distances over plains without any 
landmarks. This beacon hill has a conical base of about 
half n mile in circumference, and is one hundred and fifty 
feet in height; and above this is a perpendicular column, 
twelve feet square, and eighty feet high ; making the 
whole height about two hundred and thirty feet. We left 
our horses at the br.se, and ascended to the perpendicular 
shaft. It is formed of indurated clay or marl, and some 
parts are petrified. It is of a light chocolate, or rufous 
color, in some parts white. Near the top were handsome 
stalactites, at which my assistant shot, and broke off some 
pieces ; I took a small specimen. We descended, and, 
having finished my survey, had just mounted our horses, 
when we saw two bands of buffalo, six or eight hundred 
in number, coming full speed towards us, taking their 
course down the river. We knew somebody must be pur- 
suing them, and as, from indications for two days past, 
we had suspected Indians near, we thought it would be 
safest for us to make and secure a speedy retreat to the 
caravan, and set off in haste for the river, which at the 
nearest point was two miles distant. Very soon we saw 
a man on horseback coming rapidly towards us — he 
stopped and gave a signal for others behind him to hasten 
on, and at once we saw a band of men coming full rush. 



65 

We put our horses to their utmost speed, and when we 
thought our. retreat to the river fully secured, we stopped 
and took an observation with a large spy-glass, which we 
had taken the precaution to have with us, and found they 
were white men, who had come from a fort of the Ameri- 
can Fur Company at the Black Hills, to meet the caravan. 
Mr. Fontenelle, the commander of the caravan, saw the 
movement, was alarmed for our safety, and came out in all 
haste, with a number of armed men to our assistance. But 
all resulted in friends meeting friends. There were some 
Ogallallah Indians near us, who came to our camp in the 
evening. Thermometer 90°. 

On the 23d, after traveling a few miles, we encamped 
near Scott's bluffs. These are the termination of a high 
range of land running from south to north. They are very 
near the river, high and abrupt, and what is worthy of no- 
tice, there is a pass through the range a short distance 
back from the river, the width of a common road, with 
perpendicular sides two or three hundred feet high. It 
appears as though a part of the bluffs had been cut off, 
and moved a few rods to the north. Instead of journeying, 
the naturalist would desire weeks to examine the interest- 
ing scenery of this section of country, and the more minute 
his examination, the more would he find to gratify his cu- 
riosity. 

This whole country appears to abound in magnesia, so 
that epsom salts are found in almost every part ; in some 
places are large quantities in a crystalized state. Our 
horses and mules were disposed to make these a substitute 
for common salt. Thermometer to-day stood at 90°. 

While we were encamped at noon of the 24th, and our 
horses and mules were turned out under guard, and we 
were preparing our breakfast, or what should be dinner^ 



66 THE OGALLALLAHS. 

we were alarmed with the call, "Secure your animals! 
secure your animals !" I looked around to discover the 
cause of the alarm, and saw, at about a mile and a half 
distance, some thirty or forty Indians coming on horse- 
back at full speed. We had not more than half se- 
cured our animals and prepared for defense, when the In- 
dians were close upon us ; whether friends or foes we 
could not tell, until they were nearly within rifle shot, 
when, according to the customary expression of friend- 
ship, they fired their guns into the air, and then rushed 
into our camp, and exchanged salutations of peace. They 
were Ogallallahs, headed by eight of their chiefs, clad in 
their war habiliments, and presenting somewhat of a ter- 
rific appearance. The chiefs dined with us, and were very 
talkative among themselves; for, not having any good 
interpreter, we could not join in conversation with them. 
Every thing, however went on pleasantly, and to mutual 
satisfaction. They told us their whole village was only a 
few hours' travel ahead of us, going to the Black Hills for 
the purpose of trading. 

On the 25th, the heat was very oppressive in the mid- 
dle of the day, as there was less wind than usual. Ther- 
mometer 92°. Towards evening, we came to the main 
village of the Ogallallahs, consisting of more than two 
thousand persons. These villages are not stationary, but 
move from place to place, as inclination or convenience 
may dictate. Their lodges are comfortable, and easily 
transported. They are constructed of eight or ten poles 
about eighteen feet long, set up in a circular form, the 
small ends fastened together, making an apex, and the 
large ends spread out, so as to enclose an area of about 
twenty feet in diameter. The whole is covered with their 
coarse skins, which are elk, or buffalo, taken when they 



A SABBATH AMONG THEM. 67 

are not good for robes. A fire is made in the centre, a 
hole being left in the top of the lodge for the smoke to pass 
out. All that they have for household furniture, clothing, 
and skins for beds, is deposited around according to their 
ideas of propriety and convenience. Generally not more 
than one family occupies a lodge. These are the finest 
looking Indians I have ever seen. The men are generally 
tall and well proportioned ; the women are trim, and less 
corpulent than is common among the Indian women, and 
all were w T ell dressed and cleanly. They came around us 
in multitudes, and manifested great curiosity to see what- 
ever we had. I did not know why, but my boots were 
particularly examined ; probably they had never seen any 
before, as moccasons are w T orn, not only by Indians, but 
also by traders and hunters. 

Sabbath, 26th. The caravan moved on a little way to 
the crossing place of the Platte, near Larama's fork in the 
Black Hills, and encamped for the day. This gave us an 
opportunity for reading and devotion. Some of the Ogal- 
lallahs came to my tent while I was reading the Bible, and 
observed me attentively, as though enquiring the reason 
why I was differently employed from others. I endeavor- 
ed to make them understand by the language of signs, that 
I was reading the book of God, which teaches us how to 
worship him. After spending some time in teaching them 
to read, and how God is to be worshiped, I sung a hymn, 
which greatly interested them. They took me by the hand, 
and the expression of their countenance seemed to say, 
we want to know whit all this means. My spirit w T as 
pained within me, and I anxiously desired to understand 
their language, that I might tell them about Christ, the 
only Saviour. The enquiry arose forcibly in my mind, 
why will not some of the nfany Christian young men of 



68 BLACK HILLS. 

the east, exercise so much self-denial, as to come and teach 
them the way of salvation 1 What Christian would not 
glory in such labor ? And if there should be any trials 
attendant on the enterprise, would they not, like St. Paul, 
glory in tribulations ? 

At evening, we passed over the Platte, and went a mile 
and a half up to the fort of the Black Hills, and encamped 
near the fort in our usual form. 



BLACK HILLS. 69 



CHAPTER IV. 

Black Hills — day of indulgence — buffalo dance — the desire of Indians 
for instruction — met the chiefs in council — re-commenced our jour- 
ney for rendezvous — anthracite coal — species of wormwood — Red 
Bute — traces of grizzly bears — geoFogy — Rock Independence — 
Rocky Mountains — perpetual snow — valley through the mountains — 
" thunder spirits' 7 gone — an alarm — waters of the Colorado. 

The Black Hills do not derive their name from any 
thing peculiar in the color of the soil and rocks of which 
they are composed, but are so called from being covered 
with shrubby cedars, which give them a dark appearance 
when seen at a distance. The alluvial soil upon the riv- 
ers and in the valleys is very good, but upon the higher 
lands and hills, it is thin and rather barren, and in many 
parts full of stones, which are worn smooth by the action 
of water, and are of various kinds and forms. One spur 
of the Rocky Mountains is seen from this place, which is 
forty or fifty miles distant, and is probably five thousand 
feet high. 

At this place the caravan halted, and according to im- 
memorial usage, the men were allowed a "day of indul- 
gence," as it is called, in which they drink ardent spirits 
as much as they please, and conduct as they choose. Not 
unfrequently the day terminates with a catastrophe of some 
kind, and to-day one of the company shot another with 
the full intention to have killed him. The ball entered 
the back, and came out at the side. The wounded man 
exclaimed, " I am a dead man ;" but after a pause, said, 
"No, I am not hurt." The other immediately seized a rifle 



70 BUFFALO DANCE. 

to finish the work, hut was prevented hy the bystanders, 
who wrested it from him and discharged it into the air. 

July 28th. The day of indulgence being past, a quiet 
day succeeded. The exhilaration was followed by conse- 
quent relaxation, and the tide of spirits which arose so 
high yesterday, ebbed to-day proportionally low. The 
men were seen lounging about in listless idleness, and 
could scarcely be roused to the business of making repairs 
and arrangements for the long journey yet before us. The 
Indians were active, and manifested a disposition to be so- 
ciable and kind, and also to open a trade with us in vari- 
ous articles, such as moccasons, belts, and dressed skins ; 
and desired in return, knives, awls, combs, vermilion, &c. 

Although the nights were cool, yet the thermometer 
stood in the middle of the day at 9S°, but the heat was 
relieved by the usual prairie winds. 

On the 29th, the Oga'lallah Indians who accompanied 
us, had a buffalo and a dog dance, the real object of which 
I could not satisfactorily ascertain. Whether it was from 
some superstitious notion that their success in hunting de- 
pended on these rites, or whether the custom originated in 
the gratitude of their hearts for past successes, or more pro- 
bably as an amusement, or neither, I cannot tell. I wit- 
nessed the first mentioned ceremony. In the buffalo dance, 
a large number of young men, dressed with the skins of 
the neck and head of buffalos with their horns on, moved 
round in a dancing march. They shook their heads, imi- 
tated the low bellowing of the buffalo, wheeled, and jumped. 
At the same time men and women sung a song, accom- 
panied with the beating of a sort of drum. I cannot say 
I was much amused to see how well they could imitate 
brute beasts, while ignorant of God and salvation. The 
impressive enquiry was constantly on my mind, what will 
become of their immortal spirits ? Rational men imitating 



THE OGALLALLAHS. 71 

beasts, and old gray-headed men marshaling the dance ! 
and enlightened white men encouraging it by giving them 
intoxicating spirits, as a reward for their good performance. 
I soon retired, and was pleased to find that only a small 
number of the Indians took any part in the dance. 

An Indian whom I attempted to teach last Sabbath, 
came to me again to-day, accompanied by others and mani- 
fested a desire that I should again instruct him. I endeav- 
ored to communicate to his mind some ideas of God, and 
sang the hymn, " Watchman, tell us of the night." He 
and those with him, shook hands with me as a token of 
their satisfaction, and left me. He soon returned, howev- 
er, bringing others, that they too, might hear what he had 
heard with so much apparent pleasure, and they again 
shook hands with me. This was several times repeated. 
These Indians appear not only friendly to white men, but 
kind in their intercourse with each other, and in no in- 
stance did I witness any quarrels among them. Their 
minds are uncommonly gifted and noble, their persons are 
finely formed, and many of them are truly " nature's no- 
blemen." The women are graceful, and their voices are 
soft and expressive. I was agreeably surprised to see tall 
young chiefs, well dressed in their own mode, walking 
arm in arm with their ladies. This is what I had not ex- 
pected to see among those whom we term " savages." It 
is true that they are heathen in all the guilt of sin, and 
destitute of the knowledge of God and the hopes of the 
gospel, but in politeness and decency, as well as in many 
other respects, they are very unlike the frontier Indians, who 
have been corrupted and degraded by their acquaintance 
with ardent spirits, and wicked white men. 

On the 30th, I met in council with the chiefs of this 
tribe, to lay before them the object of our tour, and to 
know if they would wish to have missionaries sent among 



72 ASCENDING THE MOUNTAINS. 

them to teach them to read and write, and especially how 
to worship God. They expressed much satisfaction with 
the proposal, and said they would do all they could to 
make their condition comfortable. There can be no doubt, 
that this community of the Sioux would be a promising 
field for laborers. They are inquisitive, and their language 
is distinct and sonorous. 

On the 31st, thermometer stood at 81°. 
August 1st. At half past eight in the morning, we re- 
commenced our journey, and the next point to which we 
directed our course is across the Rocky Mountains, where 
the general rendezvous will be held. Our wagons were left 
at the fort ot the Black Hills, and all our goods were packed 
upon mules. Several of our company went out into vari- 
ous parts of the country to hunt and trap, but as many 
more joined us for the mountains, so that our number is 
not diminished. Mr. Fontenelle stopped at the fort, and 
Mr. Fitz Patrick took his place in charge of the caravan. 
We had received during our journey to this place, many 
kind attentions from Mr. F., as well as the privilege of tra- 
veling under his protection, for which we offered him a re- 
muneration, but he declined it, saying, " If any one is in- 
debted, it is myself, for you have saved my life, and the 
lives of my men." t We shall gratefully remember their 
kindness. 

Sabbath, 2nd. I enjoyed some opportunities for devo- 
tional exercises, but felt the loss of the privileges of God's 
sanctuary. 

We found on the 3rd, but very little grass for our horses 
and mules, owing to three causes ; the sterility of the soil, 
the proximity of the snow-topped mountains, and the gra- 
zing of numerous herds of buffalos and antelopes. To 
save distance in following the bends of the river, we passed 
to-day over rough and somewhat dangerous precipices. I 



ANTHRACITE COAL. 



73 



had found, before I arrived at the Black Hills, some loose 
specimens of anthracite coal on the banks of streams, but 
to-day I found a regular "cropping out" of coal, the same 
to all appearances as I have seen in the coal basins of 
Pennsylvania. The existence of a coal basin here is also 
confirmed by indications of iron ore. Certainly an invalua- 
ble substance, should it prove abundant, to the future in- 
habitants of a country so destitute of other fuel. This was 
the fiist discovery of coal in this region. A range of 
mountains, a spur of which is seen from Larama's fork ina 
the Black Hills, runs parallel with the river, ten or fifteen 
miles distant, and some of the peaks are very high. 

August 4th. The country was more level and fertile. 
I discovered more anthracite, indicating large quantities; 
also, in one place, yellow sand si one of remarkably fine 
texture. It undoubtedly would answer an excellent pur- 
pose for polishing metals. A species of wormwood grows 
in great quantities in this region, where the soil is gravelly 
and barren. Some of it grows eight or ten feet high, and 
four or five inches in diameter, and is an obstruction to 
traveling. It is generally called wild sage. Scarcely any 
animal will taste it, unless compelled by extreme hunger. 
The prairie hen, however, crops the buds or leaves, which 
render its flesh bitter and unpalatable for food. I saw 
some granite to-day of a dark gray color, like the granite 
in parts of the Atlantic states. What I had seen before 
in boulders was of the red cast, like that which is found 
about Lake Superior. 

On the 5th, we arose at the first breaking of the day, 
and proceeded on our route, making forced marches through 
this barren region. Encamped towards night at a place 
called the Red Bute, which is a high bluff of land, re- 
sembling red ochre in color, but composed of clay some- 
what indurated and argillaceous sand-stone. This is a 
4 



74 GRIZZLY BEARS. 

central place for Indians traveling east or west, north or 
south. Here the north-west branch of the Platte, along 
which we have been traveling, comes from a southern 
direction, the head of which is about one hundred and 
fifty miles distant. From the Red Bute we pass over to 
the Sweetwater, a branch of the Platte, which comes from 
the west. We saw, to-day, tracks of grizzly bears, which 
were perfectly fresh, and were indicative of their formida- 
ble size and strength. One, with two large cubs, passed 
out of some gooseberry and currant bushes near the river, 
as we proceeded around to an open spot of ground for an 
encamping place. Lieut. S. of the dragoons, a man of 
undoubted veracity, told me he saw several buffalos passing 
near some bushes, where a grizzly bear lay concealed, and 
the bear with one stroke tore three ribs from a buffalo and 
laid it dead. It has been said, if you meet one of these bears, 
you must either kill him, or be killed ; but this is not true, 
unless you come upon them suddenly, or wound them. If 
you let them pass off unmolested, they will, in most cases, 
withdraw, showing that the fear of man is upon them as 
well as upon other beasts. 

August 6th. The geology of these regions is becoming 
more interesting, as we approach the mountains. I saw 
to-day, not only granite in situ, but also a quantity of the 
most beautiful serpentine I ever beheld. It was semi 
transparent and of a deep green hue, very much resembling 
specimens of emerald which I saw in the mineralogical 
cabinet at New Haven. I regretted the necessity which 
a long journey, yet before me, imposed of passing by op- 
portunities for making collections. 

Passed Rock Independence, on the 7th. This is the 
first massive rock of that stupendous chain of mountains, 
which divides North America, and forms, together with 
its barrens on each side, a natural division. This rock 



ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 75 

takes its name from the circumstance of a company of fur 
traders suspending their journey, and here observing, in 
due form, the anniversary of our national freedom. It is 
an immensely huge rock of solid granite, entirely bare, and 
covering several acres. Advancing a little distance, we 
came to a stream of no inconsiderable size, which has its 
origin in the mountains, and to which the name of Sweet- 
water has been given on account of its purity. We fol- 
lowed up the course of this river for several days. In one 
place it passes a small branch of the mountains, through 
a narrow chasm only thirty or forty feet wide, and more 
than three hundred feet deep. The caravan passed around 
the point of this mountain, and to obtain a better prospect 
of this natural curiosity, I left them and rode to it. A 
deep- toned roar is heard as the river dashes its way through 
the rocky passage. The sight is soon intercepted by its 
winding course, and the darkness caused by the narrow- 
ness and deepness of the avenue. 

We passed, to-day, several small lakes of crystalized ep- 
Fom salt, from which the water in the drouth of summer is 
evaporated. I rode into one of them to examine the quality 
and depth, but finding my horse sinking as in quicksand, 
I was glad to make a safe retreat. Whatever may be 
beneath, whether salt in a less solid state than on the sur- 
face, or quicksand, yet large quantities of good quality 
might be easily collected. 

The mountains are indeed rocky mountains. They are 
rocks heaped upon rocks, with no vegetation, except a 
few cedars growing out of the crevices near their base. 
Their tops are covered with perpetual snow, which are- 
seen on our left and before us. As we advanced, the at- 
mosphere was increasingly more chilling through the night 
and most of the day, except the middle, which to-day was 
very warm ; the thermometer standing at 84°. 



76 APPROACH TO THE MOUNTAINS. 

Sabbalb, 9th. I endeavored to supply the absence of 
the privileges of the sanctuary and its ordinances, as well 
as I could by read ng, and recalling to mind portions of 
the scriptures, hymns, and the doctrines of our excellent, 
but neglected catechism. One net ds to be on heathen 
ground to realize the solitariness of absence from the social 
worship, where 

" The cheerful songs and solemn vows 
Make their communion sweet." 

On the 10th, cold winds w T ere felt from the snow-topped 
mountains to an uncomfortable degree. The passage 
throigh these mountains is in a valley, so gradual in the 
ascent and descent, that 1 should not have known we 
were approaching them, had it not been that as. we ad- 
vanced the atmosphere gradually became cooler, and at 
length we saw the perpetual snows upon our right hand 
and upon our left, elevated many thousand feet above us — 
in some places ten or twelve thousand. The highest parts 
of the mountains are found by measurement, to be eigh- 
teen thousand feet above the level of the sea.* This val- 
ley was not discovered until some years since. Mr. Hunt 
and his party, more than twenty year.- ago, went near, but 
did not find it, though in search of some favorable passage. 
It varies in width fiom two to fifteen miles; and foil* w- 
ing its i ourse, the distance through the mountains is abent 
one hundred miles, or four days' journey. Though there 
are some elevations and depressions in this valley, yet 
comparatively speaking, it is level ; and the summit, where 
the waters divide which flow into the At'antic and into 
the Pacific, is about six thousand feet aLo%e the level of 



*M\ P ; >tiglas, an Ei*gt*sh nitu-alist, wh > spent much rime west (if 
thes ; mountains, and measured some of ihe highest points, two hun- 
dred or more m"e ; north of this valley, estimated them at eighteen thou- 
sand feet above the level of the ocean. 



THUNDER SPIRITS DEPARTED. 77 

the ocean. There would be no difficulty in ihe way of 
const: ucting a rail-road fiom the- Atlantic to the Pacific 
ocean. There is no greater difficulty, in the whole dis- 
tance, than has already been oveicome in passing the 
Green mountains, between Boston and Albany ; ami piob- 
ably the time may not be far distant, when trips will be 
made across the continent, as they have been made to the 
Niagara Palls, to see nature's wonders. 

In parsing the Black Hills and the Rocky Mountains we 
heard none of those '* successive reports resembling the 
discharge of several pieces of artillery," mentioned by 
some authors as common " in the most calm and serene 
weather, at all times of the day or night :" nor did we 
v itness " lightning and thunder, pealing from clouds gath- 
ering round the summits of the hills" or mountains. " The 
thunder spirits, who fabricate storms and tempests," ap- 
pear to have closed their labors, and the Indian tribes no 
longer " hang offerings on the trees to propitiate the invi- 
sible lords of the mountains." 

The geology presents some variety ; for while the main 
ridge of the mountains is granite, yet, to-day, parallel 
ridges of red secondary Sandstone have abounded. They 
appear to have been affected by heat ; and some elevating 
force has broken them into dyke-like ridges at different 
distances from each other, running from east-north-east, to 
west-south-west. The strata are mostly vertical, but some 
have a slight dip to the south. 

We had an alarm, while we were encamped for noon, 
and the men were called to arms. They all rus'ied forth 
full of courage, rather stimulated than appalled by danger. 
Only one Indian made his appearance upon the hill at the 
foot of which we were encamped. This was taken as an 
indication that others were near, which was the fact 3 but 
he and they retreated. 



78 BIG SANDY RIVER. 

August 11th. The last night was very cold — we had 
a heavy frost with ice. A little before sunrise, the ther- 
mometer stood at 24°. Our early morning ride was not 
very comfortable for myself, and less so for some of our 
men who were not furnished with over-coats. Our horses 
and mules began to show that constant labor without suf- 
ficient food, was not favorable to strength, and some of 
them failed. To-day we came to the Big Sandy river, 
one of the upper branches of the Colorado, which empties 
into the gulf of California. Along its bank are some 
Norway and pitch pine, and a very few small white pines, 
and clumps of common poplar. In some of the low vales 
there were beautiful little fresh roses, which bloomed 
amidst the desolations around. "How ornamental are 
the works of nature ! She seems to decorate them all, as 
if each spot was a garden, in which God might perchance 
walk, as once in Eden." 



THE RENDEZVOUS. 79 



CHAPTER V. 

Arrive at rendezvous — trappers and hunters — four Indian nations — 
Flatheads and Nez Perces, no reason why so called — surgical opera- 
tions — an interview with the Flathead, and. Nez Perce chiefs — their 
anxiety for religious instruction — return of Doct. Whitman — Sho- 
shones and. Utaws — mountain life. 

. After stopping for the night upon the New Fork, a 
branch of Green river, we arose on the 12th, at the first 
breaking of the day, and continued our forced marches 
Although we were emerging from the mountains, yet 
peaks covered with perpetual snow were seen in almost 
every direction, and the temperature of the air was un- 
comfortably cold. I found to-day some beautiful calce- 
dony, of which I took a specimen, and also green stone, 
quartz, and trap in large quantities. In the afternoon, we 
came to the Green river, a branch of the Colorado, in lati- 
tude 42° 50', where the caravan hold their rendezvous. 
This is a widely extended, pleasant valley, with a soil suffi- 
ciently fertile for cultivation, if the climate was not so 
cold. Like the country we have passed through, it is 
almost entirely prairie, with some woods skirting the 
streams of water. 

The American Fur Company have between two and 
three hundred men constantly in and about the moun- 
tains, engaged in trading, hunting and trapping. These 
all assemble at rendezvous upon the arrival of the caravar, 
bring in their furs, and take new supplies for the coming 
year, of clothing, ammunition, and goods for trade with 



80 SURGICAL OPERATIONS. 

the Indians. But few of these men ever return to their 
country and friends. Most of them are constantly in debt 
to the company, and are unwilling to return without a 
fortune; and year after year passes away, while they are 
hoping in vain for better success. 

Here were assembled many Indians belonging to four 
different nations ; the Utaws, Shoshones, Nez Perces, and 
Flatheads, who were waiting for the caravan, to exchange 
furs, horses, and dressed skins, for various articles of mer- 
chandize. I was disappointed to see nothing peculiar in 
the Flat Head Indians to give them their name. Who 
gave it them, or for what reason, is not known. The 
name given them by the Nez Perces, which is Sailep, does 
not signify flathead. Some suppose it was given them in 
derision for not flattening their heads, as the Chenooks 
and some other nations do, near the shores of the Pacific. 
It may be so, but how will those who indulge this imagi- 
nation, account for the Nez Perces being so called, since 
they do not pierce their noses ? This name could not be 
given them in derision, because those near the Pacific, 
who flatten their heads also pierce their noses. That those 
names have been given by white men, is evident, since 
they do not call each other by the names which signify 
either flathead or pierced nose. 

While we continued in this place, Doct. Whitman was 
called to perform some very important surgical opeiations. 
!He extracted an iron arrow, three inches long, from the 
back of Capt Bridger, which was received in a skirmish, 
three years before, with the Blackfeet Indians. It was a 
difficult operation, because the arrow was hooked at the 
point by striking a large bone, and a cartilaginous sub- 
stance had grown around it. The Doctor pursued the 
operation with great self-possession and perseverance; 



AN INTERVIEW WITH THE CHIEFS. 81 

and bis patient manifested equal firmness. The Indians 
looked on meanwhile with countenances indicating won- 
der, and in their own peculiar manner expressed great as- 
tonishment when it was extracted. The Doctor also ex- 
tracted another arrow from the shoulder of one the hun- 
ters, which had Ijeen there two years and a half. His 
reputation becoming favorably established, calls for medi- 
cal and surgical aid were almost incessant. 

After spending a few days in collecting and digesting 
information in regard to this country, and the condition of 
the people, we had an interesting interview with the chiefs 
of the Nez Perees and Flatheads, and laid before them the 
object of our appointment, and explained to them the be-, 
nevolent desires of Christians concerning them. We then 
enquired whether they wished to have teachers come 
among them, and instruct them in the knowledge of God, 
his worship, and the way to be saved ; and what they 
would do to aid them in their labors. The oldest ehief 
of theFlatheads arose, and said, " he was old, and did not 
expect to know much more; he was deaf and could not 
hear, but his heart was made glad, very glad, to see what 
he had never seen before, a man near to God," (meaning 
a minister of the gospel.) Next arose [nsala,the most in- 
fluential chief among the Flathead nation, and said ''he had 
heard, that a man near to God was coming to visit them, 
and he, with some of his people, together with some white 
men, went out three d.iys' journey to meet him, but failed 
of finding the caravan. A war party of Crow Indians 
came upon them in the night, and after a short battle, 
though no lives were lost, they took away some of their 
horses, and one from him wh eh he greatly loved, but now 
lie forge's all, his heart is made so glad to see a man near 

to God." 

4* 



82 dr. whitman's proposal. 

The first chief of the Nez Perces, Tai-quin-su-watish, 
arose, and said, " he had heard from white men a little 
about God, which had only gone into his ears ; he wished 
to know enough to have it go down into his heart; to in- 
fluence his life, and teach his people." Others spoke to 
the same import, and they all made as many promises as 
we could desire. 

The Nez Perces and Flathead Indians present a promi- 
sing field for missionary labor, white for the harvest, and 
the indications of divine providence in regard to it are 
made plain, by their anxiety to obtain Christian knowledge. 
Taking the various circumstances under deliberate and 
prayerful consideration, in regard to these Indians, we 
came to the conclusion, that, though many other important 
stations might be found, this would be one. So desirable 
did this object appear, that Dr. Whitman proposed to re- 
turn with the caravan, and obtain associates to come out 
with him the next year, with the then returning caravan, 
and establish a mission among these people, and by so 
doing, save at least a year, in bringing the gospel among 
them. In view of the importance of the object, I readily 
consented to the proposal, and to go alone with the Indians 
the remainder of the exploring tour. Dr. Whitman, on 
further consideration, felt some misgivings about leaving 
me, lest, if any calamity should befall me, he should be 
blamed by the Christian public. I expressed my desire 
that no disquietude should be felt for me ; for w r e could 
not safely go together without divine protection, and with 
it I was secure in any situation. This confidence inspired 
me with all the courage I needed, and composed my mind 
in regard to coming dangers, as it had sustained me under 
those that were past. 

We met with the chiefs again by appointment, and I 



SHOSHONES. 83 

staled to them the contemplated return of Dr. Whitman. 
They were much pleased, and promised to assist me, and 
to send a convoy with me from their country to Fort 
Walla Walla, on the Columbia River. They selected 
one of their principal young men for my particular assis- 
tant, as long as I should have need of him, who was called 
Kentuc ; and I engaged a voyageur, who understood En- 
glish, and also the Nez Perce language sufficiently well 
to interpret common business, and some of the plain 
truths of our holy religion, to go with me while I should 
continue with these tribes. 

We did not call together the chiefs of the Shoshones 
and Utaws to propose to them the subject of missions, lest 
we should excite expectations which would not soon be 
fulfilled. We were the more cautious upon this subject, 
because it is difficult to make an Indian understand the 
difference between a proposal and a promise. The Sho- 
shones are a very numerous nation, and appear friendly. 
They are probably the most destitute of the necessaries of 
life of any Indians west of the mountains. Their country 
lies south-west of the south-east branch of the Columbia, 
and is said to be the most barren of any part of the coun- 
try in these western regions. They are often called 
Snakes and Root Diggers, from being driven to these re- 
sorts to sustain life ; and parts of the year they suffer 
greatly from hunger and cold. They are more squalid 
than any Indians I have seen ; but their poverty does not 
lessen their need of salvation through Christ. The Utaws 
are decent in appearance, and their country, which is 
toward Santa Fe, is said to be tolerably good. 

A few days after our arrival at the place of rendezvous, 
and when all the mountain men had assembled, another 
day of indulgence was granted to them, in which all re- 



84 MOUNTAIN LIFE. 

straint was laid aside. These days are the climax of the 
hunter's happiness. I will relate an occurrence which 
took place near evening, as a specimen of mountain hfe. 
A hunter, who goes technically by the name of the great 
bully of the mountains, mounted his horse with a loaded 
rifle, and challenged any Frenchman, American, Spaniard, 
or Dutchman to fight him in single combat. Kit d rson, 
an American, told him if he wished to die, he would accept 
the challenge. Shunar defied him. C. mounted his hoise, 
and with a loaded pistol, rushed into close contact, and 
both almost at the same instant fired. C.'s ball entered 
S.'s hand, came out at the wrist, and passed through the 
arm above the elbow. Shunar's ball p. ssed over the 
head of Carson ; and while he went for another pistol, 
Shunar begged that his life might be spared. Such 
scenes, sometimes from passion, and sometimes for amuse- 
ment, make ihe pastime of their wild and wandering life. 
They appear to have sought for a place where, as they 
would say, human nature is not oppressed by the tyranny 
of religion, and pleasure is not awed by the frown of vir- 
tue. 'J he fruits are visible in all the varied forms, which 
human nature, without the restraints of chil government, 
and cultivated, polished society, may be supp ised to pro- 
duce. In the absence of all those motives, which they 
would feel in moral and religious society, refinement, 
pride, a sense of the worth of character, and even con- 
science, give place to unrest ruined dissoluteness. Their 
toils, and privations are so great, that they more readily 
compensate themselves by plunging into such excesses, as 
in their mistaken judgment of things, seem most adapted 
to give them pleasure. They disdain the common-place 
phrases of pn fanity "which prevail among the impious 
vulgar in civilized countiies, and have many set phrazes, 



DEMORALIZING INFLUENCES. 85 

which they appear to have manufactured among them- 
selves, and which in their imprecations, they bring into 
almost every ser.tence and on all occasions. By varying 
the tones of their voices, they make them expressive of 
joy, hope, grief, and anger. In their broils among them- 
selves, which do not happen every day, they would not be 
ungenerous. They would see u fair play," and would 
" spare the last eye ;" and wou'd not tolerate murder, 
unless drunkenness or great provocation could be pleaded 
=in extenuation. 

Their demoralizing influence with the Indians has been 
lamentable, and they have practiced impositions upon 
them, in all the ways that sinful propensities dictate. It 
is said they have sold them packs of cards at high prices, 
calling them the Bible ; and have told them, if they 
should refuse to give white men wives, God would be an- 
gry with them and punish them eternally; and on almost 
any occasion when their wishes have been resisted, they 
have threatened them with the wrath of God. If these 
things are true in many instances, yet from personal ob- 
servation, I should believe their more common mode of 
accomplishing their wishes has been by flattery and pre- 
sents; for the mo>t of them squander away their wages 
in ornaments for their women and children. 

During our s r ay, I witnessed a scene of mourning, 
among the Shoshones, on the occasion of the death of a 
chief who was killed by ihe Rapahoes, the news of which 
had but just arrived. The women made loud lamenta- 
tions, cut and disfigured themselves, until the blood ran 
down their faces and scantily clad bodies. 

The Indians, with whom I am to travel, ha*, ing ap- 
pointed the 21st to commence the journey for their coun- 
try, a few days were occupied in writing to my family, 



86 FROSTY NIGHTS. 

the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Mis- 
sions, and other friends ; and also in making prepara- 
tions for my journey to Walla Walla. While we con- 
tinued in this place, though in the middle of the day it 
was warm, yet the nights were frosty, and ice was fre- 
quently formed. 



DEPARTURE OF DOCT. WHITMAN. 87 



CHAPTER VI. 

Part with my associate — arrive at head waters of the Co^mbia — kind- 
ness of the Indians — narrow defile — geology — Jackson's Hole — wild 
flax — trappers go out on a hunt — mountain prospect — Trois Tetons 
— danger from affrighted buffalo — Pierre's Hole — Volcanic chasm — 
children on horseback — interesting worship with the Indians — burial 
of a child — scarcity of food — a timely supply — Salmon river — expect- 
ed battle — geological observations — scene of mourning. 

August 21st, commenced our journey in company with 
Capt. Bridger, who goes with about fifty men, six or eight 
days' journey on our route. Instead of going down on the 
south-west side of Lewis' river, we concluded to take our 
course northerly for the Trois Tetons, which are three very 
high mountains, covered with perpetual snow, separated 
from the main chain of the Rocky Mountains, and are 
seen at a very great distance ; and trom thence to Salmon 
river. Went only about three miles from the place of 
rendezvous, and encamppd. 

On the 22d, I parted with Doct. Whitman, who returned 
to the caravan, and with them to the United States. My 
anxious desire was, that the Lord would go with him and 
make his way prosperous, and make him steadfast to the 
object of his return, until it should be accomplished ; and 
that, with next year's caravan, he might come with asso- 
ciates into this promising field, and with them reap a plen- 
tiful harvest. To-day we traveled twenty miles, through 
a somewhat barren country, and down several steep de- 
scents, and arrived at what is called Jackson's Hole, and 
encamped upon a small stream of water, one of the upper 



88 PUBLIC WORSHIP. 

branches of (lie Columbia river. It was interesting to find 
myself, for the first time, upon the waters of this noble 
river. The Indians were very attentive to all my wants 
— took the entire care of my packed animals, cooking, &c. 
They preserve particular order in their movements. The 
first chief leads the way, the next chiefs follow, then the 
common men, and after these the women and children. 
The place assigned me was with the first chief. 

Found some buffalo to-day, of which our men killed a 
small number. These furnished a timely supply, as our 
provisions were becoming scarce. The principal chief of 
the Flatheads kind .y furnished me with a horse to relieve 
mine. 

Sabbath, 23rd. Had an opportunity for rest and devo- 
tional exercises. In the afternoon we had public worship 
with those of the company who understood English. The 
me.i conducted with great propriety, and listened with 
attention. I did not feel any disposition to upbraid them for 
their sins, but endeavored affectionately to show them, that 
they are unfit for heaven, and that they could not be hap- 
py in the employments of that holy place, unless they 
should first experience a great moral change of heart by 
the grace of God, since the only source of happiness in 
heaven consists in serving and glorifying God forever. 
The place of our encampment was such as would natural- 
ly fill the mind with solemnity— just above a very deep 
anr! narrow defile which we had to pass, called by the 
hunters Kanyon. So high were the mountains, that some 
of them were tipped with perpetual snow, and so narrow 
the passage, that twilight shades obscured the view. The 
distance through must occupy more than half a day's 
journey. 

. Arose very early on the 24th, and commenced our way 
through the narrow dt^ilc, frequently crossing and re- 



A DANGEROUS PASS GEOLOGY. 89 

crossing a large stream of water which flows into the 
Snake river. The scenery is wild and in many parts 
sublime— mountains of rock, almost perpendicular, shoot- 
ing their heads up into the regions of perpetual snow, and 
in one place projecting over our path, if a zigzag trail 
can be called a path. Often we had to pass over the sides 
of mountains, which inclined at an angle of 45 D towards 
the stream of water below, and down which packed mules 
have fallen, and been dashed upon the rocks. I endea- 
vored to guide my Indian horse so cautiously that he be- 
came unmanageable, being resolved to have his own me- 
thod of choosing the way. I was under the necessity of 
dismounting and making the best of my way. But on far- 
ther acquaintance with Indian horses, I learned that their 
dashing mode of going ahead, even in dangerous places, 
was preferable to the most cautious management of the 
American. 

For some miles there was Sandstone in ridges at equal 
distances of six or eight rods apart, and from six to ten 
feet wide, rising a little above the surface ot the earth, 
running from south-east to north-west; laying in strata 
dipping to the west at an angle of 60°. At some distance 
I observed a mountain of red earth of similar character, 
excepting that the strata dipped to the east at an angle of 
4(P. In one place where the strata of rocks and earth 
were in waves nearly horizontal, a section a few rods wide, 
of a wedge form, had its waving strata in a perpendicular 
position, as though the mountain had been rent asunder, 
and the chasm filled with the perpendicular wedge. A 
great diversity of the strata of rocks and earth prevailed 
in every part. Towards the last of the way through ibis 
narrow defile we came to what appealed to be magnesian 
limestone, stratified, of a brown color, and very hard. As 
we passed on, we saw dark brown gypsum, like that found 



90 KINDNESS OF THE NATIVES. 

in the western part of the state of New York. Here for 
some distance 1 was much annoyed with the strong scent 
of sulphureted hydrogen, and soon saw at the foot of the 
mountain under the bed of gypsum a large sulphur spring, 
which sent up more than thirty gallons of water per min- 
ute. Around this spring were large quantities of incrusted 
sulphur, and so strongly is this water saturated, that it 
colors the water in the river a greenish yellow, on the 
side next to the spring, for more than a mile below. 

We passed more forests to-day, than since we left Rock 
Independence ; among which are Norway pine, balsam 
fir, double spruce, and common poplar — some low cedar 
and flowering raspberry, and various species of shrubbery 
which are not found in the United States. The Indians 
were very kind, and seemed to vie with each other to see 
who could do the most for my comfort, so that they more 
than anticipated my wants. Two little girls brought me 
a quart of strawberries, a rare dish for this season of the 
year. And an Indian brought me some service berries, 
which are large, purple, and oblong, of a pleasantly sweet 
taste, similar to whortleberries. We encamped upon a 
fertile plan, surrounded by mountains, where three years 
before, three men were killed by a small war party of 
Blackfeet Indians. There were seven of the hunters, and 
when they saw the Blackfeet, they all fled in different di- 
rections, and by so doing emboldened the Indians to the 
pursuit. Had they stood firm and combined, it is probable 
that they would have escaped unhurt. 

We traveled four hours on the 25th, to another branch 
of Lewis' or Snake river, and encamped in a large pleas- 
ant valley, commonly called Jackson's large hole. It is 
fertile and well watered with a branch of Lewis' river 
coming from the soutn-east, and another of some magni- 
tude, coming from the north-east, which is the outlet of 



WILD FLAX. 91 

Jackson's lake, a body of water situated just south of the 
Trois Tetons. There are also many very large springs of 
water of uncommon clearness, which issue from the base 
of the surrounding mountains. This valley is well sup- 
plied with grass of excellent quality, which was very 
grateful to our horses and mules, and, from the avidity 
with which they helped themselves, they seemed resolved 
to be remunerated for past deprivations. 

Flax is a spontaneous production of this country. It 
resembles the flax which is cultivated in the Un.ted States, 
in every thing, except that it is perennial — the stalk, the 
boll, the seed, the blue flower closed in the day time and 
open in the evening and morning. The Indians use it for 
making fishing nets. Fields of this flax might be mowed 
like grass ; for the roots are too large and run too deep 
into the earth, to be pulled like ours ; and an advantage, 
which this would have, is, that there would be a saving 
of ploughing and sowing. Is it not worthy the experi- 
ment of our agricultural societies % 

Kentuc, my Indian, brought me to-day some very good 
currants, which in this land were delicious. There are 
several species, yellow, pale red, and black. The yellow 
and pale red were the best flavored. 

We continued in this encampment three days, to give 
our animals an opportunity to recruit, and for Captain 
Bridger to fit and send out several of his men into the 
mountains to hunt and trap. When I reflected upon the 
probability, that most of these men would never return to 
their friends, but would find their graves in the mountains, 
my heart was pained for them, and especially at their 
thoughtlessness about the great things of the eternal world. 
I gave each of them a few tracts, for which they appeared 
grateful, and said they would be company for them in their 



92 A MOUNTAIN PROSPECT. 

lonely hours ; and as they rode away, I could only pray 
for their safely and salvation. 

During our continuance here, I took an Indian for an 
assistant, and ascended one of the highest mountains in 
the vicinity, to view the surrounding country. The pros- 
pect was as extensive as the eye could reach, diversified 
with mountains, hills, plains, and valleys. Most of the 
mountains were covered with woods ; but the plains and 
valleys were covered with grass, presenting less of bright 
green, however, than might be expected where the sum- 
mer is favored with dews and rains. But the whole was 
a scene of perfect enchantment. About sixty miles to the 
east, the Rocky mountains lay stretched through the whole 
extent of vision, spread out like luminous clouds in the 
horizon, tinged and mellowed with a golden hue by the 
rays of the sun ; their summits so elevated, that no soil 
ever rises to sully the pure whiteness of their everlasting 
snows. It is only from a position like this, that any adt- 
quate idea can be formed of the magnitude and height of 
the mountains, — of their combined beauiy and grandeur ; 
rising so high into perpetual snow, that nothing like sha- 
ded or dark chasms can be seen. Not very far to the 
north, the Trois Tetons, a cluster of high pointed moun- 
tains, covered with perpetual snow rising ten thousand feet 
almost perpendicularly, were distinctly visible, with two 
others of the same form but of less magnitude. Only 
three of the cluster are so high as to be seen at a very 
great distance. Here 1 spent much time in looking over 
the widely extended and varied scenery, sometimes filled 
with emotions of the sublime, in beholding the towering 
mountains ; sometimes with pleasure in tracing the wind- 
ings of thestre >ms in the vale below ; and these sensations 
frequently gave place to astonishment, in viewing the 



A MOUNTAIN PROSPECT. 93 

courses in which the rivers flow on their way, unobstruct- 
ed by mountain barriers. After some hours occupied in 
this excursion, I descended to the encampment much gra- 
tified with what I had seen of the works of God. The 
soil in this valley and upon the hills, is bla»k and rich, and 
the lime will come, when the solitude which now prevails 
will be lost in the lowing of herds and bleating of flocks, 
and the plough will cleave the clods of these hills and 
vales; and trom many altars will ascend the incense of 
prayer and praise. After I returned, Tai-quin-su-wa-tish 
took me to his company of horses and gave me one in to- 
ken of his friendship, and probably not without the motive 
to enlist me in his favor. The horse was finely made, and 
of the beautiful color of mngled cream and white. 

On the 28th, we pursued our journey, and passed over a 
mountain so high, that banks of snow weie but a short 
distance from our trail. When we had ascended two- 
thirds of the way, a number of buffalo, which were pur- 
sued by our Indians, came rushing down the side of the 
mountain, through the midst of our company One ran 
over a horse, on the back of which was a child, and 
threw the child far down the descent, but providentially 
it was not materially injured. Another, ran over a 
packed horse, and wounded it deeply in the shoulder. 
The buffalo are naturally timid, yet when they have laid 
their course, are affrighted, and running at full speed, it is 
seldom they change their direction, whatever obstacles 
may be in their way. 

I noticed nothing particularly new in geo'ogy, except- 
ing upon the higher parts of these mountains, granite of 
very light color. Our descent was through woods more 
dense than those on the other side, and the most dense of 
any forests since we left the waters of the Missouri. 
Many parts of the descent were ot almost impassable 



94 

steepness ; and part of theway down a rough deep ra- 
vine, a stream of water commences, and increasing from 
springs and rivulets to considerable magnitude, winds its 
way through the valley of Pierre's Hole ; in the upper 
part of which we made our encampment among willows, 
in the prairie vale. 

On the 29th we removed our encampment, and traveled 
five hours along this valley to the place, where two years 
before, two fur companies held their rendezvous. Pierre's 
Hole is an extensive, level country, of rich soil, well wa- 
tered by branches of Lewis' river, and is less frosty than 
any part we have passed this side the rocky chain of 
mountains. The valley is well covered with grass, but is 
deficient in woodland, having only a scanty supply of cot- 
ton-wood and willows scattered along the streams. It 
extends around to the north-west, as far as the eye can 
reach. We expected to have found buffalo here, but saw 
none. As parties of Blackfeet warriors often range this 
way, it was probable they had lately been here and 
frightened them away. Between this and our last en- 
campment, I was shown the place where the men of the 
fur companies, at the time of their rendezvous two years 
before, had a battle with the Blackfeet Indians. Of the 
Blackfeet party there were about sixty men, and more 
than the same number of women and children; of the 
white men in the valley, there were some few hundred 
who could be called into action. From the information 
given me, it appeared that these Indians were on their 
way through this valley, and unexpectedly met about for- 
ty hunters and trappers going out from rendezvous to the 
south-west on their fall and winter hunt. The Indians 
manifested an unwillingness to fight, and presented tokens 
of peace ; but they were not reciprocated. Those who 
came forward to stipulate terms of peace were fired upon 



95 

and killed. When the Indians saw their danger, they 
fled to the cotton-wood trees and willows which were 
scattered along the stream of water, and taking advan- 
tage of some fallen trees, constructed as good defense as 
time and circumstances would permit. They were poor- 
ly provided with guns, and were still more destitute of 
ammunition. The trappers keeping out of the reach of 
their arrows, and being well armed with the best of rifles, 
made the contest unequal ; and it became still more. une- 
qual, when, by an express sent to rendezvous, they were 
reinforced by veterans in mountain life. The hunters, 
keeping at a safe distance, in the course of a few hours 
killed several of the Indians, and almost all their horses, 
which, in their situation, could not be protected, while 
they themselves suffered but small loss. Those killed on 
both sides, have been differently stated, but considering 
the numbers engaged, and the length of time the skirm- 
ishing continued, it could not have been a bloody bat- 
tle ; and not much to the honor of civilized Americans 
The excuse made for forcing the Blackfeet into battle is, 
that if they had come upon a small party of trappers, they 
would have butchered them and seized upon the plunder. 
If heathen Blackfeet would have done so, civilized white 
men should not. What a noble opportunity was here af- 
forded for our American citizens to have set an example 
of humanity. 

When night approached, the hunters retired to their 
encampment at the place of rendezvous, and the Indians 
made their escape. Thus the famous battle of Pierre's 
Hole began and ended.* 



*Siiice my return, I have seen an account of this battle, written by a 
graphic hand, in all the fascinating style of romance, representing the 
Indians as having entrenched themselves inaswamp,so densely wooded 
as to be almost impenetrable ; and there they kept the trappers at bay, 



93 THE TEN COMMANDMENTS. 

I attended worship this evening with the chiefs, and as 
many as could assemble in one of their lodges, and ex- 
plained to them the ten commandments — and after show- 
ing them their sin in their transgression of God's holy 
law, pointed them to the Saviour, and endeavored to make 
them understand the way of salvation. My meihod of 
instructing them was to give the first chief the first com- 
mandment, by repeating it, until he could repeat it; and 
the second commandment to another chief in the same way, 
and so on through the ten, with directions for them to re- 
tain what was given to each, and to teach their people; 
and the same manner was pursued with other parts of di- 
vine truth ; informing them, that at our next assembling, 
I shall examine them to see if they rightly understood, and 
retained what [committed to each. And on examination, 
in no case did I find more than one material mistake. I 
also found th*st they took much pains to communicate in- 
struction to each other. 

In this place I parted with Captain Bridger and his 
party, who went north-east into the mountains to their 



until they were reinforced from rendezvous. When the Blackfeet saw 
the whole valley alive with horsemen, rushing to the field of action, 
they withdrew into the dark tangled wood. When the leaders of the 
several hunting parties came into the field, they urged their men to en- 
ter the swamp, but they hang hack in awe of the dismal horrors of the 
pi ice. regarding it impenetrable and full of danger. But the leaders 
would not be turned from their purpose — made their wills — appointed 
their executors — grasped their riiles, and urged their way through the 
w wets. A brisk fire was opened, and the Blackfeet were completely over- 
matched, but would not leave their fort, nor offer to surrender. The 
numerous veteran mountaineers, well equipped, did not storm the 
breastwork, even when the Blackfeet had spent their powder and bails, 
but only kept Up the bloody battle by occasional firing during the day. 
The Blackfeet in the night effected their retreat; and the brave moun- 
taineers assembled their forces in the morning, and entered the fort 
without opposition. 

With th >se who have seen the field of battle, the glowing description, 
drawn out in long detail, loses its interest; for although I saw it, yet I 
did not see dense woods, nor a swamp of any magnitude any where near. 



VOLCANIC CHASM. 97 

hunting ground, which the Blackfeet claim, and for which 
they will contend. The first chief of the Flatheads and 
his family, with a few of his people, went with Captain 
Bridger, that they might continue within the range of 
buffalo through the coming winter. 

The Nez Perces, and the Flatheads, with whom I go, 
take a north-west direction for Salmon river, beyond which 
is their country. Our encampment for the Sabbath was 
well chosen' for safety against any war parties of Black- 
feet Indians, near a small stream of water running through 
a volcanic chasm, one hundred feet deep, and in most 
places perpendicular. We were on the west side of the 
chasm, with a narrow strip of w T ood on every other side. 
Here was a passage made for the water by fire. The 
courses which are formed for the rivers, as forcibly prove the 
creating and directing hand of God, as the design mani- 
fested in the organic part of creation ; and I would as 
unwillingly account for the positions of mountains, and 
valleys, and the channels of rivers, by natural phenomena, 
without including the power and design of God, as for 
the formation of plants and animals. It is true, there is 
more minute and curious organization in the one than in 
the other, but in both the wisdom and power of God are 
manifest. 

This day of rest, to a weary traveler, is peculiarly re- 
freshing, and it seemed as though the Sabbath was designed 
especially for persons in such circumstances. It was, to 
my mind, a type of the final rest of the spirit when it shall 
return to God, after the toils of its present brief existence 
are done. I read with new satisfaction, the Epistle to the 
Hebrews, and committed again myself and family, the 
church, and the world of mankind, to God. It was plea- 
sant to reflect on the promise of the scriptures, that the 
kingdoms of this world shall become the kingdoms of the 



98 CHILDREN ON HORSEBACK. 

Lord and of his Christ, and he shall reign forever ; and 
that the time will come, when all shall know the Lord, 
and God shall be merciful to their unrighteousness, and 
their sins and iniquities He will remember no more. 

Monday, 31st. While the Indians were packing and 
preparing to leave this encampment, I went and examined 
the volcanic chasm. It is many miles in length, and nar- 
row, in proportion to its depth ; formed of basaltic columns 
in many places, and in others of amygdaloid. I found 
many large and fine specimens of pure obsidian, or volca- 
nic glass — much lava and vitrified stones. I took some 
small specimens. In the vicinity around, there was clink- 
stone in great abundance, which, when struck by the 
horses' hoofs, gave a metalic sound. The soil is black, 
and appears to be formed of decomposed lava, and is cov- 
ered with a nutritious grass. 

The Indians are very kind to each other, and if one 
meets with any disaster, the others will wait and assist 
him. Their horses often turn their packs, and run, plunge 
and kick, until they free themselves from their burdens. 
Yesterday a horse turned his saddle under him upon which 
a child was fastened, and started to run, but those near 
hovered at once around with their horses so as to enclose 
him, and the child was extricated without injury. When 
I saw the condition of the child, I had no expectation that 
it could be saved alive. This was the second case of the 
kind which had occurred since I had been traveling with 
these Indians. They are so well supplied with horses, 
that every man, woman, and child, is mounted on horse- 
back, and all their possessions are packed upon horses. 
Small children, not more than three years old, are mount- 
ed alone, and generally upon colts. They are lashed upon 
the saddle, to keep them from falling when they sleep, 
which they often do when they become fatigued. They 



CHILDREN ON HORSEBACK. 99 

then recline upon the horses' shoulders ; and when they 
awake, lay hold of the whip, which is fastened to the 
wrist of their right hand, and apply it smartly to their 
horses; and it is astonishing to see how these little crea- 
tures will guide and run them. Children which are still 
younger, are put into an encasement made with a board 
at the back and a wicker work around the other parts, 
covered within and without, or, more generally, with 
dressed skins : and are carried upon the mothers' back, or 
suspended lrom a high knob upon the fore part of their 
saddles. 

As we recede from the mountains the climate becomes 
warmer. We encamped upon another tributary of the Co- 
lumbia. Tai-quin-su-wa-tish, the principal chief of the Nez 
Perces, came to me and requested me to meet in his lodge 
a number of his people who had separated, husbands from 
their wives, and wives from their husbands, and explain 
to them what God had said upon the subject. I readily 
consented, and was the more pleased with the proposal as 
it was without any suggestion from myself, but the result 
of his own reflections upon what 1 had before said in ex- 
plaining the ten commandments. When they were as- 
sembled, I read to them about the relative duties of hus- 
bands and wives, and of parents and children. I comment- 
ed upon.the subject, and told them that when they marry 
it must be for life. All but two agreed to go back to their 
former husbands and wives. It was interesting to see that 
they are ready to practice instructions as soon as received. 
The chief said they desired me to instruct them in all that 
God has commanded ; for they wished to do right. After 
I left them, they stayed a long time in the lodge of the 
chief, which was near my tent, and I heard them convers- 
ing on the subject until I went to sleep, which was at a 



100 FEARS OF THE BLACKFEET. 

late hour. They all shook hands with me when I left 
them, and said my words were " tots " (good.) 

Tuesday, September 1st. We pursued our journey to- 
day only about four hours. Crossed Henry's Fork, an- 
other branch of Lewis' river, which is itself a river of some 
magnitude, about twenty rods wide in this place, and 
fordable only when the water is low. After proceeding 
a few miles down on the north side, we encamped at an 
early hour in a spot upon the bank of the river, surroun- 
ded by cotton-wood with a dense growth of shrubbery. 
Our fears of meeting a war party of Blaekfeet Indians, 
were increased by seeing three Indians pass who were 
strangers to us. Some of the chiefs went through our 
encampment and harangued the people, ihe object of 
which was to be prepared for defending themselves against 
an attack, should any enemies appear. We were pre- 
served in safety through the night, and arose on the morn- 
ing of the second and went on our way, and performed a 
journey of twenty-two miles over a barren section of 
country. The surface is composed of quartose sand, inter- 
mixed with disintegrated amygdaloid, basalt, and obsidian. 
In some places were large excavat ons, plainly indicative 
of ancient volcanoes, which had spread out their melted 
contents in a level plain of hard lava, or amygdaloid, 
without forming cones. In other places there were conical 
rocks of different magnitudes at the base, and of different 
height — none perhaps over the diameter of three rods at 
the base and sixty ieet hi«h. They were universally di- 
vided in the centre, as though an explosion had taken 
place after they were hardened. At some distance from 
us were several hills, rising in high cones some hundred 
feet — two of f hem I should Judge to be not far from three 
thousand feet hi-^h. I did not have an opportunity of ex- 
amining their geological formation. 



INVITATION TO FORT HALL. 101 

We arrived at evening at a small branch of the Sal- 
mon river, — the first water we had found through the 
day ; here also was good grass for our horses. Kentuc, 
my Indian, caught some excellent trout, which was a very 
grateful change of food. 

Our progress during the next day was through a barren 
tract, as yesterday, where there is no vegetation except 
wormwood, which grows very large. A sluggish stream 
bordered with willows, afforded us some conveniences for 
stopping at night. Thermometer, at noon, 65°. 

We traveled on the 4lh, five hours, and encamped in 
Cote's defile, by a stream of water, which comes out of 
the mountains and is lost in the barren plains below. 
Cote's defile passes through a range of high mountains, 
and some of their summits are covered with snow. Most 
of the day was uncomfortably cold, with snow-squalls. 
Thermometer, at noon, 54°. 

Friday, 4th. To-day I received a letter from Fort Hall, 
containing an invitation from Mr. A. Baker to spend the 
winter with him ; but the object for which I had passed 
the Rocky Mountains required me to pursue my tour, and 
if possible to reach the Pacific Ocean, and to return to Fort 
Vancouver before winter. We providentially learned that 
a large band of Nez Perces was a few miles below us, and 
would come to us to-morrow. We had become almost 
destitute of provisions, but to-day killed a few buffalo. 

The morning of the 5th was very cold. We continued 
in our encampment, to give the band of Nez Perces an 
opportunity to join us, and about the middle of the day 
they came ; the principal chief marching in front with his 
aid, carrying an American flag by his side. They all sung 
a march, while a few beat a sort of drum. As they drew 
near they displayed columns, and made quite an imposing 
appearance. The women and children followed in the 



102 CHARLIE, A NEZ PERCE CHIEF. 

rear. Tai-quin-su-wa-tish, and other chiefs, arranged 
their people in the same order and went out to meet 
them ; and when we had approached within ten rods of 
each other, all halted, and a salute was fired, in which I 
had to take the lead. They then dismounted, and both 
bands formed into single file, and meeting, shook hands, 
with me, and each other in token of friendship, and to ex- 
press their joy to see one come among them to teach them 
respecting God and salvation. The principal chief of the 
other band who is called Charlie, and is the first chief of 
the Nez Perce nation, is a good looking man, his counte- 
nance rather stern, intelligent, and expressive of much de- 
cision of character. I never saw joy expressed in a more 
dignified manner, than when he took me firmly by the 
hand and welcomed me. 

In the afternoon, I took Kentuc and rode five miles to 
see a prominence of interesting appearance. It is detach- 
ed from the main mountain, stands on a plain upon the 
east side of Cote's defile, is about half a mile in circum- 
ference at the base, and rises up abruptly, having most of 
its west side perpendicular. It is more than two hundred 
feet high, and has a level, horizontal summit of eighty rods 
long, north and south, and twenty rods wide. The large 
quantities of lava and amygdaloid which mainly compose 
it, furnish plain evidence of its having been fused and 
thrown up by subterranean fires. 

In the evening, I met the chiefs, and as many as could 
assemble in the lodge, and explained to those whom I had 
not seen before, the object of my mission. Charlie, the 
first chief, arose and spoke with much good sense for some 
time — mentioned his ignorance, his desire to know more 
about God, and his gladness of heart to see one who can 
teach him; and said " I have been like a little child uneasy, 
feeling about in the dark after something, not knowing 



A SANCTUARY IN THE WILDERNESS. 103 

what ; but now I hope to learn something which will be 
substantia], and which will help me to teach my people to 
do right." I told them to-morrow would be the Sabbath; 
and explained to them the nature of the institution, and 
their obligation to remember and keep it holy. They ex- 
pressed their desire to obey, and said they would not re- 
move camp, but attend to the worship of God. Providen- 
tially there came to us this afternoon a good interpreter 
from Fort Hall, who was willing to remain with us over 
Sabbath, so that to-morrow I shall be able to preach to 
the people. 

Sabbath, 6th. Early this morning one of the oldest 
chiefs went about among the people, and with a loud 
voice explained to them the instructions given last even- 
ing ; told them it was the Sabbath, and they must prepare 
for public worship. About eight in the morning, some of 
the chiefs came to me and asked where they should as- 
semble. I enquired if they could not be accommodated 
under the shade of the willows, which skirted the stream 
of water on which we were encamped. They thought they 
could not on account of their numbers. I then enquired if 
they could not take the poles of some of their lodges and 
construct a shade ; and without any other directions they 
went and made preparation, and before eleven o'clock 
came and said they were ready for worship. I found 
them all assembled, men, women, and children, between 
four and five hundred, in what I w r ould call a sanctuary of 
God, constructed with their lodges, nearly one hundred 
feet long and about twenty feet wide ; and all were ar- 
ranged in rows, through the length of the building upon 
their knees with a narrow space in the middle, length- 
wise, resembling an aisle. The whole area within was 
carpeted with their dressed skins, and they were all in 
their best attire. The chiefs were arranged in a semi-cir- 



104 AN INTERESTING AUDIENCE. 

cle at the end which I was to occupy. I could not have 
believed they had the means, or could have known how 
to erect so convenient and so decent a place for worship, 
and especially as it was the first time they had ever had 
public worship. The whole sight affected me, and filled 
me with admiration ; and I felt as though it was the 
house of God and the gate of heaven. 

They all continued in a kneeling position during sing- 
ing and prayer, and when I closed prayer with Amen, 
they all said what was equivalent in their language, to 
Amen. And w T hen I commenced sermon, they seated 
themselves back upon their heels. I stated to them the 
original condition of man when first created, his fall, and 
the ruined and sinful condition of all mankind ; the law of 
God, and that all are transgressors of this law and as such 
are exposed to the wrath of God, both in this life and the 
life to come ; and then told them of the mercy of God in 
giving his Son to die for us, and of the love of the Sa- 
vior, and that though he desires our salvation, he will not 
save us unless we hate sin and put our trust in him, and 
love and obey him with all our heart. I also endeavored 
to show them the necessity of renovation of heait by the 
power and grace of the Holy Spirit. Told them they 
must pray to God for the forgiveness of their sins and for 
salvation. They gave the utmost attention, and entire 
stillness prevailed, excepting when some truth arrested 
their minds forcibly, a little humming sound passed 
through the whole assembly, occupying two or three 
seconds. 

I never spoke to a more interesting assembly, and would 
not have changed my audience for any other upon earth ; 
and I felt that it was worth a journey across the Rocky 
Mountains, to enjoy this one opportunity with these heath- 
en who are so anxious to obtain a knowledge of God. I 



AN INDIAN BURIAL. 10 

hope that in the last day it will be found that good was 
done in the name of Jesus. If Christians could have wit- 
nessed this day's service, it would have enlisted their sym- 
pathies', and they would be willing to do something ade- 
quate to the conversion of these perishing souls. 

An Indian boy about sixteen years old, who belonged 
to the band which joined us yesterday, died this morning. 
He was speechless when he was brought here. We at- 
tended his funeral in the afternoon. They buried him in a 
very decent manner, without any heathen rites, excepting 
that they deposited with him all his clothes and blankets. 
I addressed the people at the grave upon the subject of 
the resurrection and of the judgment. This was entirely 
new to them and very interesting. Tai-quin-su-wa-tish 
came to my tent towards evening, and remarked that what 
I had said was " tois" it was spiritual, and now he knew 
more about God. So deep was the interest awakened by 
the few ideas their benighted minds had obtained of this 
most precious truth of our religion, that they came to my 
tent after I had retired to rest, and awakened me, to go and 
converse sti ] l farther with them on the subject. 

Monday, 7th, We traveled five hours to-day. The In- 
dians make slow progress in traveling with their village ; 
for it takes them a long time to pack and unpack, to set 
up and take down their lodges. This, is however, of little 
consequence to them ; for wherever they are, that place is 
their home. 

They are very kind, and manifest their kindness in anti- 
cipating all, and more than all my wants, which they have 
the power to supply. They consult me upon all their im- 
portant business, and are ready to follow my counsels. 
They are attentive to furnish little comforts. If the sun 
shines with much warmth into my tent, they will cut green 
bu. c ies and set them up for shade. A few days since we 
5* 



106 VOLCANIC ROCKS. 

encamped where there were some fragrant plants of a 
species of mint, and the wife of Tai-quin-su-wa-tish, with 
a few other women, collected a quantity, and strewed them 
in my tent. 

We passed to-day mountains of volcanic rocks, and 
over a more rich, black soil, where we found a good sup- 
ply of grass for our horses at night. 

Our route, on the 8ih, was continued as usual. My 
health hitherto, since I commenced my journey, has been 
unintenuptedly good until to-day, when I suffered a slight 
attack of inflammation of the lungs > in consequence of a 
cold. 

The Indian mode of living is very precarious, and yet 
they are seldom anxious about the future. When they 
have a plenty, they are not sparing; and when they are 
in want, they do not complain. The Indians at this time 
were almost destitute of provisions, and we were approach- 
ing the Salmon river mountains, to pass over which occu- 
pies between twelve and fifteen days, and where there are 
no buffalo and scarcely any other game. I felt a prayerful 
concern for them, that God would send a supply before we 
should get beyond the range of buffalo, and was confident 
that we should experience the truth of His word, that he 
provides for all their meat in due season ; and as the ca'tle 
upon the thousand hills are his, he would not withhold 
his providential care from us. 

We continued to pass basaltic mountains ; and also 
passed some very white marl clay, which the Indians use 
for cleansing their robes and other garments made of dress- 
ed skins. 

Their mode of doing this is to make the clay into a 
paste, and rub it upon the garments, and when it becomes 
dry they rub it off, which process leaves the garments soft, 



SCARCITY OP PROVISIONS TIMELY SUPPLY. 107 

clean, and white. We encamped to-day where the In- 
dians had before made an encampment, a little below a 
steep bank. Near night I was alarmed by shouts of In- 
dians and a general rush up the bank. I hastened up and 
saw great numbers running towards our camp. It proved 
to be a foot race, such as they frequently exercise them- 
selves in, for the purpose of improving their agility. 

September "9th, I was more unwell. To-day we unex- 
pectedly saw before us a large band of buffalo, and halted 
to make preparation for the chase. The young men and 
all the good hunters prepared themselves, selected the 
swiftest horses, examined the Tew guns they had, and took 
a supply of arrows with their bows. Our condition was 
such, that it seemed that our lives almost depended upon 
their success. And while they were preparing, I could 
not but offer prayer to God, that he would in mercy give 
them judgment, skill, and success. They advanced tow- 
ards the herd of buffalo with great caution, lest they should 
frighten them before they could make a near approach ; 
and also to reserve the power of their horses for the chase, 
when it should be necessary to bring it into full requisi- 
tion. When the buffalo took the alarm and fled, the rush 
was made, each Indian selecting for himself a cow with 
which he happened to come into the nearest contact. All 
were in swift motion, scouring the valley — a cloud of dust 
began to arise— the firing of guns and the shooting of ar- 
rows followed in close succession — soon, here and there, 
buffalo were seen prostrated ; the women, who followed 
close in the rear, began the work of securing the valuable 
acquisition ; and the men were away again in pursuit of 
the fleeing herd. Those in the chase, when they come 
abreast of the buffalo and at the distance of two rods, 
shoot and wheel, expecting the wounded animal to turn 



108 THE CHASE. 

upon them. The horses appeared to understand the way 
to avoid danger. As soon as the wounded buffalo flies 
again, the chase is renewed, and such is the alternate 
wheeling and chasing until the buffalo sinks beneath its 
wounds. They obtained between fifty and sixty. I was 
interested to see how expertly the Indians used the bow 
and arrow, and how well the women followed up the chase, 
and performed their part in dressing the buffalo which 
were slain. 

After traveling six hours to-day, we encamped on the 
eastern branch of Salmon river,, where it is of considerable 
magnitude. The pain in my breast changed to my head. 

On the 10th, my health was no better, and I was obliged 
to bleed myself and resort to medicine. I could say with 
the Psalmist, " I laid me down and slept ; for thou art with 
me." We did not remove to-day, for it was necessary 
for the Indians to dry their meat by a process which is 
called " jerking." The meat is cut into pieces, an inch 
thick, and spread out on a fixture made with stakes, upon 
which are laid poles, and upon these cross sticks ; and 
then a moderate fire is placed beneath, which partly smokes, 
cooks, and dries it, until it is so well freed from moisture, 
that it can be packed, and then it will keep without injury 
almost any length of time. Here we made preparation 
for the remainder of my journey to Walla Walla, which 
will probably occupy about twenty days. 

September 11th. To-day most of the Nez Perces and 
Flatheads left us to continue within the range of buffalo, 
that they might secure a larger store of provisions before 
winter, leaving, however, about one hundred and fifty to 
go with me towards Walla Walla. Before they left us, 
I experienced another token of their regard in a very valua- 
ble present of twenty fine buffalo tongues, which are a 



SALMON RIVER. 109 

great delicacy, together with a large quantity of dried 
meat. I reciprocated their kindness by making such pre- 
sents as were in my power to bestow — among which was a 
britania cup, to the first chief, which he highly valued. 
And I gave him some writing paper, requesting him to 
present it to the missionaries whom I had encouraged him 
to expect next year. 

After traveling three hours, we encamped upon the same 
branch of the Salmon river, to give the Indians an oppor- 
tunity to dry their meat more thoroughly. 

We continued our journey, on the 12th, down the east- 
ern branch of Salmon river. The valley through which 
this river runs is generally fertile, and varies from one to 
three or four miles in width, but as we advanced toward 
the Salmon river mountains, the mountains upon each side 
increased in height and converged towards each other. 
They presented some noble prospects. It is a custom with 
Indians to send out numbers of their best hunters and war- 
riors, in different directions, to reconnoiter, and especially 
when they are apprehensive that enemies may be near. We 
had evidence, from tracks recently made, that Indians of 
some other nation, or tribe, were about us ; and therefore 
more than usual numbers of our men were flanking and 
ahead. On the banks of the river down which we were 
traveling, there was a dense growth of willows, extending, 
however, only a few rods into the bottom-lands. About 
two in the afternoon, we were all very much alarmed to see 
our men, who were out as hunters and guards upon the 
hills, running their horses at full speed, in an oblique di- 
rection towards us. Two of them were our principal chiefs. 
We knew that they had discovered something more than 
ordinary, but what we could not conjecture. Being in a 
country where war parties of Blackfeet Indians often range, 



110 DANGER APPREHENDED. 

our thoughts "were turned upon danger ; and soon our 
fears were increased by seeing clouds of dust arise on the 
sides of the mountains at our left, and in the obscure dis- 
tance, men descending as swiftly as their horses could 
run. They were so far ofT that we could not determine 
who they were. At the same time our two chiefs on the 
hills halted and made signals which we did not understand. 
In addition to this, some of the Indians said they saw 
Blackfeet Indians in the willows, not far off, between us 
and the chiefs ; and our belief that it was so, was con- 
firmed, when two deer rushed from the willows towards 
us, and when they saw us, instead of returning, only de- 
clined a little to the left, and passed before us. These en- 
quiries arose in my mind — Why have the chiefs halted ? 
Do they see enemies between us and themselves ? Are 
their signals to give us warning of danger ? What so 
frightened the deer that they rushed out towards us ? We 
had all halted, and made what preparation we could for 
battle. As we did not know in what part of the willows 
to make the attack, we were waiting for our enemies to 
commence the fire, and were expecting every instant to 
have their balls poured in upon us. It was a moment of 
awful suspense. We sent out a few men, on an eminence 
to our right, to see what they could discover, and they 
soon returned without having seen any enemies. The 
two chiefs upon the hills, who were now joined by those 
who rushed down the mountains, and who proved to be 
some of our own men, applied their whips to their horses, 
and in full speed came to us ; and Charlie, the first chief, 
rode up to me, and smiling reached out his hand and said, 
" cocoil, cocoil" (buffalo, buffalo.) Thus ended the bat- 
tle; and the remainder of the day was spent in killing 
and dressing buffalo, which was far more pleasant than 



ILL HEALTH. Ill 

fighting Blackfeet Indians. This made a desirable addi- 
tion to their stock of provisions. We encamped in this 
place, with a plenty of good grass for our horses, and no 
want of fuel. 

The inflammation in my head still continued with throb- 
bing, pain, and fever — my pulse one hundied a minute. 
Bled myself again and took medicine. 1 hermometer, at 
noon, 73°. 

Sabbath, 13th. My health was no better, and my 
strength was failing. I felt that all was ri«. ht, and that I 
needed this trial to lead me to an examination of my spir- 
itual condition, my motives in engaging in this mission, 
and whether I could give up all for Christ to promote his 
kingdom in the world. I thought I could surrender all 
into the hands of God, my soul to my Redeemer, and my 
body to be buried by the Indians in this desert land. 1 felt 
as though it was desirable to finish my tour, and return 
and make my report, and urge the sending of missionaries 
into this field, which is white for the harvest ; and again to 
meet my family and friends ; but still I wished not to have 
any will of my own, but say, the will of the Lord be done. 
The Indians persevere in their kindness, and are very re- 
spectful, and ready to obey as fast as I can impart instruc- 
tion; and they say that what I tell them is different from 
any thing they have ever heard, being spiritual, and that 
they wish to have Sueapo (American) teachers. If the 
American churches will not send them teachers, criminali- 
ty must rest upon them for disobedience to Christ's au- 
thority. Are there any heat lien more anxious than these 
to be taught the way of salvation, where there are so few 
obstacles to the introduction of tie gospel? Here are 
no idols, no sacrifices, no power of caste to combat; nor, 
as yet, the destructive influence which exists upon the 
frontiers. 



112 GEOLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 

September 14th. Re-commenced our journey, pro- 
ceeded five hours down the river, and stopped a few miles 
above the main branch of Salmon river, which comes 
from the south, and has its source in two small lakes, in 
the mountains north of Henry's Fork. 

For some distance on our way, on the 15th, the moun- 
tains come down near the river, rendering the valley 
through which it runs, narrow. Some of these mountains 
terminate in high bluffs, in many places presenting un- 
commonly interesting strata. The lowest stratum was 
white marly earth, about twenty feet in depth, nearly 
horizontal, and somewhat indurated; upon this a green 
stratum of about four feet in thickness ; next a stratum of 
brown of about ten feet; upon this a stratum of red of 
about the same depth of the green ; over this a mould of 
decomposed lava. This marly earth slightly effervesces 
with acid. The rocks in most places are basalt — in some 
places very fine granular quartz. Noticing some unusual 
appearances near the foot of the mountains, on the left, I 
rode to the place, and found a cluster of volcanic erup- 
tions; though ancient, they appeared more recent than 
any I had previously seen. A little way down the de- 
scent into one of the craters, I found a petrified stump, 
standing in its natural position ; its roots and the grain of 
the wood entire. I think it was cedar, and about eighteen 
inches in diameter. This stood undoubtedly, upon what 
was the natural surface of the earth, and the mound above 
and around was thrown up by volcanic fires. While time 
is mouldering the lava into dust, the wind is scattering it 
over the country around, to renew the soil once destroyed 
by the great conflagration, which fused this whole region 
of the setting sun. This petrified stump, found in this po- 
sition, proves that this country, now so destitute of wood, 



NEZ PERCE AND BLACKFEET INDIANS. 113 

was once supplied if not covered with forests. From va- 
rious sources of evidence, it is plain that these prairie re- 
gions were formerly better supplied with wood than at 
present, and also that the present supply is constantly 
diminishing. 

We passed, to-day, a place where two years ago thirty 
Nez Perce young men were buried, who were killed by 
the Blackfeet. They were all active young men, going 
out upon some expedition, the nature of which I could not 
learn. They had gone but a little distance from the vil- 
lage, which encamped here, when, passing through a very 
narrow defile on a small stream of water, walled up on 
both sides with perpendicular rocks, the Blackfeet Indians 
way-laid them, attacked them from before and behind, and 
killed all but one, who mounted a horse belonging to the 
Blackfeet, and rushed through the opposing enemy. After 
the Blackfeet Indians had retired from the place of slaugh- 
ter, the Nez Perces brought away the dead bodies and 
buried them in this place. According to their mode, they 
buried with them their clothes, blankets, and buffalo 
robes, in graves about three feet deep, putting five or six 
bodies into a grave. Some time after this, the Blackfeet 
Indians dug them up, and made plunder of their blankets 
and whatever they thought worth taking. The Nez Perces 
afterward came this way, collected their bones and buried 
them again. The graves in which they were first buried 
were open when we passed, and fragments of garments 
lying about. Here my Indians halted, and mourned in 
silence over their murdered sons and brothers. The whole 
scene was affecting, and I could not but long for the time 
to come when they shall settle down in a Christian com- 
munity, and cease from their dangerous wanderings ; and 
when the gospel shall be sent to the Blackfeet Indians, 



114 

that they may imbibe its spirit of peace on earth and good 
will toward men. After some time spent in reflections 
and solemn mourning, we left the place and proceeded 
down the river, and encamped near Bonneville's Fort, 
now abandoned ; it is situated in a small pleasant valley. 
This place would be favorable for fur business, was it not 
on the ground where conflicting tribes often meet. 



SALMON RIVER. 115 



CHAPTER VII. 

Salmon river — mineral salt — chimneys — forest trees, new species of 
pine — geology — sulphur lake — a rare animal — new species of squir- 
rels and pheasants — Lewis branch of the Columbia — ferryman — Ba- 
saltic formation — fine climate — arrive at Walla Walla. 

Salmon river is a beautiful transparent stream, and takes 
its name from the immense number of salmon found in its 
waters. The shores are covered with pebbles of primitive 
formation. 

I took an observation of latitude, and found it 44° 41'. 

September 16th. Passing a mile down the river, we 
came to a location of mineral salt, (Chloride of Sodium.) 
It crops out of the mountain near its base, on the south 
side of the river. On account of the impaired state of my 
health, and the want of facilities for exploring the mine, 
I was under the necessity of passing it with an examina- 
tion of such specimens only as the Indians procured. The 
Salt is pure and white, containing less of the water of crys- 
talization than our common salt. I took a quantity to re- 
plenish my nearly exhausted store. That the mine may 
be extensive is probable from the circumstance, that the 
geological formations around, are like those about the 
mines in Poland, and besides it is in the vicinity of the 
great Salt Lake, whose waters are so strongly saturated, 
that crystals form upon the shores. 

After passing down the river two hours in a north-west 
direction, w r e entered into the mountains, leaving Salmon 
river. The river literally passes into the mountains ; for 
the opening in the perpendicular rocks, two or three bun- 



116 THE CHIMNEYS. 

dred feet high, and through mountains several thousand 
feet high, is wide enough only for the river to find a pas- 
sage. It flowed into the dark chasm, and we saw it no 
more. During the two hours' ride, before we entered the 
mountains, the scenery was grand. While there was 
some level bottom-land along the river, in every direction 
mountains were rising above mountains, and peaks above 
peaks, up to the regions of perpetual snow. These moun- 
tains are not so much in chains, as of conical forms, with 
bases in most instances small in proportion to their height. 
So much sublimity and grandeur, combined with so much 
variety, is rarely presented to view. Horizontal strata, 
with interchanges of white, green, red, and brown, were 
similar to those seen yesterday ; and in one place, for more 
than a mile, a vertical front was presented, facing the 
south-west, of one hundred and fifty, and two hundred feet 
high, resting upon a base of conglomerated rock, composed 
of round stones of primitive origin, cemented with marly 
clay of the various colors already mentioned. The oppo- 
site side of the river is studded with dark basalt. 

After leaving Salmon river we traversed a dreary, nar- 
row, and winding course for several hours, until an open 
space spread out before us. Here 1 beheld what appear- 
ed at a distance like a village of thirty or forty houses 
which the fire had desolated, leaving the decayed, broken, 
and tottering chimneys yet standing. On a nearer ap- 
proach they proved to be masses of slaty rock, ten, twen- 
ty, and even forty feet in height. The firm and durable 
texture of their material preserves them from being crum- 
bled t3 a level w 7 ith the earth around them. 

From this place we turned more to the west, passed a 
high mountain, parts of which are very steep, and en- 
camped in a valley by a stream of crystal water. 

On the 17th, we pursued our journey over high moun- 



THE ELASTIC PINE. 117 

tains, in some places intersected by deep ravines, very 
difficult to be passed. Encamped on a small plain in a 
grove of large Norway pines. 

September 18th. The villages of Indians make slow 
progress in traveling, and being desirous to expedite my 
journey to some of the posts of the Hudson Bay Company, 
I took ten Indians and went forward, leaving the remain- 
der to follow at their leisure. We passed over a mountain 
six thousand feet high, occupying more than half a day to 
arrive at the summit. These mountains are covered with 
woods, excepting small portions, which are open and fur- 
nish grass for our horses. The woods are composed main- 
ly of fir, spruce, Norway pine, and a new species of pine. 
The leaves of this new species resemble those of pitch 
pine, growing in bunches at the ends of the limbs, but are 
shorter and smaller; the bark and the body of the tree 
resemble the larch ; the wood is firm and very elastic. 
On experiments which 1 made, I found it difficult to break 
sticks an inch in diameter. On account of this last and 
peculiar property, I have called it the elastic pine. It 
grows very tall and straight, and without branches except 
near the top. These pines would undoubtedly mike ex- 
cellent masts and spars for shipping. After passing part 
of the way down this mountain, we stopped for the night. 
We arose early on the 19th, and commenced our day's 
labor, and by diligence went more than twice the distance 
than when we were with the village. We were much 
annoyed by trees that had fallen across the trail. En- 
camped upon the sou'h-east side of a high mountain, where 
there was a large opening, a spring of water, and a good 
supply of grass for our horses. 

Sabbath, 20th. We continued in the same encamp- 
ment. I expressed my wish to the chief, that the day 
should be spent religiously, and that he should communi- 



118 REFLECTIONS. 

cate to his men, as well as he was able, the scripture 
truths he had learned. This was faithfully done on his 
part, and he prayed with them with much apparent devo- 
tion. I was interested to see how readily they were dis- 
posed to obey to the extent of their knowledge, and I was 
affected with the thought that so few were willing to 
come and teach these benighted minds. After they had 
closed their worship, I sang a hymn and prayed, and con- 
versed with them. 

The inflammation in my head continuing, I bled myself 
copiously, which reduced my pulse for awhile, but in- 
creased my weakness, so that I could walk only a few 
rods without much fatigue. 

Sometimes, amidst all the evidences of God's mercy to 
me, I found my heart sinking in despondency, and was 
ready to say, I shall perish in these wild, cold mountains. 
It seemed, that such was my loss of strength, and I was 
becoming so emaciated, that I could not endure the fatigue 
of traveling eight days longer over mountains on an aver- 
age about six thousand feet high ; and as they range north 
and south, with only very narrow valleys between, and 
our course was only a little north of west, we were con- 
stantly ascending and descending; and we could not dis- 
continue our journey for the want of provisions. The 
thought that I must fail of accomplishing the object of my 
mission, and close my life without a sympathizing friend 
with whom I could converse and pray ; and be buried in 
the solitary mountains, filled me with a gloom which I 
knew was wrong. My judgment was clear, but I could 
not make it influence the feelings of my heart. At night 
I sometimes thought a pillow desirable, upon which to Jay 
my aching, throbbing hend, but my portmanteau was the 
only substitue, and I rested quietly upon the ground, and 
every morning arose refreshed by sleep. 



CURIOSITY. 119 

Monday, 21st. At an early hour we resumed our jour- 
ney, and our horses being recruited with the rest and good 
fare of yesterday, made a long day's journey. I had no- 
ticed the mountain over which we passed to day, which is 
about seven thousand feet high, two days before we ar- 
rived at the top ; and queried in my mind whether Charlie, 
my guide, would not depart in this instance from the com- 
mon custom of the Indians, which is to pass over the high- 
est parts of mountains, and to descend into the lowest val- 
leys. But we passed the highest point, excepting one 
peak, which is nearly perpendicular, and rises like an im- 
mense castle or pyramid. It is composed of basalt ; and 
around it volcanic rocks lie scattered in great profusion. 
At the base there are also excavations, around and below 
which there is a large quantity of lava. This is a granite 
mountain, most of which is in its natural state. The way 
by which I calculated the height of the mountains is, that 
some of them are tipped with perpetual snow ; and as 
eight thousand feet, in latitude 42°, is the region of per- 
petual snow, there can be no doubt, as these do not vary 
greatly from each other, that they average six thousand 
feet. 

I was much interested with a curiosity upon this moun- 
tain, which was two granite rocks, each weighing many 
tons, placed one upon the other, like the parts of an hour 
glass. It was wonderful, how nicely the uppermost one 
was balanced upon the other. It would seem that a puff of 
wind would blow it off its centre. Charlie, the chief, seeing 
me one day examining minerals, with a magnifying glass, 
said, " these white men know every thing. They know 
what rocks are made of, they know how to make iron, 
and how to make watches, and how to make the needle 
always point to the north." They had seen a compass 
before, and when I showed them mine, they said, " that 



120 INDIAN SIMPLICITY. 

would keep me from getting lost." A waterfall was seen 
descending down a high point of this mountain, and, by 
its continual foaming, looked like a white belt girding 
its side. 

We left our encampment, on the 22d, at an early hour 
and continued our mountainous journey. Parts of the 
way the ascent and descent was at an angle of 45°, and in 
some places even more steep; sometimes on the verge of 
dizzy precipices ; sometimes down shelves of rocks where 
my Indian horse would jump from one to another, and in 
other places would brace himself upon all fours and slide 
down. I had become so v eak that I could not walk on 
foot, but was obliged to keep upon his back. Frequently 
between the mountains there would be only space enough 
for a rushing stream of the purest water to find its way ; 
the bank on one side of which would terminate the de- 
scent of one mountain, and the other bank commence the 
ascent of another. The question often arose in my mind, 
can this section of country ever be inhabited, unless the 
mountains shall be brought low, and the valleys exalted ? 
But they may be designed to perpetuate a supply of wood 
for the wide-spread prairies ; and they may contain mines 
of treasures, which, when wrought, will need these forests 
for fuel, and these rushing streams for water power. Roads 
may be constructed running north and south, so that trans- 
portation may be made south to the Salmon river, and 
north to the Coos-coots-ke.* 

After a fatiguing day's march, we encamped in a low 
stony place where there was but little grass, for the want 
of which some of our horses strayed away. Our men 

*The name of this river in the journal of Clark and Lewis, and in all 
other writings I have seen, is written Coos-coos-kee. This signifies iho 
water water. But Coos-coots-ke signifies the little water. Coos, wa- 
ter ; coots, little ; ke, the. The little river. 



i 



MOUNTAIN LAKES. 121 

killed a deer, which was a very agreeable change from 
dried buffalo. 

The mountains over which we made our way on the 
23d, were of primitive formation, with the exception of 
some parts which were volcanic. Granite and mica slate 
predominated. In one place there were immense quanti- 
ties of granite, covering more than a hundred acres, in a 
broken state, as though prepared for making walls, mostly 
in cubic forms. In some places, the change from granite, 
in its natural state, to amygdaloid, was so gradual, that it 
would be difficult to say where the one ended and the 
other began ; like the change from day to night. While 
riding along upon a narrow ridge of this mountain, I saw 
two small lakes a little down the sides ; one on the right 
hand, which appeared to be very black, and the other up- 
on the left was very yellow with sulphur, issuing from a 
spring in the mountain side. These two lakes were 
directly opposite each other, and not far distant. I should 
have examined them more minutely, had my strength per- 
mitted me to go down to them, and again ascend to 
where I must have left my horse. There was also much 
in the scenery around to admire ; mountain rising above 
mountain, and precipice above precipice. 

We spent the night in a valley, where there was a 
small meadow, well supplied with grass. The woods 
around were very dense, composed mostly of the new spe- 
cies of pine, which here were very tall and straight, not 
however very large in diameter. The neighborhood of 
beaver was indicated by the mud dam, and by the barked 
willows on the stream. The Indians brought in a wolve- 
rine which they had killed. 

Took an early departure, on the 24th, from our en- 
campment, and made good progress through the day. 
About the middle of the day, we came where we could 
6 



122 NEW SPECIES OP TREES. 

look forward without having the sight obstructed by 
mountains, and it was pleasant to have a prospect open- 
ing into the wide world. We continued to descend, until 
we came into a valley of considerable extent, through 
which flows a large branch of the Coos-coots-ke. Found 
to-day a new species of elder ; it grows five or six inches 
in diameter, and from ten to twenty feet high, bearing 
berries which are blue and pleasant to the taste. Kentuc 
caught some fine trout. 

Here was a band of horses, belonging to the Nez 
Perces, which they left last spring. They were in fine 
order. It is remarkable that their horses do not wander 
far from where they are left, although there are no fences 
to inclose them. Some of the Indians changed their 
horses and took fresh ones, relieving those which were 
worn down with journeying. 

On the 25th, we pursued our course down this fertile 
valley, until one in the afternoon, when, contrary to my 
expectations, we left the branch of the Coos-coots-ke, 
which took too much of a north direction, and ascended 
another high mountain, densely covered with woods. 
Among the largest trees is a new species of fir, single 
leafed, the bark thick and rough like the bark of hemloc, 
but the balsam is the same as the common fir. I saw 
more birds in this valley, than in all the country through 
which I had passed west of the Rocky Mountains ; robins 
in great numbers, the magpie, and with them a new species 
of bird about as large as the magpie, its color uniformly a 
dull red somewhat resembling chocolate. Thermometer 
stood at 54°. 

On the 26th, we proceeded but about four hours on our 
way, and encamped on the side of a mountain near its sum- 
mit; the distance to another suitable place for our horses 
over Sabbath, being too great. Saw to-day, a new species 



A RARE ANIMAL. 123 

of animal, such as I never saw before. It was about as 
large as a martin, and probably of that genus. Its color 
was a bright orange red, resembling a live coal of fire ; 
its fur appeared to be fine ; its head was round and large ; 
its eyes black, prominent and very piercing. I was for- 
ward of my Indians, and when it saw me, it sprang about 
eight feet up a tree, ran part of the way up, but appeared 
afraid to ascend higher. Attempts were made to obtain 
it, but without success. An Indian hit it with an arrow, 
but did not kill it, and it came down and escaped. I saw 
in these mountains, a new variety of striped squirrel, only 
about half as large as those found in the United States ; 
and another kind, in every respect resembling the red 
squirrel, but in color. It is nearly black, excepting its 
under parts, which are rufous, or reddish yellow. Also a 
new species of pheasant, if it may be called a pheasant. 
It is much smaller than the common species ; somewhat 
lighter colored and more spotted ; it is gregarious like the 
common quail. It was remarkably tame, as if unac- 
quainted with enemies ; and when assailed with stones by 
the Indians, appeared to be amazed, and made scarcely 
any effort to escape. Its flesh was very good, and fur- 
nished an additional supply to our waning stock of pro- 
visions. 

Sabbath, 27th. We continued in our encampment. 
My health was no better — perspired profusely last night, 
and yet the inflammation was increasing — bled myself, 
and, though weakened, found relief. 

We had religious services both in the morning and 
afternoon of this day, as last Sabbath. Charlie prays 
every morning and evening with his men, and asks a bless- 
ing when they eat. In the afternoon, he, with Compo, 
my interpreter, came and sat by me, and said, " we are 



124 

now near our country, and when we come into it, I wish 
you to look over it and see if it is good for cultivation and 
for missionaries to live in. I know but little about God — 
my people know but little — I wish my people to know 
more about God." He said he wished to talk with me 
much more, and was sorry I had not a better qualified in- 
terpreter. 

Monday, 28th, my health was improved, and we made 
a long day's march, and emerged from the mountains 
about two o'clock in the afternoon. Not finding water as 
we expected, we were obliged to travel on until near 
night, when we came to another branch of the Coos- 
coots-ke, at which we found several lodges of Nez Perce 
Indians. A salute was fired, and then we were welcomed 
with a ceremonious, but hearty shaking of hands. They 
feasted us with excellent dried salmon, and I made them 
some small presents. I was rejoieed to find myself safely 
through the Salmon River Mountains, and convalescent. 
These mountains were far more difficult to pass than the 
Rocky Mountains, as we could not take advantage of any 
valley, but one in which we journeyed only two-thirds of 
a day. Excepting in the middle of the days, the atmos- 
phere was cold, and frequently ice was formed during the 
night. It was a favor that we had no snow, which often 
falls upon the tops of the mountains very early in the au- 
tumn ; nor had we any storms, or unpleasant weather in 
our passage. Frequently, heavy gales of winds sweep 
through these mountains, and prostrate parts of the forest ; 
but we had none to endanger us. 

On the 29th, we proceeded down this branch more than 
half the day, and found the soil black and good, well cov- 
ered with grass, but dried into hay by the summer drouth. 
Here, as on most prairies, there is much want of wood, 



MEETING WITH INDIANS. 125 

there being but little besides what is found along the 
streams of water. This country continues to be volcanic, 
as is evinced by the abundance of lava and basalt. 
Came at noon to six lodges of Indians, who welcomed us 
with the same friendly expressions, as those did where we 
encamped last night. We left the branch of the Coos- 
coots-ke and ascended westerly to the upper prairies, 
which are as fertile as the lower, and do not suffer more 
with the drouth. After a long and fatiguing ride over 
these prairies, we descended into a deep gulf, almost en- 
closed with perpendicular walls of basalt ; in the bottom 
of which, we found a large spring of water, where we en- 
camped. 

Arose very early on the 30th, set forward, and made 
good progress, considering the exhausted state of our 
horses. Most of the streams were dried up, and one which 
is generally large, and where we intended to have arrived 
last night, was wholly destitute of water and grass. As- 
cending out of this gulf, we found toward the summit of 
the high prairie, a good spring of water, with sufficiency 
of grass, where we refreshed ourselves at noon. The 
horses, contrary to my expectations, preferred the dried 
grass to the green. In the afternoon, we went through a 
section of country well supplied with woods, chiefly made 
up of yellow pine and white oak ; where much of the soil 
appeared to be very good. Towards night we came to a 
stream of water running west, where we encamped. 
Thermometer 82° at noon. 

Thursday, October 1st. Arose early with substantially 
better health, for which I cannot be too thankful. After 
traveling a few miles, we came to several lodges of Nez 
Perces, who gave us their kind welcome, and seemed, as 
at the other lodges, much pleased to see their first chief. 



126 LEWIS RIVER. 

They manifested the same feelings on learning who I was, 
and the object of my coming into their country, as their 
countrymen did whom we met at the rendezvous. With 
these Indians, I left two of my horses, which were too much 
exhausted with the fatigues of our long journey to proceed 
any farther. I had fears that they would not endure the 
deprivations of the coming winter, without any shelter 
from the cold and storms, and with nothing to eat except 
what they could find upon the prairies. 

We arrived, two o'clock in the afternoon, at the Lewis 
branch of the Columbia river, near the confluence of the 
Coos-coots-ke. Though this is a large river, yet on ac- 
count of the summer's drouth there is less water flowing 
down its channel than I anticipated. 

A squalid looking Indian took us over the ferry in a ca- 
noe, which appeared as weather-beaten as himself, and 
reminded me of fabled Charon and his cerulean boat. 

The country differs much from what I had expected ; 
for while the soil is generally good, and furnishes a supply 
for grazing, yet so great is the destitution of summer rains, 
that some kinds of grain cannot flourish, especially Indian 
corn. The crops sown in the fall of the year, or very ear- 
ly in the spring, would probably be so far advanced before 
the severity of the drouth, that they would do well. In 
general there is a great want of wood for building, fencing 
and fuel ; but at the confluence of these rivers a supply 
may be brought down the Coos-coots-ke. This place 
combines many advantages for a missionary station. 

I began to doubt the correctness of the statements of 
some travelers, in regard to the great numbers of wild 
horses, and the immense multitudes of wolves, which they 
say they saw this side the Rocky Mountains ; for as yet I 
had seen no wild horses, and only a very few wolves. We 



GEOLOGY. 127 

passed the niglit upon the west bank of Lewis river, or as 
it is more commonly called, the Snake river. 

On the 2d, we arose early, but were detained some time, 
before all our horses could be found. We started about 
eight, and proceeded three hours down the river to a place 
where it takes a northerly bend, through a section of moun- 
tains which are difficult to be passed. Our direct course 
to Walla Walla being west north-west, we here left the 
river and followed a small stream up a valley nearly to its 
source. The section of country through which we jour- 
neyed to-day was mountainous. One part of the river 
along which we traveled was w T alled up with volcanic 
rocks. The lowest part was amygdaloid, about thirty feet 
high and very cellular, terminating in a narrow horizontal 
plain. Above this is superimposed columnar basalt ; the 
columns of which are regular crystalized pentagons, va- 
rying from two to four feet in diameter, rising forty feet 
high, perpendicular excepting in one place, where they 
were a little inclined. Above this formation of columns 
there was a stratum of volcanic stones and disintegrated 
basalt, of some six or eight feet thickness, lying in a con- 
fused state. Then upon this another section of basalt and 
amygdaloid of fifty feet depth, and so on to the height of 
three hundred feet, nearly perpendicular. The pentagons 
are as regularly formed, and have much the same appear- 
ance, as those composing the Giant's causeway in Ireland. 
From the best observations I could make, I was led to 
conclude that the different sections were raised, at differ- 
ent periods of time, by widely extended subterranean fires. 
The basalt in this place, and also in almost all other places, 
which I have yet seen, is of very dark color, containing 
augite, or black oxyd of iron; and is what Clarke and 
Lewis, and those who have copied from them, have called 
black rocks. 



128 CAMMA.S ROOT. 

Saturday, 3d. We took an early departure from our 
encampment, and had, through the day, an uncommonly 
high wind from the west, but a pleasant sun and clear at- 
mosphere. We have had no rain since the 12th of July, 
while on the east side of the mountains, and not more than 
five cloudy days. The water this side the Rocky Moun- 
tains is excellent, and no country can possess a climate 
more conducive to health. After passing over a somewhat 
hilly country well covered with grass, we encamped for 
the night, and for the Sabbath, in a fertile vale upon an 
upper branch of the Walla Walla river. Here we found 
three lodges of Nez Perces who were out on a hunt for 
deer, and the women were gathering cammas roots. This 
root in some degree resembles in taste and nutritive prop- 
erties the sweet potato, and constitutes a large item of food 
for the Indians throughout a considerable section of coun- 
try, on this side of Salmon river and the Salmon river 
mountains. The common tokens of friendship were in- 
terchanged, and they presented us a share of such food as 
they themselves had. 

Sabbath, Oct. 4th. We had public worship, at which 
all the men, women and children of three lodges attended. 
What there was of a truly spiritual nature in our worship, 
was known to the Searcher of hearts, but there was the 
appearance of devotion, and good attention was paid to 
what was said. It is affecting to see the anxiety these In- 
dians manifest to know what they must do to please God, 
and to obtain salvation. 

I employed part of the day in reading Vincent's Expla- 
nation of the catechism. This is an excellent compendium 
of divinity, and is too much neglected in families and Sab- 
bath Schools. 

Early, on the 5th, we pursued our journey down the 



VALLEY OF THE WALLA WALLA. 129 

Walla Walla river, through a beautiful valley of thirty- 
miles in extent, parts of which are overgrown with the 
common trees and shrubs of such locations, interspersed 
with wild roses. The prairie hen, the avoset, the robin, 
and varieties of smaller birds, seem to have selected this 
as a favorite retreat ; while the animals, which we have 
been seeking for game, desert this delightful place and find 
their dwellings on more rugged tracts. This spot im- 
pressed me favorably as the situation for the missionaries 
who should succeed me, and* in every thing but its popu- 
lousness would furnish advantages beyond any I have as 
yet seen. Indians of different tribes border on, and around, 
this valley, and the location is therefore less central for , 
any one of them. They might, however, be brought by 
degrees to collect and settle down around a mission station, 
when once it should be established. 

October 6th. We arose early and commenced our jour- 
ney with the animating hope of reaching Walla Walla, 
and of seeing civilized people before noon. Ascended 
the bluffs and passed over an undulating prairie of good 
soil, leaving the Walla Walla river to our left. As 
we drew near the Columbia river, the soil became more 
and more sandy. Before we arrived at the fort, my atten- 
tion was arrested by seeing cows and other cattle, in fine - 
order, feeding upon the 'bottom land ; and the sight was 
not only novel, after having been so long absent from civ- 
ilized life, but was the more interesting because unexpect- 
ed. As we came near the fort, the Indians fired their cus- 
tomary salute, and then rushed forward to the gate. Mr. 
P. C. Pambrun, the superintendent, met us, and gave me 
a kind welcome. I never felt more joy in entering a hab- 
itation of civilized men, whose language was not strange. 
I felt that I had cause of thankfulness, that God, in his 

6* 



130 FRIENDLY RECEPTION. 

great mercy, and by his watchful providence, had brought 
me in safety and with restored health to this place. Soon 
I was invited into another apartment to breakfast ; and it 
was truly pleasant again to sit in a chair, at a table spread 
with furniture, and such luxuries as bread and butter, su- 
gar and milk, of which I had been deprived for about 
three months. 

I arrived here in six months and twenty-three days after 
leaving home — forty-five days from Rendezvous — and 
twenty from entering the Salmon river mountains. 



FORT WALLA WALLA. 131 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Description of Walla Walla — the kind treatment of the Indians by the 
Hudson Bay Company — leave Walla Walla for Fort Vancouver — lo- 
quacious orator — rapids — introduction to the Cayuse Indians — morn- 
ing prospects — long rapids — Volcanic mountains — trial of Indian gen- 
erosity — arrival at the falls of the Columbia river — rousing effects of 
oratory — La Dalles — Boston trading company — remarkable subsi- 
dence — Cascades — Chenooks are the Flatheads and Nez Perces; 
dangerous rapids — Indian burying places — Pillar rock — interesting 
waterfall — sea fowl — arrive at Fort Vancouver. 

Fort Walla Walla is situated on the south side of the 
Columbia river, ten miles below the confluence of the Co- 
lumbia and Lewis' river, which last is commonly called, 
by the people belonging to the Hudson Bay Company, 
Nez Perce river ; and one mile above the Walla Walla 
river, in latitude 46° 2', longitude 119° 30'. The Fort 
is built of logs, and is internally arranged to answer the 
purposes of trade and domestic comfort, and externally for 
defense, having two bastions, and is surrounded by a stoc- 
cade. Two miles below the fort there is a range of 
mountains running north and south, w T hich, though not 
high, are yet of considerable magnitude ; and where the 
Columbia passes through, it is walled up on both sides 
with basalt, in many places three hundred feet perpen- 
dicular height. The soil for considerable distance around, 
with the exception of some strips of bottom land, is sandy, 
and for the want of summer rains is not productive. This 
establishment is not only supplied with the necessaries of 
life, but also with many of its conveniences. They have 
cows, horses, hogs, fowls, &c. and cultivate corn, pota- 



132 HUDSON BAY COMPANY. 

toes, and a variety of garden vegetables ; and might en- 
large these and other productions to a great extent. 
They also keep on hand dry goods and hardware, not only 
for their own convenience, but also for Indian trade. 
During most of the year they have a good supply of fish, 
and salmon of the first quality, in abundance. 

Wednesday, 7th. Continued in this place. Settled 
with my interpreter, gave presents to my Indians, and 
made arrangements for leaving to-morrow, in a canoe 
propelled by Indians belonging to the Walla Walla tribe, 
for Fort Vancouver, which is two hundred miles down the 
Columbia. 

Thus am I putting myself, without fear, into the hands 
of Indians, where a few years ago an escort of fifty men 
was necessary for safety, and shall have to pass places 
which have been battle grounds between traders and 
Indians. 

The gentlemen belonging to the Hudson Bay Company 
are worthy of commendation for their good treatment ot 
the Indians, by which they have obtained their friendship 
and confidence, and also for the efforts, which some few 
of them have made, to instruct thore about them in the 
first principles of our holy religion ; especially in regard 
to equity, humanity, and morality. This company is of 
long standing, have become rich in the fur trade, and 
intend to perpetuate the business; therefore they con- 
sult the prosperity of the Indians as intimately connected 
with their own. I have not heard, as yet, of a single 
instance of any Indians being wantonly killed by any 
of the men belonging to this Company. Nor have I 
heard any boasting among them of the satisfaction taken 
in killing or abusing Indians, that I have elsewhere 
heard. 

Thursday, 8th. My three Walla Walla Indians having 



A VOYAGE COMMENCED. 133 

got all things in readiness, mats, provisions, &c. furnished 
by the kindness of Mr. Pambrun, and he having given 
them their instructions, I went on board the canoe at nine 
o'clock in the morning, and having passed the usual salu- 
tations, we shoved off, and gently glided down the river, 
which here is three-fourths of a mile wide. I felt myself 
in a new situation — my horses dismissed — in a frail canoe 
upon the wide waters of the Columbia, subject to winds, 
and with rapids and falls on the way, and among stranger 
Indians, two hundred miles by water before I could expect 
to find any white men ; to pass through several nations 
whose languages are entirely different ; yet the change 
from horseback, for months over mountains and plains, 
through defiles and ravines, was anticipated with satis- 
faction. 

My three Indians were well acquainted with the river 
and with the art of managing the canoe. One of them 
understood the Nez Perce language tolerably well, was 
very loquacious and vain, and wished to be thought a man 
of importance. He told me he was to do the talking, and 
the other two were to do as he should direct. On account 
of his importance and loquacious habits I called him my 
orator. One of the other two, who took the stern and 
steered the canoe, was a stout, brawny, savage looking 
man, excepting the expression of his countenance, which 
was indicative of intelligence and good nature. The third, 
who took the bow, was an able and well disposed young 
man. The channel through the volcanic mountain, a little 
below the fort, is one of the wonders of nature ; how it was 
formed through the immensely hard basaltic rocks to the 
depth of about three hundred feet, and for the distance of 
two or three miles, remains unexplained. But my atten- 
tion was so much taken up with the boiling eddies and 
the varying currents, that I did not take those observations 



134 CAYUSE INDIANS. 

which under different circumstances might have been made, 
and which the scenery and phenomena demanded. In one 
place, as we passed out of the mountain channel, the river 
ran so rapidly over a rocky bed, and the water was so 
broken, that I thought it unsafe to continue in the canoe, 
and requested my Indians to put me ashore. My talking 
Indian said, " tois" (good.) I told him, waiitu tois,kap- 
seis, (not good, but bad.) But he still said, tois, tois, 
and I concluded, that they would not decline putting me 
on shore, if there was any particular danger. The man at 
the stern put off into the middle of the river, where the 
water was the smoothest, but where the current was equal- 
ly strong, and with his keen eye fixed upon the varying 
eddies, applied his brawny arms to the work ; and when- 
ever a change of his paddle from one side of the canoe to 
the other was necessary, it was done in the twinkling of 
an eye. Any failure of right management would have 
been disastrous ; but they kept the canoe in the right di- 
rection, and we shot down with such velocity, together 
with the breaking in of some water, as to cause solicitude. 
But this served to make the smooth parts, when we ar- 
rived at them, more pleasant, and to render my mind more 
tranquil in regard to future dangers. 

At two o'clock in the afternoon, we called at an en- 
campment of Cayuse Indians of about a dozen lodges. 
When we had come within hearing, my orator announced 
our approach and informed them who I was, and the ob- 
ject of my tour, and they must prepare to receive me with 
all due respect — that I was not a trader, and that I had 
not come with goods, but to teach them how to worship 
God. They arranged themselves in single file, the chiefs 
and principal men forward, then the more common men, 
next the women, according to their rank, the wives of 
chiefs, the old women, the young — and then the children 



MORNING PROSPECT. . 135 

according to age. All things being made ready, the sa- 
lute was fired, and I landed and shook hands with all, even 
the youngest children, many of whom, when they present- 
ed the hand, would turn away their faces through fear. I 
made them some presents, and bought of them some dried 
salmon and cranberries. These were the first cranberries 
I had seen west of the Rocky Mountains, and they were 
a grateful acid. The Indians expressed much satisfaction 
in seeing me, and the object of my coming among them. 
I told them I could not explain to them all I wished, but 
they must meet me next spring at Walla Walla, where I 
should have an interpreter, and then I would tell them 
about God. After again shaking hands with them, we 
went on our way. 

At five o'clock we landed upon the north shore, and en- 
camped near a large number of Nez Perce Indians, who 
came about me with the tokens of friendship and kindness, 
which characterize their nation. Among their acts of 
kindness they brought me wood, which in this section of 
the country is scarce ; and gathered small bushes and 
grass to make my bed upon. 

October 9th. We arose before day, and as soon as any 
light appeared, resumed our voyage down the river. The 
morning was pleasant, the country around open and diver- 
sified with rolling prairies, and the distant mountain tops 
were mellowed with the opening beams of the rising sun. 
It was a time for pleasing contemplations, such as banish- 
ed all feelings of solitude, although no sound broke upon 
the ear, except the regularly timed strokes of the paddles 
of my Indians, who were urging forward the canoe with 
an accelerated velocity, greater than the current of the 
river would have carried us. 

About the middle of the day, the silence was interrupted 
by the roar of a distant rapid, the sound of which continued 



136 RAPIDS. 

to increase, until the white breaking water was presented 
to view. For several miles the bed of the river was filled 
with rocks, and several rocky islands and shoals, among 
which the whirling and foaming water was forcing its 
way. The only part of the river, which presented any ap- 
pearance of safety, was along near the south shore. This 
had somewhat the appearance of a wake. My Indians 
made no movement for landing, but kept near the middle 
of the river. On my expressing some apprehensions of 
danger, they pointed toward the wake and said, "tois" I 
pointed forward and toward the north shore, and said, kap~ 
seis, (bad.) They answered, "az, kapseis ;" and with the 
language of signs accompanying their words, told me they 
would keep the canoe in the good water, and it would not 
fill, nor be drawn into the breakers. My confidence in 
their skill of management being well established, I made 
no objection to their going forward, and in a very short 
time we had passed the apparent danger, and were gliding 
along over the smooth surface on the south side of a large 
island, about six miles long. 

During the day, the country around was comparatively 
Level, covered with a black soil, which appears to have 
been formed by atmospheric agents decomposing the vol- 
canic substances, which so generally abound. This sec- 
tion of the country is well supplied with grass, which du- 
ring the summer drouth is converted into hay. Who can 
calculate the multitudes of cattle and sheep, which 
might be kept here summer and winter, with no other labor 
than the care of a few herdsmen and shepherds. We en- 
camped upon the north side of the river among some sand 
hills, a little below several lodges of the Walla Walla In- 
dians, to whom I had the usual and formal introduction. 

I was pleased to find Indians belonging to different 
tribes scattered along this river, living in harmony, with- 



HEAD WIND. 137 

out any feuds or jealousies. It speaks much in favor of 
their kind and peaceable dispositions. 

On the 10th/ we arose before day, after a night's com- 
fortable rest, and by the first breaking light had our bag- 
gage on board and were under Way. Towards the middle 
of the day we came to a more mountainous tract of coun- 
try, and at a place where the mountains crossed the river, 
were very rocky rapids, but by winding our way among 
islands near the north shore, we made a safe descent. 
About noon a head wind, which commenced in the fore- 
part of the the day, had become fresh, and the waves be- 
gan to multiply their white caps, so that it was dangerous 
navigation for our canoe, and we had to land and wait for 
a more favorable time. We encamped on the north side 
of the river, under a very high and romantic basaltic 
mountain ; in some parts near us the rocky walls were 
more than two hundred feet in perpendicular height — in 
one place hanging over. In some places, and at different 
altitudes of this immense wall, there were cavities of con- 
siderable magnitude, and in others, wide and deep fissures ; 
through one of which passes the road traveled by pedes- 
trians and those on horseback. This place is ten miles 
above the falls of the Columbia, which the Indians call 
the turn turn, the same expression they use for the beat- 
ing of the heart. 

About a mile above us, some Walla Wallas were en- 
camped, many of whom came to my tent and wished to 
enter into trade with me, offering beaver at a low price. 
I told them to trade was not my business, any farther than 
to buy Salmon, &c. for food. My orator told me one of 
them was a Meohot, a chief, and would expect a present. 
As a trial of their disposition, I told him they had not 
brought me any wood for a fire, and I would not give 
them any thing until they showed their kindness. But he 



138 TRIAL OF INDIAN GENEROSITY. 

said I must make the chief a present, and buy of them 
wood. I replied, waiitu, if he is a chief let him show 
the generosity of a chief. Very soon they brought wood, 
and a fire was made, which I followed with some pre- 
sents. 

Sabbath, 11th. We continued in the same encamp- 
ment, and my heart's desire was much excited for the sal- 
vation of these poor heathen. There was a sufficient 
number here to have made a decent congregation if I had 
possessed any medium of communication. Their language 
differs from the Nez Perces, so that I could have no com- 
munication with them except through my orator, who 
asked me if he should teach these Indians what he had 
learned about God and his worship. I gave him permis- 
sion, though I feared he was influenced more by love of 
distinction than any higher motive ; but still I would re- 
joice, if any true light should be imparted to them. 

I arose the latter part of the night of the 12th, and the 
weather being calm, and the moon shining pleasantly, we 
took our departure for the Falls, where we arrived some 
time before day. Above the Falls there is a large island, 
on the south side of which is a commodious bay, near 
which, and upon the river De Shutes, which here unites 
with the Columbia, there is a village of the Fall Indians 
of about thirty lodges. Here we landed, and my talker 
raised his oratorical voice to such a note as aroused the 
whole village, calling upon the chiefs to arise, and with 
their people receive the personage with him in due form. 
It was but a short time before their line was formed, the 
first chief leading the way, and others according to their 
rank and age following, and the ceremony of shaking 
hands was performed ; and all retired to their lodges 
again. 

There is a great want of neatness among Indians in 



LA DALLES. 139 

general, but more especially among those on this river, 
who live by fishing. 

Here we left our canoe, and took horses and proceeded 
by land, upon the south side of the river, passing by the 
Falls, and down the La Dalles, six miles. From the lower 
end of the island where the rapids begin, to the perpen- 
dicular fall, is about two miles ; and here the river con- 
tracts, when the water is low, to a very narrow space, and 
with only a short distance of swift water, it makes its 
plunge twenty feet or more perpendicular ; and then, after 
a short distance of rapids, dashing against the rocks, 
moves on in a narrow passage filled with rapids and 
eddies, among volcanic rocks, called the La Dalles, four 
miles ; and then spreads out into a gentle, broad channel. 
At the Falls and the La Dalles below, there are several 
portages, where boats and canoes, as well as baggage, 
have to be transported. The geological formation along 
this distance is singular. With the exception of a few 
high hills and bluffs, the shore and lands around are but 
little above the river in the freshet rise ; and yet the chan- 
nel of the river is through the hardest basalt and amygda- 
loid. Has this channel worn this solid rock formation 1 
If so, at what time? There is no appearance of the 
channel having worn perceptibly deeper, since the rocks 
from their melted state, were spread out into their present 
condition, which must have taken place centuries and 
centuries ago. As I have no confidence in theories 
founded upon conjecture, nor in Indian traditions, I leave 
the subject for others to tell us how these things took 
place. Former visiters, among whom I name Doct. Gard- 
ner, a learned English naturalist whom I saw at Oahu, 
Sandwich Islands, expressed his entire inability satisfac- 
torily to account for this peculiar phenomenon. Nor does 
the Indian tradition, that the Great Wolf made this, to- 



140 BOSTON TRADING COMPANY. 

gether with all the scenery that delighted my eye as I 
passed down the river, relieve the mind of its irrepressible 
curiosity. This is one of the best locations for salmon 
fishing, and great numbers of Indians collect in the 
season of taking them, which commences the last of 
April, or the first of May, and continues several months. 

At the lower part of the La Dalles, I found Captain 
Wyeth from Boston, with a small company of men going 
up the river to Fort Hall. Capt. Wyeth, who is an intel- 
ligent and sociable man, had the charge of the business of 
a company formed in Boston, for salmon fishing on the 
Columbia, and for trade and trapping in the region of the 
mountains. The plan of the company was to send a ship 
annually around Cape Horn into Columbia river, to bring 
out goods for trade, and to take home the salmon and furs 
which should be obtained during the year. It was expec- 
ted that the profits on the salmon would defray all com- 
mon expenses, and that the profits on the furs would be 
clear, and yield a handsome income. But thus far the en- 
terprise has been attended with many disasters, and the 
loss of many lives — several of the men were drowned, and 
others killed by Indians. 

Here I dismissed my Walla Walla Indians, to return, 
and Tilki, the first chief of the La Dalles Indians, engaged 
to furnish me with a canoe and men to carry me to Fort 
Vancouver. I spent the night with Capt. Wyeth, and 
obtained from him a short vocabulary of the Chenook lan- 
guage, to enable me to do common business with the In- 
dians residing along on the lower part of this river. 

Tuesday, 13th. I left at nine o'clock in the morning, 
in the canoe with three men furnished by Tilki, and made 
good progress down the river, which here flows in a wide 
and gentle current. Many parts of the way, the river is 
walled up with high and perpendicular basalt. At the 



UNUSUAL PHENOMENON. 141 

lower part of the La Dalles, commences a wooded country, 
which becomes more and more dense as we descend, 
and more broken with high hills and precipices. I ob- 
served a remarkable phenomenon— trees standing in their 
natural position* in the river, in many places where the wa- 
ter is twenty feet deep, and rising to a high or freshet 
water mark, which is fifteen feet above the low water. 
Above the freshet rise, the tops of the trees are decayed 
and gone. I deferred forming an opinion in regard to the 
cause, until I should collect more data. About the 
middle of the day a south wind began to blow, and 
continued to increase until it became necessary to go on 
shore and encamp, which we did about four in the after- 
noon. 

On the 14th, we did not make much progress on ac- 
count of wind and rain. We encamped in a cavern under 
a large projecting rock, the upper part of which was 
formed of basalt, the lower of conglomerate. Although 
this was at least six miles from the Cascades, yet the roar 
of the water could be distinctly heard. The same pheno- 
menon of the trees continued. I paid particular attention 
to the condition of the shores of the river, and the adjacent 
hills and mountains, to see if there were any escarpments 
presenting such condition as would furnish evidence of 
their having descended by landslips ; but as there were 
no such appearances, and the condition of the trees was 
the same where there were no hills and mountains near, I 
was led to conjecture, that I should find the river at the 
Cascades dammed up with volcanic productions • and I 
was induced to believe it would be found so, from the 
fact, that the river, the whole distance from the La 
Dalles, is wide and deep, and moves with a sluggish 
current. 

On the 15th, the wind and rain continuing through the 



142 REMARKABLE SUBSIDENCE. 

morning, I did not leave my encampment until noon, when 
we set forward and arrived at the Cascades at two o'clock 
in the afternoon. The trees, to-day, were still more nu- 
merous, in many places standing in deep water, and we 
had to pick our way with the canoe in some places, as 
through a forest. The water of the river is so clear, that I 
had an opportunity of examining their position down to 
the spreading roots, and found them in the same condition 
as when standing in the natural forest. As I approached 
the Cascades, instead of finding an embankment formed 
from volcanic eruptions, the shores above the falls were 
low, and the velocity of the water began to accelerate two- 
thirds of a mile above the main rapid. On a full exami- 
nation, it is plainly evident that here has been a subsidence 
of a tract of land, more than twenty miles in length, and 
about a mile in width. The trees standing in the water 
are found mostly towards and near the north shore, and 
yet, from the depth of the river and its sluggish movement, 
I should conclude the subsidence affected the whole bed. 
That the trees are not wholly decayed down to low water 
mark, proves that the subsidence is comparatively of recent 
date ; and their undisturbed, natural position, proves that 
it took place in a tranquil manner, not by any tremendous 
convulsion of natui^. The cause lies concealed, but the 
fact is plain. That parts of forests may in this way sub- 
merge, is evident from similar facts. The noted one on 
the eastern coast of Yorkshire and Lincolnshire, England, 
is about fifteen feet below low water mark, extending east- 
ward a considerable distance from the shore, in which 
stumps and roots of trees are seen in their natural position. 
So manifest is the evidence of great changes having taken 
place by volcanic power, in these regions west of the Rocky 
Mountains, both by upheaving and subsidence, that we 
are led to enquire whether there are not now such agents 



THE CASCADES. • 143 

in operation, and upon such materials, that the valleys 
shall be literally exalted, and the mountains be made low, 
and waters spring up in the deserts. 

The Cascades, so called to distinguish them from the 
Falls, do not differ materially from them, except in the 
wild romantic scenery around. There is no perpendicular 
fall, but the water concentrates, from its wide spread form, 
to a very narrow compass, and then rushes with great im- 
petuosity down an almost perpendicular precipice, twenty 
or thirty feet, and continues in a foaming and whirling de- 
scent most of the way five miles farther, where it meets 
the tide waters from the Pacific ocean. Above the falls, 
in the river, there are many islands, but none of them are 
very large — some are only volcanic rocks. The country 
about the Cascades, and many miles below, is very moun- 
tainous, especially on the south side. The volcanic peaks 
are as diversified in their shapes as they are numerous, 
being conical, denticulated, and needle-pointed, rising 
from one to fifteen hundred feet. While imagination gen- 
erally overdraws her pictures, nature here has furnished 
abundant seope for all her powers. 

A little above the Cascades, upon the north shore,' there 
is a small village of Chenooks. These Indians are the 
only real Flatheads and Nez Perces, I have found. They 
both flatten their heads and pierce their noses. The flat- 
tening of their heads is not so great a deformity as is gen- 
erally supposed. From a little above the eyes to the apex 
or crown of the head, there is a depression, but not gener- 
ally in adult persons very noticeable. The piercing of 
the nose is a greater deformity, and is done by inserting 
two small, tapering, white shells, about two inches long, 
through the lower part of the cartilaginous division of the 
nose. These shells are of the genus dentalium, they in- 
habit the Pacific shore, and are an article of traffic among 



144 THE PORTAGE. 

the natives. I called at this village to obtain men to car- 
ry our canoe by the portage of the Cascades. They wished 
to engage in trade with me in several articles of small 
value, which I declined, informing them that my business 
w r as of a different nature. While detained, the daughter 
of the chief, fancifully decked out in ornaments, and in all 
her pride and native haughtiness, walked to and fro to ex- 
hibit, to the best advantage, her fine, erect, and stately 
person. 

After considerable delay, I obtained four Indians to car- 
ry the canoe about one hundred rods by the principal rap- 
ids, or falls, for which I gave each five charges of powder 
and balls ; and an additional reward to one to carry a part 
of my baggage a mile and a half past the most dangerous 
rapids, to a basin just below another rapid, formed by large 
rocks confining the river to a very narrow passage, through 
which it rushes with great impetuosity. My Indians ran 
the canoe over this rapid. I was much concerned for 
their safety; but they chose to do it. Two years before, 
the men of the Hudson Bay Company cordelled several 
batteaux down this rapid — part of the men going in the 
boats, and part on the shore cordelling. The rope of one 
broke, and the batteau, in spite of the efforts of the men 
in it, was hurried out into the surging and whirling waves 
among the rocks — capsized and all were lost. 

I walked about four miles, until I had passed all the 
rapids of any special danger. About three-fourths of a 
mile below the uppermost cascade, following an Indian 
path, I came to a pleasant rise of ground, upon which 
were several houses of a village, inhabited only in time of 
taking salmon. They were both larger and far better con- 
structed than any I had seen in any Indian country. They 
were about sixty feet long, and thirty-five wide, the frame- 
work very well constructed and covered with split planks 



INDIAN BURYING PLACES. 145 

and cedar bark. A little back of these houses a small beau- 
tiful lake spreads itself out, on the surface of which some 
dozens of wild ducks were enjoying the quietness of its 
solitude. \ As I continued down the Indian path, at no 
great distance from the village, I came to several deposi- 
tories of their dead. They were built of plank split from 
balsam fir and cedar, about eight feet long, six wide, and 
five high, and well covered. At one end is what may be 
called a door, upon which are paintings of various devices, 
which do not appear to be designed for any other purpose 
than for ornament. Some had painting upon the sides as 
well as upon the doors. I had with me two Indians who 
paid no particular attention to them, more than we should 
in passing a burying ground. They pointed me to them, 
and made a short, solemn pause, without any actions which 
would indicate their paying homage to the pictures or any 
other object. The number of these depositories I did not 
ascertain, as many of them were so far decayed, as to be 
hardly distinguishable ; but there were eight or ten in 
good condition. Below this we passed several houses of 
less magnitude than those above ; and while the^ floors of 
those were on a level with the surface of the ground, these 
were sunk about four feet below, and the walls rose only 
about three feet above the ground. It would seem that 
these were designed for winter habitations, but at this 
time their occupants were all absent. At the distance of 
four miles below the main cataract, the country, on the 
north side, spreads out into a level, fertile plain, which 
near the river is a prairie, a little distance back covered 
with dense forests ; while on the south side of the river it 
is very mountainous. 

Toward the lower part of Brant island I re-embarked, 
and we proceeded a few miles farther, and encamped below 
Pillar rock, over against an extraordinary cascade of wa- 
7 



146 BEAUTIFUL WATERFALL. 

ter which descends the mountain from the south. Pillar 
rock is of basaltic formation, situated on the north side of 
the river, a few rods from the shore, on a narrow strip of 
rich bottom-land, wholly isolated, rising five hundred feet, 
on the river side perpendicular, and on the others nearly 
so. Upon all, except the river side, there are narrow off- 
sets upon which grow some cedars, and also a few upon 
the highest point. The base in proportion to the height, 
is very small, giving the whole the appearance of an enor- 
mous pillar. This is one of the astonishing wonders of 
volcanic operations. 

The cascade upon the south side of the river first strikes 
the view at an elevation of not less than a thousand feet ; 
and by several offsets the water descends in a white foam- 
ing sheet, at an angle of sixty or eighty degrees, present- 
ing the appearance of a white belt laid upon the side of 
the mountain. In two places the descent is perpendicu- 
lar ; the lowest is probably not less than two hundred feet, 
and before the stream reaches the bottom, it is dissipated 
into spray and disappears, until you see it again collecting 
itself at the foot of the mountain, and after wending its 
way a short distance, it unites with the Columbia. The 
whole scene, combining the ruggedness and wildness of 
nature's most romantic forms, with its most magnificent, 
filled my mind with admiration both of the work and its 
Author. 

On the morning of the 16th, I arose before day, called 
my Indians, and as soon as any light appeared, we again 
launched into the broad river, in our frail canoe. For 
about ten miles, the surrounding country was mountain- 
ous, forming bold shores, after which the mountains recede, 
and the river spreads out in some places from one to three 
miles wide, and an extensive region around presents the 
appearance of a rich soil well adapted to agriculture. 



CIVILIZATION. 147 

There are some fine prairies, but the greatest part is thick- 
ly wooded. In this part of the river are many fertile 
islands, some of which are large ; the current moves on 
gently, and the whole scenery around is fascinating. As 
I descended towards the Pacific ocean, water fowl, such 
as geese, swans, and a very great variety of ducks, began 
to multiply ; also every now and then seals made their 
appearance, so that I became cheered with the increasing 
exhibitions of animated nature, greater than I had witness- 
ed since leaving the buffalo country. Unexpectedly, 
about the middle of the day, on the north shore in a thick 
grove of large firs, I saw two white men, with a yoke of 
oxen, drawing logs for sawing. I hailed them, and en- 
quired of them the distance to Fort Vancouver. They re- 
plied, " only seven miles around yonder point, down that 
prairie." Soon we came to a large saw-mill, around which 
were large piles of lumber and several cottages. This 
looked like business upon a much larger scale than I had 
expected. I called a short time at this establishment, 
where I found several Scotch laborers belonging to the 
Hudson Bay Company, with their Indian families. Al- 
though it was then about noon, they offered me a break- 
fast of peas and fish, taking it for granted that men who 
travel these western regions, eat only when they can get 
an opportunity. At two in the afternoon, we arrived at 
Fort Vancouver, and never did I feel more joyful to set 
my feet on shore, where I expected to find a hospitable 
people and the comforts of life. Doct. J. McLaughlin, a 
chief factor and the superintendent of this fort, and of the 
business of the Company west of the Rocky Mountains, 
received me with many expressions of kindness, and invi- 
ted me to make his residence my home for the winter, and 
as long as it would suit my convenience. Never could 
such an invitation be more thankfully received. 



148 PROVIDENCE. 

It was now seven months and two days since I left my 
home, and during that time, excepting a few delays, I had 
been constantly journeying, and the last fifty-six days, 
with Indians only, I felt that I had great reason for grati- 
tude to God for his merciful providences toward me, in de- 
fending and so providing for me, that I had not greatly 
suffered a single day for the want of food. For months I 
had no bread nor scarcely any vegetables, and I often felt 
that a change and a variety would have been agreeable, 
but in no instance did I suffer, nor in any case was I 
brought to the necessity of eating dogs or horseflesh. In 
every exigency something wholesome and palatable was 
provided. 






FORT VANCOUVER. 149 



CHAPTER IX. 

Description of Fort Vancouver — departure for Fort George and mouth 
of the Columbia — mouths of the Multnomah — Wappatoo Island — 
May Dacre — Coffin Rock — Cowalitz river — Indian friendship — Pacific 
ocean — Gray's bay — Astoria. 

Fort Vancouver is situated on the north side of the Co- 
lumbia river, about sixty rods from the shore, upon a prai- 
rie of some few hundred acres, surrounded with dense 
woods. The country around for a great distance, is gen- 
erally level and of good soil, covered with heavy forests, 
excepting some prairies interspersed, and has a pleasant 
aspect. It is in north latitude 45° 37', and longitude 
122° 50', west from Greenwich — one hundred miles from 
the Pacific ocean. The enclosure is strongly stoccaded, 
thirty-seven rods long, and eighteen rods wide, facing the 
south. There are about one hundred white persons be- 
longing to this establishment, and an Indian population of 
three hundred in a small compass contiguous. There are 
eight substantial buildings within the enclosure, and a 
great number of small ones without. 

October 17th. After a night's rest in this fort, I left for 
Fort George, situated ninety-one miles below, near the 
confluence of the Columbia with the Pacific, known in the 
United States by the name of Astoria. I took this early 
departure that I might visit the lower part of the river and 
the sea coast, and return before the rainy season should 
commence ; and also to avail myself of a passage in the 
May Dacre, from Boston, Capt. Lambert, a brig belonging 
to Captain Wyeth and Company, which was lying twen- 



150 WAPPATOO ISLAND. 

ty-three miles below, at the lowest mouth of the Multno- 
mah. Mr. J. K. Townsend, an ornithologist from Phila- 
delphia, accompanied me to the brig. Our canoe was 
large and propelled by Sandwich Islanders, of whom there 
are many in this country, who have come here as sailors 
and laborers. Five miles below the fort, we passed the 
main branch of the Multnomah. It is a large river, coming 
from the south, and is divided by islands into four branches 
at its confluence with the Columbia. Here commences 
the Wappatoo island, so called from a nutritive root found 
in the small lakes in the interior, which is much sought 
for by Indians as an article of food. This island is about 
eighteen miles long, and five miles wide, formed by a part 
of the Multnomah, branching off about six miles up the 
main river, running in a westerly and north-westerly 
direction, and uniting with the Columbia eighteen miles 
below the main branch. The branch which flows around 
and forms the island, is about fifteen rods wide, and of 
sufficient depth for small shipping, most of the year. It 
was upon this island the Multnomah Indians formerly re- 
sided, but they have become as a tribe extinct. The land 
is very fertile, and most of it sufficiently high to be free 
from injury by the June freshet. Some parts of it are 
prairie, but the greatest part is well wooded with oak, ash, 
balsam fir, and the species of poplar, P. balsamifera, often 
called balm of Gilead, and by most travelers, cotton- 
wood. At the south-west of this island, there is a range 
of mountains which render a space of the country broken, 
but beyond these, it is said by hunters, that there is an ex- 
tensive valley well adapted to agriculture. 

We arrived at the landing place of the May Dacre, at 
five o'clock in the afternoon, and were politely received 
on board by Capt. Lambert. The brig was moored along- 
side a natural wharf of basalt. 






MAY DACRE. 151 

Sabbath, October 18th. Part of the day I retired to a 
small prairie back from the river, to be free from the noise 
of labor in which the men were engaged in preparing for 
their voyage ; and part of it I passed in the state room 
which was assigned me. There is much reason to lament 
the entire disregard manifested by many towards God's 
holy Sabbath. His justice will not always be deferred. 
Those who will not submit to divine authority, must reap 
the fruit of their disobedience. None can slight and abuse 
the mercy of God with impunity. 

Monday, 19th. The brig fell down the river with the 
tide, about three miles, but, for the want of wind, an- 
chored. In the afternoon I went on shore for exercise 
taking with me a kanaka, that is, a Sandwich islander, for 
assistance in any danger. I made a long excursion 
through woods and over prairies, and found the country 
pleasant and fertile. The grass on the prairies was green, 
and might furnish subsistence for herds of cattle. When 
will this immensely extended and fertile country be 
brought under cultivation, and be filled with an industrious 
population ? From time immemorial, the natives have 
not stretched forth a hand to till the ground, nor made an 
effort to cause the earth to yield a single article of produce, 
more than that which springs up spontaneously ; nor will 
they until their minds are enlightened by divine truth. 
No philanthropist who is not under the influence of Chris- 
tian principles, will ever engage in the self-denying work 
of enlightenin g their minds, and arousing them from their 
indolence. As on our frontiers, so on these w r estern shores, 
the work of destruction, introduced by those who would be 
called the friends of man, is going forward. The Indians 
in this lower country, that is, below the Cascades, are 
only the remnants of once numerous and powerful na- 
tions. 



152 DEER ISLAND COFFIN ROCK. 

The evening was clear and pleasant, which gave us an 
opportunity to see the comet which was observed by Hal- 
ley in the year 1682, and which was seen again in 1759, 
and now in 1835, proving its time of revolution to 
be about seventy-six and a half years. Its train of 
light was very perceptible, and about twelve degrees in 
length. 

We had a favorable wind on the 20th, which, with the 
current of the river, enabled us to make good progress on 
our way. Among the many islands with which the lower 
part of this river abounds, Deer Island, thirty-three miles 
below Fort Vancouver, is worthy of notice. It is large, 
and while it is sufficiently wooded along the shores, the 
interior is chiefly a prairie covered with an exuberant 
growth of grass and vines of different kinds, excepting 
the grape, of which there is no indigenous species west of 
the Rocky Mountains. In the interior of this island there 
are several small lakes, the resort of swans, geese, and 
ducks. This island was formerly the residence of many In- 
dians, but they are gone, and nothing is left except the re- 
mains of a large village. 

Among some interesting islands of basalt, there is one 
called Coffin Rock, twenty-three miles below Deer island, 
situated in the middle of the river, rising ten or fifteen feet 
above high freshet water. It is almost entirely covered 
with canoes in which the dead are deposited, which cir- 
cumstance gives it its name. In the section of country 
from Wappatoo island to the Pacific ocean, the Indians, 
instead of committing the dead to the earth, deposit them 
in canoes, and these are placed in such situations as are 
most secure from beasts of prey ; upon such precipices as 
this island, upon branches of trees, or upon scaffolds made 
for the purpose. The bodies of the dead are covered with 



CAPT. LAMBERT AND THE SKILLOOT CHIEF. 153 

mats, and split planks are placed over them. The head 
of the canoe is a little raised, and at the foot there is a hole 
made for water to escape. 

A few miles below Coffin island, the Cowalitz, a river 
coming from the north-east, flows into the Columbia, 
which is about thirty rods wide, deep, and navigable for 
boats a very considerable distance. The country up this 
river is said to equal, in richness of soil, any part of the 
Oregon Territory, and to be so diversified with woods and 
prairies, that the farmer could at once reap the fruits of his 
labor. 

On account of numerous sand-bars and windings of the 
navigable channel, we anchored for the night. The even- 
ing was cloudy and there was the appearance of a gather- 
ing storm ; but we were so surrounded with high hills 
that the situation was considered safe. 

The wind on the 21st, was light, and our progress 
therefore was slow. This section of the country is moun- 
tainous, the ranges running nearly from the south-east to 
the north-west, and covered with a very dense and heavy 
growth of wood, mostly fir and oak. A chief of the Skil- 
loots with a few of his people came on board. He was 
very talkative and sportive. When he was about to leave, 
he told Capt. L. that as they had been good friends, and 
were now about to separate, he wished a present. Capt. 
L. told his steward to give him a shirt. The chief took it 
and put it on, and then said, " how much better would a 
new pair of pantaloons look with this shirt." The cap- 
tain ordered him the article asked for. Now, said the 
chief, " a vest would become me and increase my influ- 
ence with my people." This was also given. Then he 
added, " well, Tie*, I suppose we shall not see each other 

* Chief, or gentleman. 

7* 



154 PILLAR ROCK. 

again, can you see me go away without a clean blanket, 
which would make me a full dress." The captain an- 
swered, " go about your business ; for there is no end to 
your asking so long as I continue to give." Then the 
chief brought forward a little son, and said, (i he is a good 
boy ; will you not make him a present ?" Capt. L. gave 
them a few small articles, and they went away rejoicing 
over the presents which they had received, instead of re- 
gretting the departure of the May Dacre. We passed to- 
day, Pillar Rock, which stands in the river, isolated, more 
than half a mile from the north shore, composed of basalt, 
and is about forty feet high, and fifteen in diameter. We 
anchored a few miles below. 

On the morning of the 22d, we waited for a favorable 
tide until nine o'clock, when we got under way with a 
brisk wind from the east. Here the river begins to spread 
out into a bay, but owing to many shoals, the navigation 
is difficult. We ran aground, but the increase of the tide 
set us afloat again, and soon the great Pacific ocean 
opened to our view. This boundary of ; the " far west," 
was to me an object of great interest; and when I looked 
upon the dark rolling waves, and reflected upon the vast 
expanse of five thousand miles, without an intervening 
island until you arrive at the Japau coast, a stretch of 
thought was required, like contemplating infinity. Like 
the vanishing lines of perspective, so is contemplation lost 
in this extent of ocean. 

As we proceeded on our way, we left Gray's bay at the 
right, extending inland to the north some few miles, in 
which, on a voyage of discovery, the ship Columbia an- 
chored, and from whose commander the bay took its name. 
Nearly opposite we passed Tongue Point, which extends 
ibout two miles into the bay or river from the south. It is 



ASTORIA. lo5 

considerably elevated, rocky and covered with woods. 
Soon after this, Astoria was announced. My curiosity 
was excited. I looked, but could not discover what to all 
on board was so plainly seen — I blamed my powers of 
vision — and reluctantly asked the captain where is Asto- 
ria 1 " Why," he replied, " right down there — that is 
Astoria !" I saw two log cabins, and said within myself, 
is thai the far-fain^d " New York of the west 1" 



156 FORT GEORGE. 



CHAPTER X. 

Description of Fort George — mouth of the Columbia — dangerous bar- 
mountainous coast — varieties of timber — good location for a mission- 
ary station — continued rains — dense forests- — excursion in a canoe 
down the bay — view of the coast — disasters at the entrance of the 
Columbia — ship William and Anne — ship Isabella — Tonquin — Japa- 
nese junk — reflections — water fowl — return to Fort Vancouver— - 
the regard Indians show the dead — Indian kindness. 

When we arrived in the small bay, upon which Fort 
George (Astoria) is situated, Captain L. manned a boat to 
take me on shore, in which he also embarked to pay his 
respects to the governor, who had the politeness to meet 
us at the landing, and invited us, with hearty welcome, to 
his dwelling. After having interchanged the customary 
salutations, and made a short stay, the captain re-embark- 
ed and made his way for Cape Disappointment ; and the 
wind and tide being favorable, he passed the dangerous 
bar without any delay, and shaped his course for Boston. 
Fort George is situated on the south side of the bay, ten 
miles from Cape Disappointment, is without any fortifica- 
tions, has only two small buildings made of hewed logs ; 
about two acres cleared, a part of which is cultivated with 
potatoes and garden vegetables. It is occupied by two 
white men of the Hudson Bay Company, for the purpose 
of trade with the few remaining Indians who reside about 
these shores. Though this is the present condition of As- 
toria, yet the time must come, when at the mouth of this 
noble river there will be a commercial city, and especial- 
ly may this be expected, as this bay affords the only good 
harbor for a long distance on this coast. I should think 



MOUTH OF THE COLUMBIA. 157 

the north side of the bay, a little above the cape, adjoin- 
ing what is called Baker's bay, would be the most desira- 
ble location for a town, as that is the safest place for ships 
to ride at anchor ; and on that side, the country is more 
open and pleasant for a commercial town. On the south 
side, where Astoria was located, the mountains or high 
hills come down very near the shore, are rocky and pre- 
cipitous, preventing a southern prospect, and in the short 
winter days of a north latitude of 46° 17', they almost ex- 
clude the sun. 

A difficulty, of a nature that is not easily overcome, ex- 
ists in regard to the navigation of this river, namely, the 
sand-bar at its entrance. It is about five miles across the 
bar from Cape Disappointment out to sea. In no part of 
that distance is the water upon the bar over eight fathoms 
deep, in one place only five, and the channel is only about 
half a mile wide. And so wide and open is the ocean, that 
there is always a heavy swell, and when the wind is above 
a gentle breeze, there are breakers quite across the bar, , 
so lhat there is no passing it except when the wind and 
tide are both very favorable. Without the bar there is no 
anchorage, and there have been instances, in the winter 
season, of ships laying off and on, thirty days, waiting for 
an opportunity to pass ; a good pilot is always needed. 
Perhaps there have been more lives lost here, in propor- 
tion to the number of those who have entered this river, 
than in entering almost any other harbor in the world. 
But the calamities have been less frequent for some years 
past, than formerly ; and should a steam-boat be stationed 
at the cape, to tow vessels over, when business shall be 
sufficiently multiplied to warrant the expense, the delays 
and dangers would be greatly diminished. 

The main bay is four miles wide at the mouth of the 
river, between Cape Disappointment and Point Adams ; 



158 VARIETIES OF TIMBER. 

extends sixteen miles up the river ; is nine miles wide be- 
tween Chenook bay on the north, and Young's bay on the 
south j and seven miles wide between Fort George and 
Chenook point. It is rilled with many sand-bars, and one, 
which is called Sand Island, a little within the capes, seen 
only when the tide is down, is dangerous to ships when 
not in the charge of skilful pilots. 

The section of country about the sea coast is rough 
and mountainous, and covered with the most heavy and 
dense forest of any part of America of which I have any 
knowledge. The trees are almost all of the genus pinus, 
but I saw none of the species commonly called pine, any 
where below the Cascades. The balsam fir, of which 
there are three species, constitute the greatest part of the 
forests trees. White cedar, spruce, hemloc, and yew, are 
interspersed. Three species of oak, of which the white is 
most common, prevail in most sections ; and in some low 
bottom-lands, the species of poplar, called the balm of 
Gilead, or bitter cotton wood, predominates. The balsam 
fir grows very large ; not unfrequently four and six feet 
in diameter, and two hundred feet high. I measured one 
which was eight feet in diameter, and about two hundred 
and fifty feet high. As I do not here intend to enter up- 
on the dendrology of this country, I omit farther remarks 
upon this subject for the present. 

The quality of the land is good ; and some tracts of this 
mountainous, iron-bound coast, might easily be brought 
under cultivation. One section lies about Young's bay, 
extending to and about Point Adams. This would be a 
favorable location for a missionary station, where access 
could be had to the Clatsop and Killamook Indians, who 
are said to be numerous. 

At this season of the year, there are but few Indians 
who reside about this trading post, finding it more for their 



LAND EXCURSION. 159 

comfort to retire into the forests during the rainy season 
of the winter, locating themselves upon small prairies 
along rivers and streams, where fuel is easily obtained, and 
where some game is found to add to their winter's stock 
of provisions. 

During my continuance in this place it was my inten- 
tion to cross the bay over to Chenook point, and from 
thence down to Cape Disappointment, which it is said af- 
fords a very extensive and interesting prospect. But from 
day to day it rained, and the high winds created such a 
sea in the whole bay, that it was not safe to attempt a 
passage. 

On the 24th, the wind was high, and the weather very 
uncomfortable, and in the afternoon the storm increased, 
accompanied with snow, which, however, melted as fast 
as it fell. The sea fowl appeared to be alarmed by the 
severity of so early and unexpected a storm of snow, and 
came in from the ocean in great numbers, flying and 
screaming, as if in search of a safe retreat. 

The storm being somewhat abated, on the 26th, Mr. 
Dunn, the superintendent of the fort, and myself, took our 
rifles to go back into the woods to hunt deer for exercise. 
But so dense was the forest, so filled and interwoven with 
various vines and shrubbery, that it was next to impossi- 
ble to make any progress, and we did not penetrate the 
woods more than a mile, before we gave up the object, and 
turned our course back, but our return, with diligent ef- 
forts, occupied some hours. If a luxuriant growth of trees 
and shrubbery is indicative of a rich soil, no part of the 
world can surpass the country around these shores. 

The morning of the 27th was pleasant and inviting for 
a water excursion ; yet in view of the sudden changes of 
weather, which are common at this season of the year, I 
did not think best to cross the wide bay, but took four 



160 A WATER EXCURSION. 

Chenook Indians, and a half breed named Thomas Pish 
Kiplin, who could speak English, and went in a large 
canoe down to Clatsop and Point Adams, nine miles from 
the fort. There was a gentle wind from the east, which 
favored hoisting a small sail. This gave us a pleasant sail 
until it increased to the rate of eight miles an hour; by 
this time the waves had become so high, and the white 
caps were so numerous, that, to one not acquainted with 
nautical adventures, the danger in a canoe appeared immi- 
nent. We could only run before the wind, and when we 
were upon the top of one wave, it seemed the next plunge 
would be fatal. Fears were of no avail in this situation, 
and I therefore kept up such conversation as was calcula- 
ted to suppress any which might arise in the minds of the 
men. It was interesting to see how the Indians would 
take the waves with their paddles so as to favor the safe- 
ty of the canoe. But our rapid progress soon brought us 
to the shore near Point Adams. Here a new and unex- 
pected difficulty presented itself, and this was the almost 
utter impracticability of effecting a landing in the high 
surf; but my skilful mariners watched an opportunity to 
shoot the canoe forward as far as possible on a flowing 
wave, and as soon as it broke, they leaped into the water, 
seized the canoe, lightened it over the returning surge, 
and drew it up beyond the reach of the waves. This 
management was an occular demonstration of the skill of 
Indians on dangerous seas. I took Kiplin with me and 
walked several miles on the hard and smooth sandy beach, 
so far around to the south, that I had a view of the coast 
north and south, as far as the eye could reach. High ba- 
saltic rocks, in most parts perpendicular, lined the shores. 
Who reared these volcanic walls but that Being, who sets 
bounds to the sea, and has said, " hitherto shalt thou come, 
but no farther, and here shall thy proud waves be stayed." 



LOSS OF THE WILLIAM AND ANNE. 161 

This vast expanse of ocean and these stupendous works of 
God fill the mind with awe. 

In returning, I walked several miles beyond the place 
where we landed, along the shore towards Young's bay, 
and went on board the brig Lama, Captain McNeil, which 
was on its way up the fort. In my excursion about Clat- 
sop and Point Adams, I saw several canoes containing 
the dead, deposited as I have already described. 

I have mentioned the bar at the mouth of the Columbia, 
and Sand Island, as dangerous to those who were not well 
acquainted with the entrance into this river. In the year 
1828, the ship William and Anne was cast away a little 
within the bar. All on board, twenty-six in number, were 
lost, and it could not be ascertained what were the circum- 
stances of the lamentable catastrophe, as no one was left 
to tell the story. There were conjectures that after the 
ship had run aground, the Indians, for the sake of plunder, 
killed the crew. This is only conjecture ; but it is very 
strange that none escaped, as they were not far from the 
shore, and the beach was sandy. The Indians carried off 
and secreted whatever of the goods they could find. The 
men of the Hudson Bay Company sent to the chiefs to de- 
liver up what they had taken away. They sent to Dr. 
McLaughlin at Fort Vancouver two small articles of no 
value. Dr. M. with an armed force went down to the 
Chenooks and demanded a surrender of the goods. The 
chief, with his warriors, put himself in an attitude of resis- 
tance, and fired upon the men of the Hudson Bay Com- 
pany. They returned the fire with a swivel, not to injure 
them, but to let them know with what force they had to 
contend, if they persisted in their resistance. On this the 
Indians all fled into the woods. Dr. McLaughlin with his 
men landed and searched for the goods, many of which 



162 ISABELLA AND TONQUIN. 

they found. Whilst they were searching, the chief was 
seen skulking and drawing near ; he cocked his gun, but 
before he had time to fire, one of the white men shot him 
down. None besides were hurt. This was done, as the 
Hudson Bay Company say, not so much for saving the 
value of the property, as to teach the Indians not to ex- 
pect profit from such disasters, and to take away tempta- 
tion to murder white men for the sake of plunder. 

On the 23d of May, 1830, the ship Isabella was cast 
away upon a sand-bar projecting from Sand Island, which 
is a little within the capes. As soon as she struck, the 
men all deserted her, and without stopping at Fort George, 
made their way to Fort Vancouver. It is thought, that if 
they had remained on board and waited the tide, she might 
have been preserved. The cargo was mostly saved. 

In 1811, the Tonquin, sent out from New York by Mr. 
Astor, to form a fur trading establishment at or near the 
mouth of this river, lost eight men in crossing the bar. 
The calamity resulted from the ignorance of Captain Thorn 
of the dangers, and his great want of prudence. 

About thirty miles south of this river, are the remains 
of a ship sunk not far from the shore. It is not known by 
whom she was owned, nor from what part of the world 
she came, nor when cast away. The Indians frequently 
get beeswax from her, and it is highly probable that she 
was from some part of Asia. 

A Japanese junk was cast away, fifteen miles south of 
Cape Flattery in March, 1833. Out of seventeen men 
only three were saved. In the following May, Captain 
McNeil, of the Lama, brought the three survivors to Fort 
Vancouver, where they were kindly treated by the gentle- 
men of the Hudson Bay Company, and in the following 
October were sent to England, to be forwarded to their 



JAPANESE. 163 

own country and home.* This junk was loaded with rich 
China ware, cotton cloths, and rice. In the same year 
eleven Japanese, in distress, were drifted in a junk to 
Oahu, Sandwich Islands. It is not very uncommon that 
junks and other craft have been found by whale ships in 
the great Pacific ocean, the crews in a state of starvation, 
without the nautical instruments and skill necessary to en- 
able them to find their way to any port of safety. Un- 
doubtedly many are entirely lost, while others, drift to 
unknown shores. 

May not such facts throw light upon the question of the 
original peopling of America, which has engaged the at- 
tention of men for a long period. While one man demon- 
strates to his own satisfaction, that the first inhabitants of 
this continent must have crossed from the north-east part 
of Asia, because of the resemblance of the people to each 
other, and the ease with which the straight is passed in 
canoes; another with no less certainty, proves from the 
diversity of languages, from the impossibility of tracing 
their origin, and from other reasons, that an equatorial 
union of Africa and America must have existed in some 
age of the world since the universal deluge, and that some 
violent convulsion of nature has since dissevered them. 
Others would recognize in the aborigines of this continent 



*From documents which have come to hand, since the publication of 
the first edition of this work, I have been led to admire the wisdom of 
Providence, as developed in the ca3e of these three Japanese. On their 
way to their'couutry, they were brought to Macao. It is a well known 
fact that the missionaries have been endeavoring to gain access to the 
Island of Jappan, and to obtain the means of acquiring the language of 
the inhabitants. These three Japanese having been so long in foreign 
countries, were afraid to go to their own country, without permission 
from their government, and therefore Mr. Gutzlaff was enabled to ob- 
tain them as teachers, and to assist him in translating the Scriptures, 
and tracts, for distribution among the otherwise inaccessible population 
of Japan, and thus to impart to them the riches of the Gospel of Jesus 
Christ. 



164 GEESE, SWANS, DUCKS, ETC. 

the descendants of the Jews, and industriously trace in 
their customs, the ancient worship and rites of God's pe- 
culiar people. But from whatever single or numerical 
causes they have [had their origin, their own traditions, 
and the histories of more civilized nations, seem alike un- 
able to inform^ us. Physical causes alone, we think, are 
adequate to account for the many features of resemblance 
which they possess, though they might at different and 
distant periods of time, have been drifted, or in some man- 
ner found their way, from remote countries. Some see in 
the aborigines of this country the confirmation of their fa- 
vorite theory, that human institutions and states, like hu- 
man and vegetable nature, have their birth, growth, matu- 
rity, and decay; and believe that, as it respects these 
tribes, these tendencies have already, for centuries, been 
in operation to produce their extinction. 

About this time of the year, water fowl of various gen- 
era and species begin to visit the bays and lagoons, and as 
the season advances, they gradually proceed into the inte- 
rior of the country, where the rivers and lakes abound with 
them. Geese, swans, ducks, and gulls, wing their way 
over us, and their screams, particularly those of the swans, 
are at times almost deafening. The swan is not of the 
species common in the United States. It is the Bewick's 
swan, and is characterized by the same unsullied plumage ; 
its attitudes and motions, while sailing over its liquid ele- 
ment, are equally graceful, and its voice is even louder 
and more sonorous. Of the geese there are four kinds ; 
the white, white fronted, the Canada, and Hutchins. Of 
the ducks, there are the black or surf duck, the canvass- 
back, the blue-bill, the long tailed, the harlequin, the pin- 
tail, and the golden-eyed. The number of these water 
fowl is immense, and they may be seen on the wing, 
swimming upon the waters, or searching for food along 



RETURN TO FORT VANCOUVER. 165 

the shores. They constitute a large item of Indian living 
and trade, and find a conspicuous place upon the tables of 
the gentlemen engaged in the fur business. 

Wednesday, October 28th. I took passage on board a 
canoe, going to Fort Vancouver, on an express from the 
Lama, recently arrived from a northern voyage to and 
about Queen Charlotte's Island. The canoe was large, 
carrying about fifteen hundred weight including men and 
baggage, manned by three white men and three Indians. 
The day was more pleasant than for some time past, a 
favorable circumstance for passing through the bay, and 
around Tongue Point, where the current was so strong 
that it required the full exertion of the men to double it. 
Ten miles further we passed Pillar Rock, a few miles above 
which we encamped on the north side, where the moun- 
tains come down so close to the shore, that I hardly found 
space to pitch ray tent above high tide water. The men 
made a large fire, which was cheering and most welcome, 
and the supper which they prepared was eaten with a 
keener appetite than many a one amidst all the ap- 
pliances of wealth and luxury. 

On the 29th we arose before day, and were willing to 
take an early departure from a place where tide and 
mountains disputed the territory. By diligently pursuing 
our w T ay until eight in the evening, we made forty-five 
miles. This was a great day's work in going up the river 
against the current, which is strong when the tide is set- 
ting out. I noticed on my return, a singular rocky point 
on the north shore, a short distance below the Cowalitz, 
rising nearly perpendicular about one hundred feet sepa- 
rated from the adjacent high hills, and very much in 
the form of Coffin Rock. It was covered with canoes 
containing the dead These depositories are held in 
great veneration by the Indians. They are not chosen 



166 REGARD FOR THE DEAD. 

for convenience, but for security against ravenous beasts ; 
and are often examined by the friends of the deceased, to 
see if the remains of the dead repose in undisturbed quiet. 
And such is their watchful care, that the anatomist could 
rarely make depredations without detection, or with impu- 
nity. And if they have such regard for the dead, are 
they without affection for their living relatives and friends ? 
Are they " callous to all the passions but rage V 9 Are 
they " steeled against sympathy and feeling V 9 And have 
they no happiness except what "exists in the visionary 
dreaming of those, who never contemplated their actual 
condition V 9 Have those, who charge upon the Indian 
character " sullen gloom, want of curiosity and surprise 
at what is new or striking," had extensive personal ac- 
quaintance with many different Indian nations and tribes? 
and have they gained their familiar friendship and confi- 
dence ? I am firm in the belief, that the character of un- 
abused and uncontaminated Indians will not lose in com- 
parison with any other nation that can be named; and 
the only material difference between man and man, is pro- 
duced by the imbibed principles of the Christian religion. 
Wishing to avail ourselves of calm weather and a favor- 
able moon, we kept on our way in the evening until thick- 
ening clouds and descending rain admonished us of the 
necessity of finding an encamping place ; and while doing 
this, we ran upon a log, which came very near upsetting 
us in deep water. But by two men getting out upon the 
Jog and lifting the canoe, with much exertion we got off 
safely. After passing round a point, we saw a light on 
the north shore, to which we directed our course and lan- 
ded, where we found a small company of Indians encamp- 
ed under a large projecting rock, giving shelter from the 
storm. They kindly shared their accommodations with 
us, and my tent was pitched under the concavity of the 



INDIAN KINDNESS. 107 

rocks ; and mats, skins, and blankets, though spread upon 
small stones, made me a comfortable bed. A good fire 
and a refreshing supper obliviscited the labors of the day 
and the dangers of the evening. 

We arose on the 30th before day, and although the 
morning was rainy, yet it was sufficiently calm for the ex- 
press to prosecute their voyage. I arranged my mats and 
skins so as to shield myself and baggage from the rain ; 
but the men, whose business it was to propel the canoe, 
were exposed to the storm. After a few hours' labor and 
exposure, we arrived at the place where the May Dacre 
had made her harbor, near which the southern section of 
the Willamette discharges its waters into the Columbia. 
We brought our canoe into a small bay indented in the 
basaltic rocks, and drew it so far upon the shore, that it 
was thought safe without any other security ; and all hast- 
ened to kindle a fire in a thatched building, which was 
constructed by some Kanakas for the accommodation of 
the May Dacre. This shelter was very desirable to pro- 
tect us from the storm, and to give the men an opportuni- 
ty to dry their clothes. Whilst we were preparing and 
eating our breakfast, the flowing tide, which swells the 
river and slackens the current, but does not stop it, took 
our canoe from its moorings, and drifted it a considerable 
distance down the river. Some indians whose residence 
was far up the Cowalitz, and who were descending the 
river in their canoes, saw it and returned with it before 
we knew that it was gone. This act proved them to be 
susceptible of kindness, and increased my confidence in 
their integrity. The canoe contained valuable baggage, 
and we should have been left without any means of going 
on our way. We could not have crossed the Willamette 
nor the Columbia river, and if this had been accomplished, 
still to have attempted a return by land would have been 



168 



ARRIVAL AT VANCOUVER. 



an almost hopeless undertaking, as the forest had an un- 
dergrowth which rendered it quite impassable. The In- 
dians are so much accustomed to travel in canoes, that 
even the poor accommodation of a trail was not to be found 
here, and we should have been compelled to dispute every 
inch of the way with our hatchets. Before the middle of 
the day, the storm abated, and the remainder of our way 
to Fort Vancouver was pleasant, at which place we ar- 
rived before evening. We were less than three days in 
accomplishing the passage from one fort to the other, and 
these were the only three calm days for a long time before 
and after. 



WINTER QUARTERS. 169 



CHAPTER XL 

Review of journeyings — school— journey up the Willamette — walk 
upon the pebbly shores — falls— settlement on the Willamette — Me- 
. thodist mission — epidemic— voyage down the river — hospitality of 
Wanaxka — construction of his house — Fort William on the Wap- 
patoo island — astonishing thirst for ardent spirits — return to Fort 
Vancouver. 

Here, by the kind invitation of Dr. McLaughlin, and 
welcomed by the other gentlemen of the Hudson Bay 
Company, I took up my residence for the winter, intend- 
ing to make such excursions as the season will admit and 
the objects of my tour demand. As this is the principal 
trading post of the company, west of the Rocky Moun- 
tains, it may be expected, that many Indians from different 
parts of the country for considerable distance around, will 
be seen here during the winter, and more information may 
be obtained of their character and condition than in any 
other course I could pursue. Here also traders from dif- 
ferent stations west of the mountains will come in for new 
supplies, of whose personal acquaintance with Indians I 
may avail myself. 

Sabbath, November 1st. By invitation, I preached to 
a congregation of those belonging to this establishment 
who understand English. Many of the laborers are 
French Canadians, who are Roman Catholics, and under- 
stand only the French Language. 

This trading post presents an important field of labor, 
and if a Christian influence can be exerted here, it may be 
of incalculable benefit to the surrounding Indian popula.- 
8 



170 REVIEW OF JOURNEYINGS. 

tion. Let a branch of Christ's kingdom be established 
here, with its concomitant expansive benevolence exerted 
and diffused, and this place would be a centre from which 
divine light would shine out and illumine this region of 
darkness. This is an object of so much importance, that 
all my powers, and energies, and time, must be employed 
for its accomplishment ; so that I do not feel that I have a 
winter of idle confinement before me. 

Monday, 2d. In taking a review of my journeyings 
since I left my home, I can say, though long in time and 
distance, yet they have been pleasant and full of interest. 
So diversified has been the country through which I have 
passed, and so varied the incidents, and so few real hard- 
ships, that the time and distance have both appeared short. 
Although this mission was thought to be one which would 
probably be attended with as great if not greater dangers 
and deprivations than any which had been sent into any 
part of the world, yet my sufferings have been so small, 
and my mercies so great, that I can say, if this is taking 
up the Cross, let none be dismayed ; for surely Christ's 
yoke is easy and his burden light. I had thought much 
on the prospect of having an opportunity to see whether 
I could " rejoice in sufferings" for the heathen, " and fill 
up that which is behind of the afflictions of Christ in my 
flesh for his body's sake, which is the church," but the 
protecting providence of God was so conspicuous and his 
mercies so constant, that the opportunity did not appear 
to be presented. As to want, I experienced only enough 
to teach me more sensibly the meaning of the petition, 
" give us this day our daily bread ;" and the truth was 
comforting, that " the Lord giveth to all their meat in due 
season." I can truly say, " hitherto the Lord hath helped 
me." 

I am very agreeably situated in this place. Rooms in 






SCHOOL. 171 

a new house are assigned me, well furnished, and all the 
attendance which I can wish, with access to as many valu- 
able books as I have time to read ; and opportunities to 
ride out for exercise, and to see the adjoining country ; 
and in addition to all these, the society of gentlemen, en- 
lightened, polished and sociable. These comforts and 
privileges were not anticipated, and are therefore the more 
grateful. 

There is a school connected with this establishment for 
the benefit of the children of the traders and common 
laborers, some of whom are orphans whose parents were 
attached to the company ; and also some Indian children, 
who are provided for by the generosity of the resident 
gentlemen. They are instructed in the common branches 
of the English language, such as reading, writing, arith- 
metic, grammar and geography ; and together with these, 
in religion and morality. The exercises of the school are 
closed with singing a hymn ; after which, they are taken 
by their teacher to a garden assigned them, in which they 
labor. Finding them deficient in sacred music, I instructed 
them in singing, in which they made good proficiency, 
and developed excellent voices. Among them was an 
Indian boy who had the most flexible and melodious voice 
I ever heard. 

It is worthy of notice, how little of the Indian complex- 
ion is seen in the half breed children. Generally they 
have fair skin, often flaxen hair and blue eyes. The 
children of the school were punctual in their attend- 
ance on the three services of the Sabbath, and were our 
choir. 

Monday, Nov. 23d. The weather being pleasant, 
though generally very rainy at this season of the year, as 
I wished to explore the country up the Willamette river, I 
embraced an opportunity of going with Mr. Lucier and 



172 JOURNEY UP THE WILLAMETTE. 

family, who were returning in a canoe to their residence 
about sixty miles up that river. Doctor McLaughlin fur- 
nished and sent on board a stock of provisions, three or 
four times more than I should need, if nothing should oc- 
cur to delay us ; but such a precaution in this country is 
always wise. We left Fort Vancouver about one o'clock 
in the afternoon, and proceeded five miles down the Co- 
lumbia to the entrance of the Multnomah, and about fifteen 
up the Willamette before we encamped. The name 
Multnomah is given to a small section of this river, from 
the name of a tribe of Indians who once resided about six 
miles on both sides from its confluence with the Columbia, 
to the branch which flows down the southern side of the 
Wappatoo island. Above this it is called the Willamette.* 
The tide sets up this river about thirty miles, to within a 
few miles of the falls, and through this distance the 
river is wide and deep, affording good navigation for ship- 
ping. 

The country about the Multnomah, and also some miles 
up the Willamette, is low, and much of it is overflowed in 
the June freshet; but as we ascend, the banks become 
higher and are more generally covered with woods. The 
country around contains fine tracts of rich prairie, suffi- 
ciently interspersed with woods for all the purposes of 
fuel, fencing, and lumber. 

A chain of mountains running from the south south-east 
to the north north-west, and through which the Columbia 
river passes below Deer island, extends along the west 
shore of this river for some distance near and below the 
falls. 

There are probably as many Indians who navigate this 
river with their canoes, as any of the rivers in the lower 

# Pronounced with accent on the second syllable, Wil-lam'-ette. 



WALK ON SHORE. 173 

country ; many of whom I had an opportunity of observing 
to-day in their busy pursuits, the strokes of whose paddles 
broke in upon the general silence. One company over- 
took us towards evening, and encamped with us upon the 
elevated shore on the east side of the river. Owing to the 
dampness of the day, and previous rains, w T e had some diffi- 
culty in making a fire, but at length it was accomplished, 
and the wood was unsparingly applied. With my tent 
pitched before a large fire, under the canopy of wide- 
branching trees, I partook of the stores of my large wicker 
basket with as much satisfaction as could be felt in any 
splendid mansion. The blaze of dry, crackling fir threw 
brilliancy around, softened by the dark forest, like the 
light of the astral lamp ; and the burning balsam per- 
fumed the air. The latter part of the night, I suffered 
more with the cold than at any time in all my journeying, 
not having taken with me as many blankets as the season 
required. 

The morning of the 24th was overcast with clouds, and 
rendered chilly by a mist settled near the surface of the 
river, which, collecting in a beautiful frosting upon the 
surrounding trees, exhibited one of those picturesque fan- 
cies which works of art may imitate, but which only na- 
ture can perfect. Soon after resuming the labor of the 
day, we passed several basaltic islands, some of them of 
sufficient magnitude to enclose a few acres, others only 
rocky points, between which the current was strong, re- 
quiring much effort for us to make headway. Part of the 
way from our last encampment, to the falls, which was 
six miles, I walked along upon the pebbled shore, where 
I found calcedony, agate, jasper, and carnelian, of good 
quality. Two miles below the falls, a large stream comes 
in from the south-east, called Pudding river. Its entrance 
makes a strong current, which we found difficult to stem, 



174 FALLS OF THE WILLAMETTE. 

so that we were drifted back in spite of all our efforts ; but 
in the second attempt we succeeded. We arrived at the 
falls of the Willamette at two o'clock in the afternoon, and 
hired eight Clough-e-wal-lah Indians to carry the canoe by 
the falls, a distance of half a mile ; we proceeded about five 
miles farther before evening. These falls, with the scenery 
around, have much to charm and interest. The river above 
spreads out into a wide, deep basin, and runs slowly and 
smoothly until within a half mile of the falls, when its ve- 
locity increases, its width diminishes, eddies are formed, in 
which the water turns back as if loth to make the plunge, 
but is forced forward by the water in the rear, and when 
still nearer, it breaks upon the volcanic rocks scattered 
across the channel ; then, as if resigned to its fate, smooths 
its agitated surges, and precipitates down an almost per- 
pendicular of twenty-five feet, presenting a somewhat 
whitened column. It was a pleasant day, and the rising 
mist formed in the rays of the sun a beautiful bow ; and the 
grass about the falls, irrigated by the descending mist, was 
in fresh green. The rocks over which the water falls, and 
along the adjacent shores, are amygdaloid and basalt. 
The opportunities here for water power are equal to any 
that can be found. There cannot be a better situation for 
a factory village than on the east side of the river, where 
a dry, wide-spread level extends some distance, and the 
basaltic shores form natural wharves for shipping. The 
whole country around, particularly the east side, is pleas- 
ant and fertile. And can the period be far distant when 
there will be here a busy population? I could hardly 
persuade myself that this river had for many thousand 
years, poured its waters constantly down these falls with- 
out having facilitated the labor of man. Absorbed in these 
contemplations, I took out my watch to see if it was not 
the hour for the ringing of the bells. It was two o'clock 



SETTLEMENT ON THE WILLAMETTE. 175 

and all was still except the roar of the falling water. I 
called to recollection that in the year 1809, 1 stood by the 
falls of the Genesee river, and all was silence except the 
roar of the cataract. But it is not so now j for Rochester 
stands where I then stood. 

Wednesday, 25th. As soon as the day dawned, we 
went on board the canoe and pursued our way up the river, 
which for thirty miks runs from a westerly direction, 
and at half past one, we arrived at McKey's settlement. 
This and Jarvis' settlement, twelve miles above, contain 
about twenty families. The settlers are mostly Canadian 
Frenchmen with Indian wives. There are a very few 
Americans. The Frenchmen were laborers belonging to 
the Hudson Bay Company, but have left that service, and 
having families, they have commenced farming in this 
fertile section of country, which is the best of the Oregon 
Territory that I have as yet seen. It is well diversified 
with woods and prairies, the soil is rich and sufficiently 
dry for cultivation, and at the same time well watered 
with small streams and springs. These hunters, recently 
turned to farmers, cultivate the most common useful pro- 
ductions — wheat of the first quality to as great an extent 
as their wants require. A small grist mill is just finished, 
which adds to their comforts. They have a common 
school in each settlement, instructed by American young 
men who are competent to the business. 

An opinion extensively prevails that an American col- 
ony is located somewhere in this territory, but these two 
settlements are the only farming establishments which 
exist here, if we except those connected with the trading 
posts of the Hudson Bay Company. The attempt which 
was made some few years since by a company of men 
from the United States, was an entire failure, and only a 



176 MISLETOE— METHODIST MISSION. 

few individuals of whom I obtained any knowledge, have 
found their way back to the States. 

The forest trees are mostly oak and fir, the latter grow- 
ing remarkably tall. The misletoe, attached to the body 
and large branches of the oak, is very common. Beauti- 
ful dark green bunches of this plant, seen upon the leaf- 
less trees of winter, excite admiration that its verdure 
should continue, when the trees, from which it derives 
its life and support, are not able to sustain their own fo- 
liage. 

I rode on Thursday the 26th, twelve miles to Jarvis ? 
settlement, and was delighted with the country. For rich- 
ness of soil and other local advantages, I should not know 
where to find a spot in the valley of the Mississippi superior 
to this. I saw on the way a large number of horses, lately 
brought from California, fattening upon the fresh, luxuri- 
ant grass of the prairies* 

Near this upper settlement, a short distance up the 
river, the Methodist church of the United States have 
established a mission among the Calapooah Indians, Jtf 
whom there are but few remaining. Rev. Messrs. Jason 
Lee and Daniel Lee are the ordained missionaries, and 
Mr. Shepard teacher. 

Their principal mode of instruction, for the present, is 
by means of schools. They have at this time fourteen In- 
dian children in their school, supported in their family, and 
the prospect of obtaining others as fast as they can accom- 
modate them. Their facilities for providing for their 
school are good, having an opportunity to cultivate as 
much excellent land as they wish, and to raise the neces- 
saries of life in great abundance, with little more labor 
than what the scholars can perform, for their support. 
The missionaries have an additional opportunity of use- 



EPIDEMIC* ' 177 

fulness, which is to establish a Christian influence among 
the people of these infant settlements. Mr. J. Lee 
preaches to them on the Sabbath, and they have a very 
interesting Sabbath school, among the half-breed children. 
These children generally have fair complexions, active 
minds, and make a fine appearance. The prospect is, that - 
this mission may lay a foundation for extensive usefulness. 
There is as yet one important desideratum — the mission- 
aries have no wives. Christian white women are very 
much needed to exert an influence over Indian females. 
The female character must be elevated, and until this is 
done, but little is accomplished ; and females can have 
access to, and influence over females in many departments 
of instruction, to much better advantage than men. And 
the model, which is furnished by an intelligent and pious 
family circle, is that kind of practical instruction, whether 
at home or abroad, which never fails to recommend the 
gospel. 

At the time of my continuance in this place a singular 
epidemic prevailed among the Indians, of which several 
persons died. The subjects of the complaint were at- 
tacked with a severe pain in the ear almost instantaneously, 
which soon spread through the whole head, with great 
heat in the part affected ; at the same time the pulse be- 
came very feeble and not very frequent — soon the extremi- 
ties became cold, and a general torpor spread through the 
whole system, except the head— soon they became sense- 
less, and in a short period died. In some cases the attack 
was less severe, and the patient lingered, and after some 
days convalesced, or continued to sink until death closed 
his earthly existence. 

Friday, Nov. 27th. I rode with Mr. J. Lee several 
tniles south to see more of the country. The same rich, 
black soil continued, furnishing nutritive grass, in abun- 
8* 



178 HOSPITALITY OF WANAXKA. 

dance ; and also, the same diversity of wood and prairie. 
This valley is generally about fifty miles wide, east and 
west, and far more extended north and south. 

Towards evening, we attended the funeral of an Indian 

. boy, who belonged to the school, and who died last night 

with the epidemic. Most of the children of the school 

and the Sabbath school attended, and conducted with 

propriety. 

On Saturday I returned to McKey's settlement, to fulfil 
an appointment to preach to the inhabitants on the Sab- 
bath. I stopped with Mr. Edwards, who is temporarily 
attached to the mission, but now teaching school in this 
settlement. 

Almost the whole of the inhabitants of this settlement 
assembled on the Sabbath, and made a very decent con- 
gregation, but not more than half of them could under- 
stand English. 

After service I was called to visit a Mr. Cathre, who 
was taken severely with the epidemic. I bled him, which 
gave him immediate relief, and applied a blister, and, as I 
afterward learned, he recovered. 

Early on Monday morning, the 30th, McKey furnished 
me with two young Indians to take me in a canoe to the 
falls, where we arrived safely at three o'clock in the after- 
noon. Here I engaged two Indians belonging to a small 
village of the Clough-e-wal-lah tribe, who have a perma- 
nent residence a little below the falls, to carry me in a 
canoe to Fort Vancouver. Wanaxka, the chief, came up 
to the falls, where I was about to encamp alone for the 
night, and invited me to share the hospitality of his house. 
I hesitated, not that I would undervalue his kindness, but 
feared such annoyances as might prevent my rest. On, 
the other hand, there was every appearance of a cold 
heavy storm, and very little wood near, which I could pro- 



CONSTRUCTION OF HIS HOUSE. 179 

cure for a fire with my hatchet only, and I should be alone, 
exposed to ravenous wild beasts — the latter consideration, 
however, I scarcely regarded. But believing it would 
gratify the chief, should I accept his invitation, I went with 
him to his dwelling, which was a long, permanent build- 
ing on the west side of the river, upon an elevation of one 
hundred feet, and near which were several other buildings 
of nearly the same dimensions. Besides the family of the 
chief, there were two other families in the same building, 
in sections of about twenty feet, separated from each other 
by mats hung up for partitions. Their houses are built of 
logs split into thick plank. These Indians do not sink 
any part of their buildings below the surface of the earth, 
as some of the Indians do about and below the Cascades. 
The walls of the chief's house were about seven feet high, 
with the roof more steeply elevated than is common in the 
United States, and made of the same materials with the 
walls, except that the planks were of less thickness. They 
have only one door to the house, and this is in the centre 
of the front side. They have no chimneys to carry off the 
smoke, but a hole is left open above the fire place, which 
is in the centre of each family's apartment. This answers 
very well in calm weather, but when there is much wind, 
the whole building becomes a smoke house. The fire 
place of the chief's apartment was sunk a foot below the 
surface of the earth, eight feet square, secured by a frame 
around, and mats were spread upon the floor for the family 
to sit upon. Their dormitories are on the sides of the 
apartment, raised four feet above the floor, with moveable 
ladders for ascent ; and under them they stow away their 
dried fish, foots, berries, and other effects. There was not 
an excess of neatness within, and still less without. The 
Indians in the lower country, who follow fishing and fowl- 
ing for a livelihood; are far from being as neat as those in 



180 A MORNING VOYAGE. 

the upper country, who depend more upon the chase. 
The latter live in moveable lodges, and frequently change 
their habitations. But these Indians were also kind 
They gave me most of one side of the fire place, spread 
down clean new mats, replenished their fire, and were 
ready to perform any service I should wish. They filled 
my tea-kettle, after which I spread out the stores so boun- 
tifully provided by Doct. McLaughlin, and performed my 
own cooking. During the evening, the chief manifested a 
disposition to be sociable, but w T e had very little language 
common to us both, besides the language of signs. The 
next thing, when the hour of rest arrived, was to fortify 
myself against a numerous and insidious enemy. I first 
spread down the cloth of my tent, then my blankets, and 
wrapped myself up as securely as I could, and should have 
slept comfortably, had I not too fully realized my appre- 
hensions. 

December 1st. As soon as daylight appeared, I left 
the hospitable habitation of Wanaxka, and with my two 
Indians proceeded down the Willamette about sixteen 
miles before we landed for breakfast. I find a great dif- 
ference in going with or against the current of these 
rivers. Since going up this river, the number of swans 
and geese had greatly multiplied upon the waters and 
along the shores. Their noise, and especially that of the 
swans, echoed through the woods and prairies. The swan 
is a beautiful and majestic bird ; its large body, long neck, 
clear white color, and graceful movements place it among 
the very first of the winged tribe. The common seal are 
numerous in this river. It is very difficult to shoot them, 
even with the best rifles, on account of their diving with 
extreme suddenness at the flash. I had a fair opportunity 
to shoot one to-day, but with one splash he was out of 
sight and did not again appear. When I came to the 



LOVE OF ARDENT SPIRITS. 181 

north-western branch of the Multnomah, I proceeded down 
four miles to Fort William, on the Wappatoo island, an 
establishment which belongs to Captain Wyeth and Com- 
pany. The location is pleasant, and the land around is of 
the first quality. 

Some months ago, a tragical occurrence took place 
here between two men from the United States. The 
subject of their dispute was an Indian woman. Thorn- 
burgh was determined to take her from Hubbard, even at 
the risk of his own life. He entered Hubbard's cabin in 
the night, armed with a loaded rifle, but H. saw him and 
shot him through the breast, and violently thrust him 
through the door. Poor T. fell, and expired. In the ab- 
sence of any judicial tribunal, a self-created jury of inquest, 
on examination into the circumstances of the case, brought 
in a verdict of " justifiable homicide." 

In Thornburgh, was an instance of a most insatiable ap- 
petite for ardent spirits. Mr. Townsend, the ornithologist, 
whom I have before mentioned, told me he had encamped 
out for several days, some miles from Fort William, at- 
tending to the business of his profession j and that in addi- 
tion to collecting birds, he had collected rare specimens of 
reptiles, which he preserved in a keg of spirits. Several 
days after he was in this encampment, he went to his keg 
to deposit another reptile, and found the spirits gone. 
Mr. Townsend, knowing that Thornburgh had been sev- 
eral times loitering about, charged him with having drank 
off the spirits. He confessed it, and pleaded his thirst as 
an apology. 

On Wednesday, the 2d, I returned to Fort Vancouver, 
well pleased with my excursion. The weather was gen- 
erally pleasant, free from winds and heavy storms. The 
whole country is adapted by nature to yield to the hand 
of cultivation, and ere long, I may say, without claiming 



182 RETURN TO FORT VANCOUVER. 

to "be prophetic, will be filled, through the whole extent 
of the valley of the Willamette, with farms spread out 
in rich luxuriance, ajid inhabitants, whose character will 
depend upon the religious advantages or disadvantages 
which benevolent and philanthropic individuals give or 
withhold. I found the people of the fort in their usual 
active business pursuits, and received a renewed and cor- 
dial welcome. 



SERVICES ON THE SABBATH. 183 



CHAPTER XII. 

Services on the Sabbath — obstacles to the gospel— discouraging case — 
manner of spending time — description ol Vancouver — fur and farm- 
ing establishment— garden productions— lumber — commerce— pelt- 
ries— system of the Hudson Bay Company — waste of life— hardships 
of a hunter's life— their perseverance— Christian principle— worldly 
principle. 

Sabbath, Dec. the 6th. I have attended three services 
— morning, afternoon and evening, and expect to continue 
them during my residence in this place. Through ' the 
week there will be but few opportunities to do much for 
the spiritual benefit of the common laborers ; for in this 
high northern latitude, the days in the winter are so short 
that the men are called out to their work before daylight, 
and continue their labor until near dark ; and as their 
families do not understand English, I have no direct means 
of benefitting them. 

There is another circumstance which operates against 
the prospects of benefitting many of the population here — 
the common practice of living in families without being 
married. They do not call the women with whom they 
live, their wives, but their women. They know they are 
living in the constant violation of divine prohibition, and 
acknowledge it, by asking how they can, with any con- 
sistency, attend to their salvation, while they are living in 
sin. I urged the duty of entering into the marriage rela- 
tion. They have two reasons for not doing so. One is, 
that if they may wish to return to their former homes and 
friends, they cannot take their families with them. The 
other is, that these Indian women do not understand the 



184 DIFFICULTIES. 

obligations of the marriage covenant, and if they, as hus- 
bands, should wish to fulfil their duties, yet their wives 
might through caprice, leave them, and they should be 
bound by obligations which their wives would disregard. 

There is no doubt, that this subject is attended with 
real difficulties, but are they insurmountable ? Has God 
given a law, which if obeyed, would not secure our great- 
est and best good ? Can a rational mind balance for a 
moment the pleasures of a sinful life against interests which 
stand connected inseparably with permanent happiness, 
and with a duration, compared to which, the whole of 
this mortal life is but a speck, a nothing. My heart is 
pained when I witness the things which are seen and 
temporal, preferred to those that are unseen and pure, 
and which are commensurate with existence itself. I 
cannot believe, that if these men should marry the women 
with whom they live, and do all they could to instruct 
them, and treat them with tenderness and respect, that 
there would be many cases of their leaving their husbands. 
And whatever might be the results, it is always better to 
suffer wrong, than to do wrong. But their social comforts 
are so strongly bound with the cords of sin, that Ihey feel, 
as they express their own case, that it is useless to make 
any efforts to obtain spiritual freedom, until they shall be 
placed in different circumstances. 

As much of my time, through the week, was occupied 
in study, and in digesting facts connected with the natural 
history of the country west of the Rocky Mountains, and 
the character and condition of the Indians, which came 
under my observation at different times and places ; and 
also that which I obtained from persons whose testimony 
could be relied upon, and which came under their personal 
observation, I shall give them without particular dates. 
I have already mentioned my agreeable disappointment, 



THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY. 185 

in finding so many of the comforts of life, at different tra- 
ding posts of the Hudson Bay Company \ I have also giv- 
en a brief description of the local situation of Fort Van- 
couver. This was taken from such observations as I could 
make in a hasty view, as I was prosecuting my journey 
to the shores of the Pacific ocean. This establishment was 
commenced in the year 1824. It being necessary that 
the gentlemen who are engaged in transacting the busi- 
ness of the Company west of the mountains, and their la- 
borers, should be better and less precariously supplied with 
the necessaries of life, than what game furnishes ; and the 
expenses of transporting suitable supplies from England 
being too great, it was thought important to connect the 
business of farming with that of fur, to an extent equal to 
their necessary demands \ and as this fort is the central 
place of business to which shipping come, and from which 
they depart for different parts of the ncrth-west coast, and 
to and from which, brigades of hunting parties come and 
go ; the principal farming business was established here, 
and has been progressing until provisions are furnished in 
great abundance. There are large fertile prairies, which 
they occupy for tillage and pasture, and forests for fencing 
materials and other purposes. In the year 1835, at this 
post, there were four hundred and fifty neat cattle, one 
hundred horses, two hundred sheep, forty goats, and three 
hundred hogs. They had raised the same year five thou- 
sand bushels of wheat, of the best quality I ever saw ; one 
thousand three hundred bushels of potatoes ; one thousand 
of barley, one thousand of oats, two thousand of peas, and 
a large variety of garden vegetables. This estimate does 
not include the horses, horned cattle, &c. and produce 
raised at other stations. But little, however, is done at 
any of the others, except Colvile, the uppermost post on 
the northern branch of the Columbia. The garden of this 



"186 HUDSON BAY COMPANY. 

station, enclosing about five acres, is laid out with regu- 
larity and good taste. While a large part is appropriated 
to the common esculent vegetables, ornamental plants and 
flowers are not neglected. Fruit of various kinds, such as 
apples, peaches, grapes and strawberries, for the time 
they have been introduced, flourish and prove that the 
climate and soil are well adapted to the purposes of horti- 
culture. Various tropical fruits, such as figs, oranges, and 
lemons, have also been introduced, and grow with about 
the same care that they would require in the latitude of 
Philadelphia. 

In connection with this business and farming establish- 
ment, the Company have a flour-mill worked by ox-power, 
which is kept in constant operation and produces flour of 
excellent quality. Six miles up the Columbia, at the con- 
fluence of a stream coming from the north-east, they have 
a saw-mill with several saws, which is kept in operation 
most of the year. This mill, though large, does not fur- 
nish more lumber than a common mill would, with one 
saw, in the United States. There being no pine below 
the Cascades, and but very little within five hundred miles 
of the mouth of the Columbia river, the only timber sawed 
in this mill is fir and oak. Besides what lumber is used in 
the common business about this station, one, and sometimes 
two ship loads are sent annually to Oahu, Sandwich Is- 
lands, and it is there called pine of the north-west coast, 
and sells for about fifty dollars the thousand feet. Spars 
and timber for shipping are also sent to that market. 
Boards of fir are not so durable when exposed to the 
weather, as those of pine, nor so easily worked. One 
half of the grain of each annual growth is very hard, and 
the other half soft and spungy, which easily absorbs mois- 
ture and causes speedy decay. There is a bakery here, 
in which two or three men are in constant employment^ 



HUDSON BAY COMPANY. 187 

which furnishes bread for daily use in the fort, and a large 
supply of sea biscuit for the shipping and trading stations 
along the north-west coast. There are also shops for 
blacksmiths, joiners, carpenters, and a tinner. 

Here is a well regulated medical department, and a hos- 
pital for the accommodation of the sick laborers, in which 
also Indians who are laboring under any difficult and 
dangerous diseases are received, and in most cases have 
j gratuitous attendance. 

Among the large buildings, there are four for the 
trading department. One for the Indian trade in which 
are deposited their peltries ; one for provisions ; one for 
goods opened for the current year's business, and another 
for storing goods in a year's advance. Not less than a 
ship load of goods is brought from England annually, and 
always at least one in advance of their present use, so that 
if any disaster should befal their ship on her passage, the 
business of the Company would not have to be suspended. 
By this mode of management, there is rarely less than two 
ship loads of goods on hand. The annual ship arrives in 
the spring, takes a trip to Oahu during the summer, 
freighted with lumber to that island, and bringing back 
to Vancouver, salt and other commodities, but generally 
not enough for ballast ; and in the last of September, or 
in the first of October, she sails for England with the pelt- 
ries obtained during the preceding year. 

The fur business about the west of the Rocky Moun- 
tains, is becoming far less lucrative than in years past ; for 
so extensively and constantly have every nook and corner 
been searched out, that beaver and other valuable fur ani- 
mals are becoming scarce. It is rational to conclude, that 
it will not be many years before this business will not be 
worth pursuing in the prairie country, south of the 50° of 
north latitude; north of this, in the colder and more 



188 HUDSON SAY COMPANY. 

densely wooded regions, the business will not vary in any 
important degree. 

But very few Americans who have engaged in the fur 
business beyond the Rocky Mountains, have ever suc- 
ceeded in making it profitable. Several companies have 
sustained great loss or entire failure, owing generally to 
their ignorance of the country, and the best mode of pro- 
cedure. The conductors of these enterprises, mainly, 
were inexperienced in Indian trade, and, like Americans 
generally, they perhaps expected the golden fruits of their 
labor and industry, without the time and patience requisite 
to insure it. Hence the results have frequently been dis- 
appointment. The Hudson Bay Company have reduced 
their business to such a system, that no one can have the 
charge of any important transactions, without having 
passed through the inferior grades, which constitute seve- 
ral years apprenticeship. The lowest order are what 
they call servants, (common laborers.) All above these 
are called gentlemen, but of different orders. The lowest 
class are clerks ; then chief clerks ; next traders and 
chief traders ; factors, and chief factors ; and the highest, 
governors. Of the last named officers there are only two ; 
one resides in London, who is at the head of the whole 
business of the company, and the other resides in Mon- 
treal, Lower Canada. There are only two chief factors 
west of the mountains, John McLaughlin, Esq. and Dun- 
can Finlayson, Esq., and with them are associated in busi- 
ness several chief traders and traders, and chief clerks and 
clerks. The salaries of the gentlemen are proportioned to 
the stations they occupy. This being their system, no 
important enterprise is ever intrusted to any inexperienced 
person. 

It is worthy of remark, that comparatively few of all 
those who engage in the fur business about, and west of 



THE LIFE OF THE HUNTER. 189 

the Rocky Mountains, ever return to their native land, and 
to their homes and friends. Mr. P. of Fort Walla Walla, 
told me that to keep up their number of trappers and hunt- 
ers near, but west of the mountains, they were under the 
necessity of sending out recruits annually, about one third 
of the whole number. Captain W. has said, that of more 
than two hundred who have been in his employment in 
less than three years, only between thirty and forty were 
known to be alive. From these data it may be seen that 
the life of hunters in these far western regions averages 
about three years. And with these known facts, still 
hundreds and hundreds are willing to engage in the hunt- 
er's life, and expose themselves to hardships, famine, dan- 
gers and death. The estimate has been made from sources 
of correct information, that there are nine thousand white 
men in the north and in the great west, engaged in the 
various departments of trading, trapping and hunting, in- 
cluding Americans, Britons, Frenchmen, and Russians. It 
is more than one hundred and fifty years since white men 
penetrated far into the forests, in their canoes freighted 
with goods, coasting the shores of the remote lakes, and 
following up the still more remote rivers, to traffic with 
the Indians for their furs, not regarding hunger, toils, and 
dangers. These enterprises have been extended and pur- 
sued with avidity, until every Indian nation and tribe have 
been visited by the trader. 

What is the power of that principle which draws these 
thousands from their country, and their homes and all the 
ties of kindred ? Are the love of gain and hope of wealth 
the motives by which courage and daring are roused, and 
dangers defied ? And shall Christianity be a less power- 
ful principle 1 Has it only furnished twenty or thirty 
missionaries, whose sole motive is to carry the gospel to 
the many ten thousand Indians in the widely extended 



190 CHRISTIAN PRINCIPLE. 

Country, over which are ranging nine thousand traders, 
trappers and hunters ? Are these the only evidences the 
church of God can give of sincerity in her professions of 
attachment to Christ, and to the interests of the immortal 
soul ? If so, then Christians surely must suffer in com- 
parison with worldly men, and our heaven-descended re- 
ligion, if judged of by its restricted fruits, must be deemed 
unworthy of its name and origin. But this want of 
Christian enterprise, characterized by the late period in 
which it is begun, and carried forward with such slow and 
faltering steps, is not only to be lamented as a blot upon 
the Christian name, but incomparably more is it to be 
lamented, that in consequence, generation after generation 
of the heathen, to say nothing of the thousands who are 
trafficking among them, are left in their ignorance of the | 
Savior to perish eternally. How long shall it be, that 
when an adventurous man forms a plan for traffick in far 
distant wilds, in a short time a company is formed with a 
capital of fifty thousand dollars, and a hundred men are 
found to face hardships and dangers, and they are away ? 
But when a Christian heart is stirred up to go and carry 
the gospel to some far distant Indian nation, he may plead 
and plead for four men and two thousand dollars, and per- 
haps in vain. But it is said, much is now doing for the 
heathen world. How much ? As much as to give Jive 
ministers to the United States. All that is doing for the 
conversion of the heathen is not more than it would cost 
to build, and man, and defray the expenses of one ship of 
war. 



i 



i 



INDIAN POPULATION. 191 



CHAPTER XIII. 

Indian population — diseases— mortality — attributed to cultivation 0/ 
Ihe soil — Indians destitute of medical science—holidays— customs 
at home— customs of the Indians — resemblance to Jewish customs in 
punishment— marriage contracts— condition of the females— slavery 
—divisions into tribes — one point of dissimilarity — language. 

I have found the Indian population in the lower coun- 
try, that is, below the falls of the Columbia, far less than 
I had expected, or what it was when Lewis and Clarke 
made their tour. Since the year 1829, probably seven- 
eighths, if not as Dr. McLaughlin believes, nine-tenths, 
have been swept away by disease, principally by fever 
and ague. The malignancy of this disease may have been 
increased by predisposing causes, such as intemperance, 
and the influence of intercourse with sailors. But a more 
direct cause of the great mortality, was their mode of 
treatment. In the burning stage of the fever they plunged 
i themselves into some lake or river, and continued in the 
water until the heat was allayed, and rarely survived the 
; cold stage which followed. So many and so sudden were 
the deaths which occurred, that the shores were strewed 
i with the unburied dead. Whole and large villages were 
i depopulated ; and some entire tribes have disappeared, 
) but where there were any remaining persons, they united 
with other tribes. This great mortality extended not only 
from the vicinity of the Cascades to the shores of the Pa- 
cific, but far north and south ; it is said as far south as 
California. The fever and ague was never known in this 
country before the year 1829, and Dr. McLaughlin men- 
tioned it as a singular circumstance, that this was the year 



195 HOLIDAYS. 

in which fields were ploughed for the first time. He 
thought there must have been some connexion between 
breaking up the soil and the fever. I informed him that 
the same fever prevailed in the United States, about the 
same time, and in places which had not before been sub- 
ject to the complaint. The mortality, after one or two 
seasons, abated, partly from the want of subjects, and 
partly from medical assistance obtained from the hospital 
at Fort Vancouver. The mortality of Indians and their 
sufferings under diseases are far greater than they would 
be, if they were furnished with a knowledge of medicine. 
Indian doctors are only Indian conjurers. But I shall have 
occasion to say more upon this subject when I describe In- 
dian customs. 

December 25th. The holidays are not forgotten in these 
far distant regions. From Christmas until after the New 
Year, all labor is suspended, and a general time of indul- 
gence and festivity commences. Only this once in the 
whole year are ardent spirits given to the laborers, when 
they have a free allowance, furnishing them the oppor- 
tunity to exhibit fully what they would do, if spirits were 
easily and always accessible. On Christmas morning they 
dress themselves in their best attire — accelerated move- 
ments are seen in every direction, and preparation is made 
for dinners, which are sure to be furnished in their first 
style, and greatest profusion ; and the day passes in mirth 
and hilarity. But it does not end with the day ; for the 
passions and appetites pampered through the day, prepare 
the way for the night to be spent in dancing ; and loud 
and boisterous laughter, shouts, and revelry, consume the 
hours designed for rest. They continue these high-strung 
convivialities until they pass the portals of the new year, 
when labor and toil resume their place. 

Such are often the customs of those who profess to be 



CUSTOMS AT HOME. 193 

wiser and better. The expiring year vanishes amidst the 
noise and revels of many, who pretend by such methods 
to honor the birth of our Savior, and the introduction of 
that only religion, which requires perfect purity and perfect 
order. And too many give, as they profess, but a decent 
honor and respect to those festival days, when from house 
to house of their best or indifferent friends, the wine is 
circulated until they become genteelly inebriated. And is 
it so, that these days are baptized with the name of holy 
days ? The piety of primitive Christians undoubtedly -led 
them to observe the supposed anniversary of our Savior's 
birth, but whenever such uncommanded observances are 
greatly abused, the same piety will exert itself to bring 
about a reformation ; and if this cannot be done, then to 
abolish the custom altogether. Hezekiah, king of Judah, 
in the case of the brazen serpent, which was preserved as 
a memorial of the salvation wrought instrumentally by it, 
for those who were bitten by the fiery serpents, destroyed 
it when the people idolized and burned incense to it. 

The question whether there is any evidence that the In- 
dians are descended from the ten lost tribes of Israel, though 
frequently and largely discussed, has not been satisfactorily 
answered. From all the personal observations I could 
make, and efforts at examination, I could not obtain any 
thing conclusive upon the subject, but am induced to be- 
lieve that their origin will remain as problematical in 
future, as it has been in time past. But we know enough 
of their origin for all practical purposes, since we know 
that they are a part of the fallen family of man, and there- 
fore need to know the way of salvation through Jesus 
Christ. Their are some things in their belief and customs 
which favor the idea that they are of Israelitish descent. 
Their entire freedom from idolatry is a peculiar character- 
istic, by which they are distinguished from all other 
9 



194 RESEMBLANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS. 

heathen. Where can another heathen nation "be found, 
who have no idols or idol worship? It will be remem- 
bered that this propensity of the Jews to idolatry was en- 
tirely subdued from the time of their captivity in Babylon. 
Among the Indians beyond the mountains, I found no idols, 
nor any appearance of idolatry. They believe in only one 
God, and all their worship, so far as they have any, is 
offered to Him. They believe in the immortality of the 
soul, and future rewards and punishments. Their knowl- 
edge of these important truths is very inadequate and im- 
perfect, as might be supposed, since they are destitute of 
the light of divine revelation. It was predicted by the 
prophet Hosea of the children of Israel, that " they should 
abide many days without a king, and without a prince, 
and without a sacrifice." They have no sacrifices, no kings, 
and no prince. Their government is invested entirely in 
their chiefs, no one of whom has any special control over 
the others, or over the people, but they always act in uni- 
ted councils. Their minds are perfectly open to receive 
any truth in regard to the character and worship of God. 
They have many traditions and superstitions ; and some 
persons can hardly see the distinction between a reverence 
for these, and idol worship — for instance, though they 
may believe, that the Great Wolf and the Gray Bear 
scrambled together the mountains in a fight, yet they do 
not worship either. 

Their custom of punishing the crime of murder, if it does 
not differ from that of all other heathen nations, yet it 
coincides with what was the custom of the Jews. The 
nearest relatives of the murdered person are the "avengers 
of blood," the executioners, or " pursuers of blood." They 
kill the murderer, if they can find him ; and in their own 
tribe or nation, they do not extend the punishment to any 
other person, so that " the fathers are not put to death for 



RESEMBLANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS. 195 

the children, neither are the children put to death for the 
fathers ; every man is put to death for his own sin." As 
the Jews did not regard other nations with the same be- 
nevolence as their own, so the Indians make a distinction 
between their own tribe or nation, and others. If one is 
killed by a person belonging to another nation, if they 
cannot obtain and put the murderer to death, they will 
take the life of some of the relatives of the murderer ; or, 
if they fail of this, some one of the nation must atone for 
the crime. And if this cannot be done immediately, the 
debt of blood will still be demanded, though years may 
pass away before it is cancelled. 

There is also, some resemblance in their marriage con- 
tracts. The negotiation is commenced, if not completed, 
with the parents of the intended bride, as in the case of 
Isaac's marrying Rebekah. Abraham directed his servant 
to go to his kindred and take a wife for his son Isaac. He 
went, and when God had shown him that Rebekah was the 
appointed person, he first consulted her father and brother, 
and when their approbation was obtained, Rebekah's 
approval closed the contract, and presents were made to 
the several members of the family. The customs of the 
Indians are substantially the same. The bridegroom ne- 
gotiates with the parents, and the approbation of the 
daughter being obtained, the stipulated commodities are 
paid, and the man takes his wife. But as much or more 
is given in dowry to the daughter. The presents and 
dowry are proportioned to the rank and wealth of the 
contracting parties. Wanaxka, the first chief of the 
Clough-e-wal-lah Indians, has refused more than one 
hundred dollars for a beautiful daughter, whom I saw when 
I shared the hospitality of his house. A chief at the La 
Dalles refused two horses and six blankets, together with 
several other articles of smaller value. It is not to be un- 



196 RESEMBLANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS. 

derstood, however, that marriage is a mere mercenary 
transaction ; for fancy and choice have their influence 
with them, as well as among more refined people. 

Another resemblance between the Indians and the Jews 
may be traced in the estimation in which the females are 
held. No doubt the degradation of Indian women is to be 
attributed in a large degree to heathenism, and that un- 
civilized and savage state in which we find them ; yet in 
their respective occupations we find some features which 
are not dissimilar. Among those nations and tribes who do 
not possess slaves, the women cut and gather wood for 
fire, as well as prepare food for their families ; they pack 
and unpack the horses, set up and take down lodges, 
gather roots and berries for food, dress the skins for 
clothing, and make them into garments. So the Jewish 
women drew water for flocks and camels, and watched 
over them ; they gleaned the fields in harvest ; they also 
performed the work of grinding in the mill. Our Savior 
refers to this, when he foretold the destruction of Jerusa- 
lem. " Two women shall be grinding at the mill, one 
shall be taken and the other left." 

Slavery was suffered among the Jews, and undoubtedly 
for the same reasons that polygamy was, and the putting 
away their wives by writing a bill of divorcement. While 
the Great law-giver did not at once abolish the practice, 
he brought it under modified restrictions. . The stealing 
and selling a man was punishable with death. If a man 
bought a Hebrew servant, the time of his service was not 
to exceed six years. Intermarriages took place between 
these servants and the families of their masters ; and the 
betrothed maid was to be treated like a daughter. The 
same restrictions were not, however, enjoined in relation 
to those bondmen of the heathen, until the days of the 
prophets, when they were commanded to break every yoke 



RESEMBLANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS. 197 

and let the oppressed go free. So also slavery exists in a 
modified form among the Indians west of the mountains, 
not generally, but only among the nationsin the lower 
country. They are bought ; taken prisoners in war ; 
taken in payment of debts, if they are orphans of the 
debtor; and sell themselves in pledges. They are put to 
the same service which women perform among those In- 
dians who have no slaves. They are generally treated 
with kindness ; live in the same dwelling with their mas- 
ters, and often intermarry with those who are free. They 
are exempt from one cruel practice which their master3 
inflict upon their own children, the flattening of their heads. 
The reason, which those who possess slaves assign for 
flattening their own heads, is, that they may be distin- 
guished from their slaves who have round heads. 

Polygamy is practiced among the Indians, and with 
nearly the same regulations with which it was practiced 
among the Jews. Though they do not write bills of 
divorcement and put away their wives, yet they send them 
away on slight occasion. But this brings no disgrace on 
the woman's character, and generally she is soon married 
to another, and often as advantageously. 

Another resemblance between the Jews and the Indians 
is the division of their nations into tribes. The tribes of 
the children of Israel were the descendants of distin- 
guished families, and their government was patriarchal. 
The tribes among the Indians are constituted much in the 
same way. Some important personage gains an influence, 
numbers become attached to him ; and though they do 
not separate from their nation, nor at once become a dis- 
tinct tribe, yet they are denominated a band, and these 
bands in many cases grow up into tribes. 

How much allusion there may be to the ancient Jewish 
custom of wearing " fringes to the borders of their gar- 



198 RESEMBLANCE TO JEWISH CUSTOMS. 

ments," I am not able to determine by eliciting any facts 
from Indian tradition, but the practice is universal among 
the tribes west of the mountains, as far as my observation 
extended — and so fond are they of this ornament to their 
dress, that every seam in their garments is furnished 
with it. 

There is one consideration which should not be passed 
over, and which may appear to be against the evidences 
that the Indians are of Israelitish origin. 

Every different nation has an entirely distinct language. 
These languages are more distinct than the different lan- 
guages of Europe ; for in all the different languages of 
Europe there are words derived from Latin, common to 
each, which prove a common relation. Now if the Indians 
are descended from the Jews, and of course once had a 
common language, viz. the Hebrew, notwithstanding their 
departure by different dialects from their original, might it 
not be expected that there would still remain words and 
idioms indicative of their common origin ? But it is not 
so, as may be seen in a vocabulary of a few languages 
which I shall subjoin. They have some words in common 
with Latin, Greek, and Hebrew, but these are used in an 
entirely different sense from that in which they are used 
in those languages. As far as it respects language, the 
proof of a Jewish, or even of a common origin, is not only 
doubtful, but highly improbable. 



ANIMAL3. 199 



CHAPTER XIV. 

The various animals beyond the Mountains. 

It is generally supposed that wild animals, in all Indian 
countries, and especially in the far regions beyond the 
mountains, are very numerous ; but, excepting buffalo 
within their range, which is becoming more and more 
circumscribed, game is scarce. In giving an account of 
animals beyond the mountains, I shall not go into a minute 
description of those which are familiar to all classes of 
persons. 

Among the animals of the genus cervus, the elk is the 
largest and most majestic. It exists in considerable num- 
bers east of the Rocky Mountains, but is less numerous 
on the west side. It combines beauty with magnitude 
and strength, and its large towering horns give it an im- 
posing appearance. Its senses are so keen, in apprehen- 
sion, that it is difficult to be approached ; and its speed in 
flight is so great that it mocks the chase. Its flesh re- 
sembles beef, though less highly flavored, and is much 
sought for by the Indians and hunters. Its skin is 
esteemed, and much used in articles of clothing and for 
moccasons. 

I did not see the moose ; they are said to be found 
farther north, in the colder and woody regions. 

There are three species of deer; the red, the black- 
tailed, and the common American deer. Like those found 
in other countries, they are of a mild, innocent, timid 
aspect i elegant in form, with slender, nervous limbs. 



200 ANIMALS. 

When any object or noise alarms them, they throw up 
their heads ; erect and move their ears in every direction to 
catch the sounds ; snuff up the wind, and bound off with 
great celerity. The deer west of the mountains are more 
lean, and the flesh is less inviting than those found in the 
United States. This may arise from the nature of the food 
to which they are confined, having less opportunity for 
browsing, especially upon such shrubbery as is congenial" 
to their natures, there being but very lew of the sacchari- 
ferous kinds found in their country. 

The red deer are generally found about the Rocky 
Mountains and upon the head waters of the Columbia. 

The black-tailed deer, while they are of a dusky sallow 
color, like the common American deer, are somewhat 
darker, and their tails are larger and nearly black, which 
gives them their name. Their eyes are large and promi- 
nent, their ears are also large and long, and judging from 
those I saw, they are smaller than the common deer. 
When they move faster than a walk, they bound. 

The antelope, which I have already described, page 
61st, are numerous in the upper and prairie country. 
They are a species of the gazelle, but differ at least in 
variety, from any described by zoologists as inhabiting the 
eastern continent. These are said to be brown upon the 
head, back, and outside of their limbs— the breast, belly, 
and inside of the limbs, are white — and their horns are 
sixteen inches long. But the antelopes of this country 
are of different colors, often red, or red and white in 
irregular patches. Their horns are similar to those of the 
goat in size and length, but are recurved, and are not de- 
ciduous. Like all the varieties of their genus, they are 
beautifully formed, and are characterized by a prominent, 
mild and beautiful eye, exceeding swiftness in running, 
and agility in all their motions. Their feet are cloven, 



ANIMALS. 201 

and their limbs are slender and delicate. They are gre- 
garious and are often seen feeding in flocks of twenty or 
more, or sporting upon the hills and in the valleys. They 
seem to take a middle place between the goat and the 
deer, though entirely distinct from either. 

In enumerating the animals beyond the Rocky moun- 
tains, I am not able, as might be expected, to describe the 
Rocky Mountain, or big-horn sheep. I am unwilling to 
state, as facts, the descriptions of others, especially as 
there are so many wrong statements made in natural his- 
tory. I did not see any of these animals, which probably 
I should have done, if they w T ere as numerous a travelers 
have said they are. I saw their horns, which are enor- 
mously large, if, as it is said, their bodies are not much 
larger than a common deer. A horn which I measured, 
was five inches in diameter at its juncture with the head, 
and eighteen long. Its flesh, of which I had an oppor- 
tunity to eat, w 7 as far preferable to the best mutton. They 
inhabit the mountains, and are said to select the most rough 
and precipitous parts where grass is found. They are not 
covered with wool, but with hair so bordering upon wool 
as to render their coat warm in the winter. 

The mountain goat, and sheep, did not come under my 
observation. I was anxious to obtain specimens of them 
for description, but succeeded in obtaining only small parts 
of their skins. 

It is hardly necessary to say that the beaver, so noted 
for its valuable fur, for its activity and perseverance, its 
social habits, its sagacity and skill in constructing its 
village, and preparing its neat and comfortable dwellings, 
is an inhabitant of this country. It has been sought with 
avidity, and has been a source of wealth to many, but to 
multitudes, of poverty, misery, and death. It would be 
difficult to sum up the woes of the last class of adventurers. 
9* 



202 ANIMALS* 

Its flesh is very good for food, and the trapper and hunter 
depend almost entirely upon it for subsistence, while in its 
pursuit. Although I ate several times the flesh of the 
beaver, yet I discovered no evidence of the truth of the 
assertion often made, that while the flesh of the fore parts 
is of the quality of land animals, its hind parts are in smell 
and taste like fish. I should think it would require much 
assistance from imagination to discover the fish taste. 

Here also the land otter is found, and is somewhat numer- 
ous, and next to the beaver is sought with avidity by the 
hunter and trader. The shades of its eolor vary from a 
light, to a deep, beautiful brown. The fur is rich and in 
great demand, and there is none found in any country of 
better quality than the skins I saw at different trading posts 
of the Hudson Bay Company. Its formation is adapted to 
land and water, having short and muscular legs, so articu- 
lated that it can bring them horizontal with its body, and 
use them as fins in the water ; and its toes are webbed like 
water fowl. It subsists principally upon fish, frogs and 
other aquatic animals. It has a peculiar habit, which seems 
to be its pastime, for we know of no motive it can have, 
unless it be the love of amusement, which is to ascend a 
high ridge of snow, and with its legs thrown back, slide 
down head foremost upon its breast. "When there is no 
snow, it will in the same manner slide down steep, smooth, 
grassy banks. 

The sea otter, so highly and justly valued for its rich 
fur, is found only along the American coast and adjacent 
islands, from opposite Kamschatka, to Upper California. 
They vary in size, are generally about four feet long when 
full grown, and nine inches in diameter. Its legs are very 
short, and its feet are webbed. Its fur is of the first qual- 
ity, long and glossy, extremely fine, intermixed with some 
hair ; the outside is black — sometimes, however, dusky, 



A.NIMALS. 203 

and the inside a cinerous brown. They are amphibious, 
sportive, and often bask upon the shore for repose, and 
when asleep, the Indians approach and slay them. They 
have been so much hunted for their valuable fur, that they 
are rapidly diminishing in numbers. 

The hair seal is very frequently seen in the w T aters of 
Columbia river. Its head is large and round, its eyes full 
and mild. I often saw it swimming after our canoe, pre- 
senting to view its head, neck and shoulders, appearing in 
some degree, like the mastiff dog. Its hair is of various 
colors, generally a dappled gray. It rarely goes far from 
its most natural element, water ; but is sometimes seen 
basking upon rocks on the shore, and this is the most 
favorable opportunity for killing it ; for its motions are 
so quick in the water, that it will submerge at the flash of 
the rifle, and if killed in the water it sinks, and is difficult 
to be obtained. 

The racoon is somewhat numerous in parts of this coun- 
try, more especially towards the ocean. I could not dis- 
cover any difference in their appearance and habits from 
those in the United States. 

The badger inhabits this country, and is found on the 
plains on both sides of the great chain of mountains. 
Having given a short description of this animal, page 62, 
when passing through the parts where it was seen, it is 
not necessary in this place to make any further remarks. 

The weasel, the polecat, the marmot, the mink and 
muskrat, are common though not numerous in this coun- 
try, and not differing from those on the eastern part of this 
continent, they do not need description. 

The prairie dog, briefly described on page 62, is found 
both on the east and west sides of the mountains. It is 
about fourteen inches long, and is rather heavily formed, 
and is undoubtedly a distinct species of animal. It has 



204 ANIMALS. 

received its name from a barking sound, like that of a very 
small dog, which if utters when any danger is appre- 
hended. It is covered with a rich, dark brown fur. They 
live in communities and burrow in the ground, and their 
villages often extend over some miles of territory, which 
is so perforated as to endanger both horse and rider when 
passing over them. Some one or more are selected for 
sentinels, and are seated upon the small mounds formed 
by excavating their dwellings, and while the principal 
part of their community are busy in procuring food, these 
sentinels are on the lookout, and as soon as danger threat- 
ens, they give the alarm by a shrill bark, when all 
instantly fly to their subterranean habitations for safety. 

There is a small species of the marmot, of which I have 
seen no description in any work on natural history, which 
is probably peculiar to this country. It is called by the 
Nez Perces, duel ; is five inches long from the tip of its 
nose, exclusive of its tail, which is two in length — its 
body is one inch and a third in diameter, the color is 
brown, beautifully intermixed with small white spots upon 
its back ; the under parts of its body are of a dull white. 
It has'eight long hairs projecting from the nose, on each 
side, and two over each eye. Its habits resemble those 
belonging to its genus. It is remarkably nimble in its 
movements. The Indians esteem its flesh a luxury. 

The w T olverine is said to inhabit these western regions, 
and I saw one in the Salmon River mountains, which my 
Indians killed. The animal differed in several particu- 
lars from the description given by Richardson. It was 
one foot nine inches from its nose to its tail ; its body was 
not large in proportion to the length, short legs, small 
eyes and ears : the neck short, and as large as the head, 
and its mouth shaped like that of the dog. Its color was 
uniformly a dark brown, nearly black \ and its fur was 



ANIMALS. 205 

more than an inch long and coarse. I had no opportu- 
nity of observing its habits. 

The hedgehog is common in all parts of the Oregon ter- 
ritory, does not differ from those found in other parts of 
America, and for its quills is held in high estimation by 
the Indians. It is interesting to see with how much inge- 
nuity, and in how many various forms, the Indians manu- 
facture these quills into ornamental work, such as mocca- 
sons, belts and various other articles. 

There are three kinds of squirrels — two of which I have 
already described. The third is the gray, which differs 
from those in the United States,- in being larger and its 
color more beautifully distinct. I saw many of their skins 
made into robes and worn by the Indians about the Cas- 
cades. 

Of the feline or cat kind, there are the panther, the long- 
tailed tiger cat, the common wild cat, and the lynx. The 
panther is rarely seen, and the difference of climate and 
country produce no change in its ferociousness and other 
habits, from those found in other parts of America. The 
long-tailed tiger cat is more common, very large and of a 
dull, reddish color. Also the common wild cat js often 
seen. It is much smaller, its tail is short and its color is 
like the above named. I can only name the lynx, as they 
did not come under my observation. It is in the lower, 
wooded country they are found, and the Indians say they 
are numerous. 

There are five different species of wolves ; the common 
gray wolf, the black, blue, white, and the small prairie 
wolf. The common grey wolf is the same as those found 
in the United States, and has all their common habits. 
The black wolf, which I did not see, but as described by 
Mr. Ermitinger, a gentleman belonging to the Hudson 
Bay Company, is larger than the gray and more noble in 



206 ANIMALS. 

its appearance, and is the strongest of the wolf kind. 
Those which the same gentleman called the blue wolf, 
are rarely seen, as also the white, and so far as their hab- 
its are known, they do not materially differ from others. 
The small prairie wolf is the most common, and bears the 
greatest resemblance to the dog, and has been called the 
wild dog. It differs from the dog in all the peculiarities 
of the wolf kind as much as the others do. It is as uni- 
form in its color, size and habits. They are of a dull red- 
dish gray, never particolored ; the hair is always long, 
blended with brown fur at its roots, and like other wolves 
they are always prowling and cowardly. They are more 
numerous than the other kinds, and in considerable num- 
bers follow the caravans to feed upon the offals. Although 
we frequently heard them howl and bark around our 
encampments, yet they never disturbed our rest. 

Much has been said I about the immense number of 
wolves beyond the Rocky Mountains, but I did not find 
them so numerous as I expected. I do not make this 
assertion solely from the fact that I saw or heard only a 
few, but from the testimony of those whose long residence 
in this country entitles them to credit. It is the traveler 
who never saw the country he describes, or the lover of 
the marvelous, or he who does not expect soon to be fol- 
lowed in his route through dreary and uninhabited wilds, 
who sees and minutely relates, adventures with the rep- 
tiles and monsters of the desert. 

The fox, which is generally dispersed through the 
world, is found here in three different kinds ; the red, gray, 
and silver. They do not differ from those found east of 
the mountains. The silver gray fox is scarce, and highly 
esteemed, and takes the highest rank among the furs of 
commerce. Its color is dark, sometimes nearly black, the 
ends of the hairs tipped with white, and in addition to the 



ANIMALS. 507 

uncommonly fine texture, the fur presents a beautiful 
glossy appearance. 

Martins are not abundant ; some are found about the 
head waters of the Columbia in woody mountains, but 
they are more numerous and of superior quality farther 
north. 

The inoffensive, timorous hare, in three different species, 
abounds in all parts of this country. Its natural instinct 
for self-preservation, its remarkably prominent eye, its 
large active ear, and its soft fur, are its characteristics in 
this, as in other regions. The three species are, the large 
common hare, which is generally known ; the small chief 
hare with large round ears ; and a very small species, only 
five or six inches long, with pointed ears. If the first 
named differs in any particular from those in the United 
States, it is in its manner of running, and its speed. Its 
bound is not regular, but its motions are an alternate 
running and leaping at an almost incredible distance, and 
with such swiftness that I frequently mistook it, at first 
view, for the prairie hen, which I supposed was flying near 
the surface of the ground. Its flesh, when used for food, 
is tender and of a pleasant flavor. 

The only dress which many of the Indians have to pro- 
tect them from the cold, is made of the skins of these ani- 
mals, patched together into a scanty robe. 

There are four varieties of bears, though it is supposed 
there are only two distinct species. These are the white, 
grizzly, brown, and black. The white bear is ferocious 
and powerful, but their numbers are so small in the region 
of the Oregon country, that they are not an object of 
dread. But the grizzly bear is far more numerous, more 
formidable, and larger, some of them weighing six or eight 
hundred pounds. Their teeth are formed for strength, and 



208 ANIMALS. 

their- claws are equally terrific, measuring four or five 
inches; and their feet, which are astonishingly large, ex- 
clusive of the claws, measuring not far from ten inches 
long, and five inches wide. There are some even larger. 
The shades of their color vary from a very light gray to a 
dark brown, always retaining the grizzly characteristic. 
Among a multitude of their skins which I saw, there were 
some beautifully dappled, and as large as buffalo robes. 
These were held in high estimation. Their hair and fur 
is longer, finer, and more abundant than of any other spe- 
cies. They depend more upon their strength than speed 
for taking their prey, and therefore generally lurk in wil- 
lows or other thickets, and suddenly seize upon any animal 
which may be passing near. The mountain men tell as 
many wonderful stories about their encounters with these 
prodigies of strength and ferocity, as some mountain tra- 
velers tell us about constant battles with the Blackfeet In- 
dians, and starvation, and eating dogs. Now I may be 
considered deficient in a flexible and fruitful imagination, 
if I do not entertain my readers with one bear story, after 
having traveled thousands of miles over prairies, and moun- 
tains, through valleys, ravines, and amongst caves, chasms 
and deserts. But as I did not have any wonderful en- 
counters, I must borrow from a gentleman of established 
good character, belonging to the Hudson Bay Company, 
who gave me an account of a case which he witnessed. 
He and a number of others were traveling in canoes up 
» the Athabasca river, and on a morning one of their hunters 
shot upon the shore a large cub of a grizzly bear, which 
they took on board a canoe, and of which they made their 
supper on encamping for the night. While seated around 
their fire in conversation, the supposed mother of the slain 
cub approached, sprang across the circle and over the fire, 



ANIMALS. <>09 

seized the hunter who had shot the cub, threw him across 
her shoulder, and made off with him. They all laid hold 
of their rifles and pursued, but feared to fire lest they 
should injure their companion. But he requested them 
to fire, which one of them did and wounded the bear. 
She then dropped the first offender, and laid hold of the 
last in like manner as the first, but more roughly, and ac- 
celerated her departure. There was no time to be lost, 
and several fired at the same time, and brought her to the 
ground. The last man .was badly wounded, but recovered. 
The " great medicine" or mystery in this case, I shall not 
attempt to explain, but let every one account for it in his 
own way. 

The brown bear is less ferocious, more solitary, and not 
highly esteemed either for food or for its skin. The black 
bear is somewhat similar in its habits to the brown, 
but lives more upon vegetable food, and is more in estima- 
tion for its pure black, well-coated skin. 

I close with the buffalo, which is of the bovine genus, 
and is the largest and the most important for food and 
covering of any of the animals in our country. I need not 
in this place go into so long description, as otherwise 
would be important, having already spoken of them as I 
was passing through their range of country. After having 
seen thousands and ten thousands of them, and having had 
months of time to examine their forms and habits, I do not 
think they should be classed with the buffalo or bison of 
the eastern continent. Not with the buffalo, if historians 
have given a correct description of those on that continent. 
The flesh of these is said to be " black, hard, and very un- 
palatable; 'their hides impenetrable, making soft and 
smooth leather ; their race is so fierce and formidable, that 
there is no method of escaping their pursuit but by climb- 



210 ANIMALS. 

ing up some immense tree ; for a moderate tree would be 
broken down by them, and many travelers have instantly 
been gored to death by them and trampled to pieces under 
their feet." It is said " their voice is a hideous loud bel- 
low." But none of these things are true of the buffalo of 
our country. 

If a true account has been given of the bison of the 
eastern continent, our buffalo differ from them in several 
material traits of character and habits. Those of the 
eastern continent, are said to ha* T e "small heads, with 
horns so wide spread, that three men can sit between them 
—that their eyes are small, red and fiery — that they have 
a hump upon their backs like a camel, and which is pre- 
ferred to be eaten for its delicacy — that they are fierce and 
vindictive, so that men have to fly to trees for safety — 
that the bulls and cows live in separate bands." These 
things do not correspond with the buffalo or bison of our 
western prairies. 

The buffalos or bisons of our country are generally 
about as large as our domestic neat cattle, and the long, 
shaggy, woolly hair which covers profusely their head, 
neck, and shoulders, gives them an imposing appearance, 
at a distance something like the lion. Probably there is 
not any animal in the world, that presents an appearance 
so formidable and terrific as the buffalo bull, when excited 
and determined upon resistance. 

Their color is a dark brown, when they are in the best 
condition for robes, which is from November until Janu- 
ary. As the season advances, their woolly fur increases 
in length and assumes a pale color ; but after shedding 
their coat, their fur is very short, and nearly black. In 
many particulars they resemble our horned cattle; they are 
cloven footed, chew the cud, and select the same, kind of 



ANIMALS. 211 

food. Their flesh is in appearance and taste much like 
beef, but of superior flavor, and remarkably easy of diges- 
tion. Their heads are formed like the ox, perhaps a little 
more round and broad, and when running they carry 
them rather low. Their horns, ears, and eyes, as seen 
through their shaggy hair, appear small, and when cleared 
from their covering, they are not large. Their legs and 
feet are small and trim, fthe fore legs covered with the 
long hair of the shoulders as low down as the knee. 
Though their figure is clumsy in appearanee, ytt they run 
swiftly and for a long time without greatly slackening 
their speed ; and in ascending steep hills or mountains, 
they more than equal the best horses. They unite in 
herds, and when feeding scatter over a large space, but 
when fleeing from danger, they collect into dense columns, 
and having once laid their course, are not easily diverted 
from it, whatever may oppose ; and indeed it cannot be 
done with safety to themselves ; for should the foremost 
halt, or turn directly from their course, the dense mass in 
the rear rushing on would overthrow and destroy them. 
They can change their direction only by taking a circuitous 
course. Their spnse of smelling is very acute, and they 
perceive the hunter, when he is on the windward side, at 
a great distance, the alarm is taken, and when any of 
them manifest fear, they are thrown into confusion until 
some of the cows from the instinct of fear, take the lead 
to flee from the pursuer, and then all follow at the top of 
their speed. So far are they from being a fierce and 
revengeful animal, that they are very shy and timid ; and 
in no case did I see them offer to make an attack, except 
in self defense when wounded and closely pursued, and 
then they always sought the first opportunity to escape. 
When they run, they lean alternately from one side to the 



212 ANIMALS. 

other. The herds are composed promiscuously of bulls 
and cows, except some of the old bulls, which are often 
found by themselves in the rear or in advance of the main 
bands. Sometimes an old blind one is seen alone and 
separated from all others ; and it was amusing to see their 
consternation when they apprehended the approach of 
danger. The natural instincts of fear and prudence lead 
them to fly alternately in every possible direction for 
safety. I was pleased to find our most thoughtless young- 
men respect their age and pity their calamity ; for in no 
instance did I see any abuse offered them. They are fond 
of rolling upon the ground like horses, which is not prac- 
ticed by our domestic cattle. This is so much their diver- 
sion, that large places are found without grass and consi- 
derably excavated. The use of their skins for robes, and 
the woolly fur, with which they are covered, are so univer- 
sally known, that a description is entirely unnecessary. 
Another peculiarity which belongs to them is, that they 
never raise their voice above a low bellow; in no in- 
stance were we disturbed by their lowing, even when sur- 
rounded by thousands, and in one of our encampments, it 
was supposed there were five thousand near. It has been 
said they do not visit any of the districts formed of primi- 
tive rocks. This is said without reason, for I saw them as 
frequently in those districts, in proportion to their extent, 
as where other formations existed. It is also said that as 
they recede from the east they are extending west. This 
is also incorrect ; for, as I have before said, their limits 
are becoming more and more circumscribed. And if they 
should continue to diminish for twenty years to come, as 
they have during the last twenty, they will become almost 
extinct. 

It is unpleasant to contemplate the period, when this 



ANIMALS. 213 

noble animal will be seen no more, and will be known 
only in history and seen only upon canvass. Thousands 
and hundreds of thousands are slain yearly, not for 
food, but for robes, to gratify the luxury of civilized 
men, as seen in almost every vehicle for business or plea- 
sure. 






214 FISH. 



CHAPTER XV. 

Fish — description of salmon — salmon fishery — ornithology — dendrology 
— shrubbery — nutritive roots — geography — mountains — valleys — 
plains — forests — rivers — soil — seasons. 

I pass to a brief notice of the fish found in the waters 
of the Columbia. Their number is great, but their variety 
is small. The salmon, sturgeon, anchovy rock cod, and 
trout, are all that came under my particular observation. 
Shad have not been found in these western waters. The 
sturgeon of good quality and in large numbers, commence 
ascending the rivers in the first part of April, and furnish 
food to the suffering Indians. I say suffering, for before 
the opening of the spring, their stock of provisions is con- 
sumed, and they are seen searching for roots and any 
thing which will sustain life ; and though I do not feel 
authorized to say what others have said, that in the latter 
part of the winter and beginning of spring, they die with 
starvation in great numbers, yet they are brought to ex- 
treme want, and look forward with great solicitude, to the 
time when the sturgeon shall come into the river. A 
small fish, like the anchovy, about six inches long, very 
fat and well flavored, come into the river in great num- 
bers about the same time or a little before the sturgeon. 
The Indians obtain large quantities of oil from them by 
putting them into a netting strainer and exposing them to 
gentle heat. 

The rock codfish were not known to inhabit the waters 



pish. 215 

about the mouth of the Columbia, until the present year. 
They are very fine and easily caught. 

The salmon is far the most numerous and valuable fish 
found in these waters, and is of excellent flavor. It is well 
ascertained that there are not less than six different species 
or varieties of the true salmon that ascend these waters, 
commencing about the 20th of April. Their muscular 
power is exceedingly great, which is manifested in pass- 
ing the falls and rapids which would seem insuperable. 
They are never known to return, but are constantly press- 
ing their way upwards, so that it is not uncommon to find 
them in the small branches of the rivers near the very 
sources. We found them in September near the Rocky 
Mountains, where they are said to be as late as November 
and December. I saw some with parts of their heads 
worn to the bone, and the skin worn from various parts of 
their bodies, which appears to be the result of efforts to 
ascend, until they perish. Late in the season great num- 
bers are found dead, furnishing food for crows, vultures, 
eagles, foxes, and wolves — and even Indians ; for I have 
seen them drive away the crows, and appropriate the rem- 
nants to themselves. When the salmon become much 
emaciated, the flesh loses its rich redness, and it is seen in 
the skin, which gives the fish a beautiful appearance ; but 
when in this state it is hardly edible. It is worthy of 
notice, that the salmon has its preferences of water, select- 
ing some branches of the Columbia river and passing by 
others ; and those taken in some of the tributary streams 
are far better than those taken in others. While those 
which ascend the river never return, the young are seen 
in September descending on their way to the ocean, in 
immense numbers. It is believed these return the fourth 
year after their descent ; but this may be only conjecture. 
It is difficult to estimate how many salmon might be taken 



216 FISHERY. 

in these rivers, if proper measures were pursued ; and also 
what would be the results upon the numbers which would 
continue to enter and ascend. I think without doubt a 
plan might be devised and adopted to carry on a salmon 
fishery in this river to good advantage and profit. The 
experiment was made by a company from the United 
States, which failed, for it contained the elements of its 
own overthrow. The company sent out large quantities 
of rum, probably calculating on the fact that the Indians 
are fond of ardent spirits, and if they should gratify this 
appetite, they should enlist them in their favor, and as In- 
dians will do anything for rum, they would catch and sell 
fish to them. Whatever the object of the company might 
have been in sending and dealing out so much rum, the 
Indians were highly pleased with receiving it in pay for 
their salmon. But when they had thus obtained it they 
would become intoxicated and disqualified for labor, and 
more time was wasted in drunkenness, than employed in 
fishing. Besides the salmon were suffered to lie in the hot 
sun until they were much injured, if not wholly spoiled. 
The result was, that the company, as I was informed, ob- 
tained only about four hundred barrels of salmon, and 
made a losing voyage ; and the superintendent at Fort 
Vancouver told me, that when the company abandoned 
their business, they stored many barrels of rum at his fort. 
My information was not wholly derived from those who 
had been in the employment of that company, and gentle- 
men of the Hudson Bay Company, but in part from the 
Indians, who often spoke to me upon the subject by way 
of praise. They would say, " close, hias lum" signifying, 
good, plenty of rum. 

The birds of Oregon are not so numerous as those which 
inhabit civilized countries, probably because they have not 
access to the grain and fruit of cultivated fields, and the 



ORNITHOLOGY. 217 

woods and groves are more widely dispersed. But they 
are sufficiently numerous to employ an ornithologist pro- 
fitably, for a great length of time in collecting and preser- 
ving specimens. This region is particularly interesting 
from the fact, that in this as in other departments of natural 
science, it has hitherto been an unexplored field — no com- 
petent scientific person having visited this country to clas- 
sify the different genera and species. Mr. J. K. Town- 
send, of Philadelphia, an ornithologist, has spent two 
years in examining scientifically this field, and will 
probably give to the public the result of his labors. I 
am indebted to him for assistance in the following sum- 
mary. 

The largest part of the feathered race are migratory, and 
are seen only a part of the year. There are many, how- 
ever that reside here during the whole year. Among these 
are the majestic white-headed eagle, and the golden eagle, 
and three or four species of hawks, two species of jay, the 
magpie, Corvus pica, and thousands of ravens and crows ; 
several species of small sparrows, and two or three species 
of grouse, the common partridge of the United States, and 
the dusky grouse of the Rocky Mountains ; and also an 
interesting species of the dipper or water ousel. The 
habits of this bird are very curious and peculiar, particu- 
larly that of descending to the bottom of ponds and swiftly 
running streams, and there, in search of small shell-fish, 
remaining under water, for at least two minutes, during 
which time it will course about upon the pebbly bottom, 
with as much apparent ease and satisfaction, as if upon 
dry land. The red winged black-bird and the robin con- 
tinue through the year. The notes of the latter are heard 
even in the chill of the winter, though in feeble strains. 

As the autumn advances, the number of swans, geese, 
and ducks multiply. I have already mentioned these 
10 



218 ORNITHOLOGY. 

water fowl. The black cormorant is common upon the 
Columbia river, and there are other species of the same 
genus, seen about the shores of the Cape, which do not 
ascend the rivers. Among these is the violet green cor- 
morant, the most splendid of all the known species of cor- 
morants. The loon, or great northern diver, is very plen- 
tiful in this river. Gulls, terns, auks, and petrels, in 
great numbers, visit this river to seek shelter from the 
violent storms which agitate the ocean during the winter. 
The spring, with rising vegetation and opening flowers, 
brings its hosts of lovely feathered tribes, which remain 
for different periods of time ; many of them continue only 
a few weeks, and then retire to other parts for nidifica- 
tion. There are, however, great numbers that remain 
through the summer, and their delightful songs add to the 
charms of a fine morning of April and May. Among 
these are hundreds of warblers, wrens, titmice and nu- 
thatches. Of the warblers there are eleven species, six 
of which are new ; the other five are common to the 
States. Several of the species are but transient visitors, 
but most of them remain through the season. Of the 
wrens there are six species; three of the titmice, and 
two of the nuthatches. And in the train follow the 
thrushes, of which there are seven species, two of which 
are new ; of these Wilson's thrush is pre-eminent in 
sweetness of song. The fly-catchers number eight'species, 
three of which are new; and there are thirteen species of 
the finches, three of which are new. These are a lar^e 
and musical band, among which are several of the finest 
songsters in the world. In no instance do we find more 
richness and delicacy of plumage, with the most sweet 
melody of voice, than in a new species of large bullfinch, 
which visits this section of country in the spring. If these 
were domesticated, they would form a most valuable addi- 



DENDROLOGY. 219 

tion to any aviary. There are eight species of wood- 
peckers, four of which are new; and of the swallow tribe 
there are five species, one of which is new, and is the 
most beautiful of the family, characterized by a splendid 
changeable green plumage on the head and back, while 
the other parts are purple and white. About the middle 
of March the splendid little Nootka humming bird makes 
his appearance, coming so suddenly, that you wonder from 
whence he came, as the fact of his performing a long mi- 
gration of weeks with his delicate little wings, over a cold 
and flowerless country, or across the sea, seems incre- 
dible; The neck of this beautiful bird presents fine va- 
riations of color; now it is ruby red, with a metallic, 
lustre ; turn it, and the tints vary from purple to violet 
and crimson, according as the light falls upon it. 

I pass over the mention of many genera, and still more 
numerous species of the different birds of this region, as it 
is not my design to attempt a history of them, but only 
to give a succinct sketch, that some idea may be formed 
of the ornithological treasures of this interesting country. 

Having frequently made mention of the trees and shrub- 
bery west of the great mountains, I shall in this place only 
enumerate the principal, describing a few. I have said 
there are three species of fir, and that they constitute far 
the greatest part of the forest trees, and are very large. 
The three kinds are the red, yellow and white. They 
differ not only in the color of the wood, but also in their 
foliage. The foliage of the red is scattered on all sides 
of the branchlets in the same form as those found in the 
United States ; the yellow only on the upper side of the 
upper half of the twigs; the white is oppositely pinnated. 
The balsam is alike in the three different species, found in 
blisters on the bark, in the same form as in other countries. 

White pine is not native in the lower country, nor far 



220 DENDROLOGY. 

west of the main chain of the Rocky Mountains ; a few 
pitch are found in the same region with the white. Nor- 
way and yellow pine are native farther west, but not be- 
low the Cascades of the Columbia. The new species, 
which I have called the elastic pine, is far the most 
numerous, but I did not see any of these as far west as 
Walla Walla. 

The cedar is the common species, grows very large and 
tall, and is the best of the forest trees for various me- 
chanical uses. The yew is also found among the ever- 
greens, though it is scarce. The tamarisk is found in 
small sections of the country. The white oak, of good 
quality, and often large, is a common tree of the forest, 
and also the black, rough barked oak grows in some of 
the mountainous parts. In an excursion down the rich 
prairies below Fort Vancouver, where there are trees scat- 
tered about like shade trees upon a well cultivated farm, 
I measured a white oak, which was eight feet in diameter, 
continued large about thirty feet high, and then branched 
out immensely wide, under which Mr. T. and myself, with 
our horses, found an excellent shelter during a shower of 
rain. There are two kinds of ash, the common white ash 
and the broad leafed. The latter is very hard. There is 
also alder, which I have mentioned as growing very large, 
and on dry ground as well as on that which is low and 
swampy. 

There are three species of poplar, the common aspen, 
the cotton, and balm. The first is common in various 
parts of the United States, and is well known ; the second 
is commonly called cotton-wood, skirting rivers and 
streams as in the western States j the third is the Populus 
balsamifera, often called the Balm of Gilead. Its distin- 
guishing properties are ovate leaves, and a bitter balsam 
in a glutinous state found in the small twigs, but mostly in 



SHRUBBERY. 221 

the buds. This last species in some places spreads over 
large sections of bottom land, where the soil is uncom- 
monly good. White maple is found, but only in small 
quantities. Willows of various species are common in all 
parts of the country. * There is a tree in the lo^ er country 
which grows much in the form of the laurel or bay tree, 
but much larger — the bark is smooth and of a red bay 
color ; its leaves are ovate. It has been called the straw- 
berry tree, but I do not know with what propriety. There 
are no walnut or hickory trees west of the great moun- 
tains, nor chestnut of any species, or hard or sugar maple, 
or beach, linden or bass-wood, black cherry, cucumber, 
white-wood, elms, or any kind of birch, except a species 
of black birch which grows small ; nor are there any of 
the species of locusts, hackberry, or buckeye. I might 
lengthen out the catalogue of negatives, but the above ob- 
servations are sufficient to give a general view of the forest 
trees of the country. 

The varieties of shrubbery and plants are so numerous, 
that their examination would employ the botanist many 
months. I shall only sketch a few of those which are 
scattered over the prairies and through the forests. 
Among these are several varieties of the thorn-bush, many 
of which are large and fruitful. Those bearing the red 
apple, present, when they are ripe, a very beautiful appear- 
ance. There is one species peculiar to the country west 
of the mountains, the fruit of which is black and of a de- 
lightfully sweet taste, but not generally dispersed through 
the country. It is principally native about the Blue 
Mountains, the Walla Walla and Ummatilla rivers. The 
choke cherry is common to all parts of the country, and its 
fruit is very grateful where animal food is principally de- 
pended upon for subsistence. The salalberry is a sweet 
and pleasant fruit of a dark purple color, oblong, and 



222 PLANTS. 

about the size of a grape. The serviceberry is about the 
size of a small thorn apple, black when fully ripe, and plea- 
santly sweet like the whortleberry ; and the pambina is a 
bush cranberry. The varieties of the gooseberry are many 
— the common prickly, which grows very large on a 
thorny bush — the small white, which is smooth and very 
sweet — the large, smooth purple, and the smooth yellow, 
which are also of a fine flavor. All of these attain to a 
good maturity, and those growing on the prairies are very 
superior. There are three varieties of the currant, the 
pale red, the yellow, which are well tasted, and the black. 
Though these are a pleasant acid, yet they are not so pro- 
lific and. desirable as those which grow under the hand of 
cultivation. The beautiful shrub Symphoria racemosa, 
called the snowberry, and which is found in some of our 
gardens, is a native of this country, and grows here in 
'great abundance. 

Besides the common raspberries, there is a new species 
which grows in the forests, the berry of which is three 
times as large as the common, is a very delicate rich yel- 
low, but the flavor is less agreeable. There is a new 
species of sweet elder which I have already described. 
The climbing honeysuckle is among the first ornaments of 
nature. 

The sweet flowering pea grows spontaneously, and in 
some places embellishes large patches of ground. In some 
small sections red clover is found, differing, however, from 
the kind cultivated by our farmers, but not less sweet and 
beautiful ; white clover is found in the upper and moun- 
tainous parts. Strawberries are indigenous, and their fla- 
vor is more delicious than any I have tasted in other coun- 
tries. 

Sun-flowers, Helianthus, are common, but do not grow 
large ; also a species of broom-corn, is found in many 



PLANTS. 223 

places of the bottom-lands of the Columbia and other 
streams. To these may be added a wild grain somewhat 
resembling barley, or rye. Wild flax I have mentioned 
and described on page 9]. 

Among the nutritive roots, I have mentioned the wap- 
patoo and the cammas. The wappatoo, is the sagittaria, 
or arrow head, and is found only in the valley of the Co- 
lumbia below the Cascades. The root is bulbous, and be- 
comes soft by roasting, forming a nourishing and agree- 
able food, is much used by the Indians, and is an article of 
trade. It grows in shallow lakes and in marshes which 
are covered with water. The Indian women wade in 
search of this root, feel it out in the mud and disengage it 
w T ith their feet when it rises to the surface of the water 
and is secured. The cammas, a tunicated root, in the 
form of an onion, is of great importance to the Indians 
and grows in moist, rich ground. It is roasted, pounded 
and made into loaves, and dried, and has a taste resem- 
bling licorice. The cowish, or biscuit root, grows on dry 
land, somewhat larger than a walnut, tastes like a sweet 
potatoe, is prepared in the same manner for food as the 
cammas, and is a tolerable substitute for bread. To these 
may be added the ratine amere, or bitter root, which 
grows on dry ground, is fusiform, and though not pleasant 
to the taste, is very conducive to health ; also the common 
onion, and another characterized by its beautiful red 
flower, which often grows upon patches of volcanic sco- 
ria, where no other vegetation is seen. 

Although a description of the Oregon Territory has been 
necessarily interwoven in the narrative, yet a condensed 
account of its geography may with propriety be given 
here. In comparing the country west with that east of 
the mountains, especially the great valley of the Missis- 



224 GEOGRAPHY. 

sippi, we are impressed very powerfully with the strong 
contrast which their distinguishing features present. The 
valley of the Mississippi may be called the garden of the 
world — every part abounding in rich soil inviting cultiva- 
tion. We seldom see any barren or rocky wastes, any 
far extended swamps or marshes — no frozen moun- 
tains. Destitute of prominent land-marks to catch the eye 
of the traveler, he sees in the wide distance before him 
only the almost horizontal lines of level or rolling meadow. 
No one points him to the peaks of dim mountains, and tells 
him that the range divides two sister states, or separates two 
noble rivers. He sees no clouds resting on the shoulders of 
lofty Butes and blending their neutral tint with the hazy blue 
of the landscape before him — nor Tetons rearing their 
heads into the region of perpetual snow — and day after 
day he pursues his journey without any thing to create in 
his bosom emotions of the grand and the sublime, unless it 
be the vastness of the expanse. 

Beyond the Rocky Mountains, nature appears to have 
studied variety on the largest scale. Towering mountains 
and widely extended prairies, rich valleys and barren 
plains ; and large rivers with rapids, cataracts and falls, 
present a great diversity of prospect. The whole country 
is so mountainous, that there is not an elevation from 
which a person cannot see some of the immense ranges 
which intersect its different parts. On an elevation a 
short distance from Fort Vancouver, five isolated conical 
volcanic mountains, from ten to fifteen thousand feet high, 
whose tops are covered with perpetual snow, may be seen 
rising in the surrounding valley. There are three general 
ranges, west of the rocky chain of mountains; running in 
northern and southern directions. The first, above the 
falls of the Columbia river; the second, at and below the 



VALLEYS PLAINS. 225 

Cascades ; the third, towards and along the shores of the 
Pacific. From each of these, branches extend in different 
directions. Besides these there are others which are large 
and high, such as the blue mountains south of Walla 
Walla — the Salmon river mountains between the Salmon 
and the Coos-coots-ke rivers ; and also in the regions o f 
Okanagan and Colvile. 

Between these mountains are wide spread valleys and 
plains. The largest and most fertile valley is included 
between Deer Island on the west, to within twelve miles 
of the Cascades, and is about fifty -five miles wide, and ex- 
tending north and south to a greater extent than I had the 
means of definitely ascertaining; probably from Puget's 
sound on the north, to the Umbiqua river on the south. 
The Willamette river and a section of the Columbia are 
included in this valley. The valley south of the Walla 
Walla, called the Grand Round, is said to excel in fertility. 
To these may be added Pierre's Hole and the adjacent 
country ; also Racine Amere, east of the Salmon River 
Mountains. On Mill river which unites with the Colum- 
bia at Colvile, from the south, through a valley of more 
than fifty miles, there are rich bottom lands. While these 
are open and ready for cultivation, the hills on both sides 
of the valley are covered with woods. Other fertile sec- 
tions of considerable magnitude are dispersed over differ- 
ent parts of the country. To these may be subjoined ex- 
tensive plains, most of which are prairies well covered 
with grass. The whole region of country west of Salmon 
river mountains, the Spokein woods, Okanagan, and quite 
to the range of mountains which cross the Columbia at 
the Falls, is a vast prairie covered with grass, and the soil 
is generally good. Another large plain which is said to 
be very barren, lies off to the south and south-west of 

10* 



226 FORESTS RIVERS. 

Lewis' or Snake river, including the Shoshones' country ; 
and travelers who have passed through, have pronounced 
the interior of America a great barren desert ; but this is 
drawing a conclusion far too broad from premises so 
limited. So far as I have had opportunity for observa- 
tion, I should feel warranted in saying, that while some 
parts of Oregon are barren, large portions are well adapted 
to grazing ; and others, though less extensive, are adapted 
to both tillage and grazing. 

Upon the subject of forests, I would only observe, that a 
large proportion of the country west of the mountains is 
destitute, while some parts are well supplied. I have al- 
ready mentioned the lower country, from below the Falls 
of the Columbia to the ocean, as being well wooded, and 
densely in many parts, especially near the ocean. The 
mountains north of the Salmon river, and the country 
about the Spokein river, and so on still farther north, are 
well furnished w T ith forests, and in some other sections 
there are partial supplies. 

The country in general is well watered, being inter- 
sected with lakes, and by many large rivers and their tri- 
butary streams. This might be inferred from the fact that 
there are so many mountains, upon the sides and at the 
bases of which are multitudes of the finest springs. No 
country furnishes water more pure and of such crystal 
clearness. As the spring and summer heat commences, 
the snows of the mountains melt, and begin to swell the 
rivers in the beginning of May, and the freshet continues 
to increase until June, when it is the greatest, and over- 
flows large sections of the low lands of the valleys, which 
have the appearance of inland seas. While the rivers of 
this country are numerous, and several of them are large, 
yet inland navigation will be attended with difficulties, 



RIVERS. 227 

not only from the many falls and rapids, but from the la- 
bor and expense necessary to construct canals through 
the immensely hard basaltic rock formation. The Colum- 
bia has three large falls in the distance of seven hundred 
miles ; the Cascades, one hundred and thirty miles from 
the ocean, at the head of tide water; the Falls of the Co- 
lumbia, forty miles above the Cascades; and the Kettle 
Falls, five hundred and thirty miles above the Falls of the 
Columbia. There are many rapids, but the Nine-mile Ra- 
pids, thirty miles above Walla Walla, are the most em- 
barrassing. The other rivers are still more obstructed 
with falls and rapids, except the Willamette, which has 
only one fall at the head of its tide water, thirty miles 
above its junction with the Columbia. The obstruction to 
a canal around this, is far less than around the above 
named falls ; and when constructed, the navigation may 
be extended fifty miles farther into the country. While 
such is the condition of this country in respect to its inter- 
nal navigation and commerce, the ingenuity of man in our 
clay, has provided something which can be most advan- 
tageously applied as a remedy. I mean rail roads. In 
making observations, with reference to this very subject, I 
was interested to see the wisdom and benevolence of the 
Creator, in providing passes through those stupendous 
ranges of mountains, which generally run from north to 
south, and I thought how easily the whole territory might 
be traversed in this way ; and the large pentagonal basal- 
tic columns are ready at hand to facilitate the work. No 
country in the world furnishes better opportunities for wa- 
ter power to be applied to manufacturing purposes; al- 
most every river and stream having falls, cascades and 
rapids. 

The climate is far "more temperate and warm west of 



228 THE SEASONS. 

the Rocky Mountains, than east in the same latitude, 
there being at least ten degrees difference of latitude, 
as may be seen by the subjoined meteorological table. 
There were only three days in the whole winter of my re- 
sidence in the country, that the thermometer sunk as low 
as 22° Farenheit, at Fort Vancouver ; and there were 
only two mornings in the whole month of March when 
white frost was seen. Snow does not fall deep excepting 
upon the mountains ; in the valleys it rarely continues 
more than a few days, or at the farthest only a few weeks ; 
and by the latter part of February or the first of March, 
ploughing and sowing are commenced. And not only is 
the climate uncommonly delightful, but it is also generally 
healthy, and there are scarcely any prevailing diseases, 
except the fever and ague in the lower country, which, as 
has been stated, commenced in 1829 - y and the opthalmy, 
which is very general among the Indians of the plains. It 
is worthy of notice that thunder and lightning are seldom 
witnessed west of the great mountains, but in the valley 
of the Mississippi, they are very frequent and unusually 
heavy. 

The seasons are divided into two, the rainy in the win- 
ter, commencing in November, and terminating in May; 
the dry in the summer, which is entirely destitute of rain ? 
and during which time the atmosphere is remarkably se- 
rene, while the daily prairie winds relieve the heat of the 
sun, and the season is most delightful. The entire desti- 
tution of rain, showers, and dew, during summer does not 
exclude fertility ; nor is it peculiar to this country, for the 
same is true of the whole Pacific coast west of the Andes, 
and also of the Sandwich and Society Islands — yet by va- 
rious methods of irrigation, the soil is rendered productive. 
In the country which I am describing, the winter being so 



THE SEASONS. 229 

mild, the grain sown in the fall and spring advances be- 
yond injury before the drouth becomes severe, and the grass 
attains its growth and dries into hay upon the ground ; 
and there being no moisture to decompose it, retains its 
nutritive properties. 

This territory is, notwithstanding, well supplied with 
water ; for the benevolent wisdom of God has placed the 
mountains, covered with perpetual snows, just where they 
are needed, and where the heat of spring and summer so 
far melts these vast reservoirs, as to fill the rivers and 
streams, and the summer freshet continues for many 
weeks, 



230 INDIANS OF THE PLAINS. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

Character and condition of the Indians — Indians of the plains — their 
persons — dress — wealth — habits — physical character — manufactures 
— their religion — wars — vices — moral disposition — superstitions — me- 
dicine men. 

As it was the principal object of my tour to ascertain 
the character and condition of the Indians beyond the 
Rocky Mountains, their numbers, and the prospects of es- 
tablishing the gospel among them, it will not only be 
proper but important to give a full and connected descrip- 
tion of them in these respects. In doing this, while I 
have availed myself of information collected from men of 
intelligence and integrity, I have confined my statements to 
those things which have been corroborated by, or came 
under my own observations ; feeling it a duty to avoid the 
many fabulous accounts which have been given of In- 
dian character and customs. Romance may please and 
excite admiration, fiction may charm, but only truth can 
instruct. 

I will first describe the Indians of the plains. These 
live in the upper country, from the falls of the Columbia to 
the Rocky Mountains, and are called the Indians of the 
plains, because a large portion of their country is prairie 
land. The principal tribes are the Nez Perces, Cayuses, 
Walla Wallas, Bonax, Shoshones, Spokeins, Flatheads, 
Coeur d'Alene, Ponderas, Cootanies, Kettlefalls, Okana- 
gans, and Carriers. These do not include probably more 
than one half of those east of the Falls, but of others I 
have obtained but little definite knowledge. They all re- 



COSTUME. 231 

semble each other in general characteristics. In their 
persons the men are tall, the women are of common sta- 
ture, and both are well formed. While there is a strong 
natural as well as moral resemblance among all Indians, 
the complexion of these is a little fairer than other In- 
dians. Their hair and eyes are black, their cheek bones 
high, and very frequently they have aquiline noses. Their 
hands, feet, and ankles, are small and well formed ; and 
their movements are easy, if not graceful. They wear their 
hair long, part it upon their forehead, and let it hang in 
tresses on each side, or down behind. 

There is a great resemblance in the dress of different 
tribes, which generally consists of a shirt, worn over long 
leggins, or a sort of pantaloons, with moccasons for the 
feet. These are of dressed leather made of the skins of 
deer, antelope, mountain goat and sheep j and over these, 
they wear a blanket or a buffalo robe. The borders of 
their garments are ornamented with long fringes. They 
are fond of ornaments, and their heads and garments are 
sometimes decorated with feathers, beads, buttons, and 
porcupine quills ; these last are colored red, yellow, blue, 
and black, and worked with great skill and variety of de- 
sign. They appear to have less of the propensity to adorn 
themselves with painting, than the Indians east of the 
mountains ; but not unfrequently vermilion, mixed with 
red clay, is used not only upon their faces, but upon their 
hair. The dress of the women does not vary much from 
that of the men, excepting, that instead of the shirt, they 
have what we may call a frock coming down to the ankles. 
Many of them wear a large cape made of dressed skins, 
often highly ornamented with large oblong beads of blue, 
red, purple, and white, arranged in curved lines covering 
the whole. Some of the daughters of the chiefs, when 
clothed in their clean, white dresses of antelope skins, with 



232 WEALTH. 

their fully ornamented capes coming down to the waist, 
and mounted upon spirited steeds, going at full speed, their 
ornaments glittering in the sun-beams, make an appear- 
ance that would not lose in comparison with equestrian 
ladies of the States. Their horses are not less finely ca- 
parisoned with blue and scarlet trimmings about their 
heads, breasts, and loins, hung with little brass bells. 

While a want of cleanliness is a characteristic of all 
heathen, the Indians of the plains are less reprehensible 
than others, and are far more neat than those of the lower 
country towards the Pacific. It is not to be understood 
that there are not those among them who are poor, suf- 
fering from the want of food and clothing. 

Their wealth consists in their horses, and their conse- 
quence depends in a great degree upon the number they 
possess, some owning several hundreds ; and that family 
is poor whose numbers are not sufficient for every man, 
woman and child to be mounted, when they are traveling 
from place to place ; and also to carry all their effects. 
In these respects they are far better supplied than any 
tribes I saw east of the mountains. While their horses 
are their wealth, they derive but little from them for the 
support of themselves and families ; for they do not em- 
ploy them to cultivate the earth ; and the market for them 
is so low, that they command but a small price. A good 
horse will not sell for more than enough to purchase a 
blanket, or a few small articles of merchandize. For sub- 
sistence, they necessarily depend upon hunting and fishing, 
and gathering roots and berries. Their mode of cooking 
is plain and simple.* Most of their food is roasted, and they 
excel in roasting fish. The process is to build a small fire 
in the centre of their lodge, to fix the fish upon a stick two 
or three feet long, and place one end in the ground so as 
to bring the fish partly over the fire, and then by a slow 



HABITS. . 233 

process it is most thoroughly roasted without scorching, 
or scarcely changing the color. The principal art con- 
sists in taking time, and our best cooks might improve by 
following their mode. 

The habits of Indians are said to be indolent. As a 
general remark it may be true, but I saw but very little to 
confirm its truth among the Indians of the plains ; for I 
rarely saw any of these Indians not engaged in some ob- 
ject of pursuit ; not the most productive perhaps, but such 
as elicited their attention. While I believe that the re- 
semblance, both physical and moral, of all the different 
nations and tribes of Indians, spread over large portions of 
t he continent of America, is greater than is seen in any 
people of any other country of equal extent; yet if it is 
true, that as a general fact, as some authors have said, 
* they are morose and gloomy in their countenances ; sul- 
len, or bacchanalian in their dispositions ; that they are 
rarely so joyful as to laugh unless excited by ardent spirits ; 
that they are taciturn and never indulge in mirth; that 
they are obtuse in sympathy, and destitute of social affec- 
tions; that in proud disdain they turn away from what- 
ever would excite curiosity ; that no common motives or 
endearments excite them to action ;" if these things are 
true, then the Indians of Oregon are an exception to the 
general fact. In all the above named particulars, I saw 
no special difference between them and other nations. As 
a part of the human family, they have the same natural 
propensities and the same social affections. They are 
cheerful and often gay, sociable, kind and affectionate ; 
and anxious to receive instruction in whatever may con- 
duce to their happiness here or hereafter. It is worse 
than idle to speak of " physical insensibility inwrought 
into the animal nature of the Indians, so that their bodies 
approximate to the insensibility of a horse's hoofs.' , The 



234 MANUFACTURES. 

influence of remarks of this kind is to produce, in the bo- 
soms of all who read them, the same insensibility that is 
charged upon the native character of the Indians. To re- 
present their characters and their restoration to the com- 
mon feelings of humanity so hopeless, is to steel the heart 
of even Christianity itself, if it were possible, against all 
sympathy, and to paralyze all exertions and effort to save 
them from the twofold destruction to which they doom 
them, temporal and eternal. Is this the reason that Chris- 
ians are sitting m such supineness over their condition, 
and that the heart-thrilling appeals for teachers to en- 
lighten them are disregarded ? Is this the reason, that 
while the philanthrophy of the United States' citizens to- 
wards them is so widely blazoned, those who are sent to 
teach them the arts of civilized life, are sitting quietly on 
the borders in governmental pay, while the Indians are 
roaming still over the prairies in. search of uncertain and 
precarious game ? I forbear to tell the whole story. 

They have but few manufactures, and those are the 
most plain and simple, not extending much beyond dress- 
ing the skins of animals, and making them into clothing ; 
making bows and arrow T s and some few articles of furni- 
ture. In dressing skins they never make any use of bark 
or tannin. Their process is to remove the hair and flesh 
from the skins by scraping them with a hard stone or wood, 
or when it can be obtained, a piece of iron hoop ; and 
then besmearing them with the brains of some animal, they 
smoke them thoroughly and rub them until they are soft; 
and after this bleach them with pure white clay. Their 
mode of smoking them is to excavate a small place in the 
ground, about a foot deep, and over this to construct a 
fixture in the form of a lodge, a few feet wide at the base 
and brought to a point at the top. Then they build a 
small fire in the centre, and place the skins around upon 



MANUFACTURES. 235 

the frame work, so as to make the enclosure almost smoke 
tight. The process occupies about one day. Their mode 
of dressing buffalo robes is different. They stretch the 
skin upon the ground, flesh side up, fastening it down with 
pins around the border, and then with an instrument formed 
something like a cooper's adz, made of stone, or wood 
overlaid with a piece of iron, brought to a blunt edge 
like the currier's knife, they clear from it all remaining 
flesh, and let it thoroughly dry. After this, with the same 
instrument, they work upon it with a pounding, hewing 
stroke, until they have bro.ught it to a suitable thickness 
and rendered it soft and white, as our buffalo robes are when 
brought into market. It is a work of great labor, and is 
performed by the women. We little think how much toil 
it costs a woman to prepare one of these robes, and then 
how little is paid for it by the purchaser ; a pound of to- 
bacco or a bunch of beads, is as much as the Indian ge- 
nerally receives. 

Their bows are made of the most elastic wood, strength- 
ened with the tendons of animals glued upon the back side, 
and the string is made of the same substance. Their ar- 
rows are made of heavy wood, with one end tipped with 
a sharp stone or pointed iron, and the other pinnated with 
a feather. While the first is to pierce, the latter is to go- 
vern the direction. Their bows and arrows perform as- 
tonishing execution, and they manage them with great 
dexterity. 

Most of the cooking utensils, which they now use, are 
obtained from traders, and do not often extend beyond a 
brass kettle, tin pail, and a very few knives. They have 
bowls which they manufacture very ingeniously from the 
horns of buffalo ; and sometimes, those that are larger and 
more solid, from the horns of the big mountain sheep. 
They have spoons of very good structure made of buffalo 



236 MANUFACTURES. 

horns ; also various kinds of baskets of rude workmanship. 
Their saddles are rude, somewhat resembling the Spanish 
saddle, having a high knob forward, and rising high on 
the back part ; generally sitting uneasily upon the horse's 
back. Their bridles consist of a rope well made of the 
hair or shag of the buffalo, eight or ten feet long, fastened 
in the centre to the under jaw of the horse, and the ends 
are brought over the neck for reins. The lasso, which is 
used for catching horses and some kinds of wild animals, 
is a long rope with a large noose at one end, and the other 
end is held firmly in the hand ; the whole is coiled, and 
when the distance permits it to be thrown, it is usually so 
dexterously done, as to bring the noose over the animal's 
head. When mounted, they often have a long leather 
thong, or a rope, fastened upon the horse's neck, which 
trails upon the ground, and is frequently suffered to remain 
when the horse is turned loose, for the convenience of more 
easily catching him again. 

Their canoes, before they obtained iron hatchets of the 
traders, were, with great labor and patience, made with 
hatchets of stone ; and even now, cost them no small effort. 
A canoe of good construction is valued as high as one or 
two good horses. Their fishing nets are another article 
which is well constructed, formed of wild flax ; and in 
every particular like our scoop nets. 

As regards the religion of the Indians, I have already 
stated that they believe in one God, in the immortality of 
the soul, and in future rewards and punishments. But 
while these are the prominent points of their belief, defi- 
nite ideas of a religious nature appear to be extremely 
limited, both in number and in comprehensiveness. As 
much as this, however, appears to be true. They believe 
in one Great Spirit, who has created all things, governs 
all important events, who is the author of all good, and 



RELIGION BELIEF. 237 

the only object of religious homage. They believe he 
may be displeased with them for their bad conduct, and in 
his displeasure bring calamities upon them. They also 
believe in an evil spirit, whom they call cinim keneki 
meohot cinmo cimo ; that is, the black chief below T , w T ho 
is the author of all the evils which befall them, unde- 
served as a punishment from the Great Spirit above. 
They believe that the soul enters the future w 7 orld with 
a similar form, and in circumstances like those under 
which it existed in this life. They believe that in a future 
state, the happiness of the good consists in an abundance 
and enjoyment of those things which they value here ; that 
their present sources of happiness will be carried to per^- 
fection ; and that the punishment of the bad will consist 
in entire exclusion from every source of happiness, and in 
finding all causes of misery here, greatly multiplied here- 
after. Thus, their ideas of future happiness and misery are. 
found to vary according to their different situations and 
employments in life. It is difficult, if not impossible, to 
ascertain any thing of their religious belief beyond these 
general notions. The number of words and terms in their 
language expressive of abstract and spiritual ideas is very 
small, so that those who wish to instruct them in these 
subjects, are compelled to do it by means of illustrations 
and circumlocutions, and the introduction of words from 
foreign languages. Besides, conscious of their ignorance, 
they are for the most part, unwilling to expose it, by re- 
vealing the little knowledge w ? hich they possess. Indeed, 
wherever a feeling of ignorance upon any subject prevails, 
we find that all endeavors to elicit the true amount of 
knowledge, are repelled or evaded. Even men of talents, 
w T ith us, who converse fluently upon most subjects, are of- 
ten silent when religious subjects are introduced. V 

I am far from believing the many long and strange tra- 



238 war. 

ditions, with which we are often entertained. It is more 
than probable, that they are in most instances the gratui- 
tous offerings of designing and artful traders and hunters 
to that curiosity, which is ever awake and attentive to 
subjects of this description. The Indians themselves 
would often be as much surprised at the rehearsal of these 
traditions, as those are for whose amusement they are fab- 
ricated. My own opinion is confirmed by that of several 
gentlemen of integrity and veracity, who stand at the 
head of the Hudson Bay Company, who have long been 
resident in the Indian country, and have become exten- 
sively acquainted with their languages. 

The Indians west of the great chain of mountains, have 
no wars among themselves, and appear to be averse to 
them, and do not enter into battle except in self-defense, 
and then only in the last extremity. Their only wars are 
with the Blackfeet Indians, whose country is along the 
east border of the Rocky Mountains, and who are con- 
stantly roving about in war parties, on both sides, in quest 
of plunder. When the Indians on the west meet with any 
of these parties, they avoid an encounter if possible, but if 
compelled to fight, they show a firm, undaunted, uncon- 
querable spirit, and rush upon their enemies with the 
greatest impetuosity; and it is said that one Nez Perce, or 
Flathead warrior, is a match for three Blackfeet. The 
only advantage which the latter have over the former 
consists in their numbers, there being more than twenty 
thousand of the Blackfeet Indians. When an enemy is 
discovered, every horse is driven into camp, and the wo- 
men take charge of them, while every man seizes his 
weapons of war /whatever they may be, mounts his horse, 
and waits firm and undismayed to see if hostilities must 
ensue. If a battle cannot be avoided, they rush forward 
to meet their foes, throwing themselves flat upon their 



WAR VICES. 239 

horses as they draw near, and fire, and wheel, and reload, 
and again rush full speed to the second encounter. This 
is continued until victory is decided, which is as often by 
the failure of ammunition, as by the loss of men. Very fre- 
quently, when the Blackfeet see the white men with the 
Nez Perces or Flatheads, they decline a battle, though far 
superior in numbers, knowing that the white men can fur- 
nish a large supply of ammunition ; and in such cases they 
will raise a white flag, and come in to smoke the pipe of 
peace. The Nez Perce or Flathead chief, on such an oc- 
casion, will say, " we accept your offer to smoke the pipe 
of peace, but it is not in ignorance that your heart is war, 
and your hand blood, but we love peace. You give us 
the pipe, but blood always follows." 

But these Indians are not without their vices. Gam- 
bling is one of the most prominent, and is a ruling passion 
which they will gratify to the last extremity. It is much 
practiced in running horses and foot races by men, women 
and children, and they have games of chance played with 
sticks or bones. "When I told the Nez Perces that gam- 
bling is wrong, and a violation of the tenth command- 
ment ; for it is coveting the property of another, and taking 
it without an equivalent, as much as stealing ; they said 
they did not know it before, but now they know God for- 
bids it they will do so no more. Theft is generally sup- 
posed to be inbred in the Indians, but I was pleased to dis- 
cover that the tribes of the plains held it in abhorrence, 
and would punish it severely should it occur. The Sho- 
shones are said to be addicted to this habit in some de- 
gree. 

Drunkenness is a stranger vice among these nations, 
their remove from the sources of this evil being their secu- 
rity. It is not to be supposed that their virtue, any more 
than that of other tribes, would be invulnerable if exposed 



240 GOOD MORALS. 

to temptation, for this habit, like their proverbial love for 
finery and ornament, is acquired by the facilities for indul- 
gence which are thrown in their way. The trader goes 
far into the interior with his packs of beads, buttons, paints, 
&c. to exchange for furs, and teaches these ignorant peo- 
ple to set the same value on his articles, that their furs are 
intrinsically worth — but who supposes that they would not 
know the comparative worth of more useful goods, if they 
w T ere offered them ?* 

The moral disposition of these Indians is very commend- 
able, certainly as much as that of any people that can be 
named. They are kind to strangers, and remarkably so to 
each other. While among them I saw no contentions, and 
heard no angry words from one to another. They mani- 
fest an uncommon desire to be instructed that they may 
obey and fulfil all moral obligations. Harmony and peace 
prevail in all their domestic concerns. But when they 
have any difficult subject, which they know not how to 
dispose of, they go to their chiefs, and if it involves any 
important principle, the chief brings the case to any white 
man, who may be among them, to obtain his opinion, 
which is generally followed. They are scrupulously 
honest in all their dealings, and lying is scarcely known. 
They say they fear to sin against the Great Spirit, and 
therefore have but one heart, and their tongue is straight 
and not forked. And so correctly does the law written 
upon their hearts accord with the written law of God, that 
every infraction of the seventh command of the decalogue 
is punished with severity. 



* An attempt was made not long since, by an United States citizen, 
to construct a distillery on the Willamette river, but for want of suitable 
materials he failed in his object. 



SUPERSTITIONS. 241 

Captain Wyeth, who was a long time beyond the 
mountains, remarked, speaking of the Flathead In- 
dians, which would be equally true of others in that 
region of country : " During the time I have been 
with them, the last thing, even to a bead or pin, is 
brought to you, if found ; and often things that have 
been thrown away. Neither have I known any quar- 
relling, or lying. This absence of all quarrelling the 
more surprised me, when I came to see the various 
occasions that would have given rise to it among the 
whites. * * # They have a mild, playful, laughing, 
disposition, and this is portrayed in their countenances. 
They are polite and unobtrusive. When one speaks, 
the others pay strict attention. Even the children 
are more peaceable than other children. I never 
heard any angry word from them, nor any quarrel- 
ling, although there were, at least, five hundred of 
them together, and continually at play. With all this 
quietness of spirit, they are brave when put to the 
test. 

I have witnessed but few things among them indi- 
cative of superstition. The practice of the Shoshones 
of cutting themselves, for the dead, I have already 
mentioned. The Carriers burn their dead. When a 
person dies, all the relations must be assembled, which 
often occupies many days ; and if a husband is de- 
ceased, the wife must lay her head upon the bosom of 
her husband every night, to show her affection for 
him ; and when the funeral pile is constructed, the 
corpse laid upon it, and the fire enkindled, during the 
burning of the body, she must frequently put her 
hands through the flame and lay them upon his bo- 
som, to show her continued affection. Their first 
chief lost his wife. He was asked if he would show 
11 



242 MEDICINE MEN. 

the affection for her, which was required of others. 
He thought on account of his chieftainship he might 
be excused. The people were urgent, and he con- 
sented, and so great was the pain which he en- 
dured, that he was willing the practice should be 
ameliorated, and it is hoped it will soon be abolished. 

They have no unlucky days, but as a substitute for 
the white man's Friday, or seeing the new moon over 
the left shoulder, they have a portentous howling of a 
large wolf, which they call the medicine wolf. If they 
hear this when travelling, sadness is at once visible in 
their countenances, for it is considered as foreboding 
some calamity near. 

Among their superstitions may be classed their 
mode of curing diseases. They have what are called 
medicine* men, who make no pretensions to any 
knowledge of diseases or skill in medicine ; but they 
have a bag in which are deposited various relics. 
The patient is stretched upon the ground ; a number 
of persons encircle him and sing the medicine song. 
The medicine man enters the circle and commences 
his magical incantations by holding the medicine bag 
over him, which is to operate as a charm ; he uses 
many gestures, grimaces, and inarticulate sounds ; 
pats or kneads the patient with his hands, beginning 
very softly, and gradually increasing to a consider- 
able degree of severity j blows into his ears, and prac- 
tices other like ceremonies. By this process the pa- 
tient is often much fatigued, and thrown into a free 
perspiration, and his imagination is much excited. 
When the friction has been sufficiently employed, the 



*Their worJ which we render medicine, as used by Indiaus, signifies 
any thiug mysterious. 



MEDICINE MEN. 243 

imagination well wrought upon, and the medicine bag 
has invisibly imparted its virtues, the medicine man 
presents some trifling article, such as a small bone, a 
stick, a pebble, and says he has taken it from the body 
of the patient, and that it was the cause of the disease ; 
or he gives a heavy puff upward, and says the disease 
has come out of the patient and gone upward, and 
then asks him if he does not feel better. The patient 
says yes ; for he certainly feels better in being relieved 
from the process. And often the relief is permanent ; 
for the friction may have been beneficial, and the 
imagination often performs wonders. The medicine 
man stands responsible for the life of his patient, and 
if the patient dies, not unfrequently his own life is 
taken by some of the relatives of the deceased. He 
makes a heavy charge for his services, often a horse, 
and why should he not ? for who in such cases would 
endanger his life without being well paid ? In some 
parts of the country, but more especially in the lower 
country, the lives of medicine men are short, and it 
would be supposed this would deter others from enter- 
ing into the profession. But the love of fame and 
wealth is powerful among heathen as well as among 
civilized communities. Undoubtedly the medicine 
men, when they begin their profession, know that 
they are practicing deception, but by habitual deceit, 
by the confidence others place in their skill, and by 
the effects produced through the medium of the ima- 
gination, they finally believe in the efficacy of their 
own enchantments, and that they are consequential 
men. 

I have seen no " root doctors" in any tribe east or 
west of the mountains. The Indians, so far as I have 
had an opportunity of ascertaining, have but few dis- 



244 STEAM BATH. 

eases, and for the cure of these they use but little 
medicine ; nor do they profess to have any knowledge 
of remedies beyond a few specifics. 

The warm bath is used both by sick and healthy 
persons in the following manner. They construct a 
steam bath in the form of an oblong oven, two or three 
feet high, about six feet long, made of willow branches, 
each end inserted into the ground, forming an arch, 
which is covered with grass and mud, or more 
generally with skins. In this they place a number of 
hot stones, upon which they pour water. The person 
who is to go through the process, enters and is en- 
closed nearly air tight, and remains until a very 
profuse perspiration is produced, and often until nearly 
suffocated. He then comes out and plunges at once 
into cold water, and no regard is paid to the season 
of the year, whether summer or winter. 

They are wholly destitute of the means of obtaining 
an education, and therefore are ignorant of all the sci- 
ences. In things with which they are conversant, 
such as appertain to hunting, war, and their limited 
domestic concerns, they manifest observation, skill, 
and intellect ; but beyond these their knowledge is 
very limited. They necessarily compute by numbers, 
but their arithmetic is entirely mental. It is an inter- 
esting fact, that of four different languages, which I 
examined, the mode of counting is by tens. 

The Klicatat nation count with different words up 
to ten, Lah's, one ; neep't, two ; and so to ten ; then 
they add wappena to lah's ; as lah's wappena, eleven ; 
neep't wappena, twelve ; neep't tit, twenty ; and in like 
manner to one hundred, and so on to a thousand by 
hundreds. In the Nez Perce language, nox is one, la- 
peet, two, metait, three, &c. After ten they repeat 



music. 245 

the radical numbers, with the addition, tit, as noxtit, 
eleven ; laaptit, twenty ; metaptit, thirty. This may 
be a sufficient specimen for the four languages, as the 
other two proceed in the same manner. 

They count their years by snows ; as maika elaix, 
snows six, that is, six years ; and months by moons, 
and days by sleeps ; pinemeek pe-e~lep, sleeps four, 
(four days.) It is not common that they know their 
exact age ; nor are they very accurate in chronology. 

They are very fond of singing, and generally have 
flexible and sweet-toned voices ; and on notes below 
the octave, they make the most full and smooth sound 
I have ever heard by the human voice. Most of their 
singing is without words, excepting upon some special 
occasions. .They use hi, ah, in constant repetition, as 
we use fa, sol, la ; and instead of several different 
parts harmonizing, they only take eights, one above 
another, never exceeding three. They are conscious 
of the inferiority of their tunes to ours, and wished to 
be instructed in this department of knowledge. In 
this land of moral desolations, it was cheering to hear 
even the most simple strains of melody and harmony. 



246 INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

The Indians of the Lower Country. 

The Indians of the lower country are those I in- 
clude between the shores of the Pacific and the Falls 
of the Columbia river, and from Puget's Sound to Up- 
per California. The principal nations are the Che- 
nooks, the Klicatats, the Callapooahs, and the Umba- 
quas. These nations are divided into a great number 
of tribes, which have their respective chiefs, yet each 
nation has its principal chief, who is head over all the 
several tribes, and has a general superintending con- 
trol. These Indians are in their persons rather below 
the stature of those of the plains, or upper country, 
and not generally so well formed. The women are 
uncouth, and, from a combination of causes, appear old 
at an early age. Among these causes, the habit of 
painting, in which they indulge, destroys the smooth 
and healthy appearance of the skin. 

These Indians appear to have less sensibility, both 
physical and moral, than those of the upper country. 
Their dependence for subsistence being mostly con- 
fined to fishing and fowling, they are not so well sup- 
plied with clothing as the upper Indians, who hunt the 
buffalo, the elk, the antelope, and other game. The 
lower Indians obtain some game and clothing from the 
posts of the Hudson Bay Company. I have often seen 
them going about, half naked, when the thermometer 
ranged between thirty and forty degrees, and their 
children barefooted and barelegged in the snow ; and 



INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 247 

yet, when exposed to fatigue, they cannot endure the 
intensity of the season as well as civilized people. I 
have noticed this, when I have had them employed in 
conveying me any considerable distance in a canoe. 
Their taste and smelling are obtuse, rendered so by 
their filthy habits and contaminated food. But they are 
quick to catch correctly a distant sound, and remarka- 
bly keen-sighted, acquired by their habits of closely 
and carefully watching for game. These nations, from 
their mode of subsistence, being more stationary than 
those of the plains, have more durable and comforta- 
ble habitations, which are built of split plank, after the 
manner of Wanaxka's, near the falls of the Willamette, 
which I have described. Some of them indulge the 
fancy of making their doors like the face of a man, the 
mouth being the place of entrance. 

The lower Indians do not dress as well, nor with as 
good taste as the upper. Their robes are much shorter, 
and are made of inferior materials ; such as deer skins. 
with the hair on, and skins of hares and of squirrels. 
I saw many women of the poorer class, dressed in a 
short petticoat or skirt, made of cedar bark, or a spe- 
cies of strong grass twisted into strands, one end of 
which is secured in a girdle or band around the waist, 
while the other is suspended, knotted and fringed. 
These are a substitute for cloth, which they are too 
poor to obtain. The'nations near the ocean, who have 
intercourse with sailors, and access to ardent spirits, 
are as degraded as those on our frontiers, and from 
the same causes. By their communication with those 
who furnish them with the means of intoxication, and 
who have introduced kindred vices, they have become 
indolent and extremely filthy in their habits, and more 
debased than the beasts of the earth. How perfectly 



24B INDIANS OP THE LOWER COUNTRY. 

neat are the deer and the antelope ; how industrious 
the beaver and the bee ; how cleanly is the plumage 
of the bird ; how well adapted to repose are their 
habitations ; in a word, how different are all their ha- 
bits, from those of fallen, polluted man. It is not the 
want of rational powers, but their abuse by sin which 
has thus degraded him, and nothing but Christianity 
can bring him back to God, and the comforts and de- 
cencies of life. 

The want- of moral instruction, the influence of 
bad examples, and unrestrained licentiousness have 
brought the lower Indians into a state of wretchedness, 
which will be entailed upon future generations, and 
which nothing but the healing power of the gospel can 
ever eradicate. There are some exceptions but not 
enough to save these remnants of once populous na- 
tions, if benevolence and humanity do not soon break 
their slumbers. It is to be hoped the missionaries now 
in the field, by the blessing of God, will interpose a 
barrier to these sweeping desolations. 

In their religious belief, they do not materially differ 
from the upper Indians. While they believe in one 
Great Spirit, they in addition believe in subordinate 
spirits, or invisible agencies, to whom they ascribe 
much the same power as has been ascribed to witch- 
craft. We had a specimen of this when the May 
Dacre was passing down the river in October. On 
the north side of the Columbia, near the confluence 
of the Cowalitz, there are some dark recesses in the 
basaltic rocks. An Indian chief on board warned 
Capt. L. not to approach those dark places ; for they 
were the residence of bad spirits, who would destroy 
the ship and all on board. Capt. L. purposely passed 
near the place ; and the Indian was astonished that 



INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 249 

we escaped unhurt, and concluded there must have 
been some great " medicine " in the ship which de- 
fended us. They believe in the immortality of the 
soul, and that in the future state we shall have the 
same wants as in this life. Under the influence of this 
belief, the wife of Calpo, an influential chief of the 
Chenook village near Cape Disappointment, on losing 
a daughter in the year 1829, killed two female slaves 
to attend her to the world of spirits, and for the par- 
ticular purpose of rowing her canoe to the far off 
happy regions of the south, where they locate their 
imaginary elysium. She deposited her daughter, with 
the two slain females by her side in a canoe, with arti- 
cles of clothing and domestic implements. She was the 
daughter of Concomly, and a woman of distinguished 
talents and respectability, a firm friend of white men, 
and had more than once saved them from death. 
How dark was the mind of this talented woman, and 
how differently would she have conducted under the 
influence of divine revelation ! These Indians never 
mention the name of their relatives after they are 
dead. 

It is only in the lower country of the Oregon Terri- 
tory, and along the coast, that slavery exists. It was 
formerly practiced in the upper country, but was long 
since abolished. The Walla Walla tribe are de- 
scended from slaves formerly owned and liberated by 
the Nez Perce Indians. They permitted, as I have 
stated above, their slaves to reside and to intermarry 
in their families, and reasoning on the principles of na- 
tural justice, they concluded that it was not right to 
hold in slavery their own descendants, and liberated 
them, and they are now a respectable tribe. 

Gambling is also practiced among the lower Indians, 
IV 



250 INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY, 

and carried to perfection. After they have lost every 
thing they possess, they will put themselves at stake ; 
first a hand, and if unsuccessful, the other ; after this 
an arm, and in the same manner, piece by piece, until 
all is lost except the head, and at last their head ; and 
if they lose this, they go into perpetual slavery. If 
civilized men wilt gamble, it is desirable they should 
carry gaming to the same perfection, for then they 
would cease to be pests in society ; and however differ- 
ent may be our sentiments upon the subject of slavery, 
in this we should generally be agreed, that such slaves 
would not deserve much commiseration. The Indians 
however] do not set their souls at the hazard of the 
game, as civilized gamblers do, when they imprecate 
the eternal vengeance of God upon themselves, if they 
are not successful. The Indian gambles away his in- 
alienable rights for time only. 

It is an universal practice to indulge in smoking, but 
they do it in a dignified manner. They use but little 
tobacco, and with it they mix freely a plant which 
renders the fume less offensive. It is a social luxury, 
and for its enjoyment they form a circle, using only 
one pipe. The principal chief begins by drawing 
three whiffs, the first of which he sends upward, and 
then passes the pipe to the next person in dignity, and 
in like manner it passes arOund until it comes to the 
first chief again. He then draws four whiffs, the last 
of which he blows through his nose in two columns, in 
circling ascent, like a double-flued chimney. While 
thus employed, some topic of business is discussed, or 
some exploit in the chase, or some story of the battle- 
field, is related ; and the whole is conducted with gra^ 
vity. Their pipes are variously constructed, and of 
different materials. Some of them are wrought with 



INDIANS OF "THE LOWER COUNTRY. 251 

much labor and ingenuity of an argillaceous stone, of 
very fine texture, of a blue black color, found at the 
north of Queen Charlotte's Island. It is the same 
kind of stone, 'except in color, as that found upon the 
head waters of the Missouri, which is brick red. 
These stones, when first taken out of the quarries, are 
soft and easily worked with a knife, but on being ex- 
posed to the air, become hard, and are susceptible of 
a very good polish. 

The Indians in the lower country are more indolent 
than in the upper ; and the common motives for indus- 
try operate reversely from those in civilized communi- 
ties. The more they can get for their labor, the less 
they will do ; the more they can get for an article in 
sale, the less they will bring into market. Their wants 
are but few, and when these are supplied, they will do 
no more. They .have no disposition to hoard up trea- 
sures, nor any enlarged plans to execute, requiring ex- 
pense and labor. If they have any particular present 
want to supply, they will do what is sufficient to sa- 
tisfy it, and make no further effort until urged by a re- 
turning necessity. To make them industrious and 
provident, you must induce them to set a higher esti- 
mate upon the comforts of life, and show them that 
they are attainable, and that there is an increase of 
happiness growing out of industry ; and all this must 
be learned by experience, for abstract reasoning and 
theories are of no avail. An Indian may be taken 
abroad and instructed, and convinced of the advanta- 
ges of civilization, but if sent back to his country alone, 
he will become discouraged, and return to his former 
habits. Missionaries, and practical farmers, and arti- 
sans, must go among them, and make it the business 
of their lives to do them good, and identify their own 



252 INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRl*. 

interests with theirs. Charging them with indolence, 
and insensibility, and cruelty, will never make them 
wiser or better. He is the true philanthropist, who, 
instead of passing by on the other side*, goes to them, 
and does all in his s power to raise them from their de- 
gradation, and bring them to God and to heaven. 

The Indians of the lower country, although less 
anxious to be instructed in the things of religion, than 
those of the upper country, express a readiness to re- 
ceive instructors. I have not found among them, nor 
any Indians beyond the influence of frontier settle- 
ments, any thing like what has been stated to have ta- 
ken place in other sections of our country : that they 
will listen to statements made by missionaries, and 
give their assent to what is said as very good ; and 
then state their own theories of religion, expecting the 
same courteous assent in return. Neither have I seen 
any disposition manifested, to say that the Christian 
religion is good for white men, but as red men differ, 
they need a different religion and mode of life. They 
have not yet been instigated by infidels to say such 
things. They are conscious of their ignorance of God 
and salvation, and of the various arts and sciences. 
While an indifference and apathy characterize some, 
which is discouraging, yet I know of no insuperable 
obstacles to their improvement. 

"While gratitude is a general characteristic of In- 
dians, they have, in some cases, their peculiar way of 
expressing it. An Indian had a son laboring for a long 
time under a lingering and dangerous complaint. 
Their medicine men had done all they could for him, 
but without success. The father brought his son to 
the hospital at Fort Vancouver, and earnestly desired 
to have him treated with care and with the best med> 



INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 253 

cal attendance. The sick son was received, and in 
about six months was restored to health. When his 
father came to take him home, he remarked to Dr. 
McL. " My son is a good boy, he has been with you 
a long time, and I think you must love him ; and now 
as he is about to leave you, will you not give him a 
blanket and shirt, and as many other small things as 
you think will be good ? We shall always love you." 
The lower Indians " make their medicine," in some 
particulars, differently from those farther east. Their 
professed objects are to obtain present relief, if not a 
radical cure ; to make his exit more easy if the patient 
dies, and that his soul may be rendered capable of 
performing its journey to its far distant and happy 
country, and also to assuage the sorrow of surviving 
relatives. The process is simple, and occupies five or 
six hours. The patient is laid upon a bed of mats and 
blankets, sometimes a little elevated, and surrounded 
by a frame work. Two " medicine men " place them- 
selves upon this frame, and commence a chant in low, 
long-drawn tones, each holding a wand in his hand, 
three or four feet long, with which they beat upon the 
frame, keeping time with their tune. They gradually 
increase the loudness and the movement of their me- 
dicine song, with a correspondent use of their wand, 
until the noise becomes almost deafening, and undoubt- 
edly often hurries the patient out of the world. Du- 
ring this time the near relations affect indifference to 
the condition of the sick person, lest their anxiety 
should counteract the influence of the charm, and they 
are generally employed about their common business, 
the women in making mats, baskets and moccasons ; 
and the men loitering about, smoking, or conversing 
upon common subjects. In some cases, especially if 



254 INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 

their confidence in the medicine man is small, they 
manifest much affliction and concern ; and in all cases 
after the person dies, they make great lamentation. 

I have already mentioned the practice of the lower 
nations of flattening their heads and piercing their 
noses. But another reported custom, of having pieces 
of sea-horse's tusks, or oval pieces of wood, an inch 
and a half long and an inch wide, inserted into a 
hole in the upper lip, made for the purpose, is not cor- 
rect in regard to any of the Indians in this section of 
country. Captain Beechy mentions it as a common 
practice from Norton's Island and northward ; which 
was noticed by Deshnow, as long ago as 1648, that 
this ornament was worn by men and women about 
Prince William's sound, and which custom, Captain 
B. says is common the whole distance along the wes- 
tern shores of America, as far as California. I saw 
some specimen of this ornament, or rather deformity, 
which were worn by the natives at Millbank Sound. 

The wealth of the lower Indians is estimated by the 
number of their wives, slaves, and canoes. Every In- 
dian of any distinction takes as many wives as he is 
able to support, and his wealth is supposed to accord 
with the number. They are quite destitute of horses, 
and their almost only mode of travelling is in canoes ; 
for the forests are so dense that they are nearly im- 
penetrable, and they do not construct any roads. As 
the upper Indians excel in horsemanship, so these ex- 
cel in the management of canoes, which are uncom- 
monly well made, and of various sizes, from twelve to 
thirty feet long ; the largest will carry as much as a 
good bateau, and are generally made of the fir tree. 
The bow and stern are raised high, so as to meet and 
ward off* the boisterous waves, and the bow is some- 



INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 255 

times decorated with figures of animals, and the upper 
edge of the canoe is ornamented with shells. Slaves 
are employed in propelling the canoes, but not exclu- 
sively ; for often the chiefs will perform their part of 
the labor, and the women are equally expert with the 
men. 

Their manufactures do not widely differ from those 
of the upper country, with the addition of hats and 
baskets of skilful workmanship, made of grass of supe- 
rior quality, equal to the Leghorn. The native hats 
are a flaring cone. Their baskets are worked so 
closely as to hold water, and are often used for pails. 
Some of them are interwoven with various colors 
and devices, fancifully representing men, horses, and 
flowers. 

The government of the Indian nations is in the hands 
of chiefs, whose office is hereditary, or obtained by 
some special merit. Their only power is influence ; 
and this in proportion to their wisdom, benevolence, 
and courage. They do not exercise authority by com- 
mand, but influence by persuasion, stating what in 
their judgment they believe to be right, and for the 
greatest good of their tribe or nation, or of any family 
or community. The chiefs have no power of levying 
taxes, and they are so much in the habit of contributing 
their own property for individual or public good, that 
they are not generally wealthy. Their influence, how- 
ever, is great ; for they rarely express an opinion or 
desire, which is not readily assented to and followed. 
Any unreasonable dissent is subdued by the common 
voice of the people. Probably there is no government 
upon earth where there is so much personal and politi- 
cal freedom, and at the same time so little anarchy ; 
and I can unhesitatingly say, that I have nowhere wit- 



256 INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY. 

nessed so much subordination, peace, friendship, and 
confidence, as exist among the Indians in the Oregon 
Territory. The day may be rued, when their order 
and harmony shall be interrupted by any instrumen- 
tality whatever. 

There are exceptions, however, to the general fact 
of the good conduct of the chiefs, and the respect 
which is given them. Cazenove, the first chief of the 
Chenook nation, is one. He was a great warrior, and 
before the desolating sickness, which commenced in 
the year 1829, could bring a thousand warriors into 
action. He is a man of talents, and his personal ap- 
pearance is noble, and ought to represent a nature kind 
and generous ; but such is his character, that his influ- 
ence is retained among his people more by fear than 
by affection. I saw him often, and several times at my 
room, while at Fort Vancouver. On Tuesday, Feb- 
ruary 2d, I attended the funeral of his only son, the 
heir to his chieftainship, a young man who had lingered 
under a protracted disease. Cazenove departed from 
the long established custom of his nation and fathers, 
of depositing the dead in canoes, and had him buried 
in the cemetery of the Fort, in the decent manner of 
civilized people. He had the coffin made large, for 
the purpose of putting into it clothing, blankets, and 
such other articles as he supposed necessary for the 
comfort of his son in the world to which he was gone. 
Every thing connected with the ceremony of the in- 
terment was conducted with great propriety. I was 
not at the time furnished with an interpreter, but ad- 
dressed those present who understood English. Caze- 
nove expressed his satisfaction that an address was 
given, considering it a token of respect for his son ; 
and appeared solemn in his affliction, indulging tears 



INDIANS OF THE LOWER COUNTRY* 257 

only, and not any loud lamentations. Had he con- 
ducted with equal propriety subsequently, he would 
have been worthy of commendation. But when he 
returned to his dwelling that evening, he attempted to 
kill the mother of this deceased son, who was the 
daughter of Concomly, and formerly the wife of Mr. 
McDougall. The chiefs say, that they and their sons 
are too great to die of themselves, and although they 
may be sick, and decline, and die, as others do, yet 
some person, or some evil spirit, instigated by some 
one, is the invisible cause of their death ; and, there- 
fore, when a chief or chief's son dies, the supposed 
author of the deed must be killed. Cazenove, on this 
occasion, fixed on the mother of his son as the victim 
of his rage, notwithstanding she had been most assidu- 
ous in her attention to him, during his protracted sick- 
ness. Of his several wives she was the most beloved, 
and his misguided mind led him to believe that the 
greater the sacrifice, the greater the manifestation of 
his attachment to his son, and the more propitiatory to 
his departed spirit. She fled into the woods, and the 
next morning, when the gates were opened, came into 
this fort, and implored protection. She was secreted 
here several days, until her friends at Chenook Bay 
heard of her situation, and came and secretly took her 
away. Some days after this, a woman was found 
killed by the hand of violence, and it was supposed 
to have been done by Cazenove or some one in his 
employ. 



258 CONVERSATION WITH AN INDIAN, 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

Conversation with an intelligent Indian — meeting with Indians — earl y 
and mild seasons — La Dalles Indians — their anxiety to recei% T e the 
gospel — Nootka humming bird — number and location of the Indians 
in the lower country — Indians of the north — the agitated question — 
solitariness. 

A very intelligent and influential Indian from the 
Cascades called at my room, on the 8th of February, 
to enquire about God. I endeavored to obtain from 
him his own system of religion. He said he believed 
there is a God, and he supposed he made all things, but 
he did not know any thing more about him. I ques- 
tioned him in regard to his belief of a future state, and 
what he expected would become of him when he died. 
He said he did not know. He supposed that he should 
have an existence after death, but did not know what 
it would be ; and wished me to tell him. I endeavored 
to enlighten his mind, and to unfold to him the great 
fundamental truths of God and eternity, and the way 
to be saved. He listened with attention, and appeared 
sober. He told me the Indians were growing better ; 
that they did not kill each other in wars as in times past ; 
that they did not rob and steal as heretofore. I told 
him that was good, but to be saved they must repent 
and receive the Savior by faith, as the only hope for 
sinners. So benighted are the minds of these heathen, 
and so barren their language upon spiritual and invi- 
sible subjects, that I had to use such illustrations as 
I judged best adapted to convey truth to his mind, 
and I doubt not he received some knowledge. 






LA DALLES INDIANS. 259 



The next day he called again, and wished me to 
take his children and teach them how to read and 
write, and to worship God. I endeavored to explain 
to him the object of my tour, and that when I returned, 
I would use my influence to have others come and live 
among them. But he wanted me to continue with 
them and instruct them. And when I told him - 1 must 
go, and endeavor to get several to come and teach in 
different tribes, he wished to know how many sleeps it 
would take me to go, and how many sleeps before others 
would come. I told him it would be a great number. 
He wished to know if it would be moons. I answered 
in the affirmative, and told him it would be at least 
two snows. He paused and looked sorrowful. His 
very look affected me ; he arose and went out. 

Sabbath 14th. I attended service as usual in En- 
glish. There were many Indians from the La Dalles 
who wished to know if they might be present. We 
told them there would not be sufficient room in the 
hall, but a few of their chiefs might attend, and after 
the English service I would meet with them ; which I 
accordingly did in the afternoon. 

They were punctual at the hour, and came in single 
file, the first chief leading the way. When I prayed 
with them, they all kneeled down except two or three, 
and these were reprimanded by the chief for impro- 
priety of conduct. As on other similar occasions, I 
endeavored to instruct them in the first principles of 
our revealed religion, to which they gave strict atten- 
tion. The first chief, at the close of the service, wished 
to speak ; and on receiving permission, spoke a short 
time to his people, and then told me he had prayed 
much to the Great Spirit, and found his heart was no 
better, but worse. He said, a white man gave them 



260 EARLY SPRING. 

a flag, and told them to set it up on a pole, on Sun- 
days, and meet and pray, sing their songs, and dance 
around the pole bearing the flag ; and they had done 
so a long time. He wished to know if this was right.* 
I told him it was right to meet and pray, and sing, and 
talk about God, but to dance on the Sabbath was very 
wrong,- and would offend God. I added farther, that 
they needed some person to teach them the right way 
to worship God and to be saved. He was affected, 
and kneeled down, and with tears in his eyes said, if 
you must go away, do send us some one to teach us 
the right way to serve God. We will now throw 
away what the man said to us about dancing. We 
will go to our people and tell them what you have 
said, and worship God as you have taught us. I never 
felt so much like weeping over the heathen, as on this 
occasion ; to see this poor benighted Indian chief upon 
his knees, with tears in his eyes, pleading for some one 
to come and teach them the way to heaven. What a 
spectacle ! 

March 1st. We have many indications of the pre- 
sence of spring. The mildness of the climate, and the 
soft temperature of the season west of the mountains, 
render it one of the most delightful portions of our 
continent. The wide and sudden extremes of heat 
and cold, to which the eastern portions are subject, are 
almost unknown here, and while this is more agreeable, 
it is also more favorable to health. Those who have 
the charge of the farming establishment at this place, 



* The reason assigned for including dancing in the services of the 
holy Sabbath, was the fear, that singing and praying without dancing, 
would not interest the Indians ; and to include it, would not be so great 
a departure from their common practices, as to excite aversion to wor 
ship. 



MtLD CLIMATE. 261 

have commenced sowing thus early their spring crops, 
and the gardener is preparing his ground for the seeds. 
The grass in the yard begins to assume its beautiful, 
fresh green. The robin and blackbird have continued 
here through the winter, and now, with some others of 
their feathered brethren, resume their cheerful war- 
blings in the fields and groves. During the winter, the 
thermometer has not fallen below 22° Fahrenheit, and 
to this point only three days. At this date, it stood at 
sunrise, at 37° ; at noon, 46° ; and at sunset, at 44°. 
The rains through the winter have been less constant 
and heavy than I anticipated ; and snow has fallen 
only ten days, sometimes in trifling quantities, and at 
no time over the depth of six inches, and has remained 
on the ground only a few days. Some have supposed, 
that the genial climate of the Oregon Territory is attri- 
butable to the proximity of the great Pacific, shedding 
the influence of its soft winds far into the interior. 
But the fact is, that almost the only winds through the 
winter are easterly winds, consequently coming di- 
rectly from the regions of perpetual snow. 

A number of the La Dalles Indians arrived to-day, 
who reside eighty miles distant. One of their chiefs 
stated to my friend Mr. T. that they had changed their 
mode of worship ; that they do not now dance on the 
Sabbath, as they used to do, but they meet and sing, and 
pray ; and that since they have been better acquainted 
with the way to worship God, He hears their prayers, 
and that now, when they and their wives and children 
are hungry, they pray for deer, and go out to hunt 
and God sends them deer to satisfy their wants. Mr. 
T. asked him who had taught them their new mode 
of worshiping God. He answered, by the use of 
signs, the man who wore glasses ; a signal by which 



262 THE LA DALLES INDIANS. 

they distinguished me. It was interesting to know 
that they were disposed to practice, as well as to listen 
to what is taught them. 

Sabbath, 13th. Besides the usual service in the hall 
in English, I met the Indians from the La Dalles, and 
endeavored to exhibit to them the great truths of the 
Bible. They listened with deep interest to what I said, 
and then enquired whether they might expect, after I 
should go away, that some one would come and teach 
them. I could not promise, but replied that I hoped it 
would not be more than two snows, before some one 
would be sent. They enquired if after one or two 
sleeps,' I would let them come to my room and hear 
more about God. I agreed to meet them on Tuesday 
afternoon, and addressed them several succeeding times 
before their departure. 

It seems apparent to any observing Christian, that 
the present is the favorable time for the introduction 
of the gospel and civilization among the natives of this 
wide interior. Soon the cupidity and avarice of men 
will make aggressions here, and the deadly influence 
of frontier vices will interpose a barrier to the religion 
which they now are so anxious to embrace and prac- 
tice. Every circumstance combines to point out the 
time when this work should begin, and one of the most 
important is that these Indians are enlisted in fa- 
vor of white men, and feel that their condition, in all re- 
spects, for this world, as well as the coming one, is better 
than their own. A well-established Christian influ- 
ence among these tribes, would surely be respected 
by those who otherwise would invade their rights, 
and deprive them of a home as dear to them as our 
own is to us. 

March 24th. The season is progressing in delight- 



. 



THE NOOTKA. HUMMING BIRD. 263 

ful mildness. Flowering shrubbery and plants are 
beginning to send forth their fragrance ; and the 
Nootka humming bird has arrived, and is seen darting 
from bush to bush, feeding upon the open flowers. 
This most splendid species is not known east of the 
mountains. The whole of the upper part of the body 
is rufous, the head greenish, the throat cupreous and 
metalloidal crimson, varying according to the inci- 
dence of light. The throat of this species resembles 
that of the common, except that it is even more gor- 
geous in its colors, and in presenting the metallic 
feathers, forms a broad ruff in the inferior part of the 
neck, instead of being wholly a component part of the 
plumage. The swallows made their appearance on 
the 12th, and a new species of blue bird, of uncom- 
monly beautiful plumage, arrived on the 14th. The 
swan, several species of geese, and the sand hill crane, 
are passing to the north for incubation. Their scream- 
ing notes are constantly heard, and in the night are 
not the most favorable to repose. 

Before leaving the lower country, it will be proper 
to present, in a connected view, the best information I 
have been able to obtain of the several nations, their 
locations, and numbers. There are several tribes, 
about whom my knowledge is too limited to make any 
definite statements. Among them are those about Pu- 
get's Sound, and the upper part of the Cowalitz ; also 
the Chiltz Indians, north of the mouth of the Columbia 
and Chealis rivers. And although I have seen many 
of the Klicatat nation, who reside at the north of the 
Cascades, yet I have not been able to learn of them 
any thing more definite, than that they are a large na- 
tion. The Chenook nation resides along upon the Co- 
lumbia river, from the Cascades to its confluence with 



264 THE INDIAN NATIONS. 

the ocean, and though once numerous and powerful, 
now numbers not more than fifteen hundred, or two 
thousand.* 

The Calapooah nation are located south of the Che- 
nooks, upon the Willamette river and its branches. 
They are divided into seventeen different tribes, under 
their respective chiefs, and number about eight thou- 
sand seven hundred and eighty persons, who speak 
the same language, radically, with only a little differ- 
ence in dialect. They are scattered over a territory 
of two hundred miles north and south, and sixty east 
and west. Their country is uncommonly good. 

South of the Calapooah is the Umbaqua nation, re- 
siding in a valley of the same name. They are di- 
vided into six tribes ; the Sconta, Chalula, Palakahu, 
Quattamya, and Chasta. Their number is about 
seven thousand. South of this nation and north of 
California, there was a very powerful nation called the 
Kincla, which before the year 1829, numbered four 
thousand warriors. But if they have been swept 
away by sickness, as the other nations of the lower 
country have, it is probable their whole number of 
men, women and children, would not now amount to 
more than eight thousand. 

Near the mouth of the Columbia, along the coast, 
are the Killamooks, who are numerous, but their num- 
bers I could not ascertain. South of these, and at the 
mouth of the Umbaqua river, there are the Saliutla, 
and two other tribes, supposed to number 2000 per- 
sons. 

*My method of computing the number of persons in a nation, was to 
ascertain the number of their lodges, which usually contain but one 
family, and allowing five persons to constitute a family, which is a mode- 
rate estimate, the number of the nation is obtained ; so that, by this 
method of computation, the following estimate of Indians in and about 
the Oregon Territory, is not over-rated, but below the real number. 



THE LOWER COUNTRY. 265 

This estimate of the Indians, in the lower country, 
makes the number of those known to be about twenty- 
five thousand. This is probably a low estimate. It 
may safely be concluded, from facts now collected, 
that there are, between the 42° and 47° north lati- 
tude, in what we term the lower country, as many 
as twenty-five thousand more, making fifty thousand, 
who probably at the present moment would gladly re- 
ceive teachers. 

Gentlemen of the Hudson Bay Company gave the 
following statements of the numbers of Indians north of 
Puget's Sound ; viz. at Millbank Sound, three tribes, 
numbering two thousand one hundred and eighty-six. 
At Hygana Harbor, five tribes or bands, amounting to 
two thousand ninety-two. At Queen Charlotte's Isl- 
and, eleven tribes, numbering eight thousand six hun- 
dred persons. About Hanaga and Chatham Straits, 
there are nine tribes, containing six thousand one hun- 
dred and sixty persons. Making the whole number of 
inhabitants, at and about these places, between the 47° 
and 55° of north latitude, nineteen thousand thirty- 
eight. At Queen Charlotte's Island there is a field of 
much promise for a missionary station, where the ne- 
cessaries of life could be easily obtained, and for that 
high northern latitude, the climate is very mild. 

Their summer and winter residences are built of split 
plank, similar to those of the Chenooks. It is said they 
are well supplied with fish, fowl, oil, berries, and po- 
tatoes of superior quality and in great abundance ; 
and wild meat is sometimes obtained. Their dress is 
much the same as what has already been described. 
Polygamy prevails, and also slavery. They do not 
treat their slaves with as much kindness as the Indians 
in the lower country of the Oregon Territory treat 
12 



266 DUELLING. 

theirs. When they kill their slaves, the loss of pro- 
perty is the only thing they regard. Sometimes when 
one chief becomes offended with another, instead of 
challenging him to a duel, he goes home and kills a 
number of slaves, and challenges the other to kill as 
many. The challenged person, if he can, kills as many 
or more, and notifies the challenger of the number ; 
and thus they proceed until one or the other gains the 
victory ; and the one who yields in this mode of com- 
bat ceases to be a gentleman. " The point of honor" 
with these barbarous gentry is fixed higher than in 
our Christian country, for here the life of one satisfies 
the powerful principle, but there, blood must flow pro- 
fusely to quench the noble fire of high-minded re- 
venge. They are not unfrequently engaged in wars, 
which are often very bloody. They are much ad- 
dicted to gambling, and dancing ; and it is said they 
excel in singing. The country is mountainous, and is 
generally covered with dense forests, consisting mostly 
of fir. 

On and about McKenzie river there are six tribes 
of Indians, making a population of about four thousand 
two hundred and seventy-five. The climate is very 
cold and unpleasant ; but uninviting as it is, the Hud- 
son Bay Company have found men who are willing to 
reside there in sufficient numbers to make six establish- 
ments, for the purpose of obtaining the peltries which 
the Indians collect. Their principal establishment, 
which is Fort Simpson, is on the upper part of the 
river and is a place of much resort for the Indians. 



March 26th. Rode down once more to the lower 
plains, as they are called, and was delighted with the 
freshness of the wheat fields, which are beginning to 



THE AGITATED QUESTION. 267 

wave in the gentle breezes, and the forest trees are 
beginning to show their leaves, and the plants their 
flowers. The sea fowl, which through the winter 
covered these fields, are gone to their summer resi- 
dences, and the little feathered tribes are tuning their 
notes, so full of melody. 

The question, to whom does this country belong, has 
been, and is becoming still more a question of general 
interest, both in Great Britain and the United States. 
The aboriginal population claim it as their own, and 
say, they merely permit white men to reside among 
them. Before the first discovery of the noble river, 
which in itself and its branches waters almost the whole 
territory, these natives had undisputed possession. But 
their claim is laboriously, extensively, and practically 
denied ; for authorities, both of written law, and the 
opinion of living judges and expositors of law, sanction 
the principle that " unsettled habitation is not true and 
legal possession, and that nations who inhabit fertile 
countries and disdain or refuse* to cultivate them, de- 
serve to be extirpated." It is made, then, a question 
of inquiry, whose claim to this region is best esta- 
blished ? Our government claim exclusive dominion 
against any foreign power, of all the country lying be- 
tween the 42nd and 49th degrees of north latitude, by 
treaties with nations who claim possessions contigu- 
ous, and who have relinquished their claims to the 
country included in the above parallels of latitude, ex- 
cept Great Britain ; by the discovery of the principal 
river by Capt. Gray of the ship Columbia, the 14th of 



*The Indians do not disdain nor refuse to cultivate their lands. Their 
game is becoming so scarce, that they see they must cultivate their 
lands, or perish ; and they are anxious to be taught how, and to obtain 
the means. 



268 THE QUESTION. 

May, 1792 ; and by interior exploration. Great Bri- 
tain claims the Columbia river for her southern boun- 
dary, by right of discovery. Capt. Broughton, of the 
ship Chatham, having ascended the river with two 
boats, as far as where Fort Vancouver is now situated, 
took possession of the river and country in the name 
of his Britannic Majesty, on the 31st of October, 1792. 
Capt. Broughton was associated with Capt. Vancou- 
ver of the ship Discovery, on a voyage of discovery in 
the north Pacific, and around the world. The posses- 
sion was taken in his Britannic Majesty's name in due 
form. A friendly old chief, who did not understand a 
word of their language, nor they a word of his, was 
invited to join in the ceremony, and to drink his Ma- 
jesty's health. Captain Broughton says the chief ap- 
peared much pleased with the transaction. But it may 
be a subject of enquiry, with which the old friendly 
chief was best pleased, with the rum he drank on the 
occasion, or with the ceremony which was so full of 
import. And farther, did the chief, by partaking of 
his Majesty's rum and joining in the ceremony, cede 
all this country to be the bona fide property of a fo- 
reign nation ? Still Great Britain " does not set up any 
claim of exclusive jurisdiction or sovereignty therein, 
and denies the claim of the United States to any such 
sovereign jurisdiction," but by treaty claims for its 
subjects the right of joint occupancy, indefinitely de- 
ferring the settlement of the question of exclusive do- 
minion. But these intricate questions, so often asked, 
I leave to learned diplomatists to decide, after confes- 
sing that I am not able to discover why the nations 
who have from time immemorial, occupied this coun- 
try, and who like other nations, have their territorial 
limits tolerably well defined among themselves, should 



REFLECTIONS. 269 

not still possess the domain which our common Crea- 
tor and Benefactor has kindly given them. It is a sub- 
ject of increasing regret to every true friend of hu- 
manity, that, unless the rapacious and acquisitive spirit, 
which urges our nation to appropriate these western 
territories, shall be restrained by the providence of 
God, these Indian nations will be compelled to yield 
their lands, their rights, and their lives to the merciless 
invaders of their country. Is there such rectitude in 
power, and such virtue in civilization, as to prove that 
the bounties of divine providence were never designed 
to be permanently possessed by the defenceless and 
untaught, and that they are inevitably doomed to ex- 
tinction by the hands of enlightened and powerful 
men? The history of the past, and the operation of 
present causes, show that as soon as the Indians shall 
be induced to sell and cede the best portions of their 
country, there being no farther west to which they can 
be removed, the Indian race must expire, and in vain 
will the voice of humanity enquire, what has become 
of the aborigines of this country. 

The time has arrived when I expect to resume the 
work of further exploration. ' The weeks and months 
which I have spent here have fled rapidly away, while 
I have been feebly endeavoring during the winter to 
benefit the people of the fort, and the Indians ; and to 
embrace all the opportunities that should present, to 
collect information in those particulars which pertain 
to the direct object of my tour. I shall wander for a 
length of time, yet future, among the wild scenes of na- 
ture, which have so gratified and delighted me in tra- 
versing the wilderness of forest and prairie ; but my 
heart looks back to a variety of interesting scenes of 
civilized life and cultivated society in my own far 



270 LIBERALITY. 

distant land, and I ardently desire to see the wide re- 
gion before me brought under the same beauty and 
cultivation. All the social affections of our nature 
strongly desire the happiness, which refined and Chris- 
tian society and its concomitant blessings can alone 
give. A feeling of solitariness, and of desolation comes 
over the mind as you stand on the banks of the noble 
Columbia, and perhaps for weeks, it may be for months, 
no whitened sail becomes visible to the gaze of your 
watching eye. At length a ship enters its waters, and 
the Indians hasten fifty miles to tell you that the white 
man's great canoe, with its three upright sticks, is on its 
way to bring a new supply of blankets, beads, and to- 
bacco. The most unimportant incidents become inte- 
resting events, where so much monotony exists. 

Monday, 11th April. Having made arrangements 
to leave this place on the 14th, I called upon the chief 
clerk for my bill. He said the Company felt a plea- 
sure in gratuitously conferring all they have done, for 
the benefit of the object in which I am engaged. In 
justice to my own feelings, and in gratitude to the ho- 
norable Company, I would bear testimony to their uni- 
form politeness and generosity ; and while I do this, I 
would express my anxiety for their salvation, and that 
they may be rewarded in spiritual blessings. In addi- 
tion to the civilities I had received as a guest, I had 
drawn upon their store for clothing, for goods to pay 
my Indians, whom I had employed to convey me in 
canoes in my various journeyings, hundreds of miles ; 
to pay my guides and interpreters ; and upon their pro- 
vision store for the support of these men while in my 
employ. 



DEPARTURE FOR THE UPPER COUNTRY. 271 



CHAPTER XIX. 

Departure for the upper country — American hunters — geology at the 
Cascades — Indian honesty— escape in a dangerous gale*— the Falls a 
favorable location for a missionary station— tender sympathy — fa," 
mished Indians — arrival at Walla Walla — interesting meeting of In- 
dians — opportunity to give them religious instruction — a walk — the 
nutritious quality of prairie grass. 

April 14th. Having exchanged farewells with the 
gentlemen of the fort, whose kindness I shall ever re- 
member, I took passage in a canoe of an Indian chief 
belonging to the La Dalles. Our company consisted 
of the chief and his daughter, another Indian who took 
the bow, a half-blood named Baptiste who took the 
stern, and two white men, who, with the chief, helped 
to propel the canoe, making seven persons. These, 
with the baggage of several hundred weight, loaded 
the frail craft so heavily, that its sides were only about 
seven inches above water. This, upon a river ave- 
raging about a mile in width, with many rapids, and 
subject to winds, was not a pleasant undertaking. But 
at this season of the year, when the Indians are about 
to commence fishing, another canoe could not be ob- 
tained. 

We proceeded up the river about twelve miles, to 
what are called the upper plains on the north side of 
the river, and encamped. This is a rich and beautiful 
prairie of some miles in circumference, and at this 
early part of the spring was covered with a coat of 
fresh green grass five or six inches high. A little back 
from the river, there is a beautiful lake, the resort of 



272 THE CASCADES. 

water fowl, which are seen exhibiting their unsullied 
plumage ; and in the rear are forests of fir, whither 
the deer, which crop the grass of the prairie, flee, when 
they see men ascend the river's bank. A gathering 
storm rendered the night dark, cold, and dreary ; for 
as yet no friendly habitations are reared upon these 
fertile fields for the resort and comfort of man. 

The rain continuing with some wind, we did not 
decamp on the morning of the 15th, until a late hour ; 
after which we passed up into the mountainous part of 
the country below the Cascades, and encamped near 
the high Pillar rock which I have mentioned. Soon 
after leaving our encampment this morning, we met 
Captain W. with a small company of men in two ca- 
noes lashed together, on their way to Fort William 
upon Wappatoo Island. They were wet with the rain 
of the morning ; and their meagre countenances and 
tattered garments did not speak much in favor of the 
happiness of mountain life, or indicate that they had 
found the hunter's elysium. But they were in good 
spirits and passed merrily on their way. 

The basaltic rocks which wall up the shores, in some 
places two and three hundred feet perpendicular, and 
in this place for miles, do not lose in interest by re- 
view. For more than half a mile the columnar basalt 
presented the regular pentagons. Near these, where 
the shore was inaccessible, we found a deer almost ex- 
hausted with swimming in the cold water. Its help- 
less condition and its mild, large black eye, excited by 
fear, pleaded for the exercise of humanity ; but our 
men, instead of rendering it that assistance which it 
needed, shot it, and stained the pure water of the river 
with its blood. I could not help feeling a sympathy 
for this poor, beautiful animal. 



INDIAN HONESTY. 273 

While the men, on the morning of the 16th, were 
engaged in taking the canoe up the rapids and the 
Cascades, I walked five miles, sometimes along the 
shore of the river, and sometimes climbing over pre- 
cipices ; and so laborious was the task to get the ca- 
noe above all the rapids and falls, that it occupied most 
of the day, giving me time for examining the scenery 
around. Almost every variety of volcanic production 
was seen, but basalt and amygdaloid predominated. 
Large quantities of petrified wood were scattered 
along the shores, some of which preserved its natural 
appearance ; but the large blocks, when broken, pre- 
sented the appearance of mineral coal. The scenery 
around is grand ; yet such was the misty state of the 
atmosphere about the tops* of the mountains, which 
were at this time covered with snow, and the dullness 
accompanying, that the enjoyment was less than it 
would have been under other circumstances. After 
having finished the portage by the Cascades, we 
launched out upon the gentle current above, and pro- 
ceeding up the river two miles, encamped upon the 
north side. Several Indians came to our encampment 
and manifested a kind and sociable disposition. They 
told us that Captain W. the day before, in cordelling 
his canoes down the Cascades, had lost one, and with 
it baggage, of which they had found some articles, 
which they would deliver to him when he should again 
pass this way. The Indians are coming in from their 
winter retreats, and are engaged in catching sturgeon. 

The 17th being the Sabbath, we did not remove. 
It was a rainy day, and in the forenoon the rain came 
down in torrents, which is common about these moun- 
tains through the rainy season of the year. We were 

12* 



274 DANGEROUS GALE. 

not able to make a fire for preparing food, until after 
twelve o'clock, when the storm began to abate. 

On Monday the weather was more pleasant, and 
we made very good progress up the river, through a 
country of diversified scenery. Though less mountain- 
ous than about the Cascades, yet here were mountains 
of interesting forms ; one was almost a perfect cone, 
a thousand feet high, rising at an angle of 45 degrees, 
beautifully smooth and covered with grass. We 
passed, a few miles above this, a bluff presenting a 
perpendicular semicircle, with fissures regularly radi- 
ating from the centre of the diameter. In different 
places there were red hills of the color of well-burnt 
brick. We encamped on the north side of the river, 
upon a pleasant spot just above a small Indian village, 
where we found a good supply of dry wood, which 
added to our comfort and convenience. 

A wind which blew very fresh through the night, 
abated on the morning of the 19th, and we proceeded 
on our way with a gentle breeze, before which we 
spread a sail made of a blanket. The wind continued 
to increase until the middle of the day, which rendered 
navigation rather dangerous. We came to a large 
bend in the river, and to save the distance of coasting 
around, the men who rowed wished to pass over to 
the south side of the river, which was here more than 
a mile wide. This seemed a dangerous experiment, 
because the wind and waves were too high for our 
deep-laden canoe ; but as they were anxious to save 
labor, I did not persist in my objections. We had not 
passed more than half way across, before the increa- 
sing wind raised waves which rolled and broke three 
times as high as our canoe, and threatened to over- 
whelm us. At length the men were not able to keep 



EXTRAORDINARY ESCAPE. 275 

the canoe headed across the waves, and it turned side- 
ways to them. It seemed that nothing short of a mi- 
raculous providence could save us. But by much ex- 
ertion and some abatement of the wind, we again got 
the canoe upon our course, and obliquely across the 
waves, and safely arrived at the south shore. But our 
greatest danger was yet before us. After coasting a 
few miles along the south shore, we came to a pro- 
montory called Cape Horn, a name given it on account 
of the dangers of passing. It is of volcanic formation, 
rising, as I afterwards found by measurement, two 
hundred feet perpendicular upon the water's edge, 
extending about a mile in length, and the lower part 
projecting several hundred feet into the river. The 
wind had so far lulled, that we did not apprehend any 
danger in passing it, but when we had doubled the 
Cape, the wind drew around and increased to a gale. 
The foaming, breaking waves ran high, and we could 
not return against the wind, and to go forward against 
the current was to add to the danger of being filled, 
or dashed against shoreless rocks. Such was the force 
of the wind, and such the efforts of the men to keep 
the canoe across the waves and away from the rocks, 
that in the same instant of time, the bowman and 
steersman both broke their paddles, and the sail was 
torn away from the left fastening, and whirled over to 
the right side of the canoe. It seemed that all hope 
was gone. There were only three paddles remaining, 
two of which were immediately put into the hands of 
the steersman and bowman. It was impossible to re- 
turn, and to make progress against the current with 
only such means, appeared equally impracticable. A 
watery grave seemed inevitable ; but by the pro- 
tecting mercy of God, when the waves broke, it was 



276 LA DALLES. 

just without the canoe. It was necessary to our safety 
to be collected and fearless, and we cleared the sail, 
and gave orders as though no danger was near. Con- 
trary to our highest expectations, we continued to 
make headway up the river, assisted probably by one 
of those large eddies, which abound in this river, until 
we came to a small bay with a sandy shore, where we 
safely moored our frail barque, and waited until the 
winds and weather became more favorable. 

After the winds had somewhat abated, Indians came 
to us from the opposite shore, of whom we bought pad- 
dles, and being again equipped for our voyage, we 
proceeded up the river to the La Dalles, and as far 
through them as we could safely go. Here we landed 
and encamped on the north shore, and a number of In- 
dians soon came to us, whom we engaged to carry us 
with horses, to the navigable waters above the Falls. 
Near this was a very large eddy, where, two years pre- 
viously, nine men were drowned. Their bateau was 
drawn into it and capsized, and only one man escaped, 
which he effected by clinging to a bag containing some 
empty kegs. He was carried a few miles down the 
river, and then taken up by Indians who were passing 
in a canoe. 

The 20th was occupied in passing the La Dalles 
and the Falls, above which we encamped. This place 
affords a favorable location for missionaries. The In- 
dians resort here in large numbers for fishing, and re- 
main usually through the summer, and some of them 
through the year. An intercourse would be always 
open with surrounding tribes, and facilities would be 
at hand both to disseminate the truths of the gospel, 
and to obtain the means of comfortable subsistence. 

As soon as we were encamped, the Indians, who are 



CALL AT AN INDIAN LODGE. 277 

here in great numbers preparing for fishing, came 
around us and their first enquiry was for pi pi, (to- 
bacco.) I am much disgusted with this noxious plant, 
and am resolved no longer to consider it necessary to 
conciliate the Indians by smoking the friendly pipe. If 
an Indian is suffering with hunger and nakedness, his 
first request is for tobacco. As we had parted with 
the Indians who came with us from Fort Vancouver, 
we here engaged two others to assist us as far as 
Walla Walla. 

On the 21st, we took a bateau which we found here, 
and progressed slowly up the river against the current 
and frequent rapids. On the morning of the 22d, while 
encamped, and the men were making preparation for 
breakfast, I rambled into a little village in the neigh- 
borhood, and called at a lodge, whose inmates consisted 
of an aged woman, a younger one, and four little girls. 
I addressed them in the Chenook language, but they 
did not understand me. Being tolerably familiar with 
the language of signs, I enquired whose were those 
children. The younger woman signified that three of 
them were hers, but the eldest was an orphan, whom 
she had adopted for her own ; and in the most pathetic 
manner she proceeded to relate her history, but little 
of which was intelligible. The aged matron sitting on 
the ground of her movable lodge, with her head re- 
clining upon her hand, occasionally introduced a few 
sentences to aid the narration ; and so sad and affect- 
ing was the whole accent and sound of their voices, 
that I freely sympathized with them, and nodded my 
assent to all they said. I regretted the necessity which 
compelled me to leave them without being able to 
point them to Him, who is touched with the feelings of 
our infirmities, and who binds up the broken in heart. 



278 FAMISHED INDIANS. 

I thought, as I walked slowly back to my breakfast, 
how little of the savage character was exhibited by 
these females, and on the contrary, how these amiable 
sensibilities would have done honor to any civilized 
society. 

Our encampment on the 24th, was on the south side 
of the river, at a place of great resort for the Indians, 
but they had not come in from their winter retreat. 
There were many canoes drawn up at a short distance 
from the shore, and left without any apprehensions of 
their being stolen, showing the confidence the Indians 
have in each others honesty. They do not need 
guards, nor bolts and bars, and prisons. 

To secure ourselves from a strong, cold wind, we 
selected a place densely covered with wild broom corn 
of last year's growth yet standing, and in the rear of 
willows which here skirted the shore of the river. 
Two Indians came to our encampment, who were as 
miserable objects as I have seen. They were not 
more than half covered with tattered skins of rabbits 
patched together ; and were emaciated with starva- 
tion. To relieve the sufferings of such objects of pity, 
the traveler needs to carry with him a store of cloth- 
ing and provisions. It is distressing to see them, with- 
out having the means of furnishing them substantial 
relief. 

On the 25th, we made slow progress against the 
strong current with our poorly manned bateau, and 
failing of arriving at Walla Walla, as we had hoped, 
encamped under the high basaltic rocks, where we 
found a small spot of soil furnishing some wood. The 
next morning we arrived at the fort, where I met at the 
landing a number of Nez Perce Indians waiting my 
arrival. I felt much satisfaction in seeing them, and in 



FULFILMENT OF PROMISE. 279 

witnessing their tokens of affection. It was like meet- 
ing old friends ; and there appeared to be so much un- 
feigned pleasure in the reception they gave me, that it 
inspired the hope, that the disposition they express to 
learn the way of salvation is based on a foundation 
more permanent than novelty. I had told a band of 
the Cayuse Indians, on my way down the river last 
October, that I would meet them here in the spring, 
and inform them about God and the way to worship 
him. Many of them were here, ready to attend to the 
fulfilment of my promise, and undoubtedly my arrival 
at the appointed time, confirmed their confidence. 

As the season is yet early, I judged it expedient to 
continue here a week or two, and improve such oppor- 
tunities as might offer for instructing the Indians resi- 
ding near this place, and those who might come from 
more remote places; making the best use of such faci- 
lities as can be obtained, without waiting for the tho- 
rough knowledge of their language, which the prudence 
of some persons would consider indispensable to the 
commencement of teaching them the way of eternal 
life. Their anxious curiosity to know what the reli- 
gion of the Bible is, cannot be kept awake while its 
gratification is postponed. The danger that delay will 
result in indifference or disgust, is as great as that an 
early attempt to impart instructions may be connected 
with imperfections. 

During my continuance in this place, I preached on 
the Sabbath morning to the white people belonging to 
the fort, and in the afternoon to the Indians of the Cay- 
use, Walla Walla, and Nez Perce tribes. They al- 
ways gave good attention, and some appeared to be 
much interested. An instance of opposition to the 
truths of the gospel occurred here, proving the truth of 



280 A WALK GRAND SCENERY. 

the scriptures, that the Saviour is set for the fall and 
rising of those who hear. A chief of the Cayuses, who 
several times came to hear, disliked what was said 
about a plurality of wives. He said he would not part 
with any of his ; for he had always lived in sin and 
was going to the place of burning, and it was too late 
for him, now he was getting old, to repent and be 
saved ; and as he must go to that place, he would go 
in all his sins, and would not alter his life. Those who 
are familiar with the various methods to which sinners 
resort, to avoid the convictions of truth and conscience, 
may see in his deep hatred to holiness, that the opera- 
tion of sin is the same in every unsanctified heart. 
This is the only instance of open opposition, that I wit- 
nessed among the Indians ; nor does it characterize the 
Cayuse tribe. They very much resemble the Nez 
Perces in their peaceable disposition, and desire to be 
instructed, and present, in connection with the Walla 
Wallas, a promising field of missionary labor. 

May 3d. I walked down to the passage of the Co- 
lumbia through the basaltic mountain, two miles be- 
low the fort, to take a more particular view of the 
scenery than can be obtained in a hasty passage on the 
river. I ascended the mountain, from the top of which 
I had a fine prospect of the country around, opening in 
every direction as far as the eye could reach. All 
parts were covered with the fresh green of spring ve- 
getation. Very few forests were to be seen in any di- 
rection, excepting upon the Blue Mountains at the 
south, and these, instead of the fresh hues presented by 
forests at this season, were softened by the distance to 
a hazy blue. Even at this distance, the perpetual 
snows of Mount Hood, could be distinguished at the 
west ; and at the north-west Mount Rainier near Pu- 



PRAIRIE GRASS. 281 

get's Sound; and at the north and the east various 
parts of scattered mountains, yet covered with snows. 
After some time employed in looking around upon the 
vast expanse, I approached the perpendicular walls, 
between which the Columbia descends, which are 
about three hundred feet high, as I ascertained by the 
number of seconds occupied in the descent of large 
stones, projected from the brink of the precipice, which 
I distinctly heard when they struck upon the shore 
below. I found a great variety of scoria and lava, the 
latter varying much in color and density, some of it 
sufficiently porous and light to swim upon water. 
Two thirds of the way down this deep channel, are 
two high eminences called the Pillars, to which, by a 
circuitous route, I descended. They stand upon con- 
ical bases, eighty or a hundred feet high above the 
river ; and above these bases rise nearly a hundred 
feet perpendicular, they are indeed remarkable ; but 
there are so many singular formations in this volcanic 
country, that curiosities become common. I returned, 
though much fatigued with my long walk over prairies, 
precipices, and mountains, yet gratified with the ex- 
amination of the works of nature. 

My horses and mule, which I had left with the Nez 
Perce Indians, were kept in their country, one hun- 
dred and thirty miles east of this place, and were in 
April brought into this neighborhood. To-day, May 
5th, they were caught and brought to the fort. I was 
surprised to find them in fine order, with new coats, 
and in high spirits. They had run out on the prairies 
without any shelter from the storms, and with no food, 
except what the remains of the previous summer's 
growth afforded, together with the early grass of 
spring. Who would have supposed considering their 



282 HIGH WINDS 

worn down condition, when I left them in October, 
that with no other fare they would have fattened dur- 
ing the winter. This fact shows the superior mildness 
of the climate, and the nutritive quality of prairie grass, 
even after dried up with the summer drouth. Another 
evidence of the truth of this remark may be seen in the 
condition of the cattle kept at this fort. With nothing 
more to feed upon than what they find upon the prai- 
ries, they are now not only in good order, but some of 
them are actually fat, and in as good condition for mar- 
ket, as oxen driven from the stalls of New England. 

I rode to-day with Mr. Pambrun, ten miles up the 
river to the confluence of the Lewis, or as it is called, 
the Nez Perce river, with the Columbia. They are 
both noble streams ; the Columbia is nearly three- 
fourths of a mile, and the Nez Perce a half mile wide. 
The prospect around is delightful ; the soil is good, as 
is evidenced by the fresh verdure which is springing 
up luxuriantly, at this early season. A large band of 
horses belonging to a Walla Walla chief, are feeding 
here. It is a curious fact, that the Indian horses do 
not often stray from the place where they are left ; 
habit, however produced, is as good a safeguard as en- 
closures. Along upon the shores of the river, I found 
specimens of calcedony and cornelian. 

The sixth was a very warm day, the thermometer 
standing at noon, at 84°. Distant thunder was heard, 
which is an unfrequent occurrence west of the great 
mountains. Towards and through the night the wind 
blew very strongly, and shook the bastion which I oc- 
cupied, so that it seemed as if it would be prostrated 
to the earth ; but such wind in this particular section 
of country is common. 

During the time of my continuance here, I had 



WALLA WALLA INDIANS. 283 

more frequent opportunities to address the Indians, 
and in greater numbers, than I had anticipated. From 
the promise that the Word of God shall not return 
void, but shall accomplish that whereunto it is sent, 
may not the hope be indulged, that some good fruits 
will be the result of these labors. The Walla Walla 
tribe, though the descendents of emancipated slaves, 
are not inferior to other tribes, and are treated with 
the same respect. 



284 JOURNEY TO THE NEZ PERCE COUNTRY. 



CHAPTER XX. 

Journey to the Nez Perce country — funeral of a child — natural scenery 
— worship on the Sabbath — return to Walla Walla — industry of the 
Indians — battle ground — practice of smoking — journey to Colvile. 

May 9th. In company with several Nez Perce In- 
dians who had come down from their own country to 
escort me, I commenced my journey, and pursued the 
same route by which I came last autumn. Nothing 
eventful marked our way and we arrived at the Snake 
or Lewis river, the evening of the eleventh, where we 
found several lodges of the Nez Perces, who gave us 
a very cordial reception, and a warm-hearted shake 
of the hand, the common expression of Indian friend- 
ship. The night of our arrival a little girl about six 
or seven years of age, died, and on the morning of the 
twelfth they buried her. Every thing relating to the 
burial was conducted with great propriety. The 
grave was only about two feet deep ; for they have no 
spades, and a sharpened stick was used to loosen the 
earth, and this was removed with the hands ; and with 
their hands they filled up the grave after the body was 
deposited in it. A mat was laid in the grave, then the 
body wrapped in its blanket, with the child's drinking 
cup and spoon made of horn ; then a mat of rushes 
spread over the whole, and it was filled up, as above 
described. In this instance they had prepared a cross 
to set up at the grave, most probably having been told 
to do so by some Iroquois Indians, a few of whom I 
saw west of the mountains, not in the capacity of teach- 



NATURAL SCENERY. 285 

ers, but as trappers in the employ of the fur companies. 
One grave in the same village had a cross standing 
over it, which, together with this, were the only relics 
of the kind I saw during my travels in the country. 
But as I viewed a cross of wood of no avail, to benefit 
either the dead or the living, and far more likely to 
operate as a salvo to a guilty conscience, or a step- 
ping-stone to idolatry, than to be understood in its 
spiritual sense to refer to a crucifixion of our sins, I 
took this, which the Indians had prepared and broke it 
in pieces. I then told them that we place a stone at 
the head and foot of the grave, only to mark the place ; 
and without a murmur, they cheerfully acquiesced, 
and adopted our custom. 

As we proceded up the river to the confluence of 
the Coos-coots-ke, on account of the high water, we 
had to pass over the huge precipices of basalt, at the 
foot of which we traveled down last fall, and which I 
have mentioned. We were compelled often to ap- 
proach very near the brink, where it seemed as if we 
were almost suspended over the dizzy depth of three 
hundred feet. We arrived at the Coos-coots-ke early 
in the afternoon of the third day after leaving Walla 
Walla, making the distance about 120 miles. The 
whole country had put on the loveliness of spring, and 
divested itself of the dreariness of winter, and the gran- 
deur of the mountain scenery appeared to rise before 
me with new freshness and delight. The Indians are 
assembling in great numbers from different and dis- 
tant parts of the country, to enquire about the religion 
that is to guide them to God and heaven ; and which 
they also think has power to elevate them in the scale 
of society in this world, and place them on a level with 
intelligent as well as Christian white men. 



286 THE OPHTHALMY. 

On the north of the confluence of these two rivers, 
and down the Nez Perce river, the country is diversi- 
fied with hills and mountains of a great variety of forms, 
from five hundred to two thousand feet high. The 
volcanic and argillaceous strata are generally horizon- 
tal, but often thrown into various degrees of inclina- 
tion, from horizontal to perpendicular ; in other places 
curved or waving. They have all the regularity of 
works of art, raised up by human skill ; and why should 
not the power and skill of an Omnipotent hand be 
acknowledged in these stupendous works ? 

After having been several months where the Indians 
of the lower country came daily under my observa- 
tion, the contrast between them and these with whom 
I am now, is very noticeable. The former are more 
servile and abject, both in their manner and spirit ; 
while the latter are truly dignified and respectable in 
their manners and general appearance, far less enslaved 
to their appetites, or to those vices whose inevitable 
tendency is to degrade. They know enough to set 
some estimate upon character, and have much of the 
proud independence of freemen ; and are desirous of 
possessing a consequence in the estimation of other peo- 
ple, and for this reason, wish to be taught, and they re- 
ceive any instruction with remarkable docility. 

Saturday, May 14th. Very many of the natives are 
coming in for the purpose of keeping the Sabbath with 
me ; but as I have little prospect of the arrival of my 
interpreter, I shall probably be left to commiserate their 
anxiety, while it will be out of my power to do them 
good. 

I have frequent applications to prescribe for the 
ophthalmy, with which the people are much afflicted, 
and which I should think is a prevalent endemic. Calo- 



WORSHIP ON THE SABBATH. 287 

mel, applied in about the quantity of one grain to each 
eye, (Jffce in twenty-four hours, I found to be an effica- 
cious remedy. No injurious effects were known to 
have occurred from its use, and in most cases it was 
successful. 

The Nez Perces have been celebrated for their skill 
and bravery in war. This they have mentioned to 
me, but say they now are afraid to go to war ; for 
they no longer believe that all who fall in battle go to 
a happy country. They now believe that the only 
way to be happy here or hereafter, is by knowing and 
doing what God requires. They have learned enough 
to fear the consequences of dying unforgiven, but not 
sufficient to embrace the hopes and consolations of the 
gospel. I have been interested to see the reasonings 
of their minds, and the result of their reflections, amidst 
the dimness of so imperfect a knowledge as they yet 
possess. It demonstrates that they are not indifferent 
to what they hear, and that their minds are inquisitive, 
and capable of thought and investigation. They have 
obtained light sufficient, to show how great is the dark- 
ness in which they have been enveloped ; and it is to 
be hoped, that these efforts to enlighten them will be 
followed by those still more efficient, until that meri- 
dian day foretold in prophecy, shall fully come, and 
these heathen be given to the Savior with all the re- 
mote ends of the earth for a possession. 

Sabbath, 15th. The interpreter I had been expect- 
ing did not arrive, and consequently much of what I 
wished to say to these hundreds of Indians, could not 
be communicated for the want of a medium. I felt 
distressed for them. They desired to celebrate the 
Sabbath after a Christian manner. When the chiefs 
came and enquired what they should do, I told them to 



288 RETURN TO WALLA WALLA. 

collect the people into an assembly and spend the hours 
of this sacred day in prayer and singing, and 4» con- 
versation on those things about which I formerly in- 
structed them. They did so, and it was truly affect- 
ing to see their apparent reverence, order, and devo- 
tion, while I could not but know that their knowledge 
was limited indeed. The voice of their singing echoed 
from the hills and vales, and I could not but hope, that 
the time will not be greatly future, when they will sing 
with the spirit and with the understanding. As a proof 
that they have acquired some correct ideas of spiritual 
worship, in distinction from the employment of mere 
outward forms, Kentuc, the Indian who attended me 
so faithfully on my outward route, came to me, anxious 
to describe the different manner in which he regarded 
the worship of the two chiefs, Charlie and Teutacus. 
He said Charlie prayed with his lips, but Teutacus 
prayed with his heart. Confession of sin appears to 
occupy much of his prayers, and if there is one among 
this multitude, who, it may be hoped, has been ever- 
lastingly benefitted by the gospel, I believe it is this 
man. 

Monday, 16th. I had hitherto been somewhat un- 
decided what course to pursue in my future move- 
ments ; but came to the conclusion to proceed to the 
place of Rendezvous ; and join the returning caravan, 
provided I could go by the way of the Grand Round, 
and to the South-west of the Snake river, and explore 
a part of the country which I had not passed through 
the preceding autumn. But the Indians chose to take 
the retired route of the Salmon river mountains, to 
avoid danger from hostile Indians, as it was well as- 
certained that there was a party of Blackfeet warriors 
ranging the territory west of the great mountains. I 



INDIAN INDUSTRY. 289 

wished to explore the north-east branch of the Colum- 
bia, which runs through an important part of the 
country, and upon which, and its branches, many con- 
siderable tribes reside. 

To return by the way my company would travel, 
and by which I came, would be to leave the object of 
my tour only partially accomplished ; and after can- 
vassing the subject as deliberately as I could, I con- 
cluded to return to Walla Walla, procure guides and 
assistants, and go up the Columbia as far as Colvile, 
which is the highest post of the Hudson Bay Company, 
about seven hundred miles by the traveled route, from 
the Pacific Ocean. I informed the Indians of my de- 
termination, who, though they evidently preferred 
that I should accompany them, acquiesced in the deci- 
sion, and showed more kindness than I had expected. 
They readily appointed Haminilpilt, one of their young 
chiefs, to attend me on my return down the river. 
After writing several letters, to forward to the United 
States from Rendezvous, we turned our faces to our 
proposed destination, and at night arrived at the vil- 
lage on the Nez Perce river, where we had encamped 
on the eleventh. 

At this place I was peculiarly gratified to notice the 
industry of these people. Some were engaged in 
catching fish, and gave me some excellent salmon ; the 
women and children were early out on horseback to 
procure the cowish root, which they often manufac- 
ture into bread ; and when we left, only a few old 
persons and very young children remained in their 
village. Five or six miles from this village, up a 
small branch of this river, we passed a spot which, 
some few years ago, was a battle-field between the 
Nez Perces and some other nation, whose name I 
13 



290 PRACTICE OF SMOKING. 

could not with certainty ascertain, but probably it was 
the Bonax, Tuelca. The ground was judiciously chosen 
by the invading party, which was just back of a point 
of land coming down near the stream of water, leav- 
ing only a narrow pass, around which they opened a 
fire, while the Nez Perces, not expecting the approach 
of a foe were taken by surprise, and fifteen or twenty 
of their number were killed. The very spot where 
each individual fell is now designated by heaps of 
stones raised three and four feet high. 

The country over which we passed to-day, a dis- 
tance of forty miles, was uncommonly pleasant, diver- 
sified with hills and valleys and covered with its self- 
provided carpet of lovely green. Several Indians 
came on after us and traveled in company. Near 
night we encamped in a rich valley, through which a 
considerable stream of water runs to the north. Be- 
fore it was dark, a number more whom I recognized 
as former acquaintances, overtook us, apparently re- 
luctant to separate from our company. I conversed 
with them about the practice so universal among the 
men of using tobacco .for smoking, a very expensive 
indulgence for which they pay almost as much as for 
their whole list of comforts besides. In reply to my ar- 
guments to dissuade them from its use, they said " white 
men smoke." I admitted the truth, but told them that 
all white men are not wise in every thing they do ; 
that they have some practices which are not good. 
The Nez Perces call tobacco, smoke, and remarked, 
" we are better then than white men ; for they eat 
smoke" — meaning tobacco — "we do not eat smoke." 
This to be sure was an argument of much shrewdness, 
and wholly unanswerable. Such is their attachment 
to this stupefying vegetable, that to obtain it, they will 



RICH SOIL. 291 

part with the last article of food or clothing, or even 
take down the poles which uphold their dwellings, and 
sell them for fuel. I regarded it as a vice, from which 
they should be rescued if practicable. 

The 18th we continued our journey and rode forty- 
five miles over a more fertile tract than w r e passed yes- 
terday, and better supplied with wood. On the upper 
part of the Walla Walla river is a delightful situation 
for a missionary establishment, having many advan- 
tages not found for some distance around. It is not, 
however, so central for either the Nez Perces, Cayu- 
ses, or Walla Wallas, as would be desirable, yet a 
mission located on this fertile field would draw around 
an interesting settlement, who would cultivate the soil, 
and be instructed. How easily might the plough go 
through these valleys, and what rich and abundant 
harvests might be gathered by the hand of industry. 
But even now the spontaneous productions of these 
vast plains, including millions of acres, are so profuse, 
that not the fiftieth part become^ the food of organic 
life. In some places bands of Indian horses are seen ; 
the timid deer, the hare, the wary marmot, and the 
swift gazelle. But these, with other animals, consume 
so small a proportion, that these wide fields are com- 
paratively unoccupied. 

We experienced a long detention on the morning of 
the 19th, in consequence of our horses wandering into 
a ravine, to which retreat we could not easily trace 
them. They did not however, violate their rule of 
making our encampment, for the time being, their 
home. We rode twenty-two miles and arrived at 
Walla Walla. Most of the remainder of the week 
was occupied in necessary arrangements for my north- 
east tour, and in writing letters to friends. Mr. Pam- 



292 JOURNEY TO COLVILE. 

brun assisted in obtaining Indian guides, and desig- 
nated two French voyageurs to be my assistants ; one 
of whom could speak some English. I concluded to 
take horses, and go up through the Spokein country, 
leaving the great bend of the Columbia to the left 
some fifty or sixty miles, and on our return to take the 
river. This would give me a more extended observa- 
tion of the country, of the tribes who inhabit it, and of 
their condition in regard to prospects of establishing 
teachers among them. 

On Sabbath, the 22d, we had worship as usual, and 
the following day commenced the journey for Colvile. 
Our course was in an easterly direction forty miles, 
and at night we found a new place to lay our heads 
for rest, in a valley presenting all the appearance of 
the farmer's grass fields, ready for the mower's hand, 
and from which he expects to receive a future gain. 
But the natives not appreciating these sources of 
profit, neglect them altogether, and gather only a 
scanty living from a few esculent roots, which grow 
spontaneously in the waste. 



PALOOSE INDIANS. 293 



CHAPTER XXI. 

Paloose Indians — Pavilion river — extraordinary observation — lost on the 
prairie — Indian principle — Spokein woods and country — Indian ferry 
— Spokein valley — granite — volcanic curiosities— fertile valley — wor- 
ship with the Spokeius — Mill river valley — arrival at Fort Colvile — 
description of the place ; leave Culvile for Fort Okanagan — a moun- 
tain of marble — Grand Coule, or old bed. of the Columbia — Okanagan 
described — Long rapids — arrive at Walla Walla. 

The morning of the 24th, we took a more northerly 
course, and after travelling five hours over a some- 
what high but diversified country, descended into a 
fertile valley, through which flowed a small tributary 
of the Snake river. Here we found a village of Pa- 
loose Indians who are a band of the Nez Perces. We 
hired them to assist us in crossing the river, which 
here is a half mile wide, and has a rapid current. 
We had only a small canoe, which the strength of the 
current carried more than a half mile down the river 
before we could gain the opposite shore. Three times 
we had to encounter the stream, before every thing 
was safely over ; and the horses made a strong effort 
to swim to the opposite shore. This, together with 
refitting, employed several hours. We travelled up 
the Pavilion river, which comes from the high lands 
that divide the waters of this and the Spokein river. 
This river is walled up with basalt, generally high and 
perpendicular, in various windings and forms, for the 
distance of fifteen or twenty miles. In some places 
the walls are spread out so widely as to enclose large 



294 EXTRAORDINARY EXCAVATION. 

spaces of rich interval ; in other places so closing up- 
on the river as to leave only space sufficient for it to 
pass. The night was cold, the thermometer standing 
on the morning of the 25th, at 34°. 

May, 25th. We pursued our way over hills and 
valleys of an entire prairie, until we came to the south 
part of the Spokein country. Near the summit level 
which divides the waters of the Snake and Spokein 
rivers, there is an interesting excavation, walled within 
by basaltic rocks. The pillars are regular pentagons 
from two to four feet in diameter, in sections of various 
lengths, standing erect and closely joined, making a 
wall from fifty to one hundred feet high. The excavated 
enclosure, though not in a regular form, is yet nearly 
entire, containing fifty or more acres. On the outside 
of this wall, the earth is as high as the pillars, and gra- 
dually slopes off in hills and dales. By what agency 
was this excavation formed ? There is no appear- 
ance, as in many other places, of volcanic craters, un- 
less it is itself a crater, and there are no signs of the 
action of water. May it not have been a subsidence ? 
I passed through it leisurely, and surveyed with admi- 
ration these huge crystals, of dark materials truly, but 
showing not the less for that circumstance, that certain 
laws govern the mineral world as well as the animal 
or vegetable. 

We passed to-day several small villages of the Nez 
Perce and Spokein nations. They all manifested a 
perfectly friendly disposition, but appeared to be poor, 
evidently in want of a comfortable subsistence. We 
stopped for the night, after a ride of fifty miles, near 
one of these villages of Spokeins. Their language dif- 
fers entirely from that of any tribe or nation I have yet 
seen. One of my Indian guides was sufficiently ac- 



LOST ON THE PRAIRIE. 295 

quainted with it to inform them of the object of my 
tour through their country, with which they were not 
only satisfied, but apparently interested. 

We took an early departure on the morning of the 
26th, but travelled only a few hours before my Indian 
guides lost the trail and the course they should pursue. 
Becoming confident that they were not right, I alighted 
and set my pocket compass, and discovered that in- 
stead of a north-east direction, they were going west. 
Enquiring of them if they knew where to find our trail 
again, one of them, a young chief, putting his hand to 
his head, and with gestures expressing the confusion of 
his mind, answered, waiitu en soko, " I do not know." 
Our situation was rather embarrassing. We had very 
injudiciously left our rifles behind, and were at about 
an equal distance from Walla Walla and Colvile, on a 
widely extended prairie, with provisions adequate to 
our wants only for two days, and no probable means 
for obtaining more until we should arrive at the fort ; 
to be lost under these circumstances was very unpleas- 
ant. The point of a high mountain we had passed 
"was in view, and we might retrace our path, and there- 
fore I was determined not to lose sight of this land- 
mark until we should find the trail leading to the Spo- 
kein river. While my guides went off in search of it, 
I could hardly fail to find, even in our circumstances, 
some amusement in the apathy of my two Frenchmen. 
They are so confiding in Indian skill to find their way 
through any country, as by intuition, that they will 
sing or go to sleep with the same heedless indifference 
when lost in a wide wilderness, as when launched up- 
on the waters of a well known river, or performing the 
duties of the fort. They appear wholly unconscious 
of danger on the approach of hunger and starvation, 



296 SPOKEIN VALLEY. 

until long after the last morsel is consumed, and never 
borrow from futurity to add to the evils that afflict 
them to-day. On this occasion these men spent the 
time of our detention in calm repose. After some time 
our guides returned and told me they had found some 
Spokein Indians about a mile distant, who were trav- 
eling towards the south, but had stopped to refresh 
their horses. We proceeded to the place, and I en- 
gaged one of them to assist us in finding the way to 
the main trail, or to the Spokein river. He was a tall, 
intelligent looking man. He mounted his horse, and 
set off with such speed, that, jaded as our horses were, 
it was with difficulty we could keep up with him. Af- 
ter going at this rate more than an hour, he stopped, 
and pointed us to a lake, and said we should find the 
great trail on the east side. Lest we should again lose 
our way, I was anxious to have him conduct us to their 
village on the river, but could not prevail upon him to 
go any farther, although I offered him a large compen- 
sation. His only and unvarying answer was, that he 
had done for us all that was needed, and why should 
he perform any unnecessary labor for us and take pay. 
It appeared to be a principle with him, that it would 
be wrong for him to take pay for what we did not 
need. I was astonished at the honesty of this hea- 
then, and his steadfast adherence to it, when I remem- 
bered how many there are in civilized lands, who to 
be well paid, would lengthen a service to an unneces- 
sary extent, and artfully deceive you to make you be- 
lieve it very important. For his faithfulness and hon- 
esty I not only paid him on the spot to his satisfaction, 
but afterwards sent him a present of powder and balls, 
articles highly valued. 

Without any farther difficulty, we arrived at the 



SPOKEIN VALLEY. 297 

Spokein river, at four o'clock, P. M. A few miles af- 
ter we left the' lake, we entered the Spokein woods, 
which are very extensive, consisting of yellow, pitch, 
and elastic pine, some hemloc, spruce and fir, together 
with various shrubbery. These are the woods in 
which Ross Cox was lost, about the circumstances of 
which he gives a very interesting description, but 
which, so far as I have yet had an opportunity to judge, 
contains far more of fiction than truth. But his multi- 
tude of growling bears, and howling wolves, and 
alarming rattlesnakes, of which I have seen only one, 
may yet come out from their lurking places in hostile 
array. 

When we came to the river, which is about thirty 
rods wide, we hallooed a long time for the Indian who 
keeps a canoe ferry, but without suecess. At length 
two women came to the river, and with uncommonly 
pleasant voices, together with the language of signs, 
the latter of which only I could understand, informed 
us that the ferryman was gone upon a short hunt, would 
return in the evening, and the next morning at sun two 
hours high, he would come and take us over. I never 
heard voices more expressive of kindness. I requested 
them to paddle the canoe over to us, and my men 
would perform the labor of ferrying over our baggage. 
They declined on account of the rapidity and strength 
of the current, the river being in full freshet. There- 
fore we had to encamp and wait for the morning. 

This is a very pleasant, open valley, though not ex- 
tensively wide. The North-west Company had a tra- 
ding post here, one bastion of which is still standing. 
These woods present a fine range for the ornitholo- 
gist. The magpie is seen in great numbers, flying 
from tree to tree, vociferating its chattering notes. 
H* 



298 SPOKEIN VALLEY. 

Also, thrushes, warblers and wrens are numerous, 
cheering those otherwise solitary wilds with their de- 
lightful songs, grateful to the weary traveler. Their 
carols appear! to be designed to animate each other 
in their intervals of labor, while constructing their 
habitations so admirably adapted for their tender off- 
spring .; on an examination of which, the most infidel 
philosopher must be astonished, and be constrained to 
acknowledge that God has manifested himself in sup- 
plying, instead of reason, a mysterious, unerring in- 
stinct, always sufficient for the end to be accom- 
plished. 

On the 27th, about the time in the morning men- 
tioned by the two women, the Indian ferryman came, 
and crossed the river in his canoe, His appearance, 
together with that of his canoe, reminded me of 
iEneas' ferryman, who carried him over the Stygian 
lake. 

" Canites inculta jacet ; 

Sordidus ex humeris nodo dependet amictus, 

Coeruleam advertit cymbam, ripseque propinquat/' 

After the river, we crossed the valley of level allu- 
vial soil, where it is about a mile and a quarter wide, 
and the east side especially is very fertile. Here the 
principal village of the Spokeins is located, and one of 
their number has commenced the cultivation of a small 
field or garden, which he has planted with potatoes, 
peas, and beans, and some other vegetables ; all of 
which were flourishing, and were the first I had seen 
springing up under Indian industry west of the moun- 
tains. Our ferryman conducted us through the valley 
to the foot of the mountain on the east, an* 3 pointed 
out the trail we should pursue. As we wound our 
way up the mountain, I looked down into the valley 



VOLCANIC CURIOSITIES. 299 

we had crossed, and which stretches along the wind- 
ing river, and drew in my imagination a picture of 
what it will be, when this people are brought under 
the influence of Christianity and civilization. This 
section of country presents less appearance of volcanic 
operation ; and in several places I found granite in its 
natural form and position, resembling that found in the 
Eastern States. When we had arrived at the summit 
of this mountain, we came to a sandy plain, several 
miles wide covered with yellow pine forming an open 
forest. Over parts of this plain were scattered volca- 
nic eruptions of singular formation. Hundreds of re- 
gular cones of various magnitudes, from those of only 
a few feet in diameter and height, to those a hundred 
in diameter and sixty feet high. They all had the 
same appearance, differing only in magnitude, and 
were composed of broken granite, in angular pieces, 
from those that were very small to six or eight inches 
in diameter, and on the outside were nearly black, as 
if colored with rising smoke. They had more the ap- 
pearance of being broken by manual labor, and piled 
up for future use in constructing roads or wharves, 
than the result of internal fires, and yet no other cause 
but the latter can be assigned. The sandy plain 
around them was undisturbed, and large pine trees 
were growing about them as in other places. At the 
south of these were large rocks of granite, and in jux- 
taposition a basaltic dyke extending a hundred rods or 
more. 

After passing this plain we descended and came 
again to the Spokein river, which makes a bend around 
to the north-east. In this place the valley is less exten- 
sive, and the mountains are more precipitous. We 
again ascended the mountain, upon which granite 



300 ANXIETY OF THE SPOKEINS. 

and mica slate prevail, without any volcanic appear- 
ances. From this we descended into a rich valley, 
which was covered with a luxuriant growth of grass, 
though but just springing up. This valley has the ap- 
pearance of having been a lake filled up with moun- 
tain deposits. In the centre is a small lake, from 
which proceeds a rivulet passing out at the south- 
west. Leaving this place, we wound around a moun- 
tain in a northerly direction, down a valley less fertile, 
but more extensive, and at four in the afternoon came 
to a stream of water, coming from the mountains at 
the east, where our guides said we must stop for the 
night. 

Near evening, several different companies of Spo- 
kein and some Nez Perce Indians came riding full 
speed into the place of our encampment, and turned 
out their horses with ours in the half wood and prai- 
rie. * The Spokeins who had seen me on my way, and 
had learned who I was, sent information out to the va- 
rious hunting parties, that a minister was passing 
through their country, and as it was the first time one 
was ever among them, they wished to see him and 
hear what he had to say to them. They brought with 
them a good interpreter, a young man of their nation, 
who had been in the school at the Red river settlement 
near lake Winnepeg, on the east side of the mountain, 
and had obtained a very good knowledge of English. 
We had public worship that evening in the Spokein 
and Nez Perce languages. One of the Nez Perces, a 
chief, who understood the Spokein language, collected 
his people, a little to the left of the Spokeins, and 
translated the discourse as it was delivered, into the 
language of his people, without any interruption to the 
service. This was a plan of their own devising. All 






MILL RIVER VALLEY. 301 

the circumstances combined were to me unusually in- 
teresting. Providences above my control had delayed 
me three several times, and thus had given them an 
opportunity to collect their people and overtake me. 
Some of them had pursued my path a day and a half, 
and were unwilling to return, being resolved to ac- 
company me to Colvile. These benighted Indians 
manifested the same solicitude to hear the gospel that 
others had done before them. And as a most affecting 
proof that the impressions then made on their minds 
were not momentary, they went home and erected in 
their village a church, constructed of rude materials, 
surely, but designed as they said, to furnish a place* 
that when the next missionary should arrive, he might 
stop and teach them.* 

The morning of the 28th was cloudy and some rain 
fell, but this did not prevent our early departure ; for 
it was necessary to be on our way, as my men had the 
evening before consumed their entire stock of provi- 
sions, and, whatever might occur, we could procure 
no more until we should reach Colvile. We could not 
obtain any game, for being advised by the superinten- 
dent at Walla Walla, not to encumber ourselves with 
rifles, we had unwisely left them behind. After tra- 
veling a few miles in an easterly direction, we came to 
a very fertile valley, well adapted to cultivation, ex- 
tending north and south, at least fifty miles, and of va- 
rious extent in width, from half a mile to two miles. 
The valley is an open prairie, well supplied with grass, 



*The name of this nation is generally written Spokan, sometimes 
Spokane. I called them Spokans, hut they corrected my pronuncia- 
tion, and said Spokein, and this they repeated several times, until I was 
convinced that to give their name a correct pronunciation it should b§ 
written Spokein, 



302 FORT COL VILE. 

and even in this high latitude of 48°, cattle could do 
well through the whole year, without the labor of cut- 
ting hay. The hills on each side are covered with 
woods. As we proceeded down this valley, we came 
to villages of Indians who understood the Spokein lan- 
guage, but belonged to another tribe, probably to the 
Cceur d'Alene. Near their principal village we came 
to Mill river, which was in full freshet. They had no 
canoes and we found difficulty in getting my baggage 
across. But the Nez Perce chief took part of it upon 
his shoulder, mounted his horse, and swam over, and 
crossed and recrossed until all was upon the other side. 
I then crossed upon a pole which was not the most de- 
sirable method, but still it was preferable to a cold 
bathing on horseback. After pursuing our course a 
few miles farther, I divided my remaining stock of eat- 
ables with my destitute French and Indian attendants, 
anticipating our next meal at the time when, after a 
long day's industrious travel, we should find ourselves 
safely at Colvile. 

Towards the lower part of the valley, through which 
we were passing, the land is remarkably fertile. A 
missionary located here, would have easy access to 
the Spokein, Sapwell, Sintou-tou-oulish, Kettle Falls, 
Lake, Coeur d'Alene, and Pondera Indians. I know 
not of so important a field within two hundred miles, 
presenting the natural advantages of mild climate, 
good soil, and forests. 

We arrived at Fort Colvile late in the afternoon, 
after a weary journey of sixty miles. The situation of 
this fort is on an elevated spot about fifty rods from 
the river, surrounded by an alluvial plain of rich soil, 
and opening in every direction an extended prospect 
of mountain scenery ; and half a mile below are Ket- 



WORSHIP AT THE FORT. 303 

tie Falls, above which the river spreads out widely, 
and moves slowly, but just above the precipice it con- 
tracts into a narrow channel, and disappears from the 
view of the spectator at the fort, until seen winding its 
way among rocks below. This establishment is built 
for defense and is well stoccaded, but so friendly have 
the natives always been, that no wars have ever oc- 
curred among them. It is occupied by some half do- 
zen men with Indian families, and is well supplied with 
the useful animals and fowls common to farming esta- 
blishments. The winter and summer grains, together 
with garden vegetables, are cultivated with success 
and in profusion. This place does not suffer with 
summer drouth, like many other parts of this country, 
as rains are of frequent occurrence ; the seasons here 
are not so distinctly divided, as on the lower parts of 
the Columbia, into wet and dry. 

I was much disappointed in not finding Mr. McDo- 
nald, the superintendent of the fort, at home. He had 
left a few days before with a brigade for Fort Vancou- 
ver ; but the kindest attention was paid me by those 
who had the charge of the • fort. I found here an old 
man, who, more than thirty years ago, accompanied 
Lewis and Clarke across the continent, and had for 
several years past taken up his residence here. He is 
in the employ of the fur company, and acts as inter- 
preter to the neighboring Indians. 

On Sabbath, the 29th, the people of the fort who un- 
derstood English, assembled, and we worshiped the 
God of our lives, who had protected us hitherto, and 
from different nations had collected us in a little group 
in this region of the world. The Indians, too, came 
about me and expressed great anxiety to be taught the 
revealed will of God. They endeavored to make me 



304 JOURNEY DOWN THE COLUMBIA. 

understand what their former traditionary belief and 
practices had been, and to let me know, that what 
they had learned from me was reasonable and satis- 
factory to them, and that they wished to know all that 
related to so important and momentous a subject. 
But our medium of communication was inadequate to 
a full disclosure of that most interesting truth, that God 
so loved the world that he gave his only Son to die for 
its redemption. 

Wherever I have met with the natives of this dis- 
tant region, they have invariably, with earnestness and 
importunity, asked the gift of the gospel from the 
hands of Christians. But how little of the faith, and 
love, and liberality of the church is invested in the 
most profitable of all enterprises, the conversion of the 
world. Should some one propose the construction of 
a rail road from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and de- 
monstrate the practicability of the measure, and show 
that nature has interposed no effectual barrier, and 
that it would concentrate not only the whole internal, 
but also the China trade, and the stock would produce 
annually a rich dividend, how soon would Christians 
engage in it. 

Monday the 30th of May, we commenced our jour- 
ney down the Columbia. The brigade having taken 
all the boats from this place on their late passage to 
Fort Vancouver, we were compelled to take horses for 
Okanagan. I changed my guides for two others ; one 
a Spokein, and the other a Paloose ; retaining my two 
voyageurs. As we left Fort Colvile we had a fine 
view of Kettle Falls. The Columbia was in its freshet, 
and as it rolled down in a broken cataract the distance 
of one hundred feet, it was a sublime spectacle. The 
whole scenery as we proceded down the river was 






LOCATION OF MARBLE. 305 

marked by variety, wildness, and romantic grandeur, 
as if the hand of nature, in decking these remote re- 
gions, had consulted for her own amusement some of 
her most playful and tasteful fancies. The mountains 
around are constructed on a scale of magnificence, 
presenting almost all the varieties of elevation, of pre- 
cipice, and forest. This is the country, which, by 
more than one of my predecessors in travel, has been 
celebrated as the abode of wolves, bears, and rattle- 
snakes, to an extent that renders it almost impenetra- 
ble by ordinary courage ; but we found no indications 
of the presence of these animals before this evening, 
when the distant barking of a prairie wolf, for once in- 
terrupted the universal silence by which we were sur- 
rounded. 

After a few hours' ride on the morning of the 31st, 
we re-crossed, in a canoe, the Spokein river just above 
its entrance into the Columbia. This large valley is 
capable of supporting a much more numerous popula- 
tion than now obtain a subsistence by hunting and fish- 
ing. The Indians residing here afforded us, very 
cheerfully, all the assistance we needed in ferrying the 
river. In the neighborhood of this place I discovered 
a mountain of rich and very beautiful saccharine mar- 
ble, situated on the south side of the Columbia river ; 
some sections are pure white, while others are beauti- 
fully clouded with blue and brown. It effervesced 
freely with sulphuric acid. This will in time become 
very valuable, for being upon navigable waters, it can 
be transported into various countries. Several miles 
below this marble location, I was interested with the 
juxtaposition of granite and basalt. It was on an ele- 
vated piece of land one hundred and fifty feet above 
the river. Near the river there were large quantities 



306 GRAND COULE. 

of solid granite in its natural position, without any ap- 
pearance of having undergone an igneous influence, 
and near by to the left was a stupendous dyke of basalt 
rising two hundred feet, presenting the appearance of 
having been thrown up by several successive volcanic 
eruptions ; the earth on the back side gradually rising 
to a mountain. 

At this place we left the river, to save traversing a 
great bend, and took a westerly course, expecting to 
reach it again before night. We pursued our way 
over an elevated prairie, destitute of wood and water. 
It became evident that night would overtake us before 
we could reach the river, unless we should urge for- 
ward with all the speed that humanity for our horses 
would permit. Before five oclock we came near the 
great gulf walled up with basalt, which we supposed, 
embosomed the deep-flowing Columbia. Our next ob- 
ject was to find a place where we could descend to its 
shores. After ranging along two or three miles, we 
found a descent by a ravine ; but to our disappointment 
discovered that it was the Grand Coule, which was 
undoubtedly the former channel of the river. With 
considerable difficulty we wound our way into it, and 
found it well covered with grass, and by searching, 
obtained a small supply of water. This quondam 
channel of the river, is nearly a mile wide, with a level 
bottom, and studded with islands. Its sides are lined, 
as the river itself is in many places, with volcanic rocks, 
two and three hundred feet perpendicular. This Coute 
separates to the left from the present channel of the 
Columbia, about one hundred miles Delow Colvile, and 
is about one hundred miles in length, when it again 
unites with the river. The volcanic appearances are 
exhibited here as in other places, furnishing evidences 



FORT OKANAGAN. 



30? 



of eruptions at different periods of time. A peculiarity 
in this instance was a stratum of yellow earth, eight 
or ten feet in thickness between the strata of basalt. 
Those who have travelled through the whole length of 
the Coule, represent it as having the same general fea- 
tures throughout, while the whole distance of the river 
around to the place where it again unites, as I know 
from personal observation, has not the peculiarity of a 
deep channel, cut through the rocks. 

We left the grand Coule early on the morning of the 
1st of June, and with difficulty ascended the western 
bank. * Before noon my guides lost the way to Oka- 
nagan, and wandered far out upon the wide prairie 
where there was no water. Losing my confidence in 
their knowledge of the country, except on some fre- 
quented routes, I directed my course by my compass 
to the north-west for the river ; and perceiving a snow- 
topped mountain in the distance, I concluded the river 
must lie between it and ourselves, and accordingly 
made it my landmark, Pursuing this direction, a few 
hours with rapid speed, we came to a slope which grad- 
ually narrowed into a ravine, and introduced us at 
length to a spring of water. Our thirsty horses rushed 
into it, and it was with difficulty we could control their 
excess in drinking. We followed this ravine, the wa- 
ter of which continually gained accessions until it be- 
came a large stream, with a rich valley of alluvial bot- 
tom, and united its waters with the Columbia, a few 
miles above Fort Okanagan, the place of our desti- 
nation. 

We left our horses on the south side of the river, and 
passed over in a canoe to Fort Okanagan, which is sit- 
uated on the north side of the Columbia, above the con- 
fluence of the Okanagan river, from which, and from the 



308 OKANAGAN INDIANS. 

Indians residing in its vicinity, the fort takes its name. 
It was first built by Mr. David Stuart, a partner of the 
American Fur Company, in 1811. There is an open 
space of considerable extent around ; the soil is of an 
inferior quality, hard and gravelly, but producing grass 
to supply the cattle and horses belonging to the station. 
A few fertile spots of alluvial soil are found in the vi- 
cinity. The Columbia does not appear to have con- 
tinued so long in its present channel, since leaving the 
Grand Coule, as to form those extensive alluvial bot- 
toms, which exist in many other parts of its course. 
After leaving the Spokein woods there is very little 
forest to supply timber for fuel, fencing, or building. 
They are dependent on floodwood, which descends the 
river, for their ordinary fuel, and the freshets generally 
furnish a large supply. Not far distant at the north 
there are snow-topped mountains, yet the country here 
is not remarkably mountainous. At this place I had an 
opportunity to see some of the Okanagan tribe. Their 
personal appearance is less noble than the Spokeins, 
but they are not less peaceable, friendly, and honest in 
their dispositions. This is evident from the fact that 
the charge of the Fort in the absence of Capt. Ogden, 
the superintendent, was committed temporarily to a 
Frenchman, and several of the Indians. This tribe 
with the Shooshaps number about two thousand per- 
sons. They are much employed in the salmon fishery, 
and large quantities are prepared by drying for the 
winter's use. Their country does not abound in game, 
and hunting occupies but little of their time. The cli- 
mate here, as in other parts of the Oregon Territory, 
is very mild and salubrious. 

Wishing to pursue my way down the river, I hired 
two Indians to assist my two Frenchmen in navigating 



JOURNEY DOWN THE COLUMBIA. 309 

a bateau which we obtained at this place ; and com- 
mitted our horses to my Indian guides to take them 
across the country to Walla Walla. My confidence 
in the honesty of these men was without any suspicion, 
and I could trust them with our six horses, saddles and 
bridles, to go on any enterprise within their capacity 
to accomplish. They have so much self-respect, that 
they would not on any account commit a crime, which 
would expel them from their people, induce them to 
seek concealment, or abridge their liberties as free- 
men. 

We embarked in our boat, June 2d, to perform a voy- 
age of four hundred miles, with the river in full freshet ; 
and its strong current increased by high water, secured 
to us a velocity beyond the ordinary. We passed 
several rapids, and dashed over the breaking surges, 
where the least mismanagement would have caused 
inevitable submersion without any prospect of escape. 
But my voyageurs showed by their adroitness at the 
oar, that they were upon their favorite element, and 
their gayety and songs began to revive, on being re- 
lieved from the rough, and to them unpleasant journey 
on horseback, over hills and down ravines, and through 
forests. The elasticity of their native character was 
almost immediately apparent, and we glided on with 
celerity, making a voyage of one hundred miles before 
it was necessary to seek our safety for the night on 
shore. The country through which we passed to-day 
was rather mountainous. I saw many locations of 
granite in its natural state, but as we proceeded, vol- 
canic operations began to appear, and the granite ex- 
hibited the effects of intense heat, until it wholly disap- 
peared, and breccia, amygdaloid, basalt, and lava took 



310 LONG RAPIDS. 

its place. In the afternoon we passed a perpendicular 
section of rock, two hundred and fifty feet high ; half 
way to the top of which, a petrified tree of considera- 
ble magnitude is suspended. It appears to be retained 
in its place by having its roots inserted in the crevices 
of the rocks, between the layers of different eruptions. 
How it procured its elevated situation is quite a mys- 
tery. It. could not have vegetated there, unless at the 
time of its growth, it was supported by a surface upon 
which to rise ; and taking the present condition of the 
rocks, it could not be deposited there by any floods of 
the river, and certainly it could not in such case, inter- 
twine its roots in the crevices of the rocks. Gentle- 
men of the Hudson Bay Company, and others who nav- 
igate this river, have amused themselves by shooting 
off pieces with their rifles, and they assured me it was 
wholly a petrifaction. Our encampment this evening 
was a few miles above the Long Rapids, which extend 
nine miles. 

On the 3d, as we approached the Long Rapids about 
fifty miles above Walla Walla they presented the ap- 
pearance of waves rolling under a strong breeze of 
wind, and their distant murmur broke upon the stillness 
of the morning. To pass them without fear, is an un- 
dertaking which requires courage and self possession ; 
but knowing that these inland navigators are experi- 
enced in all the dangers of boating excursions, I had but 
little drawback upon the pleasure I anticipated in a 
swift descent over them. With much care and exertion 
ofmymenwe safely outrode them, a distance of nine 
miles, in forty minutes. It is this variety of falls, cas- 
cades, and rapids, together with the ever-varying 
scenery of nature's wildest and grandest forms, that 



INDIANS CATCHING SALMON. 311 



keeps the mind from wearying, and awakens almost 
perpetually some new emotions and energies, while 
performing a voyage of several hundred miles in open 
bateaux orlight canoes. Not unfrequently in the still- 
ness and solitude of the river, when it assumed its more 
placid features, such a sense of security is enjoyed, that 
a resort to books, to assist in a profitable disposition of 
time, is pleasant. 

My voyageurs called my attention to a red lurid as- 
pect of the atmosphere in the south, and said we should 
have a strong wind from that quarter. Their prognos- 
tication was soon realized. The gale did not last long, 
and the only remarkable feature was, that when it sub- 
sided, it was almost instantaneously. 

Through the distance of about one hundred miles, 
which we passed to-day, the country is level and desti- 
tute of wood. I observed a bank of clay in layers 
of diversified structure, such as I have often noticed. 
The different sections were of various colors ; some 
dusky red, some yellow, and blue, and others white, 
making an upright elevation of one hundred feet or 
more. 

Salmon are ascending the river in great numbers, 
and groups of Indians are scattered along pursuing the 
employment of catching them. Wherever we passed 
them, they came off in their canoes, bringing salmon 
to sell, some of which were roasted in the best manner, 
and served up on broad pieces of bark, which answered 
a good purpose in the absence of plates ; and often 
large leaves of plants were spread neatly upon the 
bark. Upon these we dined, without bread, vegeta- 
bles, or salt. My voyageurs found sufficient employ- 
ment in the gratification of their appetites, to interrupt 



312 ARRIVAL AT WALLA WALLA. 

for a while their anecdote and song. We arrived at 
Walla Walla at evening, just in season to find shelter 
from one of the most violent thunder storms, accompa- 
nied with wind, which I have witnessed in this country. 
Such storms are of rare occurrence west of the moun- 
tains. 



SNAKE INDIANS. 313 



CHAPTER XXII. 

A summary of the Indians of the Upper country — nanies of the tribes, 
their locations, and numbers — leave Walla Walla for Fort Vancouver 
— swift passage down the river — run the Falls — Cascades — dangerous 
eddy— arrive at Vancouver — Steamboat excursion. 

Having traveled over the most important parts of 
the upper country, and collected the facts of its physi- 
cal condition, together with the location, character, 
and condition of the most numerous tribes of Indians ; 
before leaving this section of the territory west of the 
Rocky Mountains, it may be proper to give a con- 
nected summary of these particulars. On the south 
part of the Oregon Territory, adjoining Upper Cali- 
fornia, are located the Shoshones or Snake Indians. I 
was not able to gain knowledge of their definite num- 
bers, but the general estimate is that they are more 
than ten thousand. Their country is decidedly the 
most barren, west of the mountains ; most parts being 
covered with scoria and other volcanic productions. 
These Indians are poor, and as indicative of their condi- 
tion and their resources, they are called Snake Indians, 
and Root diggers. Some of them go to the mountains 
and hunt buffalo, and they very generally resort to the 
river in the season of fishing. They have a tolerable 
supply of horses. When they go to Rendezvous they 
make a great display, advancing on horseback, dressed 
in their most fantastic manner, exhibiting all their or- 
naments of feathers, beads, wolf-tails, teeth and claws 
of animals, arranged according to their notions of good 
H 



314 INDIANS DIFFERENT TRIBES. 

taste. The warriors are armed, hideously painted, 
and those who have been wounded in battle are very 
fond of showing their sears. After coursing around 
and through the camp of Rendezvous for some time, 
they dismount and go through the ceremony of sha- 
king hands. I had also an opportunity of seeing many 
of these and the Utaws at Rendezvous-. The country 
of the Utaws is situated to the east and south-east of 
the Shoshones, about the Salt Lake and on the head 
waters of the Colorado river, which empties into the 
gulf of California. They number nearly four thou- 
sand persons, and appear to be a mild and peaceable 
people, honest, kind, and hospitable to strangers, and 
affectionate among themselves. They live by hunt- 
ing, fishing, and gathering roots and berries. Their 
dress is plain, and their manners are unassuming. 
Their country being in latitude about 41°, has a fine 
climate and good soil. 

Proceeding north, we come to the country of th8 
Nez Perces, which has many fertile parts adapted to 
tillage, and is throughout a fine grazing country. They 
number about two thousand five hundred ; but they 
have already been often mentioned. 

The Cayuses are situated to the west of the Nez 
Perces, and very much resemble them in person, dress, 
habits, and morals. They are equally peaceable, hon- 
est, and hospitable to strangers. They number more 
than two thousand persons. Their wealth consists in 
horses, which are unusually fine and numerous ; it be- 
ing no uncommon thing for one man to own several 
hundred. Their country, especially that about the 
Grand Round, is uncommonly fertile, producing spon- 
taneously cammas in great abundance, upon which, 
with fish and some game, they principally subsist. 



INDIANS DIFFERENT TRIBES. 315 

They express the same anxiety to be instructed as the 
Nez Perces and Flatheads. 

The Walla Walla Indians inhabit the country about 
the river of the same name, and range some distance 
below, along the Columbia river. The number of per- 
sons in this tribe is about five hundred. In their cha- 
racter, employments, and moral habits, they do not 
materially differ from the last named tribes. 

The Paloose tribe are properly a part of the Nez 
Perces, and in all respects are like them. Their resi- 
dence is along the Nez Perce river and up the Pa- 
vilion. They number about three hundred. The four 
last named tribes speak the same language with a little 
dialectical difference. 

North-east of the Palooses are the Spokein nation. 
They number about eight hundred persons, besides 
some small tribes adjoining them who might be counted 
a part of their nation. I have so fully described them 
that it is unnecessary to enlarge upon their character. 
Their country is much diversified with mountains and 
valleys, prairie and woods, and a large part is of pri- 
mitive formation, and some parts are very fertile. 
They denominate themselves the children of the sun, 
which in their language is Spokein. Their main de- 
pendence for subsistence is upon fishing and hunting, 
together with gathering roots and berries. I have 
stated that a commencement is made in agriculture, 
which it is to be hoped will be generally adopted, so 
that their present precarious mode of living may give 
place to that which will be substantial. They have 
many horses, but not so numerous as their neighbors 
farther south. East of these are the Cceur d'Alene In- 
dians, whose numbers are about seven hundred, and 
who are characterized by civility, honesty, and kind- 



316 INDIANS A CHIEF'S ANECDOTE. 

ness. Their country is more open than that of the 
Spokeins, and equally, if not better adapted to agri- 
culture. 

The country of the Flatheads is still farther east and 
south-east, and extends to the Rocky Mountains. 
They are a very interesting tribe ; dignified in their 
persons, noble, frank, and generous in their disposi- 
tions, and have always shown a firm attachment to 
white men. They number about eight hundred per- 
sons, and live a wandering life. For subsistence they 
follow the buffalo upon the head waters of Clarke and 
Salmon rivers, and often pass over to the head waters 
of the Missouri. They have become a small tribe by 
constant wars with the Blackfeet Indians, though they 
themselves are not of a ferocious or hostile disposition. 
Being averse to war, they wish to settle upon their 
lands, and are only waiting to be instructed in the arts 
of civilization, and in Christianity. 

Their country is mountainous, but intersected with 
pleasant, fertile valleys, large portions of which are 
prairie. The mountains are cold, but in the valleys 
the climate is mild. 

An anecdote was related by a chief of this nation, 
which illustrates their native character, and the pro- 
pensity of Indians to imitation. He said the first white 
man he saw was when he was young. It was sum- 
mer. He said, " these are a new people, they look 
cold, their faces are white and red ; go make a large 
fire, and I will ask them to come and warm them.'* 
In a short time his people had made a fire, and brought 
new buffalo robes. The white men came into his 
lodge, and he wrapped them in the robes and seated 
them by the fire that they might be warm. The robes 
slipped off; he replaced them. Soon the white men 



INDIANS DIFFERENT TRIBES. 317 

made signs to smoke their pipe. The chief thought 
they asked for food, and brought them meat. The 
white men gave him the pipe, and he and his people 
smoked, " and after this they loved smoke, and they 
loved the white men, and said they were good." 

The Ponderas are so like the Flatheads in person, 
manners, and character, that a particular description 
of them may be passed over. They number about 
two thousand two hundred, and live on the north of 
Clarke's river, and on a lake which takes its name from 
the tribe. Their country has many fertile parts, and 
would soon be put under cultivation, if they could ob- 
tain instructors to teach them agriculture, and to im- 
part to them a knowledge of those things which 
are necessary to constitute a happy and prosperous 
community. Their language is the same as the Spo- 
keins' and Flatheads'. The Cootanies inhabit a sec- 
tion of country to the north of the Ponderas, along 
M'Gillivray's river, and are represented as an uncom- 
monly interesting people. They speak a language 
distinct from all the tribes about them, open and sono- 
rous, and free from gutterals, which are common in 
the language of the surrounding tribes. They are 
neat in their persons and lodges, candid and honest, 
and kind to each other. I could not ascertain their 
numbers, but probably they are not over a thousand. 

There are several other tribes of Indians, whose 
countries are situated upon the waters of the north- 
east branch of the Columbia river, resembling each 
other so nearly in their customs, morals, manners, and 
mode of living, that it is unnecessary to go into a sepa- 
rate and particular description of each. I will men- 
tion the names, locations, and number of some of the 
principal tribes. North of the Cootanies are the Car- 



318 DESCEND THE KIVER. 

riers, whose number is estimated to be four thousand. 
South of these are the Lake Indians so named from 
their place of residence, which is about the Arrow 
Lakes. They are about five hundred in number. At 
the south, and about Colvile, are the Kettle Falls In- 
dians, who number five hundred and sixty. West of 
these are the Sinpauelish, one thousand in number ; 
and below these are the Shooshaps, having a popula- 
tion of five hundred and seventy-five. At the west 
and north-west, next in order are the Okanagans, 
numbering one thousand and fifty. To the north and 
west are several tribes, about whom I obtained no de- 
finite information. Between Okanagan and the Long 
Rapids are detachments of Indians, who appear poor, 
and wanting in that manly and active spirit which cha- 
racterizes the tribes above named. South of the Long 
Rapids, to the confluence of Lewis' river with the Co- 
lumbia, are the Yookoomans, a more active people, 
numbering about seven hundred. The whole number 
of the above named Indians, is thirty-two thousand five 
hundred and eighty-five. This is probably a low esti- 
mate, as in the number, the Falls and La Dalles In- 
dians are not included, nor many other numerous tribes 
residing at the north and south of the Falls of the Co- 
lumbia, whose numbers I could not with certainty as- 
certain. We might more than double this number, and 
probably still come below the population of the upper 
country. 

The Indians to whom our horses were entrusted, 
came in safely, as I expected. After resting on the 
Sabbath, we renewed, on Monday, the 6th, our voy- 
age down the river, having Fort Vancouver for our 
next destination. We exchanged the bateau for a 
large canoe? retaining the men who attended me from 



HUN THE FALLS OF THE COLUMBIA. 319 

Okanagan. Assisted by the high water, we made rapid 
progress until three in the afternoon, when a strong 
head wind compelled us to take to the land for the 
remainder of the day, having gone seventy-five miles. 
The Indians as usual came to us in their friendly man- 
ner, offering us salmon, and asking for tobacco, which 
they esteem more highly than either gold or silver. 
They have been accustomed to traffic in this commo- 
dity, until they expect it of every passing traveler. 

The morning of the 7th of June was more calm, and 
we got under way at an early hour, but with the ri- 
sing day the wind again increased to such a degree, 
that we were obliged to suspend our vo3^age. After a 
strenuous endeavor to effect a landing on the north, 
we were at length, without the power of controlling 
our canoe, and in much danger, driven across to the 
opposite shore, where we succeeded in landing, and 
here for the first time in all my travels., I found it im- 
possible to pitch my tent, such being the strength of 
the wind, that it would have been carried away. 
The canoe was drawn upon the shore, and wrapping 
myself in my blankets and buffalo robes, I laid me down 
in safety by the side of the canoe. We had here, as 
at all our other landing places, the usual friendly visit 
from the neighboring Indians. 

The following day we were able at an early hour to 
resume our journey, and passed the rapids, which in 
the tempest of yesterday looked so forbidding. A lit- 
tle caution on the part of my experienced Frenchman 
in regard to the numerous islands and eddies, enabled 
us to effect the passage in perfect safety. In a short 
time we approached the falls of the Columbia, which, 
in low water, are twenty feet perpendicular, followed 
by raging rapids below. Bousheau, my steersman, 



320 RUN THE FALLS. 

proposed to run the falls, saying that there was no 
danger in full freshet, and that it would save a por- 
tage. We were then passing a section of the river 
where the banks were walled up with baealt ; and while 
I was revolving in my mind the chances of safety, I 
concluded, that when we should come to the great ba- 
sin above the falls, I would be set on shore ; but when 
we came to the basin, the water of the river, rushing 
from the mural shores, formed impassable breakers on 
the right and on the left, and onward we must go, let 
consequences be what they would. We kept near the 
middle of the river, which was free from breakers, 
though not from high surges. Soon, with amazing ve- 
locity, we were over the cataract of the mighty waters, 
and made our way into a bay at the head of the first 
portage of the La Dalles. The accumulation of water 
from these stupendous mountains above, was so great, 
that the narrow channel of the La Dalles, studded with 
basaltic islands, so obstructed the passage of the river, 
that the falls were almost lost in the depth. 

Such were the eddies and surging of the water 
among the rocky islands in the narrow broken chan- 
nel of the La Dalles, that we had to make three porta- 
ges. Our canoe was so large that twenty Indians 
were not too many to carry it safely. Their mode of 
carrying is to invert it upon their heads and shoulders, 
and then it is with difficulty and* danger that they pass 
the steep and rocky ravines. When we came to the 
last portage, the Indians were not willing to take hold 
again unless we would pay them in powder and balls ; 
and although their demands were reasonable, yet my 
stores were not adequate to meet them, and they 
would not perform the labor without the required ar- 
ticles. I engaged Sopelay, and another influential 



DANGEROUS WHIRLPOOL. 321 

chief, to induce their men to perform the labor of ma- 
king this last portage, and promised that I would send 
them the demand from Fort Vancouver, and for their 
security I would give them a talking paper. They 
stated to their people my proposal, and were about to 
succeed, when Tilki, the first chief, who had become 
familiar with an American trader, laughed at their 
credulity. Sopelay, however, stated to the people, 
that he had seen me at the fort, and that he heard me 
teach the Indians good things, and did not believe I 
would deceive them. He prevailed, and the men took 
hold of the work ; and in four hours from passing the 
falls we were beyond the raging water, where we 
made our morning repast upon very fine salmon. 

Our voyage during the remainder of the day was 
pleasant ; we passed Cape Horn without difficulty, and 
landed for the night twelve miles above the Cascades. 
In this high state of the water, very few of the trees of 
the submerged forest were to be seen. 

On the morning of the 9th, we passed the Cascades 
by hiring Indians to cordelle the canoe down them, ex- 
clusive of one short portage, the distance of two miles 
to the great basin, or rather the great whirlpool be- 
low. This labor is attended with some danger, and 
cases, though not numerous, have occurred of the loss 
of lives and property. As I walked along the shores, 
and over precipices, I saw the wrecks of several ca- 
noes and bateaux strewed upon the rocks. We em- 
barked upon the great basin, at the lower part of 
which we passed into a rapid, where the main current 
took a diagonal course from the north towards the 
south shore. On both sides of this current there were 
heavy breakers, and as the only course of safety, we 
took the middle. We had not proceeded far before a 
14** 



322 A FIELD FOR NATURALISTS. 

large whirlpool, with a deep devouring vortex, formed 
almost directly before us, and as we were going for- 
ward very swiftly, it seemed impossible to avoid its cir- 
cling current. I said to my steersman, bear a little to 
the right. "O don't speak here," was his reply. As 
we approached the vortex, it filled after the manner of 
smaller eddies, and we soon felt the influence of its 
waters rolling out from the centre, and all our strength 
was required to resist them, lest we should be thrown 
upon the breakers. We passed with the rapidity of 
the wind, and in a short time were upon the smooth 
surface of the tide waters below. 

The sensations excited in descending these Cascades 
are of that peculiar character, which are best under- 
stood by experience. The sensation of fear is no 
sooner awakened than it subsides before the power and 
magnificence of the rolling surges, the circling vorti- 
ces, and the roaring breakers. Let those whose dor- 
mant energies, either of body or mind, need arousing, 
try the navigation of the Columbia in high water, and 
their powers will be invigorated for almost any future 
enterprise. Such is the fascinating power, I had al- 
most said magic of these scenes, that those who are 
accustomed to be employed upon these waters, though 
far away from home and kindred, become attached 
to this mode of life, and are reluctant to abandon it for 
any other. Each time the scenery of these interesting 
Cascades is beheld, new wonders unfold themselves* 
Niagara itself, if we except its unbroken fall of one 
hundred and fifty feet, cannot bear a comparison with 
the superior style of nature's works here. Nor are 
these things created merely to attract our momentary 
admiration. Science in very many of its departments, 
may find subjects for investigation. 



A FIELD FOR NATURALISTS. 323 

While the ornithologist listens to the songsters of the 
forests, and in these enchanting solitudes follows them 
with his eye, as they dart from bough to bough ; he 
regards with admiration the noble and majestic White 
headed eagle, as he takes his favorite perch upon the 
loftiest heights of some needle-pointed rock, or the 
summit of some leafless tree, or as he darts from thence 
upon his prey ; or his attention may be arrested by the 
daring fish-hawk in his rapid descent upon the finny 
tribe. An amusing occurrence took place in my view. 
A fish-hawk seized upon a fish of such magnitude, that 
the contest for a long time was doubtful, as the splash- 
ing water indicated, which should exchange its native 
element. The resistence was so great that a disen- 
gagement was deemed the best policy. 

Here also the botanist, while he forbears to ascend 
the lofty mountains, which for him present an aspect 
of too much dreariness, may retire into the narrow re- 
ceding valleys, or wind his way over sunny hills in 
search of new genera of plants, or at least new species, 
with which to immortalize his name, and add to the 
stores of his favorite science. 

The geologist, while he admires the stupendous 
monuments of volcanic operations before him, may also 
find much to interest him in examining more minute 
formations. Along the rugged shores are scattered 
specimens of calcedony, jasper, agate, and cornelian. 
He may examine the cellules of the immense masses 
of amygdaloid ; the columnar basalt and the moun- 
tains shooting up their denticulated forms and nee- 
dle-points. His attention will be drawn to the ex- 
amination of the lava, breccia, and trachyte ; and he 
will be interested in finding many dendrolites. When 
he looks at the deep channel through which the Colum- 



324 ARRIVAL AT THE FORT. 

bia river finds its onward way to the Pacific ocean, if 
he doubts the agency of God in forming the courses of 
the rivers, he may indulge his imagination in computing 
how long it has taken this river to wear down the im- 
mensely hard basalt a thousand feet ; and having as- 
certained how long it takes to wear any given 
depth, he may then make his mathematical conclu- 
sions how long the process has been going on. But if 
he is a Christian philosopher, while he admits second 
causes, he may look up to the first great Cause, and 
admire and adore ; and not regarding baseless theories, 
may exclaim, " How wonderful are thy works, in wis/- 
dom hast thou made them all.'* 

As we passed out of the mountain country about the 
Cascades, we found the wide valley below so inunda- 
ted, as to present the appearance of an inland sea. I 
arrived safely at the fort, found my friends well, and 
exchanged cordial congratulations. 

Sabbath, June 12th, I preached to the people of the 
fort, and in the evening had a third service, in which 
as heretofore, an opportunity was given to those 
present, to propose questions on any subject of reli- 
gion about which they wished information. I was par- 
ticularly gratified to find, that during my absence, 
public worship had been maintained, and an effort had 
been made to bring the French Canadians to attend 
upon religious instruction. They are assembled twice 
on the Sabbath, and a portion of scripture and a ser- 
mon in French, are read to them by Dr. McLaughlin. 

I was favored with an opportunity to send to Sope- 
lay the promised powder and balls, by Capt. Black, a 
gentleman of the Company, who in a few 'days was to 
leave Vancouver for his station north of Fort Okana- 
gan. 



NAVIGABLE WATERS. 325 

On the 14th, we took a water excursion in the steam 
boat Beaver, Capt. Home, down the Columbia to the 
confluence of the western branch of the Multnomah ; 
up this river into the Willamette, and then into the 
middle branch of the Multnomah, and through it into 
the Columbia, and back to the fort. All the low lands 
were overflowed with the annual freshet, and presented 
the appearance of an immense bay, extending far into 
the country. The day was pleasant and our company 
cheerful. The novelty of a steam-boat on the Co- 
lumbia, awakened a train of prospective reflections 
upon the probable changes which would take place in 
these remote regions, in a very few years. It wag 
wholly an unthought of thing when I first contemplated 
this enterprise, that I should find here this forerunner 
of commerce and business. The gayety which pre- 
vailed was often suspended, while we conversed of 
coming days, when with civilized men, all the rapid 
improvements in the arts of life, should be introduced 
over this new world, and when cities and villages shall 
spring up on the west, as they are springing up on 
the east of the great mountains, and a new empire 
shall be added to the kingdoms of the earth. 

The Columbia is the only river of magnitude in the 
Oregon Territory, and this is navigable for ships but 
one hundred and thirty miles to the Cascades ; and it 
is the only one which affords a harbor for large ships 
on the coast, from California to the 49° of north lati- 
tude. For bateaux and various other light craft, the 
Columbia and its branches are navigable a thousand 
miles. The internal navigation could not be much im- 
proved, unless at great expense, by canals around the 
rapids and falls, which are so numerous that ascending 
the river is now difficult. Still a considerable interior 



326 NAVIGABLE WATERS. 

trade is carried on by means of these waters, and the 
ingenuity of men on the west, when it shall be more 
extensively populated, will contrive facilities, as on 
the east, for greatly improving the intercourse of re- 
mote and different portions of this territory. 



GEOLOGY. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

Geology. 

Having remarked on the features of the country 
through which I passed, as I proceeded, I shall now 
give a more connected and summary view of facts, 
the result of my observations in relation to the geology 
of that hitherto unexplored region. la what I have to 
say, however, on the observed facts, it cannot be ex- 
pected that I should be able to give a complete view 
of the geology of so extensive a territory ; it being 
greater than the whole of the United States east of the 
Allegany Mountains.. The complexity, too, must be 
considered, of plainly marked phenomena, resulting 
from long continued igneous action, where both an- 
cient and comparatively recent products are so blen- 
ded, that time and much experience alone can resolve 
appearances at first view inexplicable. For perhaps 
no country of the whole globe presents bolder and 
more striking changes, than that of Oregon, and 
the difficulties are, that they are so many, so great, 
and so sudden. Let the reader also add to this the 
circumstances under which the author was compelled 
to note the data of his conclusions. He regrets that 
in his brief stay in a country, where many years are 
requisite fully to investigate all its interesting pheno- 
mena, and in a field so rich, he could make but few 
measurements, and only judge in most cases by ap- 
proximate modes. As to the strict scientific accuracy 



330 GEOLOGY. 

of his statements, he deems it no more than just to say, 
that while he doubts not that the facts he details are 
worthy the attention of scientific men, and are correct 
in re, so that perfect reliance may be placed on them, 
yet he feels himself to have wanted that almost intu- 
itive knowledge, which he alone possesses who has 
long been a field laborer. 

With these considerations the author presents the 
result of his observations, hoping the reader may find 
much that is valuable respecting these regions of the 
setting sun, replete as they are with interest, arising 
from grandeur both of scenery, and of develope- 
ments of the modes and effects of the operations of the 
great geological agents ; especially of that element, 
which in time past has wrought such changes, and is 
yet gradually and more unperceivedly producing 
them ; where it has played all its frantic freaks, 
and then quietly left this spot with so few superim- 
posed materials, that well developed phenomena may 
be leisurly examined. 

My design is first to give a general view of the rocks 
of Oregon — then state a few facts in the form of re- 
marks or descriptions — and then add a brief catalogue 
of minerals found in this territory. 

Commencing far east on well explored geological 
ground, it is known, that near the line dividing the 
New England States from the Middle States, in a 
westward direction, we enter upon the great deposite 
of silurean, and other secondary rocks. To the fer- 
tilizing strata of these rocks, the best part of New 
York, and the vast garden of the western prairies, owe 
their richness and luxuriance. Passing still farther 
westward to regions less explored by the scientific 






GEOLOGY. 331 

world, after leaving the great secondary valley of the 
Mississippi, near the Black Hills, which are a range of 
lesser mountains, east of the Rocky Mountains, the 
geologist begins to find rocks of the Carboniferous 
Group, obscurely manifest beneath the deep soil, and 
anthracite coal in loose fragments on the banks of 
streams running into the Platte. Among and beyond 
the Black Hills, the carboniferous strata are clearly 
seen, the coal "cropping out" and presenting precisely 
the same features as did the Wilksbarre beds in Penn- 
sylvania, when I saw them before they were worked. 
Here, for several days, we rode over rocks, inter- 
spersed now and then with anthracite, and having 
marks of the presence of iron, as is usual in regular 
coal deposits. 

Passing this, the geologist next reaches another 
group either the upper secondary, or more recent 
rocks, lying at the .foot of the Rocky Mountains. I 
was inclined to believe, from the fact that I was appa- 
rently geologically rising, as well as really ascending 
above the level of the ocean, that they were the lat- 
ter. Red Shale, and sandstone, I found in what are 
termed the Red Butes. Perhaps this is New Red 
Sandstone. 

Reaching the Rocky Mountains, which are a con- 
tinuation of the Andes, depressed in Mexico, Granite 
becomes abundant, and other primary rocks, extend- 
ing to an unknown distance north and south, and more 
than a hundred miles east and west. This section, 
mostly covered with perpetual snow, affords am- 
ple space for the study of glacial geological action, 
a subject now eliciting much attention. The valley 
through which we passed, remarkably indicates the 
overruling hand of Providence, in providing an easy 



332 GEOLOGY. 

pass, where no serious obstacle presents itself to the 
construction of a rail-road. This and other valleys 
would undoubtedly, with facilities for observation, 
give equal opportunities to discover the formation of 
this vast chain, as has been done in regard to the great 
rocky ranges of the Eastern Continent. 

Advancing westward, and emerging from the Rocky 
Mountains, there is found immediately at their base 
Secondary Rocks ; but as we are approaching the 
borders of one of the great volcanic furnaces of the 
world, they are much broken and tilted up, presenting 
some singular phenomena, which I have mentioned in 
the journal, such as the formation of narrow ridges with 
the strata at different angles. In some places these 
dyke-like ridges are nearly regular in size and distance, 
as though cracked by an upheaving force, and the fis- 
sures filled afterwards with earth ; and in other places 
existing in wedge-form masses, interspersed between 
other rocks and having other varieties of dislocation. 
The lithological character of the tract over which we 
rode for two days, corresponds with that of the new 
red sandstone of the valley of the Connecticut. There 
are deposits both of the red and slaty colored strata — « 
and their depth seems to be quite great, as is evinced 
by bluffs. But, as I observed no organic remains, my 
inclination to believe that these rocks are the new red 
sandstone, is founded only on their mineral character, 
and the fact, a very important one, that they appear 
directly to underlay the saliferous rocks, or to lie im- 
mediately above them. Should these rocks which are 
quite extensive, prove to be new red sandstone, it adds 
no little to the interest of the geology of a country so 
rich in other respects. Perhaps as red rocks of the 
same kind lie on each side of the Rocky Mountains, it 



GEOLOGY. 333 

may be proved hereafter, that the range was elevated 
through a deposit of shale or new red sandstone. 

Directly after leaving the red sandstone, and pass- 
ing a belt of volcanic operations, which also are found 
among the red and slaty rocks just described, (as will 
be seen by reference to the Trois Tetons, the Butes, 
and other conical mountains, as exhibited on the map,) 
Saliferous Rocks are seen. Here is Native Salt, Chlo- 
ride of Sodium ; and red, green, brown, and white 
strata of indurated marl, agreeing in character with 
the geological features of the Bochnia and Wieliezka 
mines of Poland. These rocks also occupy quite a 
tract of country, as we were several days in passing 
them, and they seemed to reach both north and south 
of the locality of rock salt, as is proved by the exis- 
tence of the great Salt Lake at the south ; and tra- 
velers assert that native rock salt is found to the north, 
and especially far to the south, near the Rocky Moun- 
tain range. # 

We have now arrived at Oregon proper, and find it 
a vast amphitheatre of volcanic operations, where are 
exhibited in unexcelled magnificence, variety and dis- 
tinctness, the productions of several periods. 

The Greenstone, found in connexion with the new 
red sandstone and saline rocks, undoubtedly belongs 
to the same period as that of other countries. 

The Columnar Basalt, corresponding, as it does, 
with other similar eruptions in the eastern world, 
is probably cotemporaneous with them. The same 
identity of time may be traced in regard to the tra- 
chyte, obsidian, clinkstone or phonolite, and other 



*See Ures' Geology, page 373, and Professor Rogers' Report to the 
British Geological Association, 



334 GEOLOGY. 

products, after allowing for difference of circumstances 
of pressure, and rapidity of refrigeration. Recent 
eruptions have also taken place. 

The traces of igneous action, commencing near the 
Rocky Mountains, or mountains adjacent to them, in 
the secondary rocks, are evinced by the disturbed state 
of these rocks, as already described, and grow more 
and more evident, until almost the whole region exhi- 
bits volcanic products. In other places, the Primary 
of the Rocky Mountains, or mountains west of this 
range, first begins to be cracked and injected with 
dykes, then farther west terminates in the vast volcanic 
fields of upper and lower Oregon. 

It is vain to attempt fully to describe the volcanic 
operations here presented. Mountains of amygdaloid, 
the cavities of which are mostly vacant ; volcanic con- 
glomerate, detritus, columnar basalt, and disintegrated 
lava, every where abound, together with other less fre- 
quent productions ; obsidian, clinkstone, pitchstone, 
and minerals found in the cavities of amygdaloid. The 
tops of hills and mountains are sometimes spread 
out into horizontal plains ; others terminate in conical 
peaks, or are rounded like domes. Escarpments are 
frequently presented like that in the plate heading this 
chapter. Regular craters, presenting themselves in 
the forms of cones, concaves, and concave depress- 
ions, are often found in plains, or capping the summits of 
mountains ; most of them, however, are more or less ob- 
scured by the lapse of time, but still as marked as the 
extinct craters of the Sandwich Islands. The marked 
volcanic agency, manifesting itself in these and similar 
products, and completely occupying most of the coun- 
try which we have termed upper and lower Oregon, 
continues to be evident until lost in the waters of the 






GEOLOGY. 335 

Pacific. In some places the Primary rocks seem again 
to be found on the western coast. Queen Charlotte's 
Island, on the north, is, at least in part, primary. Pri- 
mary rocks rise in various parts of the country, and are 
like islands in the vast volcanic field. Such are the 
Salmon river mountains, and the granite and carbonate 
of lime near the Spokein river and other places. Near 
the mouth of the Columbia, I noticed a few Tertiary 
rocks, lying in situ, and obtained a few shells belonging 
to this deposit. Whether there is on the North-west 
Coast a regular Tertiary basin, partly on shore, and the 
remainder under the ocean, remains to be determined. 
We have thus glanced at the rocks of Oregon as we 
pass westward. In relation to their extent in a north- 
erly and southerly direction, I am unable to say much. 
There is evidence that igneous action has extended 
from Queen Charlotte's Island to California. I have 
already remarked on the extent of the Saliferous rocks. 
That they extend from north of the locality where I 
found native salt, south into Mexico, appears quite cer- 
tain. 

Having remarked thus much in general terms, I will 
proceed to give a few facts without much order, some, 
if not all of which, might have been included in my 
description of the great changes in the rocks. 

The plate at the head of this chapter demands a 
more definite explanation than has been given in for- 
mer editions. It substantially represents frequent es- 
carpments of volcanic rocks, such as are found in 
nearly every part of Oregon. 

The place designed to be represented by it, is below 
the junction of the Coos-coots-ke with the Lewis river. 
With some variations, it is applicable to a mural es- 



336 GEOLOGY. 

carpment several miles below the Cascades, on the Co- 
lumbia. Similar mural escarpments are found in the 
Spokein country, and at the Grand Coule, or ancient 
bed of the Columbia. The needle-points in the right 
of the plate, are found most distinctly marked about 
and just below the Cascades, though they occur at nu- 
merous other places. Indeed, this is not an unfrequent 
form of basalt west of the Rocky Mountains. 

The first strata marked in the plate, above what is 
intended for the shore of the river, is irregular massive 
amygdaloid. In some localities similar to that from 
which the plate is taken, there is found a conglome- 
rate underlaying this strata. The next, or second 
strata of the plate, is volcanic breccia or conglomerate, 
composed of detritus, and angular fragments mixed 
with earthy matter, and is perhaps what some call vol- 
canic tufa. This brecciated layer is more or less hard 
and compact, varying however very much in different 
localities, and is in all cases only a few feet thick. 
The third strata is columnar basalt, regularly crystal- 
ized in pentagons about two feet in diameter. In other 
places they vary in size from one to four or more feet 
in diameter. It is, in all the localities where I noticed 
it, closely jointed, with the convex surface upwards, 
like the basalt of the Giant's Causeway. The fourth is 
a brecciated layer. The fifth on the left, is columnar 
basalt, and on the" right, amygdaloid in juxtaposition 
with the basalt. The sixth is a brecciated la$lr. 
The seventh and uppermost is a semi-crystalized ba- 
salt on the left, and the needle-pointed basalt on the 
right. The semi-crystalized basalt very nearly re- 
sembles the Palisades on the Hudson River, and the 
greenstone of East and West Rocks at New Haven t 
and the more distinct crvstals found in Mt. Tom and 



GEOLOGY. 337 

Mt. Holyoke. For the latter see Hitchcock's Geo. 1st 
ed. page 73. 

In a description of bluffs and banks of rivers, where 
there are mural escarpments similar to that from 
which the plate is taken, I have numbered from ten 
to twenty strata of amygdaloid, basalt, and breeci- 
ated layers, which appear to have been thrown up in 
different periods, through craters, fissures or chasms, 
rising in succession one above another. In some lo- 
cations the lowest formation is pudding stone ; on this 
amygdaloid, varying in thickness from a few feet to 
twenty or thirty ; and then above this a stratum of an- 
gular fragments of basalt and amygdaloid, frequently 
intermixed with lava, which I have termed the brec- 
ciated layer. This strata generally appears to have 
been exposed for a period to atmospheric agencies, 
until in some degree decomposed, and upon this the 
alternating strata as described above, indicating so 
many different eruptions ; the whole series rising from 
fifty to several hundred feet. The brecciated layers 
are only a few feet in depth, and appear to have been 
for a long period the surface, after which a new erup- 
tion has again overspread the whole. In one section 
of the high walls of the Grand Coule, far up the sides, 
instead of the breccia is presented a depth of yellow 
earth of six or eight feet, and above this several strata 
of basalt and amygdaloid, as above described, in like 
manner exhibiting proof that this section for a time 
constituted the surface. Thus it appears that the in- 
ternal fires have had intervals of repose, and then have 
again sent forth their volcanic substances. The pro- 
bability is, that they were thus in operation for centu- 
ries, but with a few exceptions, have ceased for cen- 
turies past, so that time has been given for atmospheric 
15 



338 GEOLOGY. 

agencies to decompose the volcanic productions, suf- 
ficiently to form a soil covering most parts of the 
country. The inquiry naturally arises, whether it may 
not be in part on account of the great internal fires of 
this country, that the temperature is so much warmer 
on the west side of the mountains than on the east ; 
for it is an interesting fact, that the eastern side of 
North America, in given parallels of latitude, is the 
coldest, while tho western in the same parallels, is the 
warmest part of the world. And may not this arise, 
in part at least, from the comparative recency, as well 
as extent and depth of the volcanic operations, which 
have pervaded this whole region?* The length of 
time, during which immense masses of lava and other 
volcanic matter retain heat, is well known, and needs 
no remark. 

Among other localities of columnar basalt, the col- 
umns of which are regular crystalized pentagons, a 
distinguished one is on the high lands dividing the wa- 
ters of the Snake and Spokein rivers. The formations 
of this locality have many interesting characteristics, 
as described on page 294. Another below the Cas- 
cades of the Columbia, where the regular pentagonal 
columns wall up the north side for the distance of half 
a mile. Here are also found all the varieties of volca- 
nic productions ; — volcanic peaks, as diversified in 
their forms as they are numerous, being conical, den- 
ticulated, and needle-pointed ; varying in magnitudes, 
and rising one above another from ten feet to fifteen 

* By reference to the annexed meteorological table it will be seen, 
from observations taken between the 45th and 46th degrees of north 
latitude, that in the winter of 1335-6, the greatest cold was but 10° 
below the freezing point, and this for three mornings only — and during 
the month of March, there were but two mornings in which there was 
aDy frost. 



GEOLOGY. 339 

hundred feet. These occur almost entirely upon the 
south side of the river. There are also numerous 
islands of basalt in the Columbia river and its branches, 
elevated often much above high freshet water. These 
are numerous in the La Dalles, and in the ancient bed 
of the Columbia, or Grand Coule. These Islands are 
the same in form and substance as the dykes which ex- 
ist in various parts of the country. There is some- 
thing similar to these Needles in what I have termed 
the Pillars, where one or two such needles occur alone, 
and rise some hundred feet. They are basalt, and so 
hard and comparatively smooth, that I can account in 
no other way for their production, than that they are 
dykes, which have been injected into soft rock, or soil, 
which has since been removed by other agencies. 
The most remarkable instance of this is the Pillar 
Rock at the lower part of the rapids, below the Cas- 
cades, at the head of the tide water of the Columbia. 
It is about five hundred feet high ; and is perpendicu- 
lar on the river side, and nearly so on the other sides ; 
and is wholly isolated upon a narrow strip of bottom 
land, with a small base, and its appearance resembles 
a vast monument. Another such needle is found in 
the river near the mouth of the Columbia, and stand- 
ing alone it makes a very conspicuous object. 

Another result of volcanic agency is seen in the Pri- 
mary rocks, in which are cracks or fissures, through 
which gaseous products have escaped, without forming 
a crater, and indeed without ejecting any igneous solid 
matter. One locality of this kind presents a result 
somewhat peculiar. It is on elevated land near the 
Spokein river, where there are hundreds of regular 
cones, varying from a few feet in diameter and height, 
to a hundred or more in diameter at their base, and 



340 GEOLOGY. 

fifty ox sixty feet high. They are made up of angular 
fragments of granite, from an inch to six or eight 
inches in size, and stand on a sandy plain now sparsely 
covered with yellow pine, apparently disturbed only 
at the places where these cones have broken through 
it. At a short distance south is granite in situ. Near 
these cones there is a large dyke, visible a hundred 
rods or more, the only other evidence of a disturbing 
force. These piles of fragments seem to have been 
made by the escape of steam or gas ; for they appear 
as if smoked by a fire from within the cones. The 
Salmon river mountains afford another example similar 
to this. An irregular circular space of a hundred 
acres or more, is covered with immense quantities of 
granite broken into cubical and angular fragments, as 
though prepared for Macadamizing the future turn- 
pikes of Oregon. 

These mountains, though mere islands of granite and 
mica slate in the great volcanic field, are quite exten- 
sive, and in addition to the breaking up of the granite 
by igneous forces, they are also perforated by vents or 
chimneys, through which lava has escaped. One of 
the highest points of the mountains which lay in my 
route was of this sort. It is a granite mountain, with 
the top capped by a volcanic cone, rising like an im- 
mense pyramid. The passage in some places of gra- 
nite into basalt, is easily traced, and the first igneous 
appearance is not a change of the structure, but multi- 
plied fractures increase until you find the granite bro- 
ken into large fragments ; and these diminishing in 
size, until they disappear in the distinct characteris- 
tics of volcanic agency, in which it is changed into 
a substance resembling trachyte, if it has not become 
trachyte itself, while in situ. Smaller sections of gra- 



GEOLOGY. 341 

nite are scattered over the country in forms of less di- 
mensions, protruding from the earth ; but these are of 
somewhat rare occurrence. 

We have said that recent igneous action has taken, 
place. A well authenticated instance occurred in Au- 
gust, 1831. There was at this time at Fort Vancou- 
ver and vicinity, an uncommonly dark day, which was 
thought to have been caused by an eruption of a vol- 
cano. The whole day was nearly as dark as night, 
except a slight red, lurid appearance, which was per- 
ceptible until near night. Lighted candles were ne- 
cessary through the day. The atmosphere was filled 
with ashes, which were very light, like the white ashes 
of wood ; all having the appearance of being produced 
by great fires, and yet none were known to have been 
in any part of the whole region around. The day was 
perfectly calm, without any wind. For a few days 
after, the fires out of doors were noticed to burn with 
a bluish flame, as though mixed with sulphur. There 
were no earthquakes. By observations which were 
made after the atmosphere became clear, it was thought 
the pure, white, perpetual snow upon Mount St. He- 
lens was discolored, presenting a brown appearance, 
and therefore it was concluded, that there had been 
upon it a slight eruption.* The Indians say they have 
seen fires in the chasms of Mount Hood. Tilki, the 
first chief of the La Dalles Indians, who is a man of 
more than ordinary talents, said he had frequently seen 
fires in the fissures of rocks in the last named moun- 
tains.! 

* This was the opinion of Doct. Gardner, a distinguished naturalist, 
from Eaglaad, who was present at the time. 

t Since the publication of the above in other editions, I have been 
credibly informed that lava was ejected at that time from Mouut St. 
Helen. 



342 GEOLOGY. 

Though I have improved every opportunity which 
has been presented to make observations, and have 
also made many enquiries of men who have traveled 
extensively and for a long time in different parts of 
this country, some of whom are men of science, yet no 
evidence of fossil remains have been noticed, with the 
exception of a very few specimens. I saw a small 
shell, a Turritella, which was found in a mountain 
south of Mount Hood in the Callapooa country. Also 
a few miles up the Columbia river, on the south shore 
of the bay, I found some very large petrified bivalve 
shells, embedded in calcarious sandstone of the Ter- 
tiary formation. The largest specimens which I took, 
measure, longitudinally, four and a half inches from 
the hinge, and transversely, five. They are very 
perfect, beautifully scalloped, and have all the lustre 
of living shells. To these I must add three locations 
of petrified wood. The first is silicious which I found 
in the cavity of an extinct crater in the eastern part of 
Oregon, near a branch of the Salmon river. The next, 
at the Cascades, dendrolites of various magnitudes 
and descriptions, some presenting the appearance of 
mineral coal. The third location is upon the north 
branch of the Columbia, near the lower part of the 
Grand Coule, more silicious than those about the 
Cascades. 

Since the channel of the Columbia, in many parts, 
is walled up on its sides, and studded with islands of 
basaltic rocks, rising in perpendicular height from 
twenty to four hundred feet ; the question forces itself 
upon the mind, what agency formed the channel of the 
Columbia and other rivers in this country, flowing 
through ridges and mountains of hard basalt ? Un- 
doubtedly the action of water has worn the rock very 



GEOLOGY. 343 

considerably and effected changes, but perhaps by no 
principle of its action can it be supposed that it has 
produced so long and so deep a channel, as the one 
through which the river flows, and through such solid 
rock formations, differing but little from iron in hard- 
ness. That the channels of rivers owe their existence 
to other causes than the action of water is no new 
idea. Indeed very many are now described as formed 
otherwise. In relation to the channels of the Connec- 
ticut river and its branches, see Prof. Hitchcock's Geo. 
page 167, 1st edit. While I believe that Providence 
operates by means, yet I doubt not there are pheno- 
mena which are, and ever may remain unresolved. 
While conversing in relation to the channel of the Co- 
lumbia with some literary gentlemen who had fre- 
quently passed up and down this river, after several 
theories were proposed, none of which could bear the 
test even of probability, one of them remarked, he had 
been reminded of his boyish sports, when he had 
dammed up water, and then with his fingers drawn 
a channel through the sand for the water to run ; so it 
seemed to him that God had drawn a channel ibr the 
Columbia. 

If we do not keep in view the overruling hand of 
God as a landmark in our investigations, but look to 
"nature" alone, at work in her great laboratory, the 
earth, as our only guide, to teach us precisely how the 
earth was formed, we shall, at least, be in danger of 
wandering into mazes from which we shall not be able 
easily to extricate ourselves. 

The condition of the country on the western side of 
the Rocky Mountains, differing in almost every par- 
ticular from that on the eastern side, may render the 
common assumption doubtful, that different genera 



344 GEOLOGY. 

and species of plants and animals, designate distinct 
formations and distinct periods of time, in which such 
formations took place. And if it was known to be 
true, that the same genera and species of animals and 
plants had their existence in the same period of time, 
in all countries of the same climate, or in correspond- 
ing latitudes, then the age of different formations 
might be better known by fossil remains. But it is a 
fact, that the genera and species of animals and .plants 
may differ widely and materially in the same country, 
age, and latitude. This is now the case in North 
America, on the east and west sides of the Rocky 
Mountains ; which gives us a view and shows what 
may be the truth in relation to regions of the earth, 
perhaps regarded as belonging to different periods, 
though in fact contemporaneous. Yet in all such 
cases, marks of isochronism, or the want of it, doubt- 
less could be found, and with proper care would con- 
vince the experienced geologist of % their diversity or 
identity in time. 

Compare the two sides of North America as they 
now are, and notice the difference which exists in ani- 
mals and productions. Let now the whole of the north- 
ern part of this continent be submerged, and after a 
long time be again elevated to its present position, and 
let future generations examine its fossil remains, and 
by the rules very generally laid down, would they not 
be liable hastily to conclude that the section on the east 
side, and that on the west side of the mountains, indi- 
cate two different periods of submersion, and that 
there was a long intermediate period of tranquility be- 
tween them ? Would not the different genera and 
species of vegetables and animals lead to this conclu- 
sion ? Would they not, from the evident difference 



GEOLOGY. 345 

of temperature of climate in the same latitudes on the 
east and on the west, conclude, (if there was not a 
careful search made for other marks to show disparity 
or identity of time,) that the western section was sub- 
merged, at a period when the earth was much warmer 
than at the period when the eastern section was sub- 
merged ? This would be a rational and legitimate 
conclusion from the rule that in strata of the same 
class, dissimilar organic remains belong to a different 
period of time, and were deposited under a different 
condition of the globe. And the gigantic balsam firs 
found in the west and not found in the east, would as 
clearly prove a different climate in the same latitude, 
and therefore a different period of submersion, as the 
gigantic ferns prove a different temperature of the 
earth, and of course a different period of time, in which 
they were deposited. 

On the west side, the enormous balsam firs, mea- 
suring from five to eight feet in diameter, and between 
one and two hundred feet in height, would be found 
so numerous as to constitute whole forests ; and also 
the alder of various diameters, from the small to those 
of one foot in diameter, and proportionably tall ; and 
the rush varying from four to ten feet long, and pro- 
portionably large ; while the fir, the alder, and rush, 
found on the east side, would be mere dwarfs in com- 
parison with those on the west, and also very sparse. 
And many genera of trees and plants would be found 
on one side, which would not be found on the other. 
On the west there would be no walnut, chestnut, sugar 
maple, elm, and many other kinds of trees. And of 
animals, there would not be found any of the present 
fossils of the east ; nor the ox, the ass, the swine, nor 
common sheep — the buffalo would be found east and 
15* 



346 GEOLOGY. 

in the mountains, but not numerous beyond. To what 
strange conclusions, without great care and close ex- 
amination, should we come, if such data simply were 
received ! If such is now the difference of vegetables 
and animals, between the country on the east, and the 
country on the west of our continent, and in the same 
latitude, may not mistakes be made in regard to dif- 
ferent formations, and different periods of time in which 
they have taken place ? Especially when periods are 
so remote, and the minute exploration of the earth 
confined to so small limits ? 

No doubts need be indulged, but that such advances 
may and will be made in the science of geology, that it 
will become one of the strong corroborating evidences 
of the inspiration of the scriptures, without departing 
form the obvious meaning of any part of the inspired 
language. The books of nature, of providence, and of 
revelation harmonize ; and it is owing to our darkened 
and limited understandings, and the imperfections of 
our knowledge, that we have any difficulty in seeing 
their harmony ; and the more correct knowledge we 
gain of them, the more we shall see and admire their 
coincidence. 

Far the greatest part of the soil of Oregon is formed 
from decomposed lava and other like substances, re- 
duced by atmospheric agencies, which forms a fine 
rich, black mould. Some parts, however, are in a dif- 
ferent condition ; such as the great desert of the Sho- 
shones or Snake country, which lies between two 
ranges of mountains, and extends three hundred or 
more miles in a southeasterly direction, with an ave- 
rage width of about one hundred miles. This desert, 
occupying as it does so many square miles, is to a 
great extent covered with scoria and other volcanic 



GEOLOGY. 347 

matter, which from their nature, renders it a barren 
region. Other tracts of country are argillaceous. In 
several localities escarpments' of clay diversified in 
structure, are presented. The layers are from a few 
inches to twenty feet in thickness. Their colors are 
dusky red, brown, blue, green, yellow, and in some in- 
stances pure white, and not unfrequently more or less 
indurated. Still, other tracts are calcarious ; and some 
parts especially near the Rocky Mountains, are co- 
vered with a silicious sand, mixed with volcanic detri- 
tus ; while few, and only few parts of the country af- 
ford vegetable mould. 

By reference to the map between Okanagan and 
Walla Walla, the dotted line, as will be seen, describes 
the Grand Coule. By some cause, probably volcanic, 
the Columbia has been turned from its ancient bed, 
and made to take a new and more circuitous course. 
The old channel has islands rising above what was 
once the level of the water ; and as previously men- 
tioned, high mural escarpments are found on its sides. 

Another fact worthy to be mentioned, is the subsi- 
dence on the Columbia. It is twenty or more miles 
long, and about a mile wide.* See page 142. 

What I suppose to be another subsidence occurs on 
the summit level which divides the waters of the Snake 
and Spokein rivers. See page 294. 

Rivers are found which disappear and again re-ap- 



*On a close and particular examination of this interesting phenomena, 
it is my decided opinion that there are too many absurdities attending 
the hypothesis, that this i.-; a land slide. How deep and large must 
have been the body of earth to have retained these forest trees in their 
natural erect position, and how very deep must have been the river to 
receive such a body of earth and trees, ten or twenty feet below low 
water mark. Aud besides there are no continuous ranges of mountains 
the whole di&tauce of the subsidence. 



348 GEOLOGY. 

pear from under volcanic products, which is no new 
phenomena in other volcanic countries. Two such 
rivers are put down on the map south of Henry's 
Fork. 

A few remarks on the minerals of Oregon will close 
this chapter. 

Limestone does not abound here ; indeed it is ques- 
tionable whether it exists except in very detached and 
small quantities. One location of magnesian limestone, 
I observed in the neighborhood of the Sulphur Spring, 
which I have already described. The lime used at 
Fort Vancouver, is made of rock coral, imported for 
ballast in vessels returning from the Sandwich Islands. 
In the vicinity of the Sulphur Spring was a quantity, 
though not very extensive, of gypsum. The only mar- 
ble {carbonate of lime) I noticed was in a mountain situ- 
ated a short distance below the confluence of the Spo- 
kein with the Columbia. In parts which I examined, 
I discovered it to be saccharine white, and variegated 
blue. A specimen of the first I have preserved. Sit- 
uated as it is on a navigable river, it will most probably 
become in time a source of wealth. It is associated 
with primitive rocks. 

In the region of Pierre's Hole, and still farther west, 
there is clinkstone of marked and distinctive character, 
in great abundance, and in the same vicinity obsidian 
in large quantities. Augite enters largely into almost 
all the volcanic productions. Obsidian is found in very 
many places throughout the country ; and towards the 
ocean in small quantities it is a resinous white. 

Lava is abundant in many places, in all the varieties 
of color in which it is usually found, sometimes dusky 
red, yellowish, gray, and black, of different degrees of 



1 



GEOLOGY. 349 

hardness and gravity, some being compact, some cel- 
lular, and often so light as to float upon water. Tra- 
chyte is also found among the varieties of lava. 

Most of the varieties of the precious stones, such as 
calcedony, agate, red and yellow jasper, cornelian, 
common opal, beautiful garnets, pyrites, and amethys- 
tic quartz, are found in different sections of the coun- 
try, but more frequently upon the shores of the Co- 
lumbia, Willamette, and the large branches of these 
rivers. While they vary in size, forms, and colors, 
many of them are very pure and beautiful, and might 
be improved to great brilliancy in the hands of the 
lapidary. Porphyry of different textures and quality 
is frequently met with, some of which resemble the 
precious stones in fineness. 

I saw no anthracite coal after leaving the region of 
the Black Hills on the east of the Rocky Mountains ; 
bituminous coal, of which I saw a quantity, is obtained 
from a locality near Puget's Sound, and brought for use 
to Vancouver. 

It is an interesting fact, that Mineral Rock Salt ex- 
ists in its native state, in a section of mountains on the 
south side of the Salmon river, before entering the 
Salmon river mountains. It crops out from the side 
of a mountain, a little above the base. I saw the mine 
and examined specimens of it, and took of it for future 
use. It is pure and white, and contains less of the wa- 
ter of crystalization than common salt. The geologi- 
cal formations in the immediate vicinity, so nearly re- 
semble those described in the neighborhood of the 
mineral salt mines of Poland, as to induce the belief 
that it exists in great abundance. It was peculiarly 
grateful to me in the circumstances in which I was 
placed, and the best testimony I can give to the qual- 



350 GEOLOGY. 

ity is, that I found it very useful when compelled to 
subsist on game. 

Salt is also found in a crystalized state upon the 
shores of the great Salt Lake, the waters of which are 
so strongly impregnated, that salt in large quantities 
can be easily made. How wise and kind is the dispo- 
sition of the products of nature, and how well adapted 
to the wants of all his creatures has the hand of a be- 
neficent Father distributed his blessings ; and here, at 
so great a remove from all the facilities of commerce, 
He has laid up in store one of the most necessary and 
important articles of domestic use. 

Mineral springs have also been discovered. The 
most remarkable are, the Soda fountain on Bear river, 
about forty-five miles north of Salt Lake, remarkable 
for the quantity of carbonic acid gas which is evolved, 
but not having been analyzed, its particular mineral 
properties are not ascertained, and the general remark 
only can be made, that it greatly resembles the Sara- 
toga waters ; the Sulphur Spring to the south of the 
Trois Tetons, on a branch of Henry's fork, around 
which large quantities of pure sulphur are deposited, 
and from which sulphureted hydrogen escapes, and its 
annoying properties are perceptible more than eighty 
rods distant. Springs evolving gasses seem not un- 
frequent ; — and the hot springs in the great range of 
the Rocky Mountains, some of which are said to fur- 
nish the mountain men a convenient place to boil their 
food. 

Sulphate of magnesia, (epsom salts,) purely native, 
exists in immense quantities in and on both sides of the 
mountains. Lakes or pools, which the heat of sum- 
mer principally evaporates, abound in this region, ex- 
hibiting crystalized salts in great quantities. Spicular 



GEOLOGY. 351 

crystals of the same salt shoot up on the surface of the 
ground, and effloresce to such a degree as to present 
the appearance of fields whitened with snow. 

No indications of Metalic Ores have yet been no- 
ticed in any part of Oregon Territory ; and probably 
when metals are found, they will not be in their oxyds, 
but reduced by the intense volcanic heat to their mas- 
sive state. 

If metals are abundant, they probably lie near the 
Rocky Mountains, or in the northern part of Oregon. 
Beautiful crystals of sulphuret of iron are found on 
Queen Charlotte's Island ; some of which contain traces 
of the precious metals. I have a specimen of an ore, 
as yet undetermined, from this island. 

The Oregon is a country rich in geological features, 
and will yet unfold its treasures to the scientific world, 
in all their fulness. No country, probably, can be 
found so marked by sudden and sublime changes ; 
from the oldest granite to the recent rocks ; from old 
to new, and from new to the old. While in every di- 
rection all is pierced, in a thousand ways, by the power 
of internal heat, exhibiting manifold and surprising re- 
sults. 



352 GENERAL REMARKS. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

General remarks— passage in the steam-ship Beaver down the river — 
take passage on board the barque Columbia — detention in Chenook 
bay — great cave — -Codfish, the first ever taken in this bay. 

Having explored the most important parts of this 
territory, and gained all the information within my 
reach, as to the several objects proposed in my in- 
structions from the Board of Foreign Missions ; and 
especially having ascertained to my entire satisfaction 
two most prominent facts, namely, the entire practica- 
bility of penetrating with safety to any and every 
portion of the vast interior, and the disposition of the 
natives in regard to my mission among them, it re- 
mained that the most feasible and expeditious mode of 
returning should next be consulted. I could expect to 
acquire but little additional knowledge in traversing 
the route to Rendezvous ; and the necessary delay of 
several months, it seemed could be avoided by a return 
by water. The Hudson Bay Company were about to 
send a ship to the Sandwich Islands, in which I was 
kindly offered a gratuitous passage. On the other 
hand, my friendship with gentlemen of this establish- 
ment, my regard for the spiritual welfare of the be- 
nighted men, for whose good, I had for many a weary 
day pursued my object over mountains and plains, 
hills and valleys, through all the vicissitudes of climate 
and weather ; and especially a desire to see in this 
whitened field, the returning laborers I expected, and 
to be able to give them personally, instead of by letter, 



REFLECTIONS. 353 

the result of my collected information, as a guide to 
them in their incipient labors ; all these held me rivet- 
ed to the spot, and undecided as to my course. At 
length after a consultation with my most judicious 
friends, I concluded to take passage in the barque Co- 
lumbia for Oahu, in the hope that an early opportunity 
would present to return to the United States. 

In taking leave of this country and the work in 
which I have so long been engaged, a train of reflec- 
tions crowded upon my mind. The future condition of 
this noble race of men, is a subject of interesting en- 
quiry to many others as well as to myself. Whether the 
Indians are to pass away before the increasing power 
and numbers of white men, or whether enlightened 
and improved by their philanthropy, they shall arise 
in the scale of intellectual and moral existence, is a 
problem which time alone can solve, i entered on the 
work of exploring this field with no bias or precon- 
ceived opinion, and from critical and personal observa- 
tion, I hesitate not to say, that I can see no reason 
existing in the nature of things, or in their present 
condition, which necessarily dooms the race to anni- 
hilation on the one hand, or on the other, necessarily 
makes them " objects of apprehension, as the future 
hordes who shall in coming time, like the northern 
barbarians of Roman days, be reserved as the scourge 
of an overgrown and decaying republic." If to do good 
be an object worthy of humanity or religion, I see not 
why a consistent and persevering attempt to raise a 
race of freemen from their depression, and to place 
them in the rank of intelligent men, be not an under- 
taking fraught with as much promise and encourage- 
ment, as it was in earlier days to elevate our ancestors. 
In favor of this opinion, we have the docility of the 



354 REFLECTIONS. 

Indians in every thing pertaining to their improvement ; 
in the sprightliness of their youth and children ; and 
in the amiableness of their native tempers and dispo- 
sitions. I take nothing of this upon testimony. In all 
my intercourse with them, I saw, with only one ex- 
ception, no angry or malevolent passions in exercise in 
their little communities. 

I tremble for the consequences, when I reflect on the 
wrongs inflicted upon this race of men. Able pens 
have portrayed in vivid colors, their injuries and abu- 
ses, and humanity has wept. Were but the one hun- 
dredth part spread out to view, we should recoil at the 
sight. The life of an Indian, in the estimation of our 
border and refugee men who visit their country, is 
nothing worth. Theirs is a land where white men re- 
gard no law ; but superior cunning and superior force 
bear rule. It Was related to me that Captain S. an 
English officer in half pay, while traveling through the 
Indian country, lost a horse which he highly valued, 
and believing it to be stolen by an Indian, offered five 
hundred dollars for his head. One of a lawless band, 
a half Indian who was present, went in pursuit, and re- 
turned with the head of the person charged with the 
theft, and demanded his reward. To make out the sum 
Captain S. gave him two horses, calling each 8250. 
Thus ended the affair. Mr. Wyeth, in a memoir, em- 
bodied in a Report of a Committee of Congress, on the 
Oregon question, says, " The preponderance of bad 
character is so great amongst traders and their people, 
that crime carries with it little or no shame. I have 
heard it related among white American trappers, as 
a good joke, that a trapper who had said he would 
shoot any Indian, whom he could catch stealing his 
traps, was seen one morning to kill one ; and, on being 



DEPARTURE FOR THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. 355 

asked if the Indian had stolen his traps, he answered 
'No, but he looked as if he was going to.' " These are 
only specimens. 

I have been much pleased to notice among the be- 
nevolent operations of the present day, the formation 
of a society in England, which I regard as among not 
the least benevolent, viz : " An Aborigines Protection 
Society," from whose " Plan and Objects," I quote, as 
expressing very fully my own sentiments. " Among 
these tribes, our imported diseases produce frightful 
ravages, our ardent spirits deprave and consume their 
population, our unjust laws exclude them from enjoy- 
ing that first element of well-ordered societies, judicial 
protection, as well as from the possibility of a timely 
incorporation with colonial communities ; while, in ad- 
dition to all these evils, our neglect of suitable means 
arid methods of improvement, prevents that adoption 
of civilized manners and customs to which they are in- 
clined. It is impossible for us as men, patriots, phi- 
lanthropists, or Christians, to behold without anxiety, 
the ruin of the people whom we are accessary in 
supplanting, unless our future modes of colonization 
be directed with greater humanity and wisdom than 
in times past." 

On the 18th of June, according to previous arrange- 
ments, I took passage in the steam-ship Beaver for 
Fort George, to join the barque Columbia for the Sand- 
wich Islands. As the Beaver was commencing her 
first voyage upon the Pacific, under the power of 
steam, destined for the northwest coast, the people of 
the fort, and those residing around, assembled upon 
the shore of the Columbia, and as she moved majesti- 
cally from her anchorage, they saluted us with cheers, 
which were reciprocated by all on board, and they re- 



356 GREAT CAVE. 

sponded, " A happy voyage, a prosperous voyage." 
The ship anchored at night a little above Tongue 
Point ; and the next day, after being detained upon a 
sand bar, from which the tide after awhile set us free, 
we arrived at Fort George. The next day, the 20th, 
with my friend Mr. Finlayson, and a few others I took 
a ramble on the shores below. The verdure of the 
trees and plants, the red indigenous clover in full 
sweetness in the desert, and the mildness of the sea- 
son, all combined to make the scene enchanting. It 
was on the shore of this bay where I collected the 
large bivalve shell petrifactions, embedded in calca- 
rious sandstone of the Tertiary formation as described 
in the chapter foregoing. No volcanic appearances 
were visible in the immediate vicinity. 

On the 21st, I embarked on board the Columbia, and 
we dropped down to the Chenook Bay and anchored 
just above Cape Disappointment. Here, for the want 
of favorable wind and tide, we were detained until the 
28th. While we continued here, I made several ex- 
cursions on. shore ; ascended the cape, which is pro- 
bably about four hundred feet high, and from which a 
fine prospect of the Pacific and its shores is presented 
as far as the eye can reach. The shore is generally 
bold and rocky, furnishing no other harbor near. The 
country around is rocky and densely covered with 
forests, and the scenery is wild. Near the shore, on 
the west end of the cape, a large cave extends into 
the volcanic rocks the distance of one hundred and 
fifty feet. We penetrated into its gloomy recesses, 
and from the bones of animals strewed around within, 
we concluded it must be the retreat of some of those 
beasts of prey which inhabit these forests and coasts. 

About the cape, at different places, grow the large 



CODFISH. 357 

orange-yellow raspberries, of a new species, upon 
shrubberry which often grows to the height of twenty 
feet, and more generally in the forests than in the open 
places, but equally fruitful. They are more inviting to 
the eye than agreeable to the taste. 

While we were detained here, our men belonging 
to the Columbia caught a large number of codfish. In 
taste and appearance, they very much resemble those 
taken upon the banks of Newfoundland, excepting they 
are a little shorter. This is the first time they were 
known to exist in these waters ; the Indians knew 
nothing of them before, and they eagerly took those 
we did not need. 



358 VOYAGE TO OAHU. 



CHAPTER XXV. 

Departure for the Sandwich Islands — Arrival at the Islands — worship 
in the native church — description of Oahu — the Pari — the valley of 
Manoa — description of Honolulu — of Waititi — heathen temple — Eva 
— Waialua — Keneohe — mountains — salt lake natural productions — 
animals — government — tea party of the royal family — dinner to the 
officers of the Peacock and Enterprise — decrease of population — un- 
fair negotiations — foreign residents — charity school — seamen's chapel 
— burying place of the royal family — missionary success. 

On the 25th, the bar being smooth, with only a light 
wind, though ahead, and the tide favoring, the Beaver 
weighed anchor and put out to sea for her northern 
voyage. She went over the bar finely, and could have 
towed us over, but it being her first experiment, it was 
not thought advisable. 

On Tuesday, the 28th, the wind and tide were fa- 
vorable for passing the bar, and we set sail at half past 
three in the afternoon. There was a heavy rolling 
sea; and every man was at his post, one on each side 
of the ship constantly throwing the lead to take the 
sounding. Four fathoms and a half was the least, and 
this was little enough considering the heavy swell. 
The bar extends five miles out to sea, with a. channel 
only about a half mile wide, upon which, in the deepest 
parts, the water is only seven fathoms, and has a very 
bold termination ; for we passed from seven fathoms 
to no sounding, where the sea presented its dark blue. 
The land receded, and in a few hours disappeared ; 
and nothing was to be seen but one wide expanse of 



ARRIVAL AT OAHU. 359 

ocean. Our voyage to Oahu,* Sandwich Islands, was 
attended with nothing remarkable, excepting that it 
was performed in much shorter time than usual, being 
only sixteen days from the time we left the Columbia 
river, to our anchoring in the roads of Honolulu. We 
took our direct course, and kept it without any varia- 
tion, and with a few exceptions without shortening a 
sail, the distance of two thousand five hundred miles. 
An almost entire uniformity marked our progress, and 
excepting the common alternations of day and night, 
sunshine and clouds, nothing interrupted the monotony 
of the scene. 

On the morning of the 14th of July, land was an- 
nounced. The islands of Ranai and Morakai were 
near, and as we passed them, we had a near view of 
the latter. It is not so mountainous as most others of 
the group, and presented rather a sterile aspect. We 
soon after made Oahu, and passed on the east side 
around Diamond Hill to the harbor of Honolulu on the 
south. This harbor is the best and almost the only 
good one in any of the groups of the Polynesian Islands. 
The entrance is somewhat intricate, and an experi- 
enced pilot is required to take ships in safely. Within 
the coral reefs the water is sufficiently deep for ships 
of almost any magnitude ; and this, with the long ex- 
tended roads, without the reefs, which afford good an- 
chorage, renders the port desirable, and the island, in 
a commercial point of view, the most important of any 
in this part of the Pacific ocean. 

We went on shore, two o'clock in the afternoon, and 
I was invited by Rev. H. Bingham to his house, where 

"Pronounced Wauhoo. 



360 PUBLIC WORSHIP. 

I met several of the other missionaries, and felt much 
rejoiced to behold again a Christian community. 

The heat of a vertical sun was very oppressive and 
enervating, and was it not for the refreshing effects of 
the daily north-east trade winds, it would be insupport- 
able to a northern constitution. 

On Sabbath 17th, I attended worship in the native 
church, and heard Rev. Mr. Bingham preach in the 
Hawaiian language to a very large assembly of na- 
tives, probably two thousand five hundred, who gave 
very good attention. They were all decently dressed ; 
while some of them were in the European mode, the 
most of them were dressed in their native costume, 
and made a good appearance. Their conduct and at- 
tention were very becoming, and many listened with 
deep interest. Madam Kinau, the queen regent, and 
the royal family, were present ; and although it was 
easy to distinguish them from the common people, 
yet they made no ostentatious display of royalty. 
Their dress was rich, but plain, and they paid" sober 
attention to the worship of God. The performance of 
the singers was good, but there was not that melody 
in their voices which characterizes the Indians. 

The house of worship is large and commodious, one 
hundred and ninety feet long and sixty-two feet wide, 
built in the native style, with the roof and sides co- 
vered with thatch. 

Oahu is the most northern of the Sandwich Islands, 
situated in north latitude 21° 18' and in west longi- 
tude 158° 38'. Its greatest length is forty-five miles 
from Koka on the south east to Kakana on the north- 
west. The greatest portion of the island is on the 
north-east of this line. Its greatest breadth is twenty- 
eight miles from Kahuku on the north to (Laeloa Bar- 



DECISIVE BATTLE. 381 

ber's Point) on the south ; about four fifths of the island 
is on the east of this line. The island is very mountain- 
ous ; the highest eminence is called Honahuanui, and is 
a little over four thousand feet. The Pari, at the upper 
end of the valley of Nuuanu, north of Honolulu, may 
be counted among the curiosities of the island ; princi- 
pally on account of its being a part of the main road, 
or rather the only one to Keneohe. It is one thousand 
one hundred and forty feet above the level of the sea, 
and six hundred feet nearly perpendicular. This is 
to be clambered up and down in passing from Hono- 
lulu to Kenehoe, and to a stranger it is a fearful un- 
dertaking, as it is necessary to have a native to assist 
in putting your feet into the crevices of the rocks. 
And yet the natives pass up and down with their cala- 
bashes of poi, and their loads of melons, fish, and other 
commodities, without any difficulty more than fatigue. 

Some years ago, in a war between Tamehameha 
and the king of Oahu, the final battle w^as fought here 
w r hich decided the fate of the island. The king of 
Oahu made a desperate struggle ; and one part of his 
routed army, numbering more than three hundred, 
were pursued to this precipice, forced down, and al- 
most all were dashed to pieces. 

On each side of this pass, needle-pointed mountains 
rise up two thousand feet, forming a narrow chasm, 
through which the north-east trade winds rush with 
great violence. Before you, at the north, you have a« 
very pleasing view of the fertile valley of Kolou ; and 
beyond is a fine prospect of the bay and wide spread 
ocean. The valley between the Pari and Honolulu is 
seven miles long ; the upper part of which is narrow 
and very picturesque. Interesting cascades are seen 
dashing down the almost perpendicular mountains, and 
16 



362 VALLEY 0? WANOA. 

the whole scenery is covered with fresh foliage. This 
was almost the only place where the cool and invigo- 
rating breezes gave me relief from the oppressive heat. 
The lower part of the valley is wide, and covered to 
a great extent with taro patches. 

Taro is a bulbous plant of the genus arum, and is 
planted in hills upon patches of ground, so formed as 
to be partially flooded with water, somewhat after the 
manner of rice cultivation. In eight or ten months af- 
ter setting the plants, they are fit for use. To prepare 
it for food, it is always necessary to roast it, to take 
out the pungency which is common to this genus, as 
found in wild turnep. It is frequently eaten for bread 
with no other preparation except roasting ; or it is con- 
verted into poi by pulverising and making it into a stiff 
paste. The natives prefer the poi after it has under- 
gone the acetic fermentation. 

East of this valley is another called Manoa, about 
five miles in length, running north from Diamond Hill. 
It is well watered by streams descending from the 
mountains, formed by showers of rain which frequently 
fall upon them, and which sometimes extend to the 
valleys and plains. Its fertile soil is well cultivated 
with sweet potatoes, taro, and melons. At the upper 
end, Kaahumanu, the late queen regent, who died in 
1832, had a house built for retirement from the bustle 
of Honolulu, and for devotion, near a beautiful cool 
♦grove of ohia and kukui* trees, on an eminence com- 
manding a view of the valley below. Near this dwel- 
ling, she caused a house to be built for the accommo- 
dation of the missionaries, when they should wish for 



* The kukui tree bears a nut as large as a black walnut, a string of 
whwh is used for candles, and hence the tree is called the candle tree. 






HONOLULU. 363 

rest, and to be refreshed with the invigorating air of 
the mountains. The evidences of her Christian cha- 
racter were convincing. Her piety was active. She 
traveled through all the islands, from time to time, to 
see that the people attended upon the means of reli- 
gious instruction, and the schools ; and to recommend 
the religion of the Bible to all classes of her subjects. 
Her example, as well as her authority, was powerful 
in suppressing intemperance, and the many vices which 
threatened the ruin of her country. Her influence was 
felt not only by her own people, but also by foreigners 
who resorted to these islands. 

When I visited this spot of remembrances, the build- 
ings were far] gone to decay ; but not the cherished 
regard of her piety and philanthropy. This spot pre- 
sented a very pleasing view of the high and precipi- 
tous mountains around on every side, excepting the 
south, which is open and exhibits to view the gran- 
deur of the rolling ocean. The many cascades around 
upon the mountain sides added to the interest of the 
scenery. Among the variety of shrubbery, we found 
the coffee tree with its fruit in various stages of matu- 
rity ; the arrow root ; and the brake fern, growing in 
many instances, to the height of twenty feet. From a 
bulb, near the root, is taken what the natives call ha- 
puu, a silky down, which makes excellent beds and 
cushions. 

Honolulu is situated on the south side of the island, 
on a bay of the same name, and is the capital, and 
business place of all the islands. The land around, and 
on which the village is located is a dry barren, except- 
ing on the north and north-west, which is moist and 
cultivated with taro patches, with some cocoa trees in- 
terspersed. The buildings generally are in the native 



364 OLD HEATHEN TEMPLE. 

style, thatched ; many are built with doba walls after 
the Spanish manner on the coast of Mexico and Peru, 
that is, with large sun-burnt bricks, made about two 
feet long, eighteen inches wide, and ten inches thick. 
The clay is mixed with cut straw to strengthen them, 
after the manner of the ancient Egyptians. Their en- 
closures are often built in the same manner. There 
are several good buildings made of rock coral in En- 
glish style, some of which are spacious and well fin- 
ished. The village contains about nine thousand in- 
habitants, three hundred of whom are English and 
Americans. Most of the commercial business and 
trade are carried on by foreigners, to a large amount, 
increased by the resort of whale ships, in the fall and 
spring, for repairs and fresh supplies, particularly ve- 
getables ; it is the place where all other shipping touch 
which navigate this ocean from Europe and America, 
in the Chinese and East India trade. This place is 
constantly growing in importance, and must continue 
to do so from its local advantages. 

Four miles south-east of Honolulu, is the pleasant 
native village of Waititi, situated on the bay of the 
same name. It contains five or six hundred inhabi- 
tants, is situated in a beautiful grove of cocoa trees, 
which adds very much to its apearance and comfort. 
This place, if its cultivation was proportioned to the 
richness of the soil, might be made one of the most de- 
lightful spots on the island. 

The only road, or any thing that deserves the name 
of a road in this island, is between this place and Hono- 
lulu. 

About two miles east of this village are the remains 
of an old heathen temple, in which human sacrifices 
were offered ; a part of the walls of the enclosure are 



HEATHEN PRIEST. 365 

still standing. Various methods were employed to 
obtain victims. One of which was to lay a tabu upon 
all the people in the whole region around, that no one, 
for a certain period of time, should go out of their 
dwellings, or make any fire in them, upon pain of death. 
If any violated the tabu, they were apprehended and 
sacrificed to their idols. If none violated the tabu, and 
they were unsuccessful in obtaining victims, an expe- 
dient was adopted to decoy the people from their 
dwellings, by sending out men in a canoe, to range 
along between the coral reef and the shore, and to 
feign distress, and if any were decoyed out for their 
relief, they were apprehended and carried to the tem- 
ple and offered in sacrifice. 

It is a pleasing consideration, that the benign influ- 
ence of the gospel has dispelled these bloody and cruel 
superstitions of heathenism. I had an opportunity of 
seeing an old man who had been a high priest in these 
bloody rites. He has no hope that he is interested in 
the salvation of the gospel, but he said it is maitai, 
(good.) and that the Christian religion is so firmly es- 
tablished in these islands, that their ancient idolatry 
can never again be revived. He saluted me with many 
alohas. Mr. Bingham gave him some account of my 
journey across the Rocky Mountains, and the object. 
He replied that it was good, and that God was with 
me and preserved me. He said in their former reli- 
gion, they were all ignorant — all was darkness, entire 
darkness, but now the light shines. He said that when 
Captain Vancouver visited these islands, in the reign 
of Tamaha, he urged the king to renounce idolatry, 
and the king promised he would, when Christians 
would send from the land of light a minister to teach 
them in the right way. They waited until their king 



366 EVA WAIALUA. 

died without knowing the right way, and no one came 
until Mr. Bingham and his associates, in the year 1820. 
This old heathen priest gave up his religion and his 
honors, took Mr. B. by the hand on his first arrival, 
and called him brother, and has ever since been friendly 
to the missionaries. His wife, whom I also saw, hopes 
that she has experienced the saving power of the gospel. 

Fourteen miles west of Honolulu is Eva,* a vil- 
lage of considerable magnitude, but not very compact. 
It is situated .on Pearl river, at the head of a large la- 
goon extending several miles inland, and is surrounded 
with a fertile valley reaching twelve miles north, which 
is two-thirds of the distance to Waialua. The highest 
elevation between these places is about four hundred 
feet, and is intersected in various parts with deep ra- 
vines. Eva is the station which Rev. Artemus Bishop 
and wife occupy, whose prospects of usefulness are 
encouraging. When I was there, the natives were 
engaged in building a substantial and commodious 
house of worship, and appeared to take deep interest 
in the effort. 

In the north-west part of the island, is the village of 
Waialua, where Rev. John S. Emerson and wife are 
stationed. The village is situated upon a wide spread 
bay, which would furnish an excellent harbor for any 
shipping, if there was sufficient water upon the bar at 
the entrance. The valley around is large and fertile, 
capable of being made very productive. On a Sabbath 
which I spent here, eight natives, six men and two wo- 
men, were received into the communion of the church, 
who appeared very intelligent and serious, and con- 
ducted with as much propriety as is seen in the most 

* Pronounced Ava. 



KENEOHE MOUNTAINS. 367 

civilized parts of the world. I felt a satisfaction in 
joining with these redeemed heathen in the ordinance 
of the Lord's supper. Every part of divine service 
was conducted with Christian decorum. I was par- 
ticularly pleased with the appearance of the native 
deacon, who was dignified in his person, dressed in 
good taste, and very devotional in his behavior. 

The only remaining village of any considerable im- 
portance is Keneohe, where Rev. Benjaming W. 
Parker and wife are stationed. This village is in the 
fertile valley of Kolou, near the shore of a pleasant bay, 
which would afford an excellent harbor if there was 
sufficient water at the entrance over the coral bar. 
This village is about four miles north of the Pari, and 
is the most cool and refreshing retreat I found upon 
the island. The basaltic mountain on the south, three 
thousand feet high, and on the north side nearly verti- 
cal, and the north-east trade winds, give a temperate 
atmosphere, not found in any other part of the island 
sufficiently low for a village. 

The greatest part of the island is mountainous, though 
but two ranges are of considerable magnitude. The 
largest, Koanahumanui, is on the east side, and runs 
parallel with the ocean, and its highest point is four 
thousand feet above the level of the sea. This range of 
mountains is diversified with cones, acute points, and 
prairies. At the great Pari, the upper end of Nuuanu, 
the main chain turns to the west, and terminates 
towards Waialua. The north side of the range, west 
of the Pari, is very precipitous, having many spurs 
projecting to the north, including deep, pit-like ra- 
vines. The other range is on the w est part of the 
island, called Kaala, running north and south, separa- 
ting Waianae on the west, from the valley of Eva on 



368 GEOLOGY. 

the east. The highest point is three thousand eight 
hundred and fifty feet. There are many conical hills 
of different magnitudes in various parts of the island, 
which were evidently ancient craters ; one, six miles 
south-east of Honolulu, called Diamond Hill ; and an- 
other, a short distance north of Honolulu, called Fort 
Hill. They are open and concave at the top, with 
high walls, reeded down the sides, which appear to 
have been formed by streams of lava, and by the ac- 
tion of water cutting ravines. There is an abun- 
dance of lava and other volcanic productions about 
these hills. 

The Salt Lake, four miles west of Honolulu, is of 
the crateric form. It is a great curiosity, as well as a 
source of trade. It has undoubtedly a connection, by 
some subterraneous passage, with the ocean, near 
which it is situated. Its depth is not known, being 
nearly filled with excellent chrystalized salt, which ap- 
pears to be inexhaustible, and is taken out in large 
quantities for use and exportation. The lake appears 
as if filled with ice, a little sunken below the surface of 
the water. 

The geological formations of this island, and all the 
others in the Pacific which I saw, and concerning 
which I obtained information, are volcanic and cora- 
line to a great extent. Some have supposed that these 
islands have been thrown up in the first place by inter- 
nal" fires, and then enlarged by coraline additions. 
But there is too much argillaceous soil to favor the 
opinion ; and to say the least, the supposition is without 
conclusive evidence. Much of the soil is formed of 
disintegrated and decomposed lava. The reefs lying 
off from the shores, and in some places immediately 
upon them, are coraline. The corals are divided into 



PRODUCTIONS. . 369 

ancient and modern, the latter still increasing. Be- 
tween these formations is a volcanic deposit. The 
ancient corals are found in many places forming the 
surface of the plains, elevated some six or eight feet 
above the present level of the ocean. As the zoo- 
phytes which form coral, never work above water, it 
is evident that these islands have been elevated by 
some subterranean or submarine power, or the ocean 
is subsiding ; and as this recession of the ocean is seen 
in various parts of the world, in nearly, if not in the 
same degree, is it not probable that the waters of the 
ocean are gradually diminishing ? Of the modern co- 
rals there are many species, from the rock, to the most 
beautiful kinds resembling trees and plants, and of va- 
rious colors. The volcanic formations do not differ 
materially from those in Oregon Territory. Cellular 
lava is very common, often bordering upon pumice, 
and of various colors ; brick red, ash colored, orange 
yellow, and green. No primitive rocks are found, 
nor any silicious sand ; the sand upon the shores being 
formed either of disintegrated lava, scoria, or coral ; 
but more generally a combination of these three pro- 
ducts. 

While I shall not attempt a minute enumeration of 
the productions of these islands, the following are some 
of the principal. The cocoa tree, bread fruit, coa 
tree, which furnishes lumber nearly equal to ma- 
hogany ; hybiscus, candle nut tree, mulberry, fig, cot- 
ton shrub, which grows spontaneously and produces 
cotton of very fine quality ; coffee tree, grape vines, 
oranges, lemons, limes, pine apples, melons of superior 
quality, squashes, sugar cane, arrow root ; indigo plant, 
which grows finely without any care ; the guava, its 

fruit resembling mandrakes, but not agreeable to the 
16* 



370 ANiMAlS. 

taste of those not acustomed to it ; taro, sweet and 
common potatoes, and bananas. There are many ferns 
of extraordinary size ; and the cactus opuntia, fa- 
miliarly known as the prickly pear, growing to the 
height of six or eight feet, is planted in hedge-rows for 
enclosures. All the most superb tropical flowering 
plants luxuriate in these islands, among which we find 
the oriental lilac, eight different species of mimosa, the 
pride of Barbadoes, several varieties of convolvulus, 
and mirabilis, the passiflora or passion flower, roses, 
the Spanish pink, Mexican pea, and many other beauti- 
ful genera. Also, garden vegetables of various kinds. 
These islands when discovered by Capt. Cook, con- 
tained but very few animals, and most of those now 
found upon them have since been introduced from the 
Mexican coast. There are now, horses, mules, neat 
cattle, goats, hogs, dogs, fowls. The birds which have 
their residence here, though not numerous, are of most 
beautiful plumage, and the favorite head ornament of 
the women, is made of the golden colored feathers of 
a native bird. The crow and raven, which are com- 
mon in almost all parts of the world, have not found 
their way here. There are very few reptiles, besides 
the green lizard, which is very common, and in the 
days of the idolatry of the Islanders, was worshiped, 
and such is the influence of superstition, that they can 
hardly dismiss all feelings of reverence for this insigni- 
ficant reptile. If one comes into their dwellings, they 
choose to let it take its own departure, rather than mo- 
lest it. Snakes are unknown, and the scorpion and 
centiped have, within a very few years, been brought 
here in vessels. The mosquetoe was not known until 
recently, though now they are numerous and very 
annoying. 



GOVERNMENT. 371 

The government of these islands is absolute and he- 
reditary, administered by the king, queen, and chiefs, 
whose will is the supreme law ; the common people 
are a nation of slaves. The lands belong to the go- 
vernment, and are leased to the people at high rents, 
and even then they have no security that they shall 
enjoy the avails of their labor ; for besides the stipu- 
lated rents, the government make any additional de- 
mands they please, and the people are taught to obey 
without complaining. The king secures his house and 
person by life guards. Very frequently on a "Saturday 
morning, the queen regent, attended by her train of fe- 
male companions and servants in equestrian style, visits 
her garden some two miles east from Honolulu. Their 
appearance is fine, and they are w T ell skilled in horse- 
manship. Her ordinary mode of riding is in a small, 
low- wheel carriage, drawn by twenty servants. The 
persons of the chiefs are remarkable for their extraor- 
dinary size, towering quite above the height of the com- 
mon people, and in corpulency preserving correspond- 
ing dimensions. The Sandwich Islanders, or Kanakas, 
as the common people are called, have less activity of 
body and mind than the Indians of our continent, and 
yet a phrenologist would say that their intellectual 
powers are well developed. In their present political 
condition, they are not expected to be otherwise than 
indolent and improvident. In their dress, mode of 
living, and habitations generally, they have made but 
little 'advance upon the days of heathenism ; some in 
the interior, especially, wearing little more clothing 
than their maro, and having their dwellings in caverns 
in volcanic rocks. The chiefs, and some of the peo- 
ple, have good houses, dress in good fashion, and live 
comfortably. 



372 TEA PARTY. 

The king, queen regent, and chiefs, gave a tea party, 
to which with a few others I had the honor to be in- 
vited. They were dressed richly and in good taste ; 
the table was splendidly arrayed with silver plate and 
china ; the entertainment was both judiciously and 
tastefully arranged and prepared, and all the etiquette 
and ceremony of such occasions were observed. The 
conversation was cheerful and intelligent, without fri- 
volity, and nothing occurred embarrassing to any one. 
At a suitable early hour, we were invited into a 
well-furnished saloon, where, after a performance of 
music, both vocal and instrumental, the queen pro- 
posed that prayer should conclude our agreeable visit ; 
after which the company retired. I have seen but few 
parties in Christian America conducted more on the 
principles of rationality and religion. 

An entertainment, however, is sometimes transacted 
in a different style by some of our countrymen and 
other foreigners in these islands. A dog-feast, as it is 
here called, was given by foreign resident gentlemen, 
on the 20th of Sept., at the country seat of the Ameri- 
can consul, in honor of the officers of the American 
squadron, the Peacock and Enterprise, then in the har- 
bor of Honolulu. I extract from the account published 
in the Sandwich Island Gazette, as described at the 
time. " Food in the native style was bountifully 
served up— baked dog was among the dishes, and it 
was not to be despised. Songs, toasts, cheers, bum- 
pers, and speeches all came in their turn. Among the 

toasts, were, * Commodore , our Commodore? 

Commodore's reply, * May you all live a thousand 

years, and may we always meet here/ Doctor 

of the United States ship Peacock. * Population and 
prosperity to the Sandwich Islands, and an end to all 



DECREASE OF POPULATION. 373 

oppressive tabus. 1 The party separated teeming with 
good spirits." 

The population of these islands has been decreasing 
ever since an acquaintance has been had with them. 
Captain Cook estimated the people at 400,000. The 
present population is about 110,000. A variety of 
causes have conspired to bring about this declension ; 
and yet no one so prominent above the rest, as wholly 
to satisfy enquiry. It is acknowledged by all observers, 
and has become evident to the government itself, that 
a change of things in the internal structure of their na- 
tional affairs, is necessary to the prosperity of the peo- 
ple. During my stay at Oahu, the heads of the nation 
had frequent meetings to discuss the subject of reform 
and improvement, and to adopt some new mode of ad- 
ministration which will give to the people the privi- 
leges of freemen, and thereby stimulate them to indus- 
try. To effect this, the lands must be distributed 
among the people, a more equal mode of taxation must 
be adopted, industry must be encouraged, and pro- 
gressive prosperity will follow in the train.* 

The perpetuity of the independence of this nation, 
and with it their existence, is very problematical. A 
disposition to possess these islands, has evidently been 
manifested by foreign powers. Whether the paw of 
the Lion, or the talons of the Eagle, shall first make 
them its prey, or whether they shall be mutual checks 
upon each other, and thus prolong the life of this fee- 
ble nation, is not known. - The manner in which the 
king and chiefs are often treated by the officers of 
foreign nations, the insults they often meet with, would 



*Since my visit at these islands, the government has been re-organized 
and formed upon the system of free governments. 



374 UNJUST NEGOTIATIONS. 

not pass with impunity from a more powerful people. 
In fair and honorable negotiations, regard is had to 
mutual rights, but here foreigners assume the style of 
dictation ; " You shall, and you shall not." Assertions 
are made of things existing in the laws and practices 
of England and America, which neither government 
would tolerate. Lord Russel, the commander of the 
Acteon, a British man of war, obtained the signature 
to a certain instrument, by assuring the Hawaiian go- 
vernment that, if they refused any longer to sign it, he 
would order all the English vessels to leave the harbor, 
and request all the American shipping to withdraw ; 
and then bring his armed ship before their fort and 
batter down the walls, and prostrate their village. 
The king signed the instrument, and then, together 
with the queen and chiefs, like some other people who 
feel their feebleness before a mightier nation, had 
only the poor resort of a public remonstrance. They 
accordingly sent a remonstrance to the king of Great 
Britain, in which they say, that " on account of their 
urging us so strongly ; on account of said commanders 
assuring us that their communication was from the 
king ; and on account of their making preparation to 
fire upon us — therefore we gave our assent to the wri- 
ting, without our being willing to give our real appro- 
bation ; for we were not pleased with it." They feel 
incompetent to contend with naval strength, and there- 
fore submit to indignities from which their feelings 
revolt. Why cannot the principles of justice and 
equity govern the intercourse of men with men, 
where they are so well understood, and the painful ne- 
cessity be spared innocence and helplessness of sup- 
plicating that protection, which God designed should 
be enjoyed by all his children ? 



FOREIGN RESIDENTS. 375 

Much has been said of the character of the foreign 
residents, and of the counteracting influence they exert 
upon the labors of the missionaries in this field. The 
cause of their bitterness and opposition is well under- 
stood, and lest my own observations should seem par- 
tial to the missionaries, and invidious towards those 
who oppose them, I will embrace all I have to say on 
the subject in a quotation from a work published by 
Mr. J. N. Reynolds, of the voyage of the Potomac, an 
American man of war. He certainly cannot be ac- 
cused of partiality to the missionaries who reside on 
these islands, for his remarks on them are somewhat 
acrimonious, but in regard to the foreign residents he 
says, " they are generally devoid of all religious prin- 
ciple, and practice the greatest frauds upon the na- 
tives in their dealings with them ; which tends to 
corrupt their morals, and to preclude all hopes of fair- 
ness in trade among them. It cannot be denied, and 
no one can regret it more than we do, that this whole 
population, generally speaking, are of the lowest 
order ; among whom every thing like the decent re- 
straint which civilized society imposes upon its mem- 
bers, is at war with their vicious propensities, and of 
course resisted by them to the extent of their power." 
He farther adds, " let us be distinctly understood in 
the remarks we have made in reference to the foreign 
residents and missionaries on this island. As to the 
question, which party is on the side of virtue and good 
order, there can be but one opinion, where there is 
not even room for comparison." I have been in com- 
munities where vice has been unblushingly indulged, 
hut I have never witnessed direct enmity to every 
thing morally good, in so much bitterness and power, 
as in Oahu. 



376 CHARITY SCHOOLS. 

Most of the foreign residents have native wives, and 
manifest a regard for the education of their children, 
and send some of them to other countries for this pur- 
pose ; but for most of them a charity school has been 
established, and for its support a call is made upon 
the commanders and officers of vessels who come into 
this port ; and they have even sent to England and 
America for charitable aid. Though some poor are 
taught here, yet I know not why the benevolent should 
help, by way of charity, the consuls and rich merchants 
in Oahu. 

I visited the seamen's chapel and preached several 
times for Rev. Mr. Diell. While there are often se- 
veral hundred seamen in the port of Honolulu, there 
are frequently very few attendants on the regular 
services of the chapel. Rev. Mr. Diell, their worthy 
chaplain, is however indefatigable in his labors through 
the week, visiting sailors on ship board, and wherever 
he can find them, endeavoring to -promote their spirit- 
ual good. Some conversions have crowned his ef- 
forts. 

On the occasion of the funeral of an infant of the 
Princess, whose husband is Leleiohoku, alias Wm. Pitt, 
I visited the burial place of the kings and royal family. 
This is a stone building of rock coral, of the common 
size and structure of the houses of the village, and 
situated amongst them, having nothing particularly 
distinguishable except an outward signal, by which is 
understood the number and rank of the dead within. 
They are encased first in lead, secured from the ad- 
mission of air, and then deposited in coffins of elegant 
workmanship, covered with rich silk velvet, or crimson 
damask, and ornamented with silver or brass plate. 
Here sleeps the remains of Rihoriho, and Kameha- 






MISSIONARY SUCCESS. 377 

malu, who died on a visit to England, and several oth- 
ers lying in state ; and in the same tomb, are interred 
a number of other members of the royal family. 

The missionaries of the American Board of Commis- 
sioners for Foreign Missions in these islands, have 
done much to elevate the character of the population, 
by teaching and preaching the truths of Christianity ; 
by schools, where the first rudiments of education are 
taught ; by the press, and a translation of the entire 
bible ; they have exerted a salutary influence upon the 
morals of the whole nation, and raised a monument to 
the power and excellence of the gospel of Jesus Christ. 
They have also laid, instrumentally, a broad founda- 
tion for the political, and social, and religious improve- 
ment of that people, unless thwarted by the interfe- 
rence and opposition of foreigners, and for the future 
and unending happiness of many redeemed souls in the 
world to come. I had frequent opportunities of wit- 
nessing the effect of their labors in the evidences of 
the moral renovation of these once idolaters, and of 
meeting with them in their great congregation on the 
Sabbath. 



378 HOMEWARD BOUND. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

Departure from Oahu in ship Phoenix for the United States — call at the 
Society Islands — brief description of Tahiti and Eimeo — severe gales 
of wind — Magellanic clouds — Martin Vass Island — Trinidad — arrival 
at New London. 

From July to November, no vessel departed from 
the Sandwich Islands direct for the United States, and 
after being detained about five months, waiting an op- 
portunity to return, I engaged a passage in the Phoe- 
nix, Allyn, from New London, and embarked Decem- 
ber 17th. The ship was built for the China trade, of 
four hundred and ten tons, manned with twenty-eight 
persons, besides five passengers. The pilot boat left 
us well out at sea, at nine in the morning ; our course 
south- w r est. On the morning of the 21st, we encoun- 
tered a strong wind, which in the afternoon, had in- 
creased so much, that we were compelled to put two 
reefs in the top-sails ; and a squall split our jib and 
sprung our foremast. I had no opportunity or dispo- 
sition to enjoy the grandeur of the rolling ocean, being 
confined to the cabin by sea sickness. Our ship was 
engaged in the whaling business, and I was furnished, 
for once, with an opportunity of seeing the experiment 
of taking a whale. The thing has often been described, 
but the novelty of the manoeuvre interested me. The 
experienced and skillful whalemen dispose of the dan- 
gerous process, with the tactics of their profession, in 
a manner much beyond my conceptions before witness- 
ing it ; and the monster of the deep, though mighty in 
his strength, is made to submit to inferior power, and 



TETTJAROA. 379 

to contribute largely to illuminate our evenings, at 
home. When the whale is brought along side of the 
ship, the whalemen dissever the head from the body, 
hoist it on deck, and whilst some are employed in per- 
forating the scull, and with a bucket taking out the 
sperm, others make a spiral incision in the oily portion 
of the body, beginning where the head was taken off 
and by rope and hook suspended by a pulley twenty 
feet up the mainmast, draw up the oily part which 
cleaves from the flesh, while the body of the whale re- 
volves in the water ; and this process is continued un- 
til all that is valuable is secured. There are said to 
be thirty thousand men employed in this business in 
the Pacific, w T hile only about four hundred are engaged 
in diffusing the light of life through the dark places of 
the earth. 

January 12th, 1837. Through the whole of to-day 
we had strong gales from N. N. E. Our top-sails 
were close reefed — split our main-top-sail. Headed 
to the E. close on the wind. Very bad sea — not able 
to take any observation of our latitude or longitude. 
These gales continued on the 13th until almost every 
sail was taken in, and we lay to on the wind. The 
last part of the day was more moderate, and we headed 
south. By observation taken to-day, our latitude was 
14o 47' south. 

Sabbath, 15th. The winds subsided, and the wea- 
ther was warm. In the morning we came near Te- 
tuaroa, a small island of the Society group. It is low, 
the highest parts rising but a few feet above the level 
of the sea, is thinly inhabited, and adorned with large 
and beautiful groves of the cocoa tree extending even 
to the water's edge. The fresh verdure of this island, 
in all the luxuriance of perpetual summer, was a de- 



380 TAHITI. 

lightful contrast to the constant view of the water for 
nearly a month, and I felt as though these gems of the 
ocean were scattered here to refresh the tired voyager, 
and bring to his mind the recollection of his own dear 
home. Like all the islands of this ocean which I have 
seen, it is surrounded with coral reefs, lying off at a 
little distance from the shore, and upon which the sea 
constantly breaks. In the afternoon we approached 
the harbor of Papeeti, at the island of Tahiti. The 
pilot came off to us, and made an effort to get the ship 
in, but did not succeed, the wind being too light, and 
we had to bear off for the night. The prospect as it 
lay spread out before us was a combination of all that 
was beautiful in nature. Nor am I alone in the im- 
pression which this little " Queen of the ocean" makes 
upon a stranger. Others have described it with all 
the vividness which its romantic and delightful scenery 
inspires. The harbor forms a gentle curve, and in the 
foreground, on a level tract, were scattered neat cot- 
tages, built of thatch, or wood, plastered and white- 
washed with coral lime, situated together with the 
church, in the midst of bread-fruit, cocoa, and orange 
groves. The back ground of the enchanting picture 
was filled up with hills and valleys, and streams dash- 
ing their way down the ravines, and then meandering 
through the rich vale below, to the ocean, while the 
outline terminated in steep and lofty mountains. But 
not the least interesting were the marks which the 
the Christian religion and its attendant, civilization, 
have made. Here was a church, and to know that 
this people had lately been rescued from paganism, 
and all the hideous forms of idolatrous worship, raised 
in my heart emotions of pleasure and gratitude, which 
not even nature's fairest forms had power to awaken. 



CHRISTIANITY AND CIVILIZATION. 881 

An immortal spirit elevated from the dust, and raised 
to heaven, a monument of the Savior's grace — what 
can equal it ? 

Monday morning, the 16th, we passed safely into 
the harbor, where we found the Daniel Webster, Pier- 
son, from Sag Harbor ; on board of which were Rev. 
W. Richards and family, passengers for the United 
States. 

We continued in this port four days, during which 
time I made several excursions about the island, and 
became acquainted with the English missionaries, of 
whose successful labors I had often heard and read ; 
the Rev. Messrs. Wilson, Pritchard, and Darling, and 
their families. They appear happy in their work, and 
devoted to it. The Christian religion is the only reli- 
gion acknowledged in these islands, and its influence 
is universally apparent. As the conversion of multi- 
tudes in the first ages of Christianity, has ever been 
considered as furnishing evidence of the truth of the 
gospel, so the "moral miracle" of the conversion of 
the islands of the sea, in our own day, is calculated, 
with all its attendant circumstances, to comfirm our 
faith, as well as to encourage us in prosecuting still 
farther those benevolent designs, which render the de- 
serts, both naturally and morally, the garden of the 
Lord. Besides preaching on the Sabbath, the mis- 
sionaries have religious service on other days of the 
week. At sun-rise every morning they have a pub- 
lic prayer meeting. They are doing much by their 
schools and the press ; and most of the people can 
read. The performances of the natives in vocal mu- 
sic pleased me, their voices being very soft and mu- 
sical, though less cultivated than those of the Sandwich 
Islanders. Their personal appearance, complexion, 



382 GOVERNMENT. 

language, and dress are much the same as the natives 
of those islands. Their advances in the arts and in 
agriculture, are less than might be expected of them, 
but in a climate where so many rich fruits vegetate 
spontaneously, the necessity of cultivation is less im- 
perious. While the harbor is not as good as that of 
Oahu, less is done by way of wharfing, or otherwise to 
facilitate business, or to aid in repairing the shipping 
which visit this island. A good public road has been 
commenced to extend around the island, on which con- 
victs, instead of being imprisoned, were employed, 
but it is now neglected, and all the bridges are broken 
down. 

The government here is much the same as that of 
the Sandwich Islands, but is in some respects more 
free and systematized. Their judiciary is well organ- 
ized, and justice is tolerably well administered. Their 
legislative body is composed of the queen, governors, 
chiefs, and two representatives from each district of 
the islands of Tahiti and Eimeo ; the laws when framed 
are canvassed by the people, and if approved, receive 
the queen's signature. The young queen, Pomare, is 
of very prepossessing appearance, possesses talents, 
and decision of character ; but her views of civiliza- 
tion are not so enlarged as those of Madam Kinau. 

The American consul at these islands, resides at Pa. 
peeti ; he is a Dutchman, and as he informed me, a 
native and citizen of Antwerp. His English is hardly 
intelligible, and his knowledge of the duties of his of- 
fice is yet to be acquired. 

The islands of Tahiti and Eimeo, like the other large 
islands of the Pacific, are volcanic and coraline. They 
are mountainous, and many of the mountains are high 
and steep, and many of the valleys are deep and 



CLEANLINESS OF THE ISLANDERS. 383 

narrow, extending far into the interior. To a consider 
able extent the soil is rich and productive ; oranges 
and all other tropical fruits being abundant, and re- 
quiring little labor or care. Such is the indolence of 
the inhabitants that they cultivate little besides sugar 
cane and a few vegetables. These islands are well 
supplied with forests, in which are several kinds of 
wood equal in value to mahogany for cabinet work. 
The heat for the most part of the year is so oppressive, 
that though many things are very pleasant, yet these 
islands come short of the paradise which some jour- 
nalists have described. 

These, like the other islands of the Pacific, have been 
dimishing in populousness. Various causes, such as 
the introduction of foreign diseases, infanticide, human 
sacrifices, the means furnished by commerce of ren- 
dering wars destructive to human life, and the intro- 
duction of ardent spirits, have all contributed to this 
end. It is estimated that only about twelve thousand 
people inhabit the two islands of Tahiti and Eimeo, 
and about forty thousand both the Georgian and So- 
ciety group. The introduction of the Christian reli- 
gion has banished many causes of their decline. 

The cleanliness of the islanders is a subject worthy 
of remark. Their practice of frequent ablutions and 
sea bathing, to which they are induced by the climate, 
and of which they are fond, including all descriptions 
of persons, and even children, is highly conducive to 
health, and promotes a taste for neatness in their per- 
sons not common to heathen nations. 

Wednesday, 18th, I accompanied Mr. Pritchard in 
his pastoral labors, about seven miles, on horseback, 
where he preached to a congregation in a village in 
which the queen has her residence. Queen Pomare 



384 PUBLIC FEASTS. 

was present, and an interesting audience appeared to 
listen as if they were hearing the word to obey it. 
After the meeting, we pursued our ride about seven 
miles farther, to Rev. Mr. Wilson's at Point Venus, a 
lovely spot situated in orange and banana groves. 
Our way thither was around the base of hills, and 
mountains which approached near the beach in pre- 
cipices, and where the opening through the coral reefs 
permitted the sea to break on the shore with a noise 
like thunder, so that we had to watch the opportunity 
afforded by the receding waves to pass these points. 
Any horses, but those accustomed to the noise and 
sight, would have denied us a safe passage. With 
these dear missionaries I partook of a cheerful dish of 
tea, while we talked of the interests of the kingdom of 
our common Redeemer, and of the time when fellow 
laborers from every part of our lost world, and from 
their different spheres of agency, when their work 
here is done, shall be gathered to their Father's home 
in heaven. 

In the evening we returned to Mr. Pritchard's, on 
my part delighted with so refreshing an interview. 

During my short stay, the queen and royal family of 
a neighboring island, paid a visit of friendship to Ta- 
hiti. This afforded me a very desirable opportunity 
of remarking the manners and customs of the people. 
A public feast was given in honor of the royal visitants ; 
and the day was ushered in by firing rusty guns, of 
which they have a very few. The morning until ten 
o'clock was occupied in collecting together their co- 
coa nuts, bananas, baked hogs, &c. Many were out 
to purchase calico scarfs of two or three yards in 
length to wear in the procession. A very large pro- 
cession formed, the women taking the lead, and the 



FEASTING BOWER. 385 

men following in order. A female with an infant in 
her arms led the van. This was explained to me as 
done in honor of mothers ; for here as well as at the 
Sandwich Islands, women are regarded as in all re- 
spects on a par with men. All were well attired in 
European style, their heads adorned tastefully with 
garlands of most beautiful tropical flowers, with which 
their sea-girt isle abounds in profusion. After taking, 
in single file, a long and circuitous march, they ar- 
rived at their feasting bower, under a grove of cocoa- 
nut, bread-fruit, and orange trees, where near the cen- 
tre, with an infant, sat the royal visitor ; and as they 
passed, each Tahitian threw down at her feet their 
scarfs or some other present. It was the pleasure of 
the queen, however, not long to retain all these tokens 
of honor, for she seemed happy in generously giving 
them to others. After the procession had passed in 
respectful review, next came the refreshments, which 
were placed, some on the ground, others suspended on 
boughs of trees, which were taken and shared in little 
circles seated upon the grass, evidently enjoying the 
social interview. This is considered one of their most 
joyful holidays, and was managed without noise, con- 
fusion, or any apparent infraction of the rules of pro- 
priety. It must be recollected that this is a temperance 
island ; all traffic in ardent- spirits being prohibited by 
law. 

In taking leave of these islands, I would not fail to 
mention the kind hospitality of Rev. G. Pritchard and 
family, and the satisfaction I had in seeing the other 
missionaries, and witnessing the interesting fruits of 
their labors, under the blessing of God. 

Our stay at Tahiti was employed by the ship's crew 
in disposing of our poor sulphureted water from the 
17 



386 PREPARING FOR SEA. 

Sandwich Islands, and in re-supplying themselves from 
the pure mountain streams of this island, and in " ve- 
getating the ship/ 9 as they phrase it; that is, by col- 
lecting quantities, which are purchased of the natives, 
of oranges, bananas, sweet potatoes, limes, cocoanuts 
in abundance, bread-fruit, yams, and squashes. Here 
I collected for my cabinet, some choice specimens of 
coral and shells of the ocean, which the natives dive to 
obtain, and sell to the ships which enter this port. 

On the morning of Saturday, 21st January, we left 
the harbor of Tahiti with a light wind, and as we 
sailed around Eimeo, its mountains, with their densely 
wooded tops and precipitous sides, appeared in full 
prospect. On this inland there is a high school for the 
children of the missionary families of the several 
islands. 

We proceeded with a favorable wind until the 30th, 
when our latitude was 30° 27' south, and longitude 
153° 10' west. I was here much gratified to witness 
the interesting phenomenon of a water-spout. It first 
became visible to us about half a mile distant as it 
arose, and at that distance we had no apprehensions of 
danger from it, and yet it was sufficiently near to give 
a distinct view. It commenced in a small, dark, and 
nearly perpendicular column, enlarging its diameter as 
it rose, until it reached the region of the clouds, when, 
apparently feeling the influence of the wind, it passed 
obliquely to the south-west. It continued in view 
some time, but as we were proceeding on our course, 
it gradually disappeared. 

On the 4th of February, fresh breezes from the 
north-west took the place of the south-east trade- winds, 
and our course was laid E. S. E. 

On the 5th we had strong gales from the west. Put 



MAN OVERBOARD HEAVY GALE. 387 

two reefs in the top-sails, and took in the mizzen-top- 
sail, and handed the main-sail. The sea was very 
heavy. On the 9th the wind was more moderate ; 
and while engaged in spearing porpoises, one of the 
men fell overboard from the bow, and went directly 
under the ship, and came up under her stern. The 
life buoy was thrown over to him, but being an indif- 
ferent swimmer he was long in his efforts to seize it. 
By lowering the boat and rounding about the ship, he 
was recovered on board much exhausted, and almost 
overcome with the cold. Hundreds are daily, by a 
great variety of occurrences, taken from the world, 
and the certain knowledge awakens but feeble sensa- 
tions in our bosoms ; but a solitary case of individual 
danger and suffering which we witness, arouses all our 
anxieties and sympathies, and we are grateful when re- 
lieved by the safety of the sufferer. 

On the 16th and 17th, the gale was tremendous. 
We were in latitude about 47° south, and 120° west 
longitude. With nearly every sail taken in, we could 
only run before the wind, which was from the north- 
west, and the waves were constantly breaking over our 
bulwarks. Such was the roaring of the wind and 
breaking waves, that it was difficult for the orders of 
the captain to be heard, upon his loudest voice, from 
midship, forward or aft. The wind blew tons of wa- 
ter into the air and scattered it into ten thousand sprays. 
I never had such evidence of the power of wind and 
water, nor of the admirable manner the ship could live 
in such a gale. She would roll upon the waves, and 
plunge, and rise again upon the mountain billows. 
The whole scene was fraught with magnificence, ter- 
ror, and grandeur. It was a great favor that we had a 
courageous and experienced captain ; and a sober, ac- 



388 HEAVY GALE. 

tive, and obedient crew ; and above all, the protection 
of Heaven. Two men were constantly at the wheel, 
selected from our best steersmen. We shipped a great 
quantity of water, and on the night of the 17th, the fore 
deck had scarcely at any time, less than a foot, or two 
feet of water, the waves breaking over faster than the 
water could pass through the scuppers. Two pumps 
were at work a large portion of the time to keep the 
ship clear, so much water was constantly finding its 
way down the closed hatches and other leakages of the 
deck. The two men at each pump labored so forcibly, 
that it was necessary to be relieved by others every 
three minutes. I reflected on the condition of those 
who were not prepared for death, and that even to a 
Christian a quiet death-bed would be preferable to lea- 
ving the world in such a scene of confusion. But we 
were spared in great kindness, and the following morn- 
ing the wind began to abate. Captain Allyn, who had 
been into most of the principal seas, and around both 
of the great Capes, said he never saw, except in a ty- 
phoon which he encountered on the Japan coast, any 
gale which equalled this. 

The gales continued with frequent squalls of hail 
and rain until the 28th, when we found we w T ere driven 
to the 59° of south latitude, and 77° west longitude. 
This was farther south of Cape Horn than we wished 
to go. The w T eather was cold and thick, the thermom- 
eter ranging between 41° and 47° for several days. 
On the first of March, we saw, for the first time after 
leaving Tahiti, a sail to the windward heading south- 
west, but were unable to speak her. It was very 
pleasant to find our latitude lessening in our home- 
ward course, though we were not up with the Cape 
until the third of March. During the gales, and es- 



MAGELLANIC CLOUDS. 389 

pecially in stormy weather, our vessel was very fre- 
quently visited by a bird, which navigators call the 
Noddy, and which is easily taken with the hand. It 
is of the Tern genus, twelve inches long, slenderly 
formed ; its plumage is a dark sooty brown, excepting 
the top of its head which is dusky white. The Alba- 
tross also was constantly flying about us, regardless of 
wind and waves. Our men caught several of them 
with a hook, the heads of which, when standing upon 
the deck, were four feet high ; their aler measurement 
was ten feet. Although they are generally of a brown 
color, yet in the region of Cape Horn, they vary from 
a mixture of brown and white, to an almost entire 
white. They are the largest class of the feathered 
race. 

We had for a long time an opportunity of observing 
the Magellanic clouds ; which are three in number, 
two luminous and one black ; about thirty degrees dis- 
tant from each other, and fixed in their relative situa- 
tions as are the fixed stars. Although I had noticed 
them, supposing them to be clouds, and wondering 
how an illuminated cloud should be seen at all times 
of the night, and preserve its position with an outline 
so well defined and so plainly marked, yet my mind 
was not wholly satisfied respecting them, until the 
mate of the ship, who had seen them in previous voy- 
ages, and who possessed considerable astronomical 
knowledge, pointed out to me some of their charac- 
teristics. The weather in these high southern lati- 
tudes being so uniformly thick and cloudy, prevented 
our observing them so early, or carefully as we might 
otherwise have done. They were distinctly visible 
for weeks, keeping their relative situation, and their 
altitude above the southern horizon lessening to the 



390 AN EAST INDIAMAN. 

beholder, according as his latitude diminished while 
he proceeded north. The forms of each are about five 
degrees in diameter. The luminous ones undoubtedly 
are formed by clusters of stars, so numerous and con- 
tiguous, and so distant as only to give a glimmering 
light like luminous clouds, which gives them their 
name ; and the black one is very probably the entire 
absence of all light. I gazed at these, night after night, 
withwonder and admiration. It seemed to me, that 
looking at the dark one, was looking beyond created 
nature into infinite space. 

Gales occurred occasionally after we doubled Cape 
Horn, but most of the time was pleasant and the winds 
favorable, until the 27th of March, in south latitude 
32° 27', and west longitude 28° 34', the wind came 
around to the north, and continued to blow from a 
northerly direction for ten days, which retarded our 
progress, and carried us off our course to the east, un- 
til we were brought into 28° west longitude, where we 
changed our course west by north. On the first of 
April we spoke an East Indiaman. She was a very 
large, fine-looking ship, of about eight hundred tons, 
well filled with men, women and children, who proba- 
bly were passengers for New Holland. This was the 
first ship we had spoken after the Spartan, near the 
line on the other side of the continent. It is difficult 
to imagine how pleasant it is to see and speak a ship, 
after having been months at sea. A few hours after, 
we saw another East Indiaman, but did not speak her. 
By falling in with these ships, we found we were so 
near Africa, that we were in the track of ships from 
Europe to the Cape of Good Hope. 

The same day we buried one of the seamen in the 
great deep. He was a man who in early life was 



MARTIN VASS AND TRINIDAD ISLANDS. 391 

trained up in the care of pious parents, but whose after 
life was marked by vices, which in their consequences 
led to a comparatively early death. It was a solemn 
scene when we committed his remains to the water 
grave. The colors were raised half mast, the whole 
ship's company collected around ; the body, with 
weights attached, was laid upon a plank at the gang- 
way ; and we paused to dwell for a moment on death 
and the dread scenes beyond. I addressed them in a 
few remarks suggested by the occasion, and after a 
prayer, the plank was gently moved over the side of 
the ship, and the dead disappeared to be seen no 
more. 

On the 2d, we made Martin Vass Islands, which are 
five in number, composed wholly of volcanic rocks, 
without any soil ; some of them are cones, shooting 
up four or five hundred feet. Two are very small and 
needle pointed. They are all so precipitous, and the 
sea constantly breaking against them, that there is no 
landing. Their forms are fantastical ; one of them 
having the appearance of a fortification with bastions, 
about which are needle points resembling men on 
guard. They are in 20° 31' south latitude, and 28° 
38' west longitude. By changing our course more 
westerly we made Trindad, off against St. Roque, 
which is an island of considerable size, and in latitude 
20° 28', and longitude 29° 5 ; . Near evening we were 
fifteen miles from it, and wishing to land in the morn- 
ing, we took in sail and lay off for the night. Some 
Portuguese once settled upon it, but it is so difficult of 
access, that they abandoned it, and it is now without 
any inhabitants. 

On the morning of the 3d, we ran down to within 
three miles of the island, and manned three boats to go 



392 EVENING AT SEA. 

on shore ; but finding no place free from breakers, 
gave up the attempt, caught a few fish near the shores, 
and after being much annoyed with flies which came 
off to us, we returned to the ship, and with a fa- 
vorable breeze pursued our course. This island is also 
volcanic, has an iron-bound shore, and is mountainous, 
the highest part of which is about fifteen hundred, or 
two thousand feet. It is a place of resort for multi- 
tudes of birds and sea fowl, some of which are large. 
I had an opportunity to see, but not to examine, the 
man-of-war hawk. They are numerous here, and 
while they are handsome, they are also ravenous, al- 
ways taking their prey upon the wing. There were 
many of the perfectly silky white species of the Tern, 
which hovered over us with great tameness, as though 
they wished to form an acquaintance with us, not sus- 
pecting any hostility. 

Most of our nights, as well as days, for a long time 
were clear, and the stars were seen with remarkable 
brightness. What has been described by others of 
evenings at sea, in the southern hemisphere, I had an 
opportunity of observing with admiration. The rich- 
est colors of red, orange, and yellow, are spread over 
the western sky after the setting sun, and often over 
the whole concave of heaven. No pencil of art can 
imitate the tints and hues which blend in softness over 
this scene of beauty. Nature's pencil only can lay on 
these delicate shades, and add to them the brilliancy, 
ever varying, of so much richness and splendor. 

In the deep seas we did not see many fish ; of the 
few which came under our observation, the dorado, or 
as commonly called, the dolphin, and the pilot fish ex- 
celled in the beauty of their colors. The former, 
when taken upon deck, constantly changed its colors 



PLYING PISH. 393 

from the bright purple to the gold, the bluish green, 
and the silver white, and these spreading out into van- 
ishing shades. The pilot fish is equally beautiful, but 
is singular in the choice of company and employment ; 
always being found with the shark, and conducting 
him to his prey, from w T hich it derives its name. 

The flying fish is a curiosity, furnished with powers 
for occupying both air and water, but finds no friend 
in either ; pursued by the porpoise, or the dolphin, or 
some other fish, it swims with all speed until it can no 
longer escape its destructive enemy, and then takes to 
flight in the air, where the albatross and the man-of- 
war hawk hover to make it their prey. In its flight 
it often falls upon the decks of ships where man shows 
it no mercy. 

On the 19th of April we passed the equator. For a 
few days we had calms or only light wind with show- 
ers. The heat was very intense, and to be becalmed 
under these circumstances is more to be dreaded than 
gales. But we were much favored, and soon found 
ourselves in north latitude, and it was with sensations 
of delight that I again beheld the North star, though 
but just above the horizon. I hailed it as the harbin- 
ger of good, and an indication that I was fast ap- 
proaching my long desired home and friends. 

All objects at sea are considered worthy of notice, 
and the gulf weed, which was seen in great abundance 
before we came to the gulf-stream, was observed with 
no small interest. It is an aquatic plant of a peculiar 
light green color, and floats upon the surface of the 
water. We entered and passed the stream on the 
14th of May, in 36° 37' north latitude ; and though a 
rough sea is generally expected here, yet we had a very 

17* 



394 LAND DESCRIED. 

pleasant time. The current is at the rate of three 
miles an hour, and the temperature seven degrees 
warmer than the adjacent water. 

On the 17th of May, at three in the afternoon, we 
were cheered with the cry from the man at the mast 
head, "Land ho! ahead" It proved to be Block 
Island. We came in sight of the light-house in the 
evening, but too late to attempt to get into the harbor 
before morning, and therefore lay off for the night. In 
the morning we found ourselves among various ship- 
ping bound to different ports. We passed Montauk 
Point and drew near to New London, where the sight 
of the city, the shipping in the harbor, the country 
around, and the islands dressed in green, were most 
grateful, especially to one so long conversant with hea- 
then countries and a wide expanse of ocean. Passed 
up the Thames to the city, and I rejoiced to land once 
more upon Christian and civilized shores, my native 
land, my country ! In taking leave of the Phoenix, I felt 
it due to the captain and crew to say, that I received 
from them every kind attention I could wish, and it be- 
ing a temperance ship, I did not hear a profane word 
from any while on board. We had public worship, du- 
ring the voyage on the Sabbath, and the word of God 
was blessed, as there was reason to believe, to the sa- 
ving conversion of some souls. I found kind friends in 
New London, and after arranging my business, di- 
rected my way to Ithaca, where I arrived on the 23d 
of May, after an absence of more than two years and 
tw r o months, and having accomplished a journey of 
twenty-eight thousand miles. 



THE SEASONS. 395 

I have in several places made mention of the supe- 
rior mildness of the climate west of the Rocky Moun- 
tains, and that the seasons are divided into the wet and 
dry ; the rainy season commencing about the first of 
November, and the dry about the first of May. The 
following Meteorological Table, which was taken with 
care, will give a general specimen. 



METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. 



397 



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398 



METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. 



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METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. 



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400 METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. 



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METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. 401 



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METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. 403 



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404 METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. 



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METEOROLOGICAL TABLE. 405 






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VOCABULARY OF INDIAN LANGUAGES. 



Several gentlemen of erudition, who have profess- 
edly investigated the languages of the American In- 
dians, have given it as their opinion that they are all 
traceable to four roots. But I am confident, from the 
opportunities I have had to examine the languages of 
many different nations, that the opinion is entirely un- 
founded. The following vocabularies are given as 
specimens of difference in the languages of four na- 
tions in Oregon. The languages of other nations are 
equally distinct. 





NEZ PERCE LANGUAGE. 


nglish. 


Indian, 


God, 


hemakis Tota. 


Spirit, 


koonapa. 


Father, 


tota. 


Man, 


hama. 


Woman, 


iat. 


Mother, 


peka. 


Child, 


meaits. 


Brother, 


uskeep. 


Sister, 


axsip. 


Husband, 


hama. 


Wife, 


waipna. 



408 





NEZ PERCE. 


I, 




en. 


Thou, 




em. 


He, 




emim. 


She, 




aiat. 


It, 




ke. 


They, 




elahne tetokan. 


People, 




tetokan. 


Heaven, 




accompenaka. 


Earth, 




waitush. 


Water, 




coos. 


Fire, 




aula. 


Snow, 




maika. 


Rain, 




waikit. 


Wood, 




haitsu. 


Grass, 




pax. 


Hell, or 


bad spirit, 


koonapa kapseish. 


Horse, 




shecum. 


White Bear, 


hahats. 


Black Bear, 


eakat. 


Beaver, 




taxpull. 


Otter, 




collas. 


Deer, 




enishnim. 


Moose, 




taissheep. 


Buffalo, 




cocoil. 


Wolf, 




siyah. 


Salmon, 




natso. 


Trout, 




wowalthum* 


Gun, 




temoon. 


Powder, 




popokes. 


Ball, 




saip. 


Stone, 




pishwa. 


What is 


that? 


etu ke. 


Who is 


that? 


eshe ke. 


There, 




koone. 



NEZ PERCE. 


Here, 


kene. 


Where, 


mene. 


When, 


mowwa. 


How many ? 


moits. 


None, 


siou. 


All, 


oekalla. 


Plenty, 


elahne. 


Near by, 


keemta. 


Great way off, 


wyat. 


This road, 


iskit. 


Stop, 


collo. 


Go, 


ccetuc. 


Run, 


willaikit. 


Go fast, 


haum teets. 


Stop here, 


collo kene. 


Encamp, 


wispeix. 


Sleep, 


penemeek. 


Eat, 


hipsh. 


I hear, 


en amachish. 


You hear, 


em amachish. 


I understand, 


en amacus. 


Come, 


come. 


I know, 


en soko. 


You know, 


em soko. 


He knows, 


emim soko. 


They know, 


tetokan soko. 


I do not know, 


waiitu en soko, 


Talk, 


tumtein. 


Ride, 


wyatcus. 


Wait, 


coats. 


Swim, 


shuway. 


Love, 


aitou. 


Hate, 


waiitu aitou. 


Kill, 


wapseou. 


18 





409 



410 





NEZ PERCE. 


Alive, 


waikus. 


Make, 


ainees. 


Take, 


enip. 


Carry, 


enip coeta. 


Give, 


enahanim. 


Pay, 


tumaitcus. 


Make fire, 


ailix. 


Worship, 


tolla poosa. 


Smoke, 


keieta. 


Sun, moon, 


hasumtooks. 


Prairie, 


paix. 


Mountain, 


mashum. 


Friend, 


sextua. 


Chief, 


meohot. 


Nez Perce 


numepo. 


Flathead, 


sailep. 


Blackfoot, 


quasne. 


Bonnax, 


tuelca. 


American, 


sueapo. 


Indian, 


tete teluit. 


Frenchman 


alllma. 


Head, 


hooshus. 


Hair, 


hookoo. 


Arm, 


artum. 


Leg, 


waiu. 


Foot, 


akooa. 


Cloth, 


tahea. 


Saddle, 


supen sapoos 


Pack, 


supen saps. 


Beads, 


collowin. 


Good, 


tois. 


Bad, 


kapseis. 


No, 


waiitu. 


Yes, 


ai. 



NEZ PERCE — KLICATAT. 



411 



Great, 

Small, 

Sick, 

Well, 

To-day, 

Yesterday, 

Once more, 

White, 

Black, 

Red, 

Vermilion, 

Paint, 

1 nox. 

2 lapeet. 

3 metait. 

4 peelep. 

5 pahut. 

6 elaix. 

7 quoenapt. 

8 wemuttut. 

9 quoies, 



hemakis. 


coots. 


comitsa. 


penamina. 


tax. 


watish. 


nox emaka. 


hihi. 


cinmo cimmeo, 


ilpelp. 


ailish. 


penasuet. 


10 poetumpt. 


1 1 nox tit. 


12 lapeet tit. 


20 laap tit. 


30 metaip tit. 


40 pelap tit. 


50 pahap tit. 


100 pooetap tit. 



VOCABULARY OF THE KLICATAT NATION WHO INHABIT 
THE COUNTRY NORTH OF THE CASCADES. 



nglish. 


Indian. 


God, 


Meyoh. 


Evil spirit, 


melah. 


Sun, 


an. 


Moon, 


ulhigh'. 


Stars, 


kashlo. 


Fire, 


lokkowouks, 



412 



> 


KLICATAT. 


Earth, 


te 'tsum. 


Water, 


chow wass. 
'p's swah. 


Stone, 


Wood, 
House, 


il quas. 
enneet. 


Bread, 
Fish, 


shappleel. 
t'kuinnat. 


Deer, 


owinnat. 


Bird, 


'hat 'hot. ' 


Cow, 


moos moos stun* 


Horse, 


kosee. 


Dog, 

Boat, 
Man, 


kosikkosee. 

quassas. 

wince. 


Woman, 
Girl, 


iyet. 
p'teeniks. 


Boy, 

Fingers, 
Foot, 


asswan. 

pahhahtopat. 

wattekas. 


Toe, 
Tongue, 
Ear, 
Mouth, 


owhunghe. 

melleese. [shu. 
misshu (plu.) pesahmis- 
mettolla'hhow. 


Lip, 
Black, 


um, (plu.) pesah urn. 
chemook. 


White, 
Green, 


pillas. 
lahm't. 


Yellow, 
Red, 


penahkunnootowass. 
klutsah. 


Good, 
Bad, 


seyah. 
chilooeet. 


High, 
Low, 


'quaahme. 
metee. 


Many, 


hugh'lak. 





KLICATAT. 


Few, 


millah. 


Little, 


iksiks. 


.Who? 


sindewah. 


What? 


sinmisswah. 


Knife, 


hahbittelme. 


Bow, 

Arrow, 


toominpas. 
kiasso. 


Gun, 
Sea, 


toowinpas. 
attackas. 


River, 


wannah. 


Lake, 


wattum. 


Mountain, 


<ke<h. 


Hill, 

Valley, 

Plain, 


pussque. 

«tkop. 

tak. 


Here, 


itche. 


There, 


ekkone. 


Near, 
Far off, 

Night, 


'tsahpah. 

weat'tpah. 

«tset. 


Day, 
Where, 


echoosah. 
minnan. 


When, 


mittach. 


I walk, 


inikwenahsah.- 


I talk, 


sinewesah. 


None, 


chahow. 


I know, 


assook sah. 


I have known, 


mewe sah sooh sah, 


I see, 


enahukheno sah. 


I hear, 


innasick sah. 


I taste, 
I smell, 


quatas sah. 
annookse sah. 


L 


sah. 


Thou, 


imk*. 



413 



414 





KLICATAT. 


He, 


equak. 


She, 


equakiik. 


Head, 


chlamtukh. 


Eye, 


tats'k. 


Back, 


koopkoop. 


Come, 


winnum. 


Go, 


winnak. 


Give, 


annik. 


Large, 


'nche. 


Smaller, 


mimche. 


Smallest, 


ooksooks. 


Beauty, 


seeghewah. 


All, 


k'lhweek. 


True, 


chawnumsisk 


False, 


t'sis. 


Chief, 


kooHtup. 


Common men, 


wallumteen. 


My father, 


hahtootas. 


My mother, 


naheclas. 


Elder brother, 


nahnahnas. 


Younger brother, 


incoks. 


Sister, 


inchats. 


Husband, 


inman. 


Yes, 


deh. 


No, 


waht. 


Beaver, 


wispus. 


Rabbit, 


sinwe. 


Cat, 


wasswass. 


Wolf, 


enahte. 


Bear, 


'hollees. 


Otter, 


nooksi. 


Laziness, 


ilkkah. 


Sleep, 


'tsotah. 


$oft, 


uquatuquat. 



KLICTAT CALAPOOA. 



415 



Strength, 


h'too. 


Swan, 


wahhalow. 


Goat, 


powyanin. 


Beads, 


k'pput. 


Cold, 


'tsoisah. 


Hard, 


k'ttet'k. 


1 lah's, 


12 nlep'twappena, 


2 neep't, 


13 mettaptwappena. 


3 mettapt', 


20 neeptit, 


4 peneep't, 


30 mettaptit, 


5 pahhat, 


40 peneeptit, 


6 p'tuhninis, 


50 pahhaptit, 


7 tooskas, 


60 p'tuhninsaptit, 


8 pahhahhemaht, 


70 tooskahsaptit, 


9 'tsawlawsimkah, 


80 pahhahtusap'tit, 


10 hotem, 


90 'tsaulochsaptit, 


11 lah's wappena, 


100 potemtit. 



VOCABULARY OF THE CALAPOOA NATION. 



God, 
Heaven, 

Evil Spirit, 
Hell, 


'ntsompate. 
ahlupklooah, 
ehwakehe. 
owievenah. 


Sun, 

Moon, 

Stars, 


'npeun. 
'ntope. 
'ntsalowah. 


Fire, 


ummi. 


Earth, 
Wind, 


umpullo. 
'ntolouh. 


Water, 
Wood, 


'mpahke. 
owattuk. 



416 





CALAPQOA. 


Stone, 


'ntaugh. 


Bone, 


'ntsa. 


House, 


ummi*. 


Bread, 


shappleel. 


Fish, 


'ntumuak. 


Deer, 


ammoke'. 


Elk, 


'ntokah. 


Bird, 


noknok. 


Horse, 


kuetan. 


Cow, 


moosmoos. 


Dog, 


'n'tuL 


Boat, 


'mpaw. 


Man, 


'noihee. 


Woman, 


ehwahktsuL 


Boy, 


ehwahpyah* 


Girl, 


'mpeena. 


I, 


tsa. 


Thou, 


mah. 


He, 


annoihe. 


She, 


ahwahkkotsuL 


My father, 


hum nee. 


Your father, 


makkan nee. 


My mother, 


sin nee. 


Elder brother, 


tah. 


Sister, 


shetup. 


Husband, 


tahwahke. 


• Wife, 


tahwahke. 


Yes, 


aw. 


No, 


kussowe. 


Head, 


unquah. 


Mouth, 


tinte. 


Chin, 


'tlak. 


Teeth, 


tinte. 


Arm, 


t'ntooque. 





CALAP OOA. 


Hand, 


t'lakquah. 


Finger, 


taw'nah. 


Foot, 


teuofoh. 


Ear, 


toandunkahtah. 


Black, 


mo*. 


White, 


mow*. 


Blue, 


'mpulunk. 


Green, 


pitchish. 


Red, 


'tselow. 


Good, 


missa 


Bad. 


kaskah. 


High, 


tshamayunk. 


Low, 


wallah. 


Many, 


milloe. 


Few, 


'mponuk. 


Large, 


pellah. 


Small, 


etoo. 


Who, 


me'eh. 


What, 


annikkee. 


Knife, 


'nkamistik. 


Bow, 


unchin. 


Arrow, 


un'owsuk. 


Gun, 


sukwallahlah. 


Sea, 


mullak. 


River, 


*ntsoL 


Lake, 


wassetnummeke. 


Mountain, 


peotahmefook. 


Valley, 


wallah. 


Night, 


mooyoo. 


Day, 


'mpeyon. 


Here, 


m'hash. 


There, 


piefan. 


Near, 


'mchillah. 


Far off, 


m'lokkio. 



417 



18* 



18 


CALAPOOA. 


Where, 


mutchoo. 


When, 


tahnondeh. 


To talk, 


tanuk. 


To walk, 


owallowah. 


None, 


*nwa. 


I see, 


chats'onhot'n. 


Beaver, 
All, 


'nkipeah. 
teloh. 


Chief, 


'ntsombeek. 


Common men, 


anwoekee. 


Come, 


mahek. 


Go, 


tattea. 


Give, 
Swan, 


mahaque, 
mow. 


Rabbit, 
Wolf, 


umpon. 
molent. 


Bear, 


*mmo. 


Sleep, 
Hard, 


towi. 
'p'tsakkolloo. 


Soft, . 
Boil, 
1 towneh, 


'mput'l. 
liplip. 
10 teeneefeahah, 


2 kamah, 

3 peshin, 

4 tohwah, 


11 teenefeahpetownah, 

12 teenefeahpekamah, 
20 keefotenefeah, 


5 wul, 


30 p'shintenefeah, 


6 taffo, 


40 tohwatenefeah, 


7 p'sinmewe, 


50 wultenefeah, 


8 ke'mewe, 


100 tenefeah, 


9 'quisteh, 


1000 tumpeah, 



€HENOOK. 



419 



VOCABULARY OF THE CHBNOOK LANGUAGE AS SPOKEN 
ABOUT FORT VANCOUVER. 



God, 


Cannum. 


Heaven, 


coosah. 


Earth, 


illaha. 


Fire, 


olaptska. 


Water, 


isuck. 


Sea, 


wecoma. 


River, 


ibolt 


Sun, 


otlah. 


Moon, 


ootleum. 


Evil spirit, 


skokoom. 


Hell, 


skokoom. 


Boat, 


conim. 


Knife, 


opitsah. 


Gun, 


sucwallai. 


Powder, 


poolalla. 


Ball, 


colietan. 


Air, 


kummataz. 


I, 


nika. 


Thou, 


mika. 


He, 


yahkah. 


She, 


yahkah. 


It or them, 


klaska. 


Chief, 


tie. 


Boy, 


kaskas. 


Girl, 


1'kpho. 


Sister, 


ahts. 


Father, 


tilecummama. 


Mother, 


st'llmama. 


People, 


tilecum. 


Yes, 


ah, or aha. 



420 





CHENOOK. 


No, 


wayick, or wake. 


Good, 


close. 


Bad, 


wake close. 


Very bad, 


mestsa. 


Large, 


hias. 


Small, 


tunas. 


Far, 


sia. 


Little way, 


tunas sia. 


Great way, 


Mas sia. 


To go fast, 


clatua hiuc, 


Not fast, 


wake hiuc. 


Black, 


klaait. 


White, 


t'koop. 


Blue, 


spoek, 


Red, 


pelpil. 


Green, 


peteish, 


High, 


saghalle. 


Low, 


kekulle. 


Now, 


witka. 


Much, 


oghooway. 


Little, 


tunas. 


Who, 


nkaksta. 


What, 


ikta. 


Mountain, 


saghalle illaha. 


Valley, 


kekulle illaha* 


Where, 


cah. 


Here, 


ookook 


Night, 


pollakle. 


None, 


haloo. 


Bear, 


siano. 


Beaver, 


eena. 


Fox, 


tiskowkow. 


Wolf, 


leelo. 


Deer, 


moueech. 



CHENOOK. 


Horse, 




kuetan. 


Cow, 




moosmoos. 


Dog, 




kamux. 


Salmon, 




quanagh. 


Bird, 




kallakalla. 


Speak, 




wawa. 


I speak, 




nica wawa. 


Thou speakest, 




mica wawa. 


He speaks, 




yakka wawa. 


They speak, 




klaska wawa. 


Make, 




mammook. 


I make, 




nica mammook. 


Thou makest, 




mica mammook. 


He makes, 




yakka mammook. 


They make, 




klaska mammook. 


Come, 




chawko. 


Perhaps, or I do not know, clunas. 


Understand, 




cumetax. 


I understand, 




nica cumetax. 


Now I understand, 




alta nica cumetax. 


Sleep, 




moosom. 


I have, or it is with 


me, 


mitlit nica. 


I walk, 




nica clatuwa. 


Long ago, 




aunacotta. 


See, 




noneneech. 


Eat, 




mucamuc. 


1 eght, 


8 


stoghtkin, 


2 moxt, 


9 


quiitz, 


3 none, 


10 


taughlelum, 


4 'lakit, 


30 


moxttaghlelum, 


5 quinum, 


40 


'lakittaghlelum, 


6 tohhum, 


100 


taughlelum taughle 


7 sinnamox, 







421 



422 REMARKS. 

The Philologist, by examining the specimens of the 
languages, in the foregoing vocabularies, will notice 
how entirely distinct they are from each other, and he 
may form his own opinion in regard to their origin. 
The languages of other Indian nations are equally dis- 
tinct. The use of the commas, as in '&e'A, mountain ; 
l noihee, man ; is designed to designate a gutteral sound 
wholly inarticulate. 



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